Custom Copper Nickel Vise and Arbor Jaws For Rosin Tech.

@EpicNameGuy
I use an Arbor press at work with a 4' pipe wrench and I don't like hanging off of it personally.

With a vise, I can crank it down with one hand and let go, and then pay attention to the oil.

Depending on what size vise or press you get, that will help me give you a fair price.

Edit, I can't see me making blocks any bigger than 2" x 2" or using 2" round bar as there are others already making larger blocks out there.

Yeah I'm seeing many liking the vice tech in general. I'd prefer to be able to press a decent amount at once though so without being invested in any hardware yet, I'm trying to evaluate the best investment.

Since I'm not invested in anything yet, if you have a vice of preference to mate with the blocks, I'd probably be inclined to go in a direction you've already been vs pick one myself and get a custom design.

I assume vice-to-vice there isn't much variation but seeing as how I've used a vice maybe 10 times in my life, I'm probably wrong on that.

Any guidance or input is always appreciated!

Well, that is a tough question as not all vises are equal, but most I think the screw thread is similar and the pressures should be similar.

My fear right now is that there may be more flex to some vises than others and if I make my blocks flat, there may be a gap at the bottom or top of the blocks effectively making the useful squish area much smaller. Nothing a file or shims can't fix.

My vise weighs 70 lbs and the movable jaw is dovetailed to minimize any flex.

This is not an issue for the Arbor press.

I can't see this being a huge deal on most vises, but I could be wrong.

I will look around.

I have a vise job pending now, so I hope to learn more soon about 4" vises and flexing.

edit: I can see building in a pin in the base of one block as a hinge on the movable jaw. This, I believe would force the blocks flush to each other every time, no matter how much flex was in the vise.. If that makes any sense?

Edit2: This is why I am partial to JB weld jaws for smaller vises. Once it's tight, they should be flat to each other, once the JB weld is fully cured.

Edit3: A milling type vise like this would be ideal as for every 1 lb of clamping force, there is 1/2 lb of pressure pulling the movable jaw into the base, keeping it square within .002"...

Edit4: Based on the makers claims and the way these vises are built, I believe they can reach the highest pressures of any vises out there, while remaining true/no flex. It might be overkill though... I kinda like overkill...

Edit5: @EpicNameGuy The most I press is 1g at a time with my setup and even then, my yields are better with smaller .5g chunks. The more flower, the more pressure needed, it seems..

the small 3.5" wide jaws on my pony vise are dovetail. this really makes a strong vise. ive thrown this pony vise and all it did was break other things and scratch the paint. its a beast at like 10 15 lbs weight.

I dont like the arbor press personally because I dont want to have my physical effort involved in the pressing or rather have it involved as little as possible. and arbor press you have to hold pressure. when I use the vise tech I just set it and forget it... walk away... have a vape... as long as the plates are small enough to be able to push rosin out away from heat quickly... its a hands free process after the vise is locked in place.

I was even considering a heavy duty cast iron C clamp too. but I couldnt find the screw boot for it...

I considered a bottle jack and frame but the whole setup is rather custom and a vise does the same thing in less space.

Got my plates today, thanks @Joel W. !!
You guys are starting to sway me from getting the arbor press...I had a plan but now not so sure.

CrazyDiamond said:

Got my plates today, thanks @Joel W. !!
You guys are starting to sway me from getting the arbor press...I had a plan but now not so sure.

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Glad you got them! Those blocks should work well in a vise or on an arbor press. I was not trying to steer anyone in any directions but I felt there is some risk here for me with flexing vises causing gaps.

When I said I was hanging off my arbor press, I was pressing parts for work, not making rosin at work, lol

I have never made rosin with an arbor press yet. Good luck sir!

farscaper said:

as long as the plates are small enough to be able to push rosin out away from heat quickly

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this. this is why i dont see a device able to process a lot at once. and still get really good returns. obviously it can be done, but it seems, from what ive gathered in the threads here is that you want small plates so the oil can escape quickly. the less real estate the oil has contact with the better. that is why i see large plates not being as efficient as smaller plates. or having the ability to produce a tastier return vs small plates. the problem with small plates...? it will take quite some time to run quantity. sucks i know, but still way faster than a solvent based extraction.

