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Divine Tribe atty's

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
I emailed Matt about this issue or thought when the first v2 came out. The holes are intended to be that close actually. The airflow is what creates the vapor. I think Matt has done his R&D and found this set up to give off the most vapor. Try firing your donut without the cap on. Then do the same and blow on it. When blown, visible vapor emerges

I do agree with the leakage problems though. This thing isn't perfect for sure. But I think Matt has his priorities right. I would prioritize vapor production and flavor over leakage too.

The holes on the bottom although may be a leakage point, drainage holes may be better off because once the atty is clogged and gunked up internally, it may be beneficial to have a drainage point. However, this can also be achieved by removing the contact pin on the bottom for cleaning. I like the little bit of airflow those holes provide though


I disagree here.

I don't see how it would make a difference if the air holes are higher, you would still get good airflow. think of an atomizer for liquid nicotine the only air holes it has are no where close to the heating element. The airflow does not create the vapor the heating element does. The airflow allows you to inhale the vapor...

I personally hate when I get into my car after work and realize my atty leaked out a huge chunk of my expensive concentrate.

A proper atty= airflow+ no leakage which ='s a long atty life and happy customer. I still get amazing airflow even when the bottom holes (where u screw in the atty ) are clogged.
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
I disagree here.

I don't see how it would make a difference if the air holes are higher, you would still get good airflow. think of an atomizer for liquid nicotine the only air holes it has are no where close to the heating element. The airflow does not create the vapor the heating element does. The airflow allows you to inhale the vapor...

I personally hate when I get into my car after work and realize my atty leaked out a huge chunk of my expensive concentrate.

A proper atty= airflow+ no leakage which ='s a long atty life and happy customer. I still get amazing airflow even when the bottom holes (where u screw in the atty ) are clogged.

Yea I agree with you. I am only repeating what Matt has responded to me to the very same question. I do think all the improvements you listed is needed.

But from my understanding most atomizers for dabbing and e liquid all has airflow passing directly through the element. The most popular e liquid atty is the aspire Atlantis. It has direct airflow passing through its huge vertical coil. The only atty besides the dt donut that I know has air holes above the element is the nero coils by yocan. They also have very similar spacing or closeness to the heating element as the dt donut.

I do believe the closer the air holes the more vapor production you will get. The amount of airflow directly onto the coils matter I think. I just don't know will it be THAT bad just a little higher
 
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DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
Cleaning the DT Donut.
For those of you who haven't seen Matt's video, I'm going to explain how to clean the DT v2.5.

First off, with a cold unit, plug one airhole with your finger and blow thru the other one while the firing button is pressed. You will begin to see visible thick vapor blowing out the top of your atomizer.
Don't let the unit get TOO hot but very warm is ok. Keep this up a while. Then take a paper towel with isopropyl %99 alcohol on it, and swab the inside donut ring.
Then, press your firing button and blow onto the ceramic donut from above it, and you should see the redness of the donut appear. Back off. Don't let the donut stay red for too long.
Do this a few times until the alcohol vapes off. Soon you should see that the white color of the donut is returning.
(Also, shaking the unit while holding down the firing pin, as if to throw the oil out of the unit, will help clearing out.)
Then this next step is very important. Set it UPRIGHT on a silicone mat or similar non-stick surface and let it cool down. When you return to your cooled atty you will see a lot of reclaim (used concentrate) has leaked out the bottom holes in the 510 pin.
Clean well with paper towel soaked in %99 isopropyl alcohol. By now you should have an almost completely white inner donut and a clean 510 pin, ready for use !
The resistance (ohm) reading should be between 0.7 an 0.9 on a cold unit. If the resistance is much higher, you probably over heated the unit but it will still function.
Hope that helps ! It's kept me in clean-tasting turps for a while now. Vape on !
 

b0

Cloudy...
Hi guys, just received my DT donut with an eleaf 40w and was wondering wich temp settings do you use for low temp, high temp/dabbing and for cleaning the atomizer.

Total noob here! :tinfoil:
 

Hoosier

Well-Known Member
I use 310F(not sure the conversion to C) on the eleaf 40w, and 13.5 watts pulsed to clean.
I prefer to break in a clean unit at 300. As the residual builds up, kick it to 310 for a bit. Then I clean at 16w until white again. I then put mouthpiece back on, detach atty from istick, and blow into the piece until I push all runoff out the holes near the battery connections. Then a nice wipe down with ISO soaked qtipa, and repeat. I only clean after every gram or two of rosin.
 
