Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

farscaper said:

do long pieces of fc2000 wick well?

ive got this royal hunter mini and its only dual coil airflow. so I thought longer pieces to span the dripwell more might make it an oil cloud machine. ive only used short pieces of fc2000 like what comes with w9tech gear.

I cant tell if its better thermal mass it provides for oil or if its actually wicking well enough to work as an oil sponge... if that makes any sense.

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w/ errl... from my experience with fc-2000... i find that it wicks well if it has wire wrapped around the portion that will be wicking. if you are talking about having the fc-2000 sticking out the ends of a coil... then i dont see the ends wicking well. it needs to be heated to wick well. at least for oil.

my current build is still the Ti clapton around a 1/2"-5/8" length of fc-2000. the wire wrapped around the entire length of the wick. it works great, but as soon as i get new wire i will be replacing the fc-2000 with a micro coil with no spacing between wraps. essentially making a Ti tube. more wire surface area means more clouds faster. when oil gets into the fc-2000 it can stay there until you increase the temp to get the wick to vaping temps. if the wire is at vaping temps then the wick will not be.

2clicker said:

w/ errl... from my experience with fc-2000... i find that it wicks well if it has wire wrapped around the portion that will be wicking. if you are talking about having the fc-2000 sticking out the ends of a coil... then i dont see the ends wicking well. it needs to be heated to wick well. at least for oil.

my current build is still the Ti clapton around a 1/2"-5/8" length of fc-2000. the wire wrapped around the entire length of the wick. it works great, but as soon as i get new wire i will be replacing the fc-2000 with a micro coil with no spacing between wraps. essentially making a Ti tube. more wire surface area means more clouds faster. when oil gets into the fc-2000 it can stay there until you increase the temp to get the wick to vaping temps. if the wire is at vaping temps then the wick will not be.

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im still learning on this nickel wire so simple coils are all I can do... finicky resistance. but im loving tc! I dont notice any ill effects from the nickel but im low temping it at like 240f for flavor town! the nickel wire was free from a friend.

ive vaped g2 ti wire and its nice but ohms bounce everywhere some times... but not as wildly high low as the ceramic coils ive used.

still havnt ordered any ti wire but eventually I will. but using temp control may be a pain cause im always setting off the dry coil on ti and nickel wire. dude recommend twisting nickel and kanthal but I may try a nickel kanthal clapton and see how we do...

edit: so we did great... except I forgot im out of rosin. poop... but this coil holds about 3 drops of juice and vapes it off in temp control so I guess I got a good coil. 24g ka1 core with 28g ni200 clapton.


excuse my doge v2. its seen better days.

2clicker said:

w/ errl... from my experience with fc-2000... i find that it wicks well if it has wire wrapped around the portion that will be wicking. if you are talking about having the fc-2000 sticking out the ends of a coil... then i dont see the ends wicking well. it needs to be heated to wick well. at least for oil.

my current build is still the Ti clapton around a 1/2"-5/8" length of fc-2000. the wire wrapped around the entire length of the wick. it works great, but as soon as i get new wire i will be replacing the fc-2000 with a micro coil with no spacing between wraps. essentially making a Ti tube. more wire surface area means more clouds faster. when oil gets into the fc-2000 it can stay there until you increase the temp to get the wick to vaping temps. if the wire is at vaping temps then the wick will not be.

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Can you shoot me a pm or maybe go over in a little more detail the process for the micro coil within a spaced coil idea? This is about where my knowledge of electricity ends so please correct me but wouldn't that cause a short if they touch each other?

farscaper said:

im still learning on this nickel wire so simple coils are all I can do... finicky resistance. but im loving tc! I dont notice any ill effects from the nickel but im low temping it at like 240f for flavor town! the nickel wire was free from a friend.

ive vaped g2 ti wire and its nice but ohms bounce everywhere some times... but not as wildly high low as the ceramic coils ive used.

still havnt ordered any ti wire but eventually I will. but using temp control may be a pain cause im always setting off the dry coil on ti and nickel wire. dude recommend twisting nickel and kanthal but I may try a nickel kanthal clapton and see how we do...

edit: so we did great... except I forgot im out of rosin. poop... but this coil holds about 3 drops of juice and vapes it off in temp control so I guess I got a good coil. 24g ka1 core with 28g ni200 clapton.

excuse my doge v2. its seen better days.