Fitting up some 4" glue in jaws to test.

The boss is letting me purchase a small vise to fit theses to, so I will have a complete package for sale soon.

I am actually quite happy with how they come together.

I have been looking at vises online and at the stores for the last few days and I am just not impressed with basic vises. There is just too much slop or play in them and so I am back to looking at the milling vises.

I found one from bolton tools. They have had this vise made for them overseas for the last 4 years. I called them and they do not know the exact clamping force of this vice but they say it is comparable to the more expensive name brands like Kurt.

Bolton tools (Caliornia) wants $79 plus $19 shipping from their web site or they have it on amazon for $89 prime 2 day delivery.

They also have it on ebay for $89 free shipping.

5" jaws, 15 inches long and 28-40 lbs. I just ordered one to test but I think this is a no brainer if you are looking for a serious rosin vise...

I decided to go with a regular vise instead of arbor press...didn't like the idea of having to hold the arm to keep pressure. Just got the $30 Irwin 4.5 inch...haven't constructed anything yet and its returnable if there is a better solution. But I think I may just stick with what I have.

Let us know how they work or if I can help.


Also, I will have a limited amount of 2" cuni round bar in stock next week.

Edit: 2 of these digital soldering irons would make dialing in temps, very easy.

Oh great, now you show those soldering irons...hehe, just messing with ya...ours are adjustable...just got spend the time and find the sweet spot

I just picked up 2 of those digital soldering irons

I'm waiting for Joel's approval on the Bolton tools vise. If it's a good one I'll be getting that and a nice set of jaws to bring it all together

Btw, I'm sure I missed it somewhere, but how do you attach the soldering irons to the blocks? Do you just jb weld the irons into the holes on the block or what?

BoogerMan said:

how do you attach the soldering irons to the blocks? Do you just jb weld the irons into the holes on the block or what?

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The soldering irons are just slipped into the holes. No glue needed to hold them in place. They are a snug fit.

I got my Bolton vise in today.

I am impressed with it for the price. It is no Kurt vise for sure but the design seems solid enough. I will take the swivel base off and get a good handle (it's crap) for it.

The threads are what I was most concerned about but they look square cut and stout. I foresee no issues with this vise making good rosin. . I just set my old jaws in for scale comparisons.

Joel W. said:

The soldering irons are just slipped into the holes. No glue needed to hold them in place. They are a snug fit.

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Awesome thanks! I like that a lot. Makes it easy to take apart and store or take on a trip

Joel W. said:

I got my Bolton vise in today.

I am impressed with it for the price. It is no Kurt vise for sure but the design seems solid enough. I will take the swivel base off and get a good handle (it's crap) for it.

The threads are what I was most concerned about but they look square cut and stout. I foresee no issues with this vise making good rosin. . I just set my old jaws in for scale comparisons.

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Yessss! Let us know how you like it? My soldering irons shipped today so they should be here next week.

Where can you get a better handle? Or are you just going to make one? Is the handle crap because it is so short?

On another note, I got my 2"x2" cuni plates in today for the d-nail heat press thank you again, they look great! Now I just need the press to get here lol. Maybe this week

BoogerMan said:

Yessss! Let us know how you like it? My soldering irons shipped today so they should be here next week.

Where can you get a better handle? Or are you just going to make one? Is the handle crap because it is so short?

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The handle is short and the edges are a bit sharp on the hand. I have a 5/8th craftsman 8 point socket part number 44224 that is made for square bolt/nuts. The socket will allow me to use a large 1/2" drive ratchet or a torque wench for more leverage with repeatable pressures.

The vise was a bit rough opening at first and it needs grease on the threads and any parts that slide together. Once lubed up, it is very very smooth.

Glad you got your test plates. I think giving the rosin a place to go from the heat is worth trying anyways.

Joel W. said:

The handle is short and the edges are a bit sharp on the hand. I have a 5/8th craftsman 8 point socket part number 44224 that is made for square bolt/nuts. The socket will allow me to use a large 1/2" drive ratchet or a torque wench for more leverage with repeatable pressures.

