Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

Thanks for the info @SamuraiSam! If you don't mind sharing, where did you buy that pneumatic press? Looks nice (and possibly affordable, aka not $3,000 lol)

TankHankerous said:

Fuck me, this is just awful news. I ordered the small t-shirt press months ago and it still hasn't arrived. Now I hear it sucks. Man, what a waste of money.

Hopefully there are some cheap mods to make it good, such as removing the gay flexible springs somehow....

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Yeah that's how I am feeling too. All bad early reviews.

As far as the springs and plate goes, we will just have to remove the springs and buy shorter bolts. Problem solved there

Also, luckily @Joel W. is a badass and will be able to make us some smaller 2"x2" Cuni plates that we will be able to set on the dnail 5x5" plates to cut the surface area down by 84% (i.e. Going from 25 sq inches down to 4 sq inches)

If those two mods don't work, I'll be selling mine locally on Craigslist for around $300 and then that money will fund a very nice vise setup

My room mate @slurpin_terps who is the other half of @slab_tek has been following Foundation Extracts and well before they had created Rosin Technologies and the production press, he had figured out by watching some of their older videos a few times over, exactly what type of pneumatic arbor press they were using. He then scoured ebay until he found a lightly used pnuematic arbor press. His press is smaller than the one Foundation Extracts was using, the benefit of this is we can take it with us a lot easier than the T shirt press. Although the total force excerted is not as high with this smaller press.

The MSRP was nearly a thousand bucks but he got it for less than half cost, the AP7 seems to go for 3-400 well used on eBay. We called a distributor of this companys press and they helped us find the perfect magic green button to operate it, and for another $15 bucks or so to cover some hose and fittings I plumbed it all up in a day and a single trip to an industrial supply store.

We now have some high carbon steel plates that we heat and cycle through so higher line pressures can be used.

For what its worth I disassembled the hair iron completely and was going to mount the plates but the temperature was too high then I designed a better plate/heater I just need to set aside a few hundred dollars to build it. So i just put the thing back together and have been pressing on a sturdy part of it at about 55 psi. The press goes up to 100psi working line pressure.

Our pnuematic arbor press is manufactured by Air Mite from Chicago, IL. Our model is AP7 it has a 1 1/2" stroke. It has a spring piston return (some types of these presses may have an air powered piston return)

You could get the electric juice press that the hardpress uses but it's 1k, looks nice though. Pumps out more pressure then the rosin tech pneumatic too.

Whoa, so many presses. Hmmm, I have been giving the surface area question a lot of consideration lately. It does indeed seem that big plates require a hell of a lot more pressure to get the same squish results as a smaller plate, and moreover as many of you have realized, we do not want the heated area to be much bigger than what we are squishing (ideally we want to leave the resin somewhere to go lol).

As such, having considered all of the options out there, honestly I still think that either a vice/vise/weiss rig with small heated plates (like my man @Joel W. is making) or even a straightener in a vice is going to be enough. It is all about keeping the heated surface as small as possible to concentrate force and boost the amount of PSI you're bringing to bear on the material.

I actually think I am going to abandon my hydraulic press idea since the right kind of press to get the amount of PSI for the 10 x 10 heated silicone mats that I have is going to be bigger than me! Not to mention I'm still gonna have to get steel plates to mount the silicone to lol

Hey @SamuraiSam that small hydraulic (or was it pneumatic) press looks absolutely ideal! It would work perfectly with my current straightener (which can stand an absolute crushing!!! I have broken and put it back together good as new more than 10 times now!).

710Whip announced a pre-order for a compact pneumatic press for ~$500. The compact size/weight/price seems to be a big plus. Weighs 12lbs, with 1 Ton of pressure on the plates which are heated using a standard e-nail. Uses an air compressor at 150PSI but you need to supply it.

http://www.domeless.com/?page_id=5#!/Rosin-Press-By-Mr-Rosin/p/55666627/

^This press makes me want to circle back to my cheap bottle jack in a box frame idea. $15-20 for thousands of pounds of hydraulic force.....

GuyLeDuche said:

^This press makes me want to circle back to my cheap bottle jack in a box frame idea. $15-20 for thousands of pounds of hydraulic force.....

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That should work great, especially with some plates from @Joel W.

Hows it squishers

I've been watching this thread with interest there's some great bodging going on I love it
Ive broke a few irons already with a screw type nut cracker, which led me to this
Nut Demander Nutcracker - Black Walnuts, Macadamia, Brazil; USA ...
www.nutdemander.com/
Nut Demander Nutcracker - Black Walnuts, Macadamia, Brazil; USA-Made. Heirloom-quality nutcrackers with 8000 pounds of force, fingertip control for hardest ...

