Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

2clicker

Observer
I'm assuming you used a drill to make it?

yes in used a drill to make the clapton. then when wrapping that to its finished coil i wrapped it on a rod (screwdriver shaft) that was slightly smaller than the OD of the FC-2000. this was because when i wrapped it on soemthing the same size as the FC that when removed it sprung open and did not stay as tight. so it needed to be wrapped tighter so that when it springs open... that is springs open to the size of the FC... make sense?
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Huge fan of my AC cart paired with the evic tc40. I agree the AC is a very well built item and hits like a train
Does it work well with temp control? Do you use the stock wire or did you put something else in there? I pretty much just want one for my kiss ac dual coils. I've been searching the thread but most of the posts seem to be about rebuilt ones and I'm not interested in doing that. I have a 601 kiss ac, but I was going to grab the $15 globe only version in 510 to try tc with.
 
StormyPinkness,

2clicker

Observer
How much are folks getting cheap (ish) reliable drills for? What should I be looking for? I think it's time to take this advanced shit to the next level!

i was thinking about your question... you know those electric screwdrivers? the slim ones? anyway, i would imagine that a bit could be modded to hold wire. could probably use one of those. just thinking out loud.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
the only real requirement for a drill is that it have a clamping chuck.

you will need the clamping chuck.

I modded a cheap power screwdriver by using a piece of square dowel as a plug cause it had one of the hex slip chucks. it had a tendency to cause kinks because of how the wire spun around.

you will want a clamping chuck on your drill... but any cheap drill will work for twisting wire.

I use a black and decker 2 speed.
 

gladthaturaglide

Active Member
Just wanted to say HI!

I'm a pretty experienced vaper and am thrilled to have found a group of people actively thinking up new ways to vape oil via RDA's. I've attempted numerous set-ups on my own over the past year or so and just eventually settled for one of the Seego disposable set-ups until i could find more info out. This is the info I've been searching for.

Couple of quick things, I've done a fairly thorough read through of roughly the last 15 pages. It seems most of you have dropped Nickel wire in favor of Ti and I totally understand your reasoning. I knew nickel could release gases but thought it was safe unless it got too hot and I never even considered dry burning a real danger when it came to that but it makes sense. My question is to the people that also vape Nicotine juice. Have you guys completely bailed on Nickel wire all together in favor of Ti all across the board, or have you just given up on it when vaping oil due to the fact that dry burns are probably going to happen to an extent when vaping the solid oil vs. a liquid juice? Do you guys still deem Nickel wire fairly safe as far as using it with juice and its constantly saturated with no dry burn? Which Ti grade has been deemed the group favorite and do any of you have a safe reliable online source you can share with me. I live in a small town and the vape shops here don't even carry nickel yet so I doubt they have Ti. Haha. Also, I use a mod that has the Sx350 J chip in it and I def. has the DBW feature, was wondering if anyone else has a mod with this chip in it and has used one of the Divine tribe 2.5 atty's on it in TC mode. Did it work or did you still get the DBW?
 

doubledown

Well-Known Member
Just bought an EVIC VTC over the weekend then found you guys over here talking about mods and builds for concentrates. Sweet! Reading with interest. Also @gladthaturaglide, good first post. I have some of those same questions :)
 
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2clicker

Observer
For those of you trying out the claptons, check this out:

Easy peazy!

holy shit!

Just bought an EVIC VTC over the weekend then found you guys over here talking about mods and builds for concentrates. Sweet! Reading with interest. Also @gladthaturaglide, good first post. I have some of those same questions :)

you are gonna love that VTC

EDIT* vaperoyalty.com has a sale on the VTC going right now.

http://www.vaperoyalty.com/joyetech-evic-vtc-mini-mod-black/

use coupon code "EVICSPECIAL" to get this at $41.95 shipped! great price on a great mod and ships from the US.
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
I have dropped all 3 of my KangXins so many times now, with a big Kayfun V4 creating a lever effect, that, beside the dinged-up floor, one of them finally ended up with a bent top plate. The metal is so thick and strong that after undoing the 2 screws that hold it on I was able to straighten it with a vise and a big pair of pliers. Doesn't show any sign of it.

