axakal

Well-Known Member
i also use the box it came in. but maybe a case for the orbiter is a product idea for @Ratchett. a light weight container that works like the vapman egg. i don't think that padding is really neccessary as long as the orbiter stays fixed in its place inside the container.

Does anyone know of a case that would fit the Orbiter?
 
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bounce5

Well-Known Member
What is the recommended smallest amount of herb that one can use in the MFLB? I use a Vapman and am accustomed to using .05 and .025 grams. It is extremely efficient, can the MFLB be as efficient? I'm looking for a battery portable with comparable efficiency.
 
bounce5,

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
What is the recommended smallest amount of herb that one can use in the MFLB? I use a Vapman and am accustomed to using .05 and .025 grams. It is extremely efficient, can the MFLB be as efficient? I'm looking for a battery portable with comparable efficiency.

They complement each other quite well I think, still Two of my favorite vapes. The box is as efficient with tiny loads... you can vape just a couple of little flecks of herb with the box, less then I'd ever use in the vapman actually. I'd say the magic flight Launch box is as frugal with herb as the VM(if not more-so), for sure.
 
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ntaylor

Un-Known Member
... when there is no mechanical stirring to redistribute the heat. Agreed.

While it is true that, in general, convection vaporizers will be more efficient overall than conduction patterns, the performance gap can be narrowed significantly with various techniques and in some cases even dramatically exceeded! The Box performance is much better than any other vaporizer in its class due to the following four factors:

- 1) The Box generates vapor only when needed -- it does not waste any vapor by staying hot between hits or by continuing to cook the load after you have had enough. Loaded material can continue to be cycled over any extended period of time, delivering vapor when you want it without ever having to wait or waste. Conscious user technique with the battery can ensure that there is zero lost vapor every time.

- 2) The Box makes careful use of Infra-red characteristics in its design. While pure conduction designs tend do work very poorly, pure IR vaporizers (although very uncommon and very expensive) tend to be fairly good since they have overall heat distribution characteristics very similar to pure convection designs for smaller loads. The Launch Box is not 'just' a conduction vaporizer -- it is also has significant IR characteristics.

- 3) The Box incorporates several vapor channel flow features to ensure the absolute minimum vapor condensation. Convection vaporizers necessarily need to use significantly more heat energy to operate efficiently -- heat which must be removed from the vapor prior to ingestion. Any surfaces, piping, or water chambers used to cool the vapor are also condensation sites. Condensed vapor is lost vapor and that means that a big pipe overall is less efficient. Any parts that require occasional cleaning also indicate a significant volume of previously lost vapor. Used naively, the Box rarely requires any cleaning since it delivers the vapor directly to you -- without converting some of it into black gunk along the way.

- 4) Since the Box uses only and exactly as much heat energy as is needed for vaporization (the Box is easily one of the worlds most energy-efficient vaporizers), the enclosed chamber can be designed to allow for the simplest and most reliable form of mechanical stirring possible: shaking. By shaking the Box between hits, the previously ground load can be evenly re-mixed to ensure much more even heating. The clear lid also allows for immediate inspection as to determine both the effectiveness of the stirring and the degree of completion. In this way, good user technique can result excellent overall performance and efficiency.

In summary, in-house lab testing has shown the Box vape to be nearly as efficient as the best convection vapes (when used correctly), and noticeably better than most.

Finally, it is important to keep in mind that the Box is optimized for convenience -- it was never intended to be "the worlds most efficient vape". Dollar for dollar, the Box delivers more vapor in more locations more naturally. That is what it is about. What good is a 'super efficient vaporizer' when you don't use it because you don't have some place to plug it in and cannot wait five minutes for it to heat up? Getting fairly good efficiency most of the time is very much better overall (health wise and cost wise) than getting great efficiency only occasionally. For most people, actual practical convenience is much more important in real life than some elusive abstract ideal of "efficiency".

-- Magic-flight

This ancient post by the folks at Magic-Flight is of value to old-timers as well as newcomers, and needed to be resurrected ....

Please Click to Expand.

A lot of questions are answered here.
 

