Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless
- Thread starter darkrom
- Start date
Monsoon
Well-Known Member
What has me most interested in this one is that being in Canada the shipping should be much less.
CrazyDiamond
Crosseyed & Painless
As @farscaper said, I can attest to thicker PTFE being a no go. I put iso/oil mix in a PTFE bowl that had some flex to it. Could not get the purged oil to come out of the bowl at all.
Hoosier
Well-Known Member
Anyone here use rosin for cooking purposes yet? Made some gummi from a bho recipe recently and was very happy with the results. Basically, just mixed rosin with equal amt coconut oil and a little lethcin decarbed in oven, and added mixture to melted gummi bears, and placed in mold/cooled. Math looked to be slightly less than 10mg rosin per gummy, but two bears had a very nice effect.
2clicker
Observer
what i dont like about the presses currently available is that because of the plates size... the oil cannot escape the heat until the press is opened.
seems to me, after reading this thread, that you almost want plates that are the same size as your squashed starting material. that way as the oil gets forced away from the starting material it flows out of the plates and is spared the extra heat...? sound right?
@farscaper... you mentioned something about this did you not? do tell!
poonman
Well-Known Member
I would like to drive by and pick it up , if possible .
Did anyone find out the price for this ?
THCyantist
Member
Don't know if anyone uses periscope, but there are some cool hash related broadcasters.
Oil Slick
Strait Concentrate
Nick Bradley
Bubbleman
Oil slick in particular try to educate on rosin tech. They use SlickWrap to press, and often describe it as "foil backed parchment, with a lot more silicon than normal parchment. Doesn't work for baking applications." (I think. I'm always stoned when i watch it)
What about glass? it's not nonstick but its inert and you can scrape it as hard at you want and reuse it. as long as it held up to pressures (through even force distribution?).
Also been dreaming about bevels or small channels to guide the rosin in a radial direction outwards. out of the bud and away from the heat.
Oil Slick
Strait Concentrate
Nick Bradley
Bubbleman
Oil slick in particular try to educate on rosin tech. They use SlickWrap to press, and often describe it as "foil backed parchment, with a lot more silicon than normal parchment. Doesn't work for baking applications." (I think. I'm always stoned when i watch it)
What about glass? it's not nonstick but its inert and you can scrape it as hard at you want and reuse it. as long as it held up to pressures (through even force distribution?).
Also been dreaming about bevels or small channels to guide the rosin in a radial direction outwards. out of the bud and away from the heat.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Fuck man I need to get off my ass already and get a press. I guess I can say now but I've got a couple of thick high pressure resistant silicone pads which have 5 pin d-nail xlr connectors on the end which plug into an enail controller unit and can be put into whatever press you have. They are 10 x 10 inches and I will be getting a hydraulic press as soon as I get a minute to start squishing seriously!
Has anyone got any idea yet of the amount of pressure that gets best results with flower and bubble yet?
Cheers my brother!Right on bro..
I think I am seeing that my oil is lighter in color when I don't presquish nugs but I am running low on good nugs now to keep testing this.
I still don't quite understand why one would spend the time and labor making yummy bubble, only to squish it later?
Just curious, not trying to be a tool.
Edit: I forgot there are several grades of bubble.
The reason I prefer to use bubble is much, much less physical effort for squishing is required. I can do a full bubble run from start to finish in under an hour. Machine bubble making is amazing! My combination of solvent/solventless tech leads to absolutely zero loss of starting material. However, normally, you are absolutely right that bubble gets lesser yields than solvents! I actually find I get the lightest (as in straight glass crystals almost no color to speak of) rosin from my 73 micron bag bubble, much lighter than I've gotten from nugs at all.
Moreover, the strain I'm working with is a very, very dense nug, the nugs do not squish out unless they are pre-squished in a pollen press. Even then, you are not getting more than a dab from a squish. If I scoop some lower grade bubble into some musclin I can juice a full .25-.50 of bubble in one single squish - with a hair straightener!!! That's my week's worth of night time meds in one squish from a straightener! You guys have seen pics of some of the stuff I have squished from bubble in this thread!