Hoosier,

JETSlnw

New Member
Hi divine tribe. I recently found a product similar or the same to yours. The company is called ogpens not sure if they have any connection to you. But they came out with 2200 mah battery 4.0-6.0 voltage. Their atomizer are exactly the same with yours... Not sure if the battery from that company will be good for this atty or not. & also I used the atty with a box running 30w able to get about 10 hits out of it total and after that my box said to "check atomizer" and it never worked again
 

Vapeordie

New Member
Love the v2.5 ceramic, thanks again Matt. The glass top is way better than the ceramic!

I am having difficulty with the eleaf tc40w in the last day, I used it in wattage mode with a different atomizer (my co2 liquid cartridge) and ever since then I can't seem to keep it in TC mode, every time I fire it it goes back into wattage mode. Has anyone else experienced this?
 

skayleef

Well-Known Member
Love the v2.5 ceramic, thanks again Matt. The glass top is way better than the ceramic!

I am having difficulty with the eleaf tc40w in the last day, I used it in wattage mode with a different atomizer (my co2 liquid cartridge) and ever since then I can't seem to keep it in TC mode, every time I fire it it goes back into wattage mode. Has anyone else experienced this?

No but that sounds really annoying. Are you sure you aren't accidently clicking anything ?
 

clearlight

Well-Known Member
Love the v2.5 ceramic, thanks again Matt. The glass top is way better than the ceramic!

I am having difficulty with the eleaf tc40w in the last day, I used it in wattage mode with a different atomizer (my co2 liquid cartridge) and ever since then I can't seem to keep it in TC mode, every time I fire it it goes back into wattage mode. Has anyone else experienced this?

I also had strange issues switching out different attys on my iStick 40W TC... in TC mode. For one thing, using attys with significant differences in resistance means you have to unlock and re-lock the resistance each time you switch. But it seemed like even with doing that correctly still either the donut or the ecig or both would slip out of TC.

The problems all went away once I started using the TC mode only for my 2.5s, never for my ecig. Still using the ecig on the iStick, but strictly in VW mode. Things were getting crazy for a minute there but once an order of two new 2.5 bases came in I locked the iStick resistance using one of them and swore to never use my ecig atty in TC on the iStick ever again. So far so good. (besides the separate issue below)



75 WATT TC IT would read the ohms as.33 and would barely vape at max temp. tried multiple addys

One of my 2.5s worked great for a while but now it reads 0.30 ohms in TC but it still reads 0.78 in VW mode. In this condition it does not get hot enough to vape even at 600F in TC, that atty only really works in VW mode now.

Anybody know what that means? Maybe it is some hint that when I screw the 2.5 into the iStick cold, it reads 0.76 in TC, but even tap the button for fraction of a second and throws TempProtection immediately and then reads 0.30?

Oh and it happened right after I cleaned it. maybe too aggressively? twisting the corner of an iso-ed paper towel in there.. maybe I was pushing too hard right on the donut. That's my theory.
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
Hey Matt. Any idea when the new donuts will be available. I'm ready to buy more back up donuts because I'm down to my last one. Should I wait out or will it take a bit longer and should I just get the older donut
 

Vapeordie

New Member
I also had strange issues switching out different attys on my iStick 40W TC... in TC mode. For one thing, using attys with significant differences in resistance means you have to unlock and re-lock the resistance each time you switch. But it seemed like even with doing that correctly still either the donut or the ecig or both would slip out of TC.

The problems all went away once I started using the TC mode only for my 2.5s, never for my ecig. Still using the ecig on the iStick, but strictly in VW mode. Things were getting crazy for a minute there but once an order of two new 2.5 bases came in I locked the iStick resistance using one of them and swore to never use my ecig atty in TC on the iStick ever again. So far so good. (besides the separate issue below)





One of my 2.5s worked great for a while but now it reads 0.30 ohms in TC but it still reads 0.78 in VW mode. In this condition it does not get hot enough to vape even at 600F in TC, that atty only really works in VW mode now.

Anybody know what that means? Maybe it is some hint that when I screw the 2.5 into the iStick cold, it reads 0.76 in TC, but even tap the button for fraction of a second and throws TempProtection immediately and then reads 0.30?

Oh and it happened right after I cleaned it. maybe too aggressively? twisting the corner of an iso-ed paper towel in there.. maybe I was pushing too hard right on the donut. That's my theory.



I also had strange issues switching out different attys on my iStick 40W TC... in TC mode. For one thing, using attys with significant differences in resistance means you have to unlock and re-lock the resistance each time you switch. But it seemed like even with doing that correctly still either the donut or the ecig or both would slip out of TC.