This is by far the best-made vape device I've ever used, and I've owned many including a Provari. I have zero connection with these people, but anybody who's looking for a good TC device, Paypal them $38 and in 2-3 weeks you'll be impressed. The single "nickel" TC curve is good enough, in reality none of the TC devices are laboratory accurate. If you want to use Titanium or Stainless Steel, you just offset the target temp and it works fine. As far as firmware upgrades on a $50 battery unit, I wouldn't expect a lot ;-)
 

2clicker

Observer
I have dropped all 3 of my KangXins so many times now, with a big Kayfun V4 creating a lever effect, that, beside the dinged-up floor, one of them finally ended up with a bent top plate. The metal is so thick and strong that after undoing the 2 screws that hold it on I was able to straighten it with a vise and a big pair of pliers. Doesn't show any sign of it.

This is by far the best-made vape device I've ever used, and I've owned many including a Provari. I have zero connection with these people, but anybody who's looking for a good TC device, Paypal them $38 and in 2-3 weeks you'll be impressed. The single "nickel" TC curve is good enough, in reality none of the TC devices are laboratory accurate. If you want to use Titanium or Stainless Steel, you just offset the target temp and it works fine. As far as firmware upgrades on a $50 battery unit, I wouldn't expect a lot ;-)

i just updated my VTC last friday. it was super easy and added a voltage readout as well as real time resistance monitoring. so nothing really great but its been out for two weeks and the first update is solid. im hoping for a SS TC mode update at some point. this mod cost me $45 shipped from the US.

oh and the update is for mac or PC. most of these updates from MFGs are for windows only so a mac update was a welcomed surprise! took about 5 mins and was very easy.
 

Darb

Well-Known Member
Finally got some TI wire and FC2000 wicks.
What size coils hold the 1/8" fc2000 wick properly?
I'm thinking wrapping around a 1/8" drill bit would be too big?
 
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2clicker

Observer
Finally got some TI wire and FC2000 wicks.
What size coils hold the 1/8" fc2000 wick properly?
I'm thinking wrapping around a 1/8" drill bit would be too big?

i just found something about the same size at home. a small screwdriver shaft worked for me. i never measured it.
 
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ixtapa

Well-Known Member
Experienced e-cig user who will be getting wax soon for the first time. Been reading up here (I've gone back to around page 70 so far) and have a theoretical question.

It appears that using a coil alone with wax is a no-go since it will lose product through dripping to the chamber floor, thus the necessity for a "wick". I say "wick" since the role here when dabbing is not to draw product from elsewhere to the coil as with liquid, but rather to soak up the drippings and ideally change them into secondary vapor (primary vapor coming from the product on the coil itself). The "wick" when dabbing seems more like a overflow reservoir.

It seems that ideally this "wick" would be non-combustible, otherwise some product could be irretrievably lost to the innards of say a roll of cotton. This explains the popularity of the ceramic "wick" here over the last dozen pages.

Given all the above is true, why has steel mesh fallen out of favor (based off the last dozen pages)? What is the big advantage in using ceramic over steel mesh?
 
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jpdnkstr

Well-Known Member
I had success with SS mesh rolled up. The ceramic is easier, no oxidizing, no rolling, cutting, etc. Flavor is as good, if not better with the ceramic. FWIW I still have 1 RDA setup with SS mesh and Ni200, just because it still works fine, flavor is on par with my ceramic/Ti gr1 setup, so I will run the SS setup until there is an issue with it, or I get bored and switch it to ceramic.
 
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arrr

Well-Known Member
Wondering what you guys the think the best temperature contol mod is. Also is there any benefit to get one that takes batteries (VTC) or one with a battery in it (eleaf). Does the eleaf battery take longer to heat up?
 
arrr,

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
Still rocking my evic vt. I can get a week out of a full charge so a replaceable battery is not an issue for me. 3 weeks now with my latest build using dewaxed rosin and no buildup on the coils yet. I can't even remember the last time I burnt my oil. Temp control rules!! :rockon:
 
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2clicker

Observer
Experienced e-cig user who will be getting wax soon for the first time. Been reading up here (I've gone back to around page 70 so far) and have a theoretical question.

It appears that using a coil alone with wax is a no-go since it will lose product through dripping to the chamber floor, thus the necessity for a "wick". I say "wick" since the role here when dabbing is not to draw product from elsewhere to the coil as with liquid, but rather to soak up the drippings and ideally change them into secondary vapor (primary vapor coming from the product on the coil itself). The "wick" when dabbing seems more like a overflow reservoir.

It seems that ideally this "wick" would be non-combustible, otherwise some product could be irretrievably lost to the innards of say a roll of cotton. This explains the popularity of the ceramic "wick" here over the last dozen pages.