Caulin

Well-Known Member
Has anyone had any experience with a DIY power adapter? I found someone on reddit that made one, seems easy enough. Here is the LINK. The electronics cost ~$25. I can get a dc power supply on eBay for ~$3. The most expensive part would be the resin that I want to use to encase the electronics instead of a wood box. Im thinking it would look pretty cool with LED's inside but would cost somewhere around $20. If I just buy a PA 2.0 on eBay its $60. So I'm only saving around $10. Not much savings at all if I decide to use resin.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Has anyone had any experience with a DIY power adapter? I found someone on reddit that made one, seems easy enough. Here is the LINK. The electronics cost ~$25. I can get a dc power supply on eBay for ~$3. The most expensive part would be the resin that I want to use to encase the electronics instead of a wood box. Im thinking it would look pretty cool with LED's inside but would cost somewhere around $20. If I just buy a PA 2.0 on eBay its $60. So I'm only saving around $10. Not much savings at all if I decide to use resin.

I tinkered a bit with it, but found the factory units worked better, at least were easier to use. I used a different converter (in fact two ten Amp ones in parallel). You need very heavy cable unless you remote sense or current limit instead (which I didn't have much luck with for some reason).

You might consider building it very close the the MFLB (even inside the head) for that reason.

As far as lights go (a big topic on that inferior forum) I suggest you do what MF did when faced with the same problem, use a small light bulb, not an LED:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...t-1-3mm-lamp-w/10-insulated-wire-leads/1.html
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/lp-41/1.5v-grain-of-wheat-lamp-w/long-leads/1.html

Anyway, it should work I'd think. However, I don't think your cost estimate is going to pan out. Best price I could find in a quick search of the usual sources (for me) was Digikey at $21.50 plus tax and shipping. Mouser was like $27. I'd also suggest you hold off potting it until you're confident, it's an open invitation to Murphy otherwise.

Good luck with it.

OF
 

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
I would use the PA more often if it had a dial and not the thumb-wheel thing it has now, finding my sweet spot and then keeping the wheel there can be a bit of a pain with mine and how I use it. A dial would make it darn near perfect for me though.
 

ntaylor

Un-Known Member
I would use the PA more often if it had a dial and not the thumb-wheel thing it has now, finding my sweet spot and then keeping the wheel there can be a bit of a pain with mine and how I use it. A dial would make it darn near perfect for me though.
I absolutely agree with you @RUDE BOY ... it took me only a few days of experimenting before I decided that I would rather use my batteries than the PA because of the difficulty in getting the correct temperature. I seemed to be continually "chasing" the right setting. A little bump up from too cool and now I've got charring; a tiny bump back down and not nearly enough heat. The next small bump and there might be no noticeable temp change.

I finally gave up on fiddling with my PA 2.0 and its thumb-wheel and now it's sitting on the shelf in its box. My six glyph batteries, backed by two top end chargers, give me hassle free vaping of as many trenches per day as I desire.
 

Caulin

Well-Known Member
@ntaylor . Yes that is an option for me. I have considered just having a lot of batteries and getting a better charger but I'm worried about constantly having to buy new batteries. especially if they aren't used for a while. I already murdered my one NiMH battery because I did not know that they could not be fully discharged. @OF, I believe the converter I am using has the ability to sense, and using a "chassis" wiring table a wire gauge of around 13 or 14 looks like a factor of safety of 2. I will look into the regular lights thank you for the suggestion. As always I appreciate all the help this forums continues to provide. Ill keep everyone posted with the results if I decide to move forward.
 

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
@ntaylor . Yes that is an option for me. I have considered just having a lot of batteries and getting a better charger but I'm worried about constantly having to buy new batteries.

From what I've experienced....The Imedion 2400's tend to last longer and hold their charge longer. The downside is that their punching power is a little less than the Glyph's.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
From what I've experienced....The Imedion 2400's tend to last longer and hold their charge longer. The downside is that their punching power is a little less than the Glyph's.

I agree, they are definitely not LSD. They go flat faster than that. I'd say in 2 or 3 days and they've lost their edge?

OTOH, that first day or two they sure do shine!

OF
 

ntaylor

Un-Known Member
Help Wanted

Is the battery very tight in your MFLB? Do you have to twist and use any force to put the battery in or to take it back out?