Btw, vaping bubble pucks is whitewall city. I vape all of my pucks in the Mighty (at the moment, usually I use the d-nail flower adapter but I broke my glass for it, got some more inbound!). Bubble pucks in my case tend to look like light pressed hash, the lightness is ironically because most of the actives have been squished out (if there are actives left, look for dark patches where it there are resin deposits left
). I am sure in countries where there is a hash market that people could sell such pucks as pressed hash even lol. There are definitely still actives just like when squishing nugs!Remember guys, there is never a need to waste anything here! By the way, I vaped a rosin puck from some very well squished cluster bomb bubble with a friend the other night, it had a really nice taste to it and the fullest body high I've ever gotten. The kind that would truly satisfy a combuster who seeks the couchlock.
CharlieBelmont
Well-Known Member
Just was poking around and found a 20% promo code SHATTER for oilslick.bigcartel.com (the maker) It was on their twitter. Waiting on a dnail but I figure I might as well pick some of this foil stuff up...
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Deep in the thread somewhere I mentioned using a small square of silicone on top of my folded parchment papers. I found that everything pressed nicer/easier/cleaner so to speak. Not sure how thick it is since I can't find my damn ruler anywhere, probably 1/16 inch thickness? Stacked 4 high it looks like it's around 1/4 inch so prolly 1/16. Anyways the square goes over the parchment paper (with pre-pressed nugget inside) and that goes into the hair iron vice. IME it kind of pushes the oil away and out of the silicone area, and doesn't seem to pool around the puck. I've noticed that this isn't needed when using a 1" hair iron, but the one I really liked broke (but it wasn't my fault lolol) and went back to a 2". I like the medisunman die press with the two circles. Ideally my press would have interchangable dies for different load sizes so that I could maximize on the rosin running out and away from the central point of heat. Still using the little silicone pad thing and it's still working out for me.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
How about avoiding the use of PTFE or silicone in high pressure/low temp' presses altogether by replacing parchment with two very thin pieces of stainless steel sheet.
These could be pre-heated simply (e.g. mug of boiled water)
Terp's and other delicate actives in the rosin could be preserved by quickly removing the SS plates from between our heated 'press jaws' immediately after the squish, and placing them on something cold from the freezer.
Since they're thin they'd cool down fast.
No risk of tearing.
Very re-useable.
No potential contaminants.
Would allow for very low temp'/high pressure squish.
Can be fast or slow.
Quick cool down after squish is easily achieved.
The resulting rosin could be harvested from the plates with ease, but would be un-filtered.
I'm thinking that it might be easier to filter plant waxes etc from unfiltered rosin, than doing the extraction and filter simultaneously with mesh/parchment/t-bag/muslin at risk of tearing, or contaminating the product.
I confess though that my 'highdea' hasn't yet got a method for low temp solventless filtering.
Maybe a high pressure syringe with a SS mesh filter in the nozzle?
Edit:
BTW, how many people using rosintech are bothering to filter their product?
These could be pre-heated simply (e.g. mug of boiled water)
Terp's and other delicate actives in the rosin could be preserved by quickly removing the SS plates from between our heated 'press jaws' immediately after the squish, and placing them on something cold from the freezer.
Since they're thin they'd cool down fast.
No risk of tearing.
Very re-useable.
No potential contaminants.
Would allow for very low temp'/high pressure squish.
Can be fast or slow.
Quick cool down after squish is easily achieved.
The resulting rosin could be harvested from the plates with ease, but would be un-filtered.
I'm thinking that it might be easier to filter plant waxes etc from unfiltered rosin, than doing the extraction and filter simultaneously with mesh/parchment/t-bag/muslin at risk of tearing, or contaminating the product.
I confess though that my 'highdea' hasn't yet got a method for low temp solventless filtering.
Maybe a high pressure syringe with a SS mesh filter in the nozzle?
Edit:
BTW, how many people using rosintech are bothering to filter their product?
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sounds like you preferred the 1" heaters over the 2" heaters no? im using 1" plates now myself.
edit @2clicker as I said above I use 1"x4" heater on my vise press so when I squish a flower the rosin flows out from under the heaters to the top and bottom of the plates and builds up (collects). when I was using a 6"x6" heater from the gecko the rosin made a circle around the puck, but it couldnt escape from the heat so thecrosin would never build up like it does with smaller heater plates.
collection has been a dream with the diy vise I built which cost me nothing. even if I had to buy every part brand new it would still be under 100$ for my setup. the gecko cost me $189 and its the cheapest sublimation press ive ever seen and it still gets out performed by my home made screw vise press.