The vise was a bit rough opening at first and it needs grease on the threads and any parts that slide together. Once lubed up, it is very very smooth.

Glad you got your test plates. I think giving the rosin a place to go from the heat is worth trying anyways.

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Sweet thanks for the info!

I have a 5/8" socket but I think it is 12 point. If it doesn't work I can stop at the hardware store to buy an 8 point or even an exact square one if they make it?

I have a 1/2" drive ratchet but I think I want to get something more specific only for this setup.

I found these two 1/2" torque wrenches on Amazon. They look really nice (from pics/video).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1445087275&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1445087275&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

However, I know nothing about torque wrenches.

So should I get the $39 10-150 ft/lb Or for $59 the 25-250 ft/lb?

Thanks!

@BoogerMan

I don't think a standard 5/8th-12 point socket will fit but they might have one at the hardware store

I would go with the cheaper torque wrench as I really don't think we will be any where close to 150lbs of torque for rosin

Here is the same socket in another brand
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5420...445091004&sr=8-20&keywords=5/8"+square+socket

FFS I wish life could stop getting in my way so I can get myself an epic vise/vice/weiss (good to hedge your bets when you're not sure on proper nomenclature lol) setup. @Joel W. you've come such a long way (hell, we all have!) since we first were acquainted and shooting the shit about solvent extraction. This thread buzzing along is great to see, couldn't happen to a better dude!

I think that the 2x2" setup with the rosin squishing away from the heat is really the best home setup idea so far. I think we will see this principle incorporated more broadly in the future, those accordion style presses seem to be good for this purpose!

@Joel W. do you think it would be better to get a 4, 5 or 6" milling vise if each option is available?

@herbivore21 My on this was to go as inexpensive as I could but have a big enough opening to fit the plates + blocks of wood on the plates. Once I recieved the plates from @Joel W. , I measured them with the wood on both sides so I knew how much of a gap would be needed. I found a light duty 4.5 inch Irwin vise at Lowe's for around $30 US. Yes the closing force isn't huge, but I don't believe it needs to be (meaning, I think it will apply enough force to do low temp, long press times).

@Joel W. , what do you have the dials on the irons set to ballpark?

My lazy ass just JB welded the wood to the plates...tomorrow JB weld to the vise.

herbivore21 said:

@Joel W. do you think it would be better to get a 4, 5 or 6" milling vise if each option is available?

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Well, I was playing with the 5" Bolton vise i posted above this weekend and after bolting it to the bench, I was able to torque the steel stock jaws to 100 ft pounds and it survived it just fine.. I really don't see the need to go over 40 ft pounds of torque when squishing 1/2 gram at a time. The rosin starts flowing at about 30 ft pounds of torque and taking it to 40ftlbs really does not seem to help much more.

So, I really don't think there is a huge difference between a 4" and a 6" inch milling vise as rosin is concerned. It is much easier to squish 1/2g and keep it all in the jaws compared to squishing 1.g and hoping it does not squish out to one side of the jaws..

Also, I notice when trying to squish larger amounts, it tends to put more stress on the parchment and I think it can actually move or stretch the paper from the middle, to the outer edges.

If I keep it to 1/2g or so, the parchment looks perfect afterwards.

Thanks for the kind words Sir!

@CrazyDiamond I agree there should be enough pressure and I think the blocks should work for you with that vise. Sending positive thoughts that way anyways..

I would try setting the irons about 3/4 way or so and see where it comes up to after a half hour or so, Those blocks are small and they should heat up quickly..

I got some 2" Copper Nickel 90/10 round bar in stock now. It looks to be a good fit for my pucks.

Joel W. said:

I got some 2" Copper Nickel 90/10 round bar in stock now. It looks to be a good fit for my pucks.

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That looks perfect! I can't wait for a round puck setup if only those damn soldering irons would get here faster

Was that a 0.5g nug or a 1g?

BoogerMan said:

Was that a 0.5g bug or a 1g?

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.

That one is several pucks in one and weighs 1.8 g ( very thick).

I have several single pucks that are bigger and they started out as a gram like this one (very thin).