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is that the D2? if you want to eliminate the dry coil warning you will have to get a device that does not give a dry coil warning. i love my evic VTC. and the updates are great. they just did another firmware update that brings the max wattage up from 60 to 75.

i have never mixed wire types together. as of now i really like the flavor that Ti provides. good shit.

gladthaturaglide said:

Can you shoot me a pm or maybe go over in a little more detail the process for the micro coil within a spaced coil idea? This is about where my knowledge of electricity ends so please correct me but wouldn't that cause a short if they touch each other?

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no it wont short because both coils equal one coil. in other words the leads are twisted together.

so build a micro coil. solid w/out any space between the wraps. then take your clapton wire and wrap this around the solid core the entire length of the micro coil. this time leaving a little space between each wrap. then simply twist the leads together. the only issue you may run into is that after twisting your new leads may have a larger OD than your RDAs posts will accept. in this case just get some pliers or something to smash the twisted leads flat.

2clicker said:

is that the D2? if you want to eliminate the dry coil warning you will have to get a device that does not give a dry coil warning. i love my evic VTC. and the updates are great. they just did another firmware update that brings the max wattage up from 60 to 75.

i have never mixed wire types together. as of now i really like the flavor that Ti provides. good shit.



no it wont short because both coils equal one coil. in other words the leads are twisted together.

so build a micro coil. solid w/out any space between the wraps. then take your clapton wire and wrap this around the solid core the entire length of the micro coil. this time leaving a little space between each wrap. then simply twist the leads together. the only issue you may run into is that after twisting your new leads may have a larger OD than your RDAs posts will accept. in this case just get some pliers or something to smash the twisted leads flat.

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sigelei 150tc and with the kanthal nickel clapton it didnt give the dry coil warning. nickel is just butter soft so its finicky.
and it was free so yea.

For all saftey reason i will explaing some things I am very experianced APV user and have to say .15 on mech is very dangerous and should not be tried you are stuck at a pulse rating so you should only hold that switch down for up to 2 seconds after that it is possible to cause a soft short on the battery and cause it to heat up. but from what i have seen so far in the post @TrueNorthStar has most of this stuff figured out. If you are looking more heat then series is going to be the way to go if you still want something mechanical. But i would suggest using a high wattage box like a sigelei or iPV. they all offer saftey so you wont end up blowing your face up.

Is there a stumpy equivalent with larger post holes? Looking to get a new atty in the next few... Need so,e ideals

WakeAndVape said:

Is there a stumpy equivalent with larger post holes? Looking to get a new atty in the next few... Need so,e ideals

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not that inam aware of, but you could always drill them out larger...?

WakeAndVape said:

Is there a stumpy equivalent with larger post holes? Looking to get a new atty in the next few... Need so,e ideals

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Hobo has the two post hole design that is similar but I think the posts come in two close together and I'm not sure the size of the post holes. Google "two post rda's" and see what happens.


I gave the wick less coil with in a coil thing a spin last night, after ruining all of 28g kanthal wire attempting to learn to make claptons. I eventually got it but now I'm out of wire to Clapton things with..lol. Ordered a 100 bucks of wire off Lightning vapes so this won't happen again for a long time. So once I figured out how to Clapton all I was left with was a bunch of .5mm flat kanthal wire I bought when I was first into vaping two years agai and didn't know what I was buying. Haha. I claptoned a 24g kanthal with the flat wire and wrapped it around another 24g micro coil. This thing works really well at about 30 watts or little more. you have to be careful not to burn the oil when you aren't in TC mode though. I still get a small amount of reclaim in the rda but I feel like it's less than with other builds. What helps to stop less reclaim. Will cutting down the air flow help in this department? I feel like the big airy draws are knocking some of the oil off the coil before it gets vaped.

