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Discontinued The Grasshopper

AgentXero

Well-Known Member
Man the reports on battery life, sometimes the battery life sounds pretty solid and other times it sounds disappointing. Oh well.
 
AgentXero,
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peaceonearth

high since 1968
The diff between the Nov 1 and this update is that this sentence from the Nov 1 update:
"If everything moves smoothly we should get the large majority of the units out this month."
Has been replaced with:
"The process of producing Grasshoppers is complicated and it has been very difficult for us to accurately estimate shipping dates. We were overly optimistic in the past, and though our unconventional approach to engineering and business has cost more in time, it’s yielded a fantastic product. Having corrected the issues and applied our new processes to production, we are finally starting large scale delivery."

@skrap it is not a true bypass, you need at least some charge in the battery.
 
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inuhuion

Well-Known Member
Got mine yesterday and ran it pretty good today.
It hits hard, but hot even at setting 2. I find the silicone mouthpiece a must.
The battery life is pretty disappointing, but swap-able so tolerable. I'm getting 2 chambers max at temp 2.
Definitely going to need an external charger and several more batteries.
I got the ring of death when using an extra attachment (arizer glass piece attached with silicon tubing), and the bypass didn't seem to keep up with me; it is a true by-bass? The top also runs surprisingly hot also.
Maybe it was the change in devices but today it got me more ripped than the mighty with less material.
I get the feeling this one will go back on warranty pretty quick, but hope they can dial in the problems because it could be a game changer, there's a lot to like.
i think at such lower settings, you're having to hit it more often to finish the chamber, thus using more battery. I'd be willing to bet you'd get better battery life if you upped the temp to 3.5 to 4, if you can stand it.
 

PAZ

Well-Known Member
i think at such lower settings, you're having to hit it more often to finish the chamber, thus using more battery. I'd be willing to bet you'd get better battery life if you upped the temp to 3.5 to 4, if you can stand it.

I don't think that's necessarily true. I'm no electrical engineer, but if I was to make an educated guess a lower temperature should make the battery life longer.

For example, when driving, a moderate speed will use up less gas compared to speeding down the highway. I think it has to do with the conversion of energy, when you try to convert more electrical energy into heat at a faster rate, you'll end up with a less efficient method.

I could be wrong because I haven't looked any of this up, so feel free to correct me if i'm wrong :lol:
 

bluenavey00

Arizer Air Aficionado
I don't think that's necessarily true. I'm no electrical engineer, but if I was to make an educated guess a lower temperature should make the battery life longer.

For example, when driving, a moderate speed will use up less gas compared to speeding down the highway. I think it has to do with the conversion of energy, when you try to convert more electrical energy into heat at a faster rate, you'll end up with a less efficient method.

I could be wrong because I haven't looked any of this up, so feel free to correct me if i'm wrong :lol:

What your saying is correct, less temperature = less power consumed.

However I think what @inuhuion was saying that that using the device on a lower power level means it takes more hits to clear the load. The more puffs you take also the more battery you use.
 

Old School

Vape13man
Got mine yesterday and ran it pretty good today.
It hits hard, but hot even at setting 2. I find the silicone mouthpiece a must.
The battery life is pretty disappointing, but swap-able so tolerable. I'm getting 2 chambers max at temp 2.
Definitely going to need an external charger and several more batteries.
I got the ring of death when using an extra attachment (arizer glass piece attached with silicon tubing), and the bypass didn't seem to keep up with me; it is a true by-bass? The top also runs surprisingly hot also.
Maybe it was the change in devices but today it got me more ripped than the mighty with less material.
I get the feeling this one will go back on warranty pretty quick, but hope they can dial in the problems because it could be a game changer, there's a lot to like.
So when you said the "top also runs surprisingly hot" can I assume your referring to the on/off switch area..whats been referred to as the back end....
I think it safe to say if you just received yours it should be from the recent "parts adjustment" batch and we are hearing about the hot back end... taking down battery performance....

Not what I was hoping to hear.....:popcorn:
 
Old School,

TheWhisper

Well-Known Member
While I'm awaiting my external battery charger, I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a USB-to-outlet adapter that would provide adequate input to charge the Hopper at normal speed?

While the external charger will be fine for home usage, I wouldn't want to carry it around with me to other peoples' houses or on trips. But an adapter would be fine for those use cases, especially if it were slim.
 
TheWhisper,

Czechyourhead

Well-Known Member
Barring any unforeseen complications, I am very happy with my grasshopper. Working as promised. I've been running it pretty hard though a water piece @3 1/2-4. Getting about 3-4 good hits. Maybe 5 to 7 loads per battery. I'm using an external charger. Haven't tried the one provided by hopper labs. Glad I bought extra batteries.

I'm able to pull hits comparable to my EVO. Not quite as tasty.

I know its partly to do with the vapor signature, but I do find it very effective. Yes I've used a bit less than I would with my EVO, but again, probably just the new vape honeymoon phase.
 

nonbeliever

Well-Known Member
While I'm awaiting my external battery charger, I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a USB-to-outlet adapter that would provide adequate input to charge the Hopper at normal speed?

While the external charger will be fine for home usage, I wouldn't want to carry it around with me to other peoples' houses or on trips. But an adapter would be fine for those use cases, especially if it were slim.

I just use the plug from my iPad or iphone
 
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nonbeliever,

TheWhisper

Well-Known Member
@delloy @Jack Sprat

What charging current do/would you use for the GH batteries — 0.25A, 0.50A, or 1.00A — with your XTAR chargers?