Given all the above is true, why has steel mesh fallen out of favor (based off the last dozen pages)? What is the big advantage in using ceramic over steel mesh?

yep. the wick is basically holding what would normally drip off onto the deck. and the ceramic wick will heat with the coil so that it will also vape the oil inside it. mesh will work as well, but still have never had a SS mesh wick taste good. regardless i have a new build idea... well i actually did build it and rip it, but because i was using questionable wire i only used it once.

anyway the new build is a course wrapped clapton, like my last build in here, but instead of a ceramic wick inside... its wrapped over another TI coil. so basically you make a standard micro coil 2-3mm, but ensure the coils are all touching leaving no space between them. ill call this the "solid" coil. then take your clapton'd wire and wrap it around the solid coil, but this time leave just a lil bit of space between the wraps. then simply twist your leads together. now depending on what RDA you are using will determine the length of your coil. my stubby allows for me to mount a 1/2" long version of this into my RDA. just like my last pics.

anyway, the resulting hit is nuts. what is happening is you stick your dab on the coil. when it heats the oil soaks into all the nooks and crannies of the claption around the solid coil, but nothing gets into the solid coil. all the oil stays hiding between the two coils and in all the small spaces created by the clapton wrap. then when you fire it you are firing the solid coil and the clapton coil. more temp controlled surface area = more vapor sooner. this build is the closest if have come to a true dab. it vapes the dab VERY FAST and with temp control.. your flavor is amazing.

unfortunately like i said i used some of the Unkamen Ti wire i received some time back. i was hesitant to use it because i cannot get it clean down to a "silver" color. it was a red/orange and i was not good with that. well i built one anyway and dry fired it at 500F. it off gassed for about a min before it stopped. i knew then that this wire was not suitable, but i just had to try the coil. so i loaded up a dab and wow. instant vape. it milked the glass in 1 second. it bit my ass too cuz i was on the ground coughing like a bitch! lol im going to be ordering more wire soon and will be back to this coil. but my rosin press i next.

Wondering what you guys the think the best temperature contol mod is. Also is there any benefit to get one that takes batteries (VTC) or one with a battery in it (eleaf). Does the eleaf battery take longer to heat up?

the benefit of the VTC over the VT are negligible to some. in my case i simply wanted a smaller footprint. as Joel stats the VT provides plenty of vape time for this use. if you are ecigging with this device as well then it may be more important to get a unit that allows you to swap your cell. this way you can be charging cells while you are using the device (if needed of course). both of these devices work very well for TC dabbing IME. oh there are a couple of other differences... the VTC has upgradeable firmware and has the full range of 1-60Watts in TC mode.

there are quite few great options nowadays with even more popping up weekly. @fernand is really enjoying his kangzin Mini XF and the invader if im not mistaken. you will also see models coming with TC mode for vaping with SS wire as well.

3 weeks now with my latest build using dewaxed rosin and no buildup on the coils yet. I can't even remember the last time I burnt my oil. Temp control rules!! :rockon:

good shit! i cant wait to start using rosin and see how much kinder it is to my coils!
 

ixtapa

Well-Known Member
anyway the new build is a course wrapped clapton, like my last build in here, but instead of a ceramic wick inside... its wrapped over another TI coil. so basically you make a standard micro coil 2-3mm, but ensure the coils are all touching leaving no space between them. ill call this the "solid" coil. then take your clapton'd wire and wrap it around the solid coil, but this time leave just a lil bit of space between the wraps. then simply twist your leads together. now depending on what RDA you are using will determine the length of your coil. my stubby allows for me to mount a 1/2" long version of this into my RDA. just like my last pics.

anyway, the resulting hit is nuts. what is happening is you stick your dab on the coil. when it heats the oil soaks into all the nooks and crannies of the claption around the solid coil, but nothing gets into the solid coil. all the oil stays hiding between the two coils and in all the small spaces created by the clapton wrap. then when you fire it you are firing the solid coil and the clapton coil. more temp controlled surface area = more vapor sooner. this build is the closest if have come to a true dab. it vapes the dab VERY FAST and with temp control.. your flavor is amazing.

Yes. Absolutely yes. Take advantage of the oil's surface tension to keep it in adhesion to BOTH heating elements. Since your interior is powered, this is now all primary vapor. Fantastic idea.