The problems all went away once I started using the TC mode only for my 2.5s, never for my ecig. Still using the ecig on the iStick, but strictly in VW mode. Things were getting crazy for a minute there but once an order of two new 2.5 bases came in I locked the iStick resistance using one of them and swore to never use my ecig atty in TC on the iStick ever again. So far so good. (besides the separate issue below)





One of my 2.5s worked great for a while but now it reads 0.30 ohms in TC but it still reads 0.78 in VW mode. In this condition it does not get hot enough to vape even at 600F in TC, that atty only really works in VW mode now.

Anybody know what that means? Maybe it is some hint that when I screw the 2.5 into the iStick cold, it reads 0.76 in TC, but even tap the button for fraction of a second and throws TempProtection immediately and then reads 0.30?

Oh and it happened right after I cleaned it. maybe too aggressively? twisting the corner of an iso-ed paper towel in there.. maybe I was pushing too hard right on the donut. That's my theory.


My Atty is reading in the 1.7x range when I attach the DT 2.5

I looked at the brass connection where the Atty attaches to the mod box and it is not sitting flat, it's at a slight angle

I'm guessing that I'm not making a good connection maybe?

I like using the TC40W for my co2 carts because I can adjust the resistance all the way down to 2.3 or 2.4 W... My istick 20w won't allow me to use less than 4.5w on the cart and the cart doesn't need that much power.
 

NimbusVapor

Well-Known Member
I Just receive my new attys and I am super stoked to try these out but my local shop only has the eleaf 60w TC and not the eleaf 40w TC , does anyone knwo if its ok to use the 60w TC?
 

clearlight

Well-Known Member
My Atty is reading in the 1.7x range when I attach the DT 2.5

I looked at the brass connection where the Atty attaches to the mod box and it is not sitting flat, it's at a slight angle

I'm guessing that I'm not making a good connection maybe?

I like using the TC40W for my co2 carts because I can adjust the resistance all the way down to 2.3 or 2.4 W... My istick 20w won't allow me to use less than 4.5w on the cart and the cart doesn't need that much power.

I did that too until I burned out 4 or 5 by forgetting I was still at high wattage form another device. Finally swore off the practice and got a fixed voltage one just for disposables/BUD/sapphire whatever you wanna call em. The uber low voltage is cool but wasn't worth it in the long run for me, although the fill syringes and empty carts are cheap, it's a pain in the butt. Worst of all is getting caught out away from home and all you have is one of those, you screw it in, hit it, realize you just burnt it out, and now you're stuck there all day w no medicine. Couple times of that and I was "never. again. ever."
 

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
Just wanted to say HEY COOL to the poster (see comment here) who shared this lil mini bubbler and o-ring here on the thread, works pretty well ! Here's an image:

HpewIpc.jpg


That's the v2.5 DT Donut on an IPV 4S, in temp mode, 20 Joules @ 320 F.
Of course, I prefer Matt's Bubbler Attachment he offers on the site, and generally use that.
He's got male/female and 14/18 mm sizes. Works great. I'll get a pic of it up here as soon as I clean up my bubbler, she's gotten a bit dirty with use.

All the best, everyone !
 

StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
so far so good. my father seems to be doing OK with this unit set to 13w
i should have ordered one for myself at the same time.

I have 8 almost new AW IMR 18350. it seems a shame not to put them to use.
Is there something available in this product line to use them?
 

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
so far so good. my father seems to be doing OK with this unit set to 13w
i should have ordered one for myself at the same time.

I have 8 almost new AW IMR 18350. it seems a shame not to put them to use.
Is there something available in this product line to use them?

Do u have a battery unit that uses 18350 batteries. If u do attach the atomizer to it and use it!!!
 

ChrisCT

Well-Known Member
Just wanted to say HEY COOL to the poster (see comment here) who shared this lil mini bubbler and o-ring here on the thread, works pretty well ! Here's an image:

HpewIpc.jpg


That's the v2.5 DT Donut on an IPV 4S, in temp mode, 20 Joules @ 320 F.
Of course, I prefer Matt's Bubbler Attachment he offers on the site, and generally use that.
He's got male/female and 14/18 mm sizes. Works great. I'll get a pic of it up here as soon as I clean up my bubbler, she's gotten a bit dirty with use.

All the best, everyone !
How'd you get yours so fast?!? Mine is still on a slow-boat-from-China!
 
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