I'm getting closer...

@2clicker: have you seen this build? It looks similar to the build you have described.


@LarryYo - agreed with respect to the importance of proper batteries, especially for those new to the RDA game. I have a fresh pair of VTC4's coming in as I type. Low resistance means high current, and should only be attempted with top class batteries (the aforementioned Sonys, LG HE4, Samsung 25R, etc). It's a nice reminder, so thanks.

@gladthaturaglide - to decrease reclaim, I have a theory. With small diameter coils, the fluid quickly reaches either side of the coil, where it is under the most influence of gravity and consequently most likely to drop. A larger diameter should provide a flatter surface, diminishing the effects of gravity (like rolling a ball down a ramp vs dropping it straight down).

To wit, the first coil that I will be trying is MASSIVE - 2x20ga Ti wrapped with 24ga Ti, all coiled around a 4mm screwdriver. As you can see below, there is no way it will fit in the Stumpy, but I have a Low Pro and Evil Monk on the way (from China...) and I'll have the space I need. Once I have the decks in my hands and can see the geometry with the leads, I will flatten this coil into an oval. This will provide a nearly flat surface on the top part of the coil, minimizing the effect of gravity. Some oil will drip through the top coil/roll underneath, but that will likely be vaporized when it hits the bottom part of the coil, ideally resulting in zero reclaim.

Note that given that the outer wrap draws hardly any power, I will likely unwrap the outer coil and snip it from the leads. This will then just require 2 leads in a post, or 1 per post in a dual coil RDA. I'm going to need a lot of power for all this mass...



Oh yeah - check out the Zane RDA. This is even better than the Evil Monk/Pi2 since you can get a positive/negative along the diagonal, rather than just the shorter edges. The post holes are 1.5mm, good enough for 2 20ga leads.

ixtapa said:

I'm getting closer...

@2clicker: have you seen this build? It looks similar to the build you have described.

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wow that is close. difs being that the outter coil isnt a clapton and its not as tight around the inner coil.

im builidng one tonight hopefully in preparation for my first rosin squishing tomorrow!

if the build happens i will post pics.

just built my first fully titanium Clapton wrapped around another titanium micro coil with the leads twisted. I'm excited to try it but I have to go out to eat first. That wire from crazy wire in the uk was very dirty. It took me forever to clean it all off and after all the work I still feel like I didn't get it all off. Def. a couple dark spots on the Clapton. Is it cool to heat it at a low temp for just a bit to maybe get the rest off?

gladthaturaglide said:

just built my first fully titanium Clapton wrapped around another titanium micro coil with the leads twisted. I'm excited to try it but I have to go out to eat first. That wire from crazy wire in the uk was very dirty. It took me forever to clean it all off and after all the work I still feel like I didn't get it all off. Def. a couple dark spots on the Clapton. Is it cool to heat it at a low temp for just a bit to maybe get the rest off?

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The white oxidation that is most feared with titanium forms after a bright glow. I am sure to remove heat the moment I notice glowing, and have had no white oxidation. If it's not glowing when you heat it, go to town. Cut the juice when they start glowing and you'll be fine.

gladthaturaglide said:

just built my first fully titanium Clapton wrapped around another titanium micro coil with the leads twisted. I'm excited to try it but I have to go out to eat first. That wire from crazy wire in the uk was very dirty. It took me forever to clean it all off and after all the work I still feel like I didn't get it all off. Def. a couple dark spots on the Clapton. Is it cool to heat it at a low temp for just a bit to maybe get the rest off?