Expensive I know but quality built,see the video.
If I was spending money on build I think this is tidy

5 - 20T Sidewinder Jack/Mini Jack | Power Team | Product Detail​

I got great results from vice grips but
Currently I'm using a bicycle brake to squeeze a pair of 1" ceramic plates it's got plenty of pressure and is a very quick on/off I found a vice to be too slow IMO

Or
http://www.google.ie/imgres?imgurl=...d=0CFMQMygqMCpqFQoTCPyNrtfSv8gCFYY-PgodfVcJ3A
Sorry for the untidy post n thanks

Squish it then dish it

Would a compressor of this sort work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Portable-Air-Compressor-C2002/203162815

Edit:

I've contacted Darid to get a direct answer. 19 spots for pre-order left. I've been pretty pleased with his ceramic e-nail over the past 8 months or so. Hoping to reserve a spot as soon as he can clear up some details.

EpicNameGuy said:

Would a compressor of this sort work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Portable-Air-Compressor-C2002/203162815

Edit:

I've contacted Darid to get a direct answer. 19 spots for pre-order left. I've been pretty pleased with his ceramic e-nail over the past 8 months or so. Hoping to reserve a spot as soon as he can clear up some details.

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Cool, let us know. I'm super tempted to order one but I want to know how much extra a compressor will add to the price first. He did mention on IG that this is more of a teaser and he'll have proper videos and photos up within a few days.

Monsoon said:

710Whip announced a pre-order for a compact pneumatic press for ~$500. The compact size/weight/price seems to be a big plus. Weighs 12lbs, with 1 Ton of pressure on the plates which are heated using a standard e-nail. Uses an air compressor at 150PSI but you need to supply it.

http://www.domeless.com/?page_id=5#!/Rosin-Press-By-Mr-Rosin/p/55666627/

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Where everyone's rosin press should be, nestled snugly between the Keurig and the pumpkin pie. It is all about priorities in the morning!

anyone tried super low temp pressing...

under vacuum?

I actually can't believe I missed this topic, but I too agree with all of my peers here about the stamp collecting (pun absolutely intended) question.

I remember a while back when many of the concentrate fans in this community used to complain about having to scrape the dish after making solvent concentrates, now people are deciding to literally stick your freshly produced rosin (produced straight onto a non-stick surface no less!!!) to a big flat solid glass surface (entailing more scraping, or complex freezing etc).

For collection, I simply use a flat head ti dabber, use the stick and lift motion to get the first chunk of rosin stuck to dabber and then very gently run the rosin on the end of the dabber (not the dabber itself!) across the parchment. Collects up a treat.

After this, I use a NoGoo nonstick finger thimble (silicone) to very firmly pull all of the rosin off of the fine point of the dabber (which works exceptionally and I leave nothing behind on the dabber). Then I use the nonstick thimble to put the dab straight into a nonstick container (oil slick) and that takes its rightful place in a mason jar

BTW, I have spoken to oil slick about the slick wrap, they suggest:

"First off, I think it would be good to explain how the parchment side is made. There is not any type of "Silicone Layer" applied to the surface of the paper. Rather, The paper is permeated with a silicone solution. So the entire thing is a matrix of silicone and paper.
No "layer" to compromise...the whole paper is made of silicone and cellulose."

The trichomes, and waxy lipids pool up on the paper, and can be gathered. The pigments (usually in the area of highest pressure) can be pressed into the paper and DYE the paper same as a heat pressed ink would do. We have seen this in every variety of PAPER product we use. (parchments of all types).

When we press in to Slick Sheet (PTFE Film) We see the pigments mixed into the Rosin more readily, as there is nothing for the pigments to adhere to. If you look closely at the video you mentioned, you will se it is exactly as I described in both instances.

I hope this explains your issue a bit better. Just to re-iterate:
There is no "Silicone Layer" (its all a matrix of paper & silicone)
The discoloration is dyed from the plant pigments in whatever you are pressing. Using a non-paper product would avoid seeing the staining...but the pigments will always be there."

As far as I am concerned, this checks out. Absolutely those pigments etc will dye the cellulose aspect of the silicone/cellulose matrix being used, in the same way that such pigments give the cellulose (plant fiber) its natural color on the plant!

I am stoked to say that oil slick wrap appears to be no problem after all! On the contrary, for flower rosin, it will mean that you get less green stuff in your dab than if you use PTFE! I still use PTFE for bubble squishing though, also an essential tool for various other concentrate purposes (especially for making an impromptu non-stick surface ).

Please ignore all of my past posts suggesting that slick wrap is not safe for rosin squishing, this knowledge actually firmly cements my view in the opposite direction!

Monsoon said:

710Whip announced a pre-order for a compact pneumatic press for ~$500. The compact size/weight/price seems to be a big plus. Weighs 12lbs, with 1 Ton of pressure on the plates which are heated using a standard e-nail. Uses an air compressor at 150PSI but you need to supply it.

http://www.domeless.com/?page_id=5#!/Rosin-Press-By-Mr-Rosin/p/55666627/

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That's definitely a nice setup for the price. Especially if you already have an enail and compressor.