The battery ring on one of my MFLBs is so tight that I am unable to get glyph batteries in or out without twisting (it takes some force CCW and almost impossible to twist CW) and pulling or pushing with a fair amount of force at the same time. With Powerex 2700s it's a little easier because they have a slightly smaller diameter. The 2700s are also more likely to be out of round and take some wiggling to get good contact in a Box with a loose ring.

Once it is in place, then it only takes about the normal amount of pressure to make or break contact, so it is okay until that trench is finished .... except that it's my habit to pull the battery after every draw and use it to tap the bottom of the MFLB to break loose anything clinging to the screen ... and it's hard to break that habit for this one Box.

I'm a little afraid to try bending. Years ago on this thread Magic-Flight cautioned that attempting to bend that wire has the potential of loosening or breaking the contact with the screen.

If your battery ring is tight, has it loosened with use? Or have you found a way to somehow bend or reshape the wire loop? All ideas and suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this is my next to favorite Launch-Box.
Thanks,
-Nick
 
ntaylor,

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
@ntaylor - Yep, mine has been tight, as you describe, since I've had it.... and.... it still is tight and I've had it a year now. I don't have to twist anymore but yeah....gotta use some force to get it in there. The nice thing, as you mentioned, is that even with the tightness it doesn't stay connected if I stop pressing it.
 

ntaylor

Un-Known Member
@ntaylor - Yep, mine has been tight, as you describe, since I've had it.... and.... it still is tight and I've had it a year now. I don't have to twist anymore but yeah....gotta use some force to get it in there. The nice thing, as you mentioned, is that even with the tightness it doesn't stay connected if I stop pressing it.
@His_Highness ... It's good that your wire loop has loosened up enough that you no longer have to twist the battery. With luck mine will do the same, but it feels like it's getting worse over time.

Mine is starting to leave grooves in the 2700s and I don't use the slightly larger glyphs. I hope that no problems develop.

Does anybody have experience (or even just ideas) loosening the negative battery connection? Please help!
 
ntaylor,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Does anybody have experience (or even just ideas) loosening the negative battery connection? Please help!

Yes, we have been through this a LOT. Do a search on 'loosen' in this forum. 66 'hits' mostly saying 'don't worry it'll loosen up'. With lots of new owners saying 'mine is special, tighter than the others' (which doesn't seem to 'pan out'). The advice you've been getting is traditional and generally useful I think. Searching 'too tight' will probably give another batch of history. You'll also probably find more guys upset because theirs is too loose FWIW.

If you don't want to accept that I see two options open to you. You can return it under warranty, some guys have, MF service is very fast.

Secondly you can try sanding the wood hole the battery goes into, it's usually not the metal ring that's the issue (they tend to be very precise), you'll notice a lot if it is below flush (masked by wood)?

My advice is to follow the advice you're getting, many many guys before you have had theirs 'wear in' just fine. Otherwise I'd think sending it back or finding some 220 grit paper.....

Good luck with it.

OF
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Man trying to visualize the vapor path is making me dizzy.......

OF
It's called a peyote pillar (the perc). It goes in, then there's a dry section where you see the tubes/pillars inside, and a hole in the base where the vapor goes through and down into the wet part, through the actual wet perc piece at the bottom, then travels up through/inside the pillars, to the top and to the mouthpiece. One of the more intricate percolation systems.

 

ntaylor

Un-Known Member
Yes, we have been through this a LOT. Do a search on 'loosen' in this forum. 66 'hits' mostly saying 'don't worry it'll loosen up'. With lots of new owners saying 'mine is special, tighter than the others' (which doesn't seem to 'pan out'). The advice you've been getting is traditional and generally useful I think. Searching 'too tight' will probably give another batch of history. You'll also probably find more guys upset because theirs is too loose FWIW.

If you don't want to accept that I see two options open to you. You can return it under warranty, some guys have, MF service is very fast.

Secondly you can try sanding the wood hole the battery goes into, it's usually not the metal ring that's the issue (they tend to be very precise), you'll notice a lot if it is below flush (masked by wood)?

My advice is to follow the advice you're getting, many many guys before you have had theirs 'wear in' just fine. Otherwise I'd think sending it back or finding some 220 grit paper.....

Good luck with it.