Taking the thought a little further, what about a thin titanium tube ca. 2mm x just shy of platform width. Wrap clapton tightly around one end, then more loosely in the middle ca. 3mm, then tightly again at the other end. You could even tie it off at the ends with a little wire to ensure the tube sits in place. In my head these are running in parallel so the resistance might not get so high as to disallow TC.

The obvious problem would be sourcing titanium grade 1 tubing. I am guessing that it would have to be precut to length given the presumed difficulty of cutting titanium at home. But if TC wasn't a requirement, other tubes could be explored, like a blunt syringe tip... But from a theoretical standpoint TC seems to be non-negotiable.

The next thing you have me thinking about are braids and knots (especially with claptons). You could create a weave with a tremendous number of holes (aka surface area) in a very small volume. As a very simple case, take three claptons and braid them tightly together. This forms the inner cylinder. Then wrap a coil around this, tight loose tight as above. But there are much more interesting ways to make that inner cylinder - the next thing I'd try would be a series of half knots to make something like this,

maxresdefault.jpg


let alone more sophisticated chinese finger trap type weaves. Omg lots to explore here. A clapton of claptons of claptons, each successive layer twisted in the opposite direction!!!

In any case, I think (and it sounds like you may too) that the concept of the "wick" really needs to be reevaluated. It seems that the generally accepted idea is a carry over from nic-juice that does not translate into dabbing. I think the goal of the center of the heating apparatus is twofold: lots and lots of holes to collect oil, and some power to heat that oil directly, rather than just sitting there like a dead wick.

I think I have a very fun time coming mid next week once my supplies are in.

PS - back in the day I twisted together very long strands of toilet paper to make a surprisingly strong rope on a lark. My stoner friends made fun of my project. Little did they know I was just in training...
 

2clicker

Observer
Yes. Absolutely yes. Take advantage of the oil's surface tension to keep it in adhesion to BOTH heating elements. Since your interior is powered, this is now all primary vapor. Fantastic idea.

Taking the thought a little further, what about a thin titanium tube ca. 2mm x just shy of platform width. Wrap clapton tightly around one end, then more loosely in the middle ca. 3mm, then tightly again at the other end. You could even tie it off at the ends with a little wire to ensure the tube sits in place. In my head these are running in parallel so the resistance might not get so high as to disallow TC.

The obvious problem would be sourcing titanium grade 1 tubing. I am guessing that it would have to be precut to length given the presumed difficulty of cutting titanium at home. But if TC wasn't a requirement, other tubes could be explored, like a blunt syringe tip... But from a theoretical standpoint TC seems to be non-negotiable.

The next thing you have me thinking about are braids and knots (especially with claptons). You could create a weave with a tremendous number of holes (aka surface area) in a very small volume. As a very simple case, take three claptons and braid them tightly together. This forms the inner cylinder. Then wrap a coil around this, tight loose tight as above. But there are much more interesting ways to make that inner cylinder - the next thing I'd try would be a series of half knots to make something like this,

maxresdefault.jpg


let alone more sophisticated chinese finger trap type weaves. Omg lots to explore here. A clapton of claptons of claptons, each successive layer twisted in the opposite direction!!!

In any case, I think (and it sounds like you may too) that the concept of the "wick" really needs to be reevaluated. It seems that the generally accepted idea is a carry over from nic-juice that does not translate into dabbing. I think the goal of the center of the heating apparatus is twofold: lots and lots of holes to collect oil, and some power to heat that oil directly, rather than just sitting there like a dead wick.

I think I have a very fun time coming mid next week once my supplies are in.

PS - back in the day I twisted together very long strands of toilet paper to make a surprisingly strong rope on a lark. My stoner friends made fun of my project. Little did they know I was just in training...

nice post and thanks for the kind words! my main goal for a coil is one that can hold a large dab and actually vape the entire dab instead of losing any or it being stuck in a wick until the temps can be raised. so basically i load a dab, and it vapes until its gone. no loss and no wait. oh and flavor has to be there also.

my current build is the clapton around the FC-2000 wick and while it does vape very well... part of the dab makes its way into the porous wick. so now in order for the oil in the wick to vape the temp of the wire must be raised to heat the FC-2000 enough. of which is fine for now because i just wait until the end of the day and turn it up and get that oil in the wick. flavor is long gone, but its very medicating and still not burning. but if i can avoid that by building a coil described above then im all over it.