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ixtapa said:

The white oxidation that is most feared with titanium forms after a bright glow. I am sure to remove heat the moment I notice glowing, and have had no white oxidation. If it's not glowing when you heat it, go to town. Cut the juice when they start glowing and you'll be fine.

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agreed. what you want to look out for is the oxidation that is caused by the high heat. keep your temps below glowing temps and you can dry fire it to remove residual machine oils or whatever is on there. its still very possible that there is still unwanted shit on there though. im done buying from the places with dirty wire. lightning vapes now sells Ti wire and the reports are in comes in as clean as there kanthal. of which is ideal.

anyway, as long as you arent glowing... have at it.

I got my Lavabox DNA 200 device in last week along with a rush purchase of 10ft G1 Titanium Wire from 101Vapes because I bought an RDA clone from them in the past and knew their shipping speed was good. They both arrived on the same day. I cleaned it with alcohol and it was definitely covered in machine oil. It is 28g wire and is super thin, when I tried to pulse at 6w and squeeze with ceramic tweezers to make a micro coil it must have shorted out because the Ti blew white hot (skipped right past red/orange) and snapped at the post mount like a fuse. This is by design so it wasn't surprising but was disappointing. So I made a spaced coil version and ran it with e-cig liquid in TC mode using the standard curve for G1 Ti from Steam Engine and it worked pretty well but not perfect.

So I ordered 50 ft of 0.5mm from Sweet Spot Ti wires who provide their own custom curve file for the DNA 200 devices directly from their website. This is more expensive but is supposed to be the best Ti wire for vaping purposes. They also offer 0.4mm which they state runs a little cooler and has a wider temperature control window and is better for tanks with limited airflow. They offer a separate curve file for each diameter. I only run RDAs and plan on running a concentrate build in the same style device so I went with the 0.5. I'll let you guys know how it works out as I begin to experiment next week. Still gotta pick up a few diff RDA clones to find the best situation but I love the low pro and the post-less decks you guys are showing, I think that is the best idea going forward. Probably pick up a Velocity clone for e-juice and then focus on the best concentrate setup which might end up being a combination of two different rdas that have matching internal diameters.

Near as I can tell for our purposes a juice well is just going to function as two big negatives 1) a reclaim trap and 2) a void or space below the direct air flow channels/slots in the rda sleeve.

WakeAndVape said:

Sigelei said they will replace, but it takes a week and I have to pay for shipping both ways (wtf??!?)

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I just wanted to mention, and I don't know how to say this without sounding like a dick, but if that's in their warranty they're legally right. When I bought my IPV D2 the warranty card even stated it. From said card:

Important Notice:
The cost of shipping the device TO AND FROM our warranty center is NOT covered, and is the sole expense of the customer BOTH ways.


You may find that your warranty card states as much. Now, on the more positive side of things, knowing this makes me appreciate the companies I buy my other vape stuff from, Randy and other sites that don't have to cover shipping but do it anyways because they're going out of their way to give good business.

Don't worry, you don't sound 'dickish'
I know the warranty States it, but it still doesn't mean it's a practice I agree with.
I still haven't sent it back yet for that reason (and because I don't have a back up)

Quetzalcoatl said:

I just wanted to mention, and I don't know how to say this without sounding like a dick, but if that's in their warranty they're legally right. When I bought my IPV D2 the warranty card even stated it. From said card:

Important Notice:
The cost of shipping the device TO AND FROM our warranty center is NOT covered, and is the sole expense of the customer BOTH ways.


You may find that your warranty card states as much. Now, on the more positive side of things, knowing this makes me appreciate the companies I buy my other vape stuff from, Randy and other sites that don't have to cover shipping but do it anyways because they're going out of their way to give good business.