OF
I had already done a search on "loosen" and got the same 66 (now 67) hits .... and found none that had any useful information other than, "it will loosen" or "it won't loosen" and a search on "too tight" (which i hadn't tried) yielded 200 hits and even less info about battery tightness.

It is NOT the hole in the wood. The battery is VERY loose until it reaches the metal ring about 8mm into the hole; at that point it takes several pounds of twisting pressure to insert or remove the smaller diameter batteries. The wire loop is so tight that it is scrapping away the metal and forming grooves on my 2700 batteries.

I was (and still am) hoping that somebody would provide information on how to bend the wire without damaging the connection to the screen ... rather than implying that I am stupid for asking the question.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
rather than implying that I am stupid for asking the question.

Not implying anything past you don't seem to have understood the advice many members gave you is traditional/historic. Asking it over and over doesn't change that.

They do loosen over time, at least for most owners.

I've suggested two other alternatives, but bending the ring out (to loosen) is not possible in place, and bending in (to tighten) is possible but not easy. Many of us have had misalignment between the ring and wood. I've had it twice. Since the ring most likely doesn't change size (it's a strong spring, very minorly stressed, well short of it's elastic limit) I assume the break in is in the wood. No guarantee, just experience based advice.

Your call.

OF
 

slatihe

Well-Known Member
Just got to use one of these.... (a buddy made me use their new toy)

Was using it off the power adapter (MAX PWR!!!!), but you know honestly... Not bad!

Was actually surprisingly smooth and pretty tasty. Not really sure why people ragged on it so much. I would not pay 100 bones.... But it was actually rather nice to use. And was much harder to combust and way more refined then I would have thought.

Just saying.... :)
 

sativasam

NO SMOKING
Im sure there are a lot of posts like this but I thought I should add my thoughts on the MFLB. The MFLB was the first Vape I bought 3 years ago. I also bought a Volcano around the same time and I have recently purchased a Mighty in the last month. These are the only vapes I have ever tried.

The MFLB has 0% draw resistance. Which is something I appreciate when comparing with my Mighty. Ive heard people say the Mighty has very little draw resistance. Which Im sure is true comparing the other portable vapes on the market. But compared to the MFLB and the Volcano, personally at times my lungs have to work hard to finish a bowl in the Mighty.

The MFLB is a durable little thing. I like the fact there are no microchips or solder inside. And although the lid is made of acrylic, it's not what you would consider a 'plastic' unit.

It's very small and the heat up time is instant. Yes it doesn't have a temperature gauge so its likely you are vaping above 190c at times, but I feel this vape is a very good starter vape. You can really taste your 'herb'. I like using it in native mode, and I feel it gives a similar experience to smoking in terms of hand to mouth action. Due to the short cooling path, the vapour can be hot, so you feel it on your throat. This is something I try to avoid now, but when I first swapped smoking for vaping I found this comforting.

It also requires next to no maintenance apart from keeping the screen clean with a brush which is more than can be said for other portables.

Batteries are a good topic with the MFLB. I lost my original batteries that came with the unit. So I bought a 4 pack of 2000 mah AA rechargeable batteries with a charging dock from a well known UK store. I just rip the plastic cover off the batteries so they can be inserted into the MFLB. My charging dock charges all 4 batteries in 1 hour! So no problems there!

And finally, the LIFE TIME WARRANTY!!! MFLB offers a lifetime warranty and they don't care what you have done to your unit; as long as you have not lost it, they will replace it. My O-ring fell out and I then spent hours trying to get it back in; in the process the screen loosened. I then tried to tighten the screen and ripped it by accident. I messaged them through their website and the response was quick. They sent me a brand new MFLB all the way from the US to the UK free of charge. From my initial email it took 11 days to get the new unit to the front door. I didn't even have to return the old unit; instead they asked me to dismantle my broken unit and send them photographs.

The MFLB is cheap, efficient and reliable. Once you buy one, unless you lose it, you have one for life; so it's a good investment. And although there are loads of portable vapes that people will say are better for various reasons, there is something about the MFLB's simple design, and use of materials that I personally think is timeless. I feel that these other plastic vapes (many of which have very similar design principles and materials) will come and go, but the MFLB is unique and essentially plays in its own league.
 
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