regarding using 3 claptons to make the inner coil for one of these builds... the only problem i see is when you twist all of the leads together. you are going to have a very large OD lead. you will likely be hard pressed to find an RDA that can accept such a large lead. in fact when i did my build the leads were already too large for my stumpy. i had to smash them after twisting to flatten them. then they fit, but my plan is to use 30 or 32g wire to wrap around 28g wire to construct the clapton. the inner core coil or "solid" coil will be 28g. so already im twisting two 28g wires and one 30/32g wire together.

also i know the idea of even more claptons being used is appealing because it will provide more surface area to vape off of, but my build already handled a large dab. just sounds like a bit overkill. not to mention a ton of work. then again this is all speculation. braiding claptons and then wrapping the braid in a clapton sounds gnarly. and it would probably be gorgeous/interesting to look at. oh and i really like your idea of having the outer coil tight on the ends, but sorta loose in the middle. providing just a tad more real estate for oil to camp out until it hits the wire.

i need to find a good source for Ti wire. i like the spidersilk, but not its prices. and i just cannot use this unkemen stuff. any suggestions?
 
2clicker,

ixtapa

Well-Known Member
i need to find a good source for Ti wire. i like the spidersilk, but not its prices. and i just cannot use this unkemen stuff. any suggestions?
None. My guess is that creating titanium wire is not easy, hence the crap on the wire when you get it - probably not an issue for industrial use. If spidersilk is clean, maybe you are paying extra for them to make it so. I ordered from some random; will let you know if it is clean. I doubt it will be. My plan is to nuke it with a butane torch, soak it in isopropyl, and repeat as necessary. The temperature for harmful oxidation into TiO2 is 600C if I recall correctly, well beyond what I will be giving it with my torch. Hopefully this process will burn off/vaporize/dissolve any adulterants. If it's still an issue, I'll take some burly sandpaper to it and literally scrape the crap off off.
my main goal for a coil is one that can hold a large dab and actually vape the entire dab instead of losing any or it being stuck in a wick until the temps can be raised. so basically i load a dab, and it vapes until its gone. no loss and no wait. oh and flavor has to be there also.

my current build is the clapton around the FC-2000 wick and while it does vape very well... part of the dab makes its way into the porous wick. so now in order for the oil in the wick to vape the temp of the wire must be raised to heat the FC-2000 enough. of which is fine for now because i just wait until the end of the day and turn it up and get that oil in the wick. flavor is long gone, but its very medicating and still not burning. but if i can avoid that by building a coil described above then im all over it.
I'm with you 100%. Your cylinder within a coil solution is excellent. If you are having trouble with too many leads into the Stumpy, I had a thought. Build your inner coil as per usual with leads on either end. Take your clapton and uncoil a bit. Now wrap this bit around a lead from your cylinder until it is snug. From there coil the remaining intact clapton around your cylinder as you wish. When you get to the other end, snip the clapton a little long, uncoil a bit, and fix it to the other lead. Now you have a single lead for each post, so no need for mashing. In my head, this will heat from the inside out, which I think is a good thing.

just sounds like a bit overkill. not to mention a ton of work. then again this is all speculation.
You think you're speculating? I've never even dabbed before! At this stage this all a thought experiment for me!!!

That said, I had another realization. The idea behind using an outer coil is itself an artifact of using e-juice and wicks. My theoretical conceptualization of an ideal build (for the present moment) is a dense weave maybe 3mm in diameter - and no outer coil! It would be superfluous if the weave was powered. Now the practicality creating several such weaves over time is questionable. But I would like to try at least a few to test my theories. The learning process should land me on a happy medium. Your build is awesome - the best I've heard of in the wild; I just want to play with chasing "perfect".

To be honest, my first build attempt (if I can pull it off) is probably going to be ss mesh rolled fairly tightly to around 3.5mm, and that's it. No coil. I want heat through a high surface area, and using mesh by itself would do it! That said, even if the resistance is acceptable (it may not be feasible), this rules out TC. If that's a no go, I'll go titanium coil around a ss mesh "wick" to get me going while I start playing with weaves. I appreciate your comment about too many leads to fit - I have a few ideas for workarounds, one of which I mentioned above. I will certainly be posting my builds when I get them done - both successes and failures. On that note, I'd love a pic of your inner cylinder build, or version 2.0 when it comes to be.
 
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2clicker

Observer
I will certainly be posting my builds when I get them done - both successes and failures. On that note, I'd love a pic of your inner cylinder build, or version 2.0 when it comes to be.

welcome aboard. looking forward to it. and i will absolutely post pics when the wire arrives and get the build done.
 
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