The only thing is, isn't a 150 psi air compressor going to be fairly loud? I wouldn't mind but that may cause problems for others.

Does anyone know the pressure that the Milling Vises put out?

If a vise setup achieves the same pressure as the 710 whip pneumatic press without the need of an air compressor then I'll probably still go the vise route since it will be half the price.

BoogerMan said:

Does anyone know the pressure that the Milling Vises put out?

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This 4" says 8,200 psi

This 6" says 10,000 psi

Joel W. said:

This 4" says 8,200 psi

This 6" says 10,000 psi

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Awesome thanks!

That 6" vise says 10,000 lbs. Is that 10,000 lbs of pressure or 10,000 psi? If it is 10,000 lbs over your 4 sq inch (2x2") blocks wouldn't that be 2,500 psi?

So if an arbor press or pneumatic press says 1 ton of pressure (2,000 lbs of pressure) does that mean 2,000 psi? Or is it saying 2,000 lbs of pressure total so if you are pressing over 4 sq inches (2x2") then you would only have 500 psi. Is that correct?

Either way it seems like those milling vises have WAYYYYYY more pressure which would allow for lower temp presses. I'll be going the milling vise route unless my math is very wrong

10,000 psi of clamping force.

I believe if you had a 1" x "1 inch block in the center of the vise, you could reach the 10k psi (pounds per square inch) of clamping force they list.

lf there is 2" x 2" blocks with a 1" round puck of weed .050" thick, all the pressure should be on the weed and there should be a .050" gap around the bud, still giving you your full psi on the bud.

My thinking anyways.. only when your puck is 2" x 2" will you be down to 2500psi

@BoogerMan

You got it- a tool is rated for a total amount of force, in pounds. Divide the pounds of force actually being used by the area (in square inches) of your pucks after pressing to calculate your psi.

A hand powered press is nice because it allows you to control how quickly the force is applied. Hand powered presses can also be used beyond their rated limits.

I use a press rated for 3 tons with 60 lbs on the end of the bar. I double that force, but my pucks are about 2 square inches coming out. So that's a total of 12,000 lbs of force, but applied at only 6,000 psi.

shark sandwich said:

@BoogerMan

You got it- a tool is rated for a total amount of force, in pounds. Divide the pounds of force actually being used by the area (in square inches) of your pucks after pressing to calculate your psi.

A hand powered press is nice because it allows you to control how quickly the force is applied. Hand powered presses can also be used beyond their rated limits.

I use a press rated for 3 tons with 60 lbs on the end of the bar. I double that force, but my pucks are about 2 square inches coming out. So that's 12,000 lbs of force total, but the pressing was done at 6,000 psi.

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Thanks for confirming!

So the psi on the dnail press is not even close to a vise, even if I use the 2x2" cuni plates on the dnail press. I think someone said the dnail press was like 3/4 ton of pressure or maybe it was even 1 ton. With the 4 sq inch cuni plates, at max it will do 500 psi. With the standard 5x5" dnail plates, 25 sq inches, at max it will do 80 psi. That's kinda sad. Bummer

Looks like some of next paycheck will be buying a full vise setup and the dnail press will go right up for sale, unless I want to keep it to press hash but that just seems silly. Man I should have done my research first. The dnail press was definitely an impulse buy

Joel W. said:

10,000 psi of clamping force.

I believe if you had a 1" x "1 inch block in the center of the vise, you could reach the 10k psi (pounds per square inch) of clamping force they list.

lf there is 2" x 2" blocks with a 1" round puck of weed .050" thick, all the pressure should be on the weed and there should be a .050" gap around the bud, still giving you your full psi on the bud.

My thinking anyways.. only when your puck is 2" x 2" will you be down to 2500psi

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I wasn't taking into consideration the size of the bud. That's a good point. So maybe the dnail press will work okay since it will have about 2,000 psi on a 1" puck of herb.

Still, it still seems like the real pressure needed for those cooler temp presses comes from a vise setup.

I wonder how much lower temperature can be used at 10,000 psi compared to 2,000 psi to obtain the same yield. I'll be comparing that if no one beats me to it

BoogerMan said:

That's definitely a nice setup for the price. Especially if you already have an enail and compressor.

The only thing is, isn't a 150 psi air compressor going to be fairly loud? I wouldn't mind but that may cause problems for others.

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It can't be much worse than my vac pump, though in my brief searching there are some rated at 75dB which isn't too bad. Wouldn't have to run all the time either since it draws the air from a tank. Luckily it's looking like there will be an option to suit everyone's needs in the end which I think is pretty cool. For me the Mr. Rosin hits most of the things I want in a press compared to what's come so far: low weight, not manual, holds the press by itself, decent pressure and most importantly under $1000CAN. Quick estimate gives the press a minimum 636 PSI for a 2" patty.