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While waiting for fasttech to come through with my more spacious RDA's, I finally got my wax in. For over a week I have been dabbing on two parallel 20ga Ti cores wrapped with 30ga Kanthal, four wraps at 2mm diameter, and no wick. It has worked amazingly well. In this time, I have had zero reclaim - nothing makes it through the coils to the deck. I load a dab on to the fused clapton and pulse a couple times until the wax begins to melt. At that point, the clapton sucks up all the oil into the interior. I then hit in earnest. So clean.



(You can see how I cut the 30ga off the core to ease insertion into the posts)

When I get a new deck I'll experiment with larger dabs on a larger coil, but honestly, I can't see much improvement over this current build. A larger coil could hold a greater volume of oil, but I don't see myself topping this one out. I guess I should attempt to find the max volume this build will hold, ideally in grams of wax. We'll see. But until then I am exceptionally happy running a wickless fused clapton. This really seems like the way to go.

ixtapa said:

While waiting for fasttech to come through with my more spacious RDA's, I finally got my wax in. For over a week I have been dabbing on two parallel 20ga Ti cores wrapped with 30ga Kanthal, four wraps at 2mm diameter, and no wick. It has worked amazingly well. In this time, I have had zero reclaim - nothing makes it through the coils to the deck. I load a dab on to the fused clapton and pulse a couple times until the wax begins to melt. At that point, the clapton sucks up all the oil into the interior. I then hit in earnest. So clean.

(You can see how I cut the 30ga off the core to ease insertion into the posts)

When I get a new deck I'll experiment with larger dabs on a larger coil, but honestly, I can't see much improvement over this current build. A larger coil could hold a greater volume of oil, but I don't see myself topping this one out. I guess I should attempt to find the max volume this build will hold, ideally in grams of wax. We'll see. But until then I am exceptionally happy running a wickless fused clapton. This really seems like the way to go.

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What do you mean by "four wraps at 2mm diameter"?
Edit: lol never mind. I get it.

ixtapa said:

While waiting for fasttech to come through with my more spacious RDA's, I finally got my wax in. For over a week I have been dabbing on two parallel 20ga Ti cores wrapped with 30ga Kanthal, four wraps at 2mm diameter, and no wick. It has worked amazingly well. In this time, I have had zero reclaim - nothing makes it through the coils to the deck. I load a dab on to the fused clapton and pulse a couple times until the wax begins to melt. At that point, the clapton sucks up all the oil into the interior. I then hit in earnest. So clean.

(You can see how I cut the 30ga off the core to ease insertion into the posts)

When I get a new deck I'll experiment with larger dabs on a larger coil, but honestly, I can't see much improvement over this current build. A larger coil could hold a greater volume of oil, but I don't see myself topping this one out. I guess I should attempt to find the max volume this build will hold, ideally in grams of wax. We'll see. But until then I am exceptionally happy running a wickless fused clapton. This really seems like the way to go.

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i have also been loving the performance of the wrapped clapton. and i also pulse when loading to let the oil really wick into the coil. but only when using my rig with glass because it has to be turned upside down. if im using the rig upright like normal then i do not pre-wick it. i will sort of pulse it still, but would be puffing on it as not to lose those terps.

i need to get to building bad. ive been so busy building a rosin press that i have not even ordered the wire i need. maybe ill do that right now.

@ixtapa did you drill the hole post? That is a stumpy correct? I really like the build. Also, why TI cores with kanthal wraps? Are you using it with temp control?

WakeAndVape said:

@ixtapa did you drill the hole post? That is a stumpy correct? I really like the build. Also, why TI cores with kanthal wraps? Are you using it with temp control?

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Yes, it's a Stumpy, but no, I did not drill the post. The two 24ga (more precisely, .5mm) leads fit into the posts easily enough - I didn't bother even trying to get them in with the wrap.

I love the idea of using TC to vape dabs. It strikes me as a tremendous advantage over using nails - toxic reactants are much more prevalent at high temperatures, whereas most of what we desire can be achieved at low temperature. I used Kanthal because I only have the aforementioned 24ga and ~21ga (.75mm) in titanium. I made a fused clapton from them and it is huge - way too large for a Stumpy. I posted a pic of it a page or so back. I'm waiting for a new deck so I can get it going. It should be amazing.