EDIT: Hm. So, the GH batteries say 3.7V on them, but when I put them in to the XTAR VP2, the readout says around 3.85V, and then goes upward from there when charging. That's larger than the voltage on the battery, and it goes up if I leave it charging! Again, I know very little about electricity and batteries, but is that supposed to happen?

I also have the option to manually select 3.2V, 3.6V, or 3.8V on the back of the charger. I think these are the termination voltages, but I'm not sure if I should choose 3.6V or 3.8V...

EDIT2: So, after a bit of researching, it seems that 3.7V is the "nominal voltage" (i.e. the normal operating voltage when in use), but the full charge of the battery (AKA charge voltage) is generally higher than that (in this case, around 4.2V). So, that's why it's showing over 3.7V on the display.

After reading the manual a bit more thoroughly, I've found that for 3.7V batteries, I'd want to use the 3.6V setting. Still not sure about current, but I'm thinking that 1.00A is fine and not too high a value.

Let me know if I'm incorrect, electricians of FC :D
 
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TheWhisper,
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Hawk

Well-Known Member
@delloy @Jack Sprat

What charging current do/would you use for the GH batteries — 0.25A, 0.50A, or 1.00A — with your XTAR chargers?

EDIT: Hm. So, the GH batteries say 3.7V on them, but when I put them in to the XTAR VP2, the readout says around 3.85V, and then goes upward from there when charging. That's larger than the voltage on the battery, and it goes up if I leave it charging! Again, I know very little about electricity and batteries, but is that supposed to happen?

I also have the option to manually select 3.2V, 3.6V, or 3.8V on the back of the charger. I think these are the termination voltages, but I'm not sure if I should choose 3.6V or 3.8V...

Fully charged that battery should be between 4.1-4.2v. If your charger is charging it over 4.2v then thats a problem.
 

fonzerelli

Well-Known Member
@delloy @Jack Sprat

What charging current do/would you use for the GH batteries — 0.25A, 0.50A, or 1.00A — with your XTAR chargers?

EDIT: Hm. So, the GH batteries say 3.7V on them, but when I put them in to the XTAR VP2, the readout says around 3.85V, and then goes upward from there when charging. That's larger than the voltage on the battery, and it goes up if I leave it charging! Again, I know very little about electricity and batteries, but is that supposed to happen?

I also have the option to manually select 3.2V, 3.6V, or 3.8V on the back of the charger. I think these are the termination voltages, but I'm not sure if I should choose 3.6V or 3.8V...

EDIT2: So, after a bit of researching, it seems that 3.7V is the "nominal voltage" (i.e. the normal operating voltage when in use), but the full charge of the battery (AKA charge voltage) is generally higher than that (in this case, around 4.2V). So, that's why it's showing over 3.7V on the display.

After reading the manual a bit more thoroughly, I've found that for 3.7V batteries, I'd want to use the 3.6V setting. Still not sure about current, but I'm thinking that 1.00A is fine and not too high a value.

Let me know if I'm incorrect, electricians of FC :D

Perhaps you are over thinking this charging thing. I'd leave it on auto. Setting a termination voltage at 3.6, I believe, will leave you a battery that's pretty under charged.
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
Some folks I had read were getting almost 50 min with their battery until it needed charging. I realize it would depend on the draw style.
 

Jack Sprat

Well-Known Member
@delloy @Jack Sprat

What charging current do/would you use for the GH batteries — 0.25A, 0.50A, or 1.00A — with your XTAR chargers?

EDIT: Hm. So, the GH batteries say 3.7V on them, but when I put them in to the XTAR VP2, the readout says around 3.85V, and then goes upward from there when charging. That's larger than the voltage on the battery, and it goes up if I leave it charging! Again, I know very little about electricity and batteries, but is that supposed to happen?

I also have the option to manually select 3.2V, 3.6V, or 3.8V on the back of the charger. I think these are the termination voltages, but I'm not sure if I should choose 3.6V or 3.8V...

EDIT2: So, after a bit of researching, it seems that 3.7V is the "nominal voltage" (i.e. the normal operating voltage when in use), but the full charge of the battery (AKA charge voltage) is generally higher than that (in this case, around 4.2V). So, that's why it's showing over 3.7V on the display.

After reading the manual a bit more thoroughly, I've found that for 3.7V batteries, I'd want to use the 3.6V setting. Still not sure about current, but I'm thinking that 1.00A is fine and not too high a value.

Let me know if I'm incorrect, electricians of FC :D
I'd use. 25 or. 5. 1A is too high a charge rate for such a small capacity battery. All the rest of your info is spot on.
 

TheWhisper

Well-Known Member
Perhaps you are over thinking this charging thing. I'd leave it on auto. Setting a termination voltage at 3.6, I believe, will leave you a battery that's pretty under charged.

Unfortunately, there is no auto. But that termination voltage seems to be for the nominal voltage. I just left the batteries in for a while, and it charged them to ~4.20V then shut off.

I'd use. 25 or. 5. 1A is too high a charge rate for such a small capacity battery. All the rest of your info is spot on.

Good point.
 
TheWhisper,

GHWhatWhat

New Member
I'd use. 25 or. 5. 1A is too high a charge rate for such a small capacity battery. All the rest of your info is spot on.
High drain batteries, which this is, are often able to be charged at higher rates too. It's possible that 1A is still safe, but until we have expert analysis of these cells your advice is probably a good rule of thumb.
 
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