Here's a brief IG video of the Mr. Rosin Press, looks like 20% yield from a bud press. I have trouble breaking 15% with QWET so this could actually pay for itself in a reasonable amount of time especially with prices where they are here right now.

https://instagram.com/p/8ynRrsnGAe/

Hmm

well, that might look like 20% but I am willing to bet at least 5%, if not more, was evaporated during the process.

Furthermore, that oil is loaded with impurities.

Also, the video has clearly been edited. Why? How long was the actual press and how long? Cannot see that from the video.

And I would like to see them collect it and put it on the scale...realtime. Just doubting if this technique will ever lend itself to doing much more then personal runs? Which I think is a very good thing by the way....

Sure hope it does not seem like I want to spoil the party. Just want to get the facts straigth, and it seems like the people publishing these things are all in the business so to speak and have benefits from spreading this ´word´ around. I am trying to get a grip on this technique, but am not totally convinced yet.

Could we possibly use cold/warm for collecting? Does a cold dabber make collecting easier, or is it easier when the dabber is warmer? Could we possibly benefit from knowing if the oil is more likely to stick to cold or warm surfaces?

The stacking mentioned earlier seems to work. The hardest part in collecting for now seems to be to get all those tiny bits together. As soon as a decent blob is formed collecting goes a lot easier I find, stacking helps to achieve this.

How about cnc-ing a single ´stamp´ that fits so closely that it will force al the oil to it´s outside( cup shaped with upstanding, or down, rims), where one can collect it? It is easy to see the oil wants to escape from the heat/pressure, so some channels to guide it to where we want it to go might be a good idea too? Make it possible to connect it to an enail coil and attach it to a vice?

tepictoton said:

ll, that might look like 20% but I am willing to bet at least 5%, if not more, was evaporated during the process.

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Yup, for every 3.5g I squish, I loose .3 in evaporation with boveda 62%

Warm ( hand heat) dabber works better than a cold dabber.

Monsoon said:

Cool, let us know. I'm super tempted to order one but I want to know how much extra a compressor will add to the price first. He did mention on IG that this is more of a teaser and he'll have proper videos and photos up within a few days.

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Will do. He called me yesterday but didn't have too much time. I think he'll be calling me back in the next day or two so as soon as I learn more, especially regarding the air compressor, I'll be sure to share.

Yeah, the compressor will definitely be louder than a hair straightener, heh. If it can handle medium-to-large personal batches though I would probably use it so infrequently that it wouldn't bother me really. We'll see what he says.

tepictoton said:

How about cnc-ing a single ´stamp´ that fits so closely that it will force al the oil to it´s outside( cup shaped with upstanding, or down, rims), where one can collect it? It is easy to see the oil wants to escape from the heat/pressure, so some channels to guide it to where we want it to go might be a good idea too? Make it possible to connect it to an enail coil and attach it to a vice?

Click to expand...

I've thought about the shaped stamp, and it seem that even if the puck depression were very shallow, the places where the puck didn't completely fill it would pool with rosin, and there could be more loss than with flat plates.

The only idea I've come up with as a way to apply pressure more universally and increase yield, is to use a conforming press surface. It would ideally be a hemispherical suface, so the pressure would be applied to the center of the chip first, and then would squeeze rosin from the edges of the chip as the pressure is increased. I think this would reduce the amount of rosin that collects around the edges of the puck, because the center of the chip is thicker than the edges and a flat rigid plate cannot create pressure there.

Unfortunately, the only thing I've found so far that could be used for this technique is a regulation baseball, and it would need to be heated in an oven to get it up to temp.

Here's an image of a baseball under pressure:



And here's a chart showing how a baseball reacts to force. It seems to be about ideal for the pressures we're using.

shark sandwich said:

I've thought about the shaped stamp, and it seem that even if the puck depression were very shallow, the places where the puck didn't completely fill it would pool with rosin, and there could be more loss than with flat plates.

The only idea I've come up with as a way to apply pressure more universally and increase yield, is to use a conforming press surface. It would ideally be a hemispherical suface, so the pressure would be applied to the center of the chip first, and then would squeeze rosin from the edges of the chip as the pressure is increased. I think this would reduce the amount of rosin that collects around the edges of the puck, because the center of the chip is thicker than the edges and a flat rigid plate cannot create pressure there.

Unfortunately, the only thing I've found so far that could be used for this technique is a regulation baseball, and it would need to be heated in an oven to get it up to temp.

Here's an image of a baseball under pressure:

And here's a chart showing how a baseball reacts to force. It seems to be about ideal for the pressures we're using.

Click to expand...

I gotta give it to you man, baseball squishing is much more manly than a hair straightener