In the mean time, to get a smaller build, I did have some 30ga Kanthal lying around so I've been using it to make smaller coils. It has absolutely no impact on temperature control (I worked out all the physics), but that said, it's got that taste... If my big coil doesn't work out for whatever reason, I'll get some 30ga Ti (I've been looking at http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Ti...ght-Round-Wire,-30_dash_Ga,-Soft/699500?Pos=3) and wrap it around the 21ga and make a slightly less beefy build. I've got a couple ideas that I can't wait to try out! Come on FastTech!!!

i just read the last 47 pages of this thread in a few days!! i cant believe i just did that lol. so much good information though, thank you all so much. i dont have many questions now, just ready to play!!

im not really a dabber, mostly vape flowers. but ive been getting into rosin/concentrates lately for stealthy situations, especially music festivals or going out for the night. i found the "secret for thc e-liquid" thread, which got me to buy some puff majic, and an evic vtc mini (so glad i got this, i knew the temperature control would come in handy!). been using an aspire k1 with stock coils with my mix, and its ok. mix is around 2 parts PM to 1 part shatter, and it gets me by. its really the wicking thats the problem i think, it gets dry so fast with these style coils and the substance we are using.

i bought a crown uwell tank, and been vaping 0 nic juice through it to experiment. temp control is so fun!! been getting fantastic results. i think its time to try some canna-juice in it. im thinking about getting this rba for it to custom build some coils - http://www.vaperoyalty.com/uwell-crown-rba-head-kit/

i know this deck is super tiny, and not normally what you guys deal with, but looking for opinions if this setup will work with some ready wick, or possibly even fc2000? fc2000 would be ideal i think, and my mix is pretty viscous so im hopeful (its very similar to honey, but gets wattery when warmed up). but im thinking the fc2000 is too porous and the tank might just leak everywhere. but the thought of ready wick definitely sounds promising, if i can cram some in there. opinions?

i will definitely be getting a standard rda atty for legitimate dabbing, like the majority of yall are doing. but i just love putting a g or two into a tank, and being able to sip on it when i need to without any kind of prep. so stealthy!!

Latest wickless build: 2x24ga Ti core wrapped with 24ga Ti, coiled with four wraps around a flat head screwdriver.



From the side:



I think this is ultimately an improvement on a stacked stovetop build. Flattening the upper half of the coil prevents oil from dripping around to the bottom of the coil - it doesn't "roll" around to the underside. Virtually all of it is held in place in the upper half by capillary action within the fused clapton. It is still conceivable that oil would drip straight down, but the bottom half of the coil should catch and vaporize any such drippings.

This is pretty close to my final build. Using 20ga Ti cores was a no-go for me. Both my IPV D2 and eVic VTC start acting really wonky somewhere under .1ohm. Getting that resistance up was taking too much mass, even on the Monk. It is definitely worth experimenting with a thinner wrap around the 24ga cores, as it might provide better capillary action. Because of this, I might eventually move to 30ga to wrap, I just don't have any at the moment. Frankly, I'm not too motivated as this build is stellar as is.

One last note - the drip tip with the Monk places plastic dangerously close to the coil. I swapped it with the all metal (and slightly roomier) tip from the Stumpy and it works flawlessly.

Ixtapa! Awesome build dude! That's genius. I've been running a 24g/32g titanium Clapton wrapped around a standard 24g titanium contact micro coil in a velocity clone. It looks just like a single coil build in an ecig rda without the cotton. Thing has been knocking my ass out all week. It's like walking around with a full dab rig in my pocket. Pretty amazing actually. The flavor is also through the roof. The concept of having all the secondary reclaim oil turned into vapor by that middle coil has made so much difference in quality of the hit. Hope you guys have a good weekend.