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Tough question Sir! My jaws are 1"x 2" and I can squish a 1/4g with hardly any torque on the vise handle or I can squish 1g (1"x2" puck) with i'd guess 20-40lbs of torque on the handle (one handed with screwdriver as handle). That's roughly 2000-4000psi clamping force (per Kurt's website) and with 2 square inches in my jaws divide that by 2 for my best guess of anywhere between 1000 and 2000 pounds per square inch for flowers..
I know rosin can be had with less pressures but this is my best guess for better returns.
Thanks for the bubble info.
I know @shark sandwich said he broke a 1 ton arbor press but a 3 ton works good i think for an idea of pressure.
I do for my pens, and I think a few others in here do.
Edit: Bubbleman also tossed out I think 900psi for the dnail?
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I use about 3k psi when pressing bubble. I don't have as much experience with flower, but it may not require as much pressure due to the steam action and physical structure.
Then again, @Joel W. calculated his psi using the whole press area available. We can get more accurate numbers by measuring the utilized area, which is the total area the puck covers after it's been pressed. If Joel's pucks are 1 square inch coming out, then he's also using 2-4k psi.
Then again, @Joel W. calculated his psi using the whole press area available. We can get more accurate numbers by measuring the utilized area, which is the total area the puck covers after it's been pressed. If Joel's pucks are 1 square inch coming out, then he's also using 2-4k psi.
2clicker
Observer
ok so it sounds like the vise rosin tech is the best bet for DIY at the moment. i think im going to shoot for a 1" x 3 or 4" plate/s. probably going to hack open a hair iron and fix the heaters/plates to a vise I currently have.
regarding dense nugs... does anyone think grinding nugs and then pressing them in a pollen press will help extract goodies that may normally get stuck in a dense nug? i realize that this introduces more small particles than an intact nug, but a filter can always be used. i feel like it would help the oil flow out...?
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
I asked a very similar question here too.
Sadly no one replied.
Or rather, no one replied to say that they'd actually tried it and got good or bad results.
weenstoned
Well-Known Member
Ya probably darker rosin, might not be too bad if once done you press it thru a 25 micron silkscreen to filter out particles
Whoops forgot to say to use a super low temp, I think soilgrown on Instagram says like 150 degrees Fahrenheit or something like that, definitely below 200 degrees
Whoops forgot to say to use a super low temp, I think soilgrown on Instagram says like 150 degrees Fahrenheit or something like that, definitely below 200 degrees
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2clicker
Observer
why do you say it will be darker? aside from plant matter particles what else is being extracted to darken the oil?
and are you saying that grinded flowers need lower temps vs just smashing them?
most users, from what i can tell, are shooting for a 220-230F temp. that changes if the starting material is grinded and then pressed into a puck?
weenstoned
Well-Known Member
Ya it would probably be mostly plant matter. Just a bit can really darken oil (for example if you wash with iso or ethanol too long).
Sorry if I was unclear. You would press at whatever temp you normally do then collect it and press through the screen at a low temp so that the rosin will flow through the screen.
Sorry if I was unclear. You would press at whatever temp you normally do then collect it and press through the screen at a low temp so that the rosin will flow through the screen.
GuyLeDuche
^ "Eat a bag of Dick's!"
I'm not sure how much goodness gets lost to the grinder, that's what has kept me from grinding. I break up nugs by hand somewhat, mainly to harvest lumber, then compress by hand.
2clicker
Observer
good call but if youve got a grinder already seasoned i doubt there is much loss. esp since you can add the powdery kief to it anyway.
heres another idea... what about smashing multiple nugs together into one puck? like stacking them and then smash... obviously it will make the puck thicker, but could you do more at once this way?
as much pressure as a good vise puts out ive not needed to even pre compress buds anymore.
ironically I have found that bricking helps with exceptionally fluffy buds. by cold and slow compression more material stays in tact and slow compression and staying in this compressed form distributes the moisture more evenly through the bud, which ironically works very beneficially in rosin extraction from flowers...
when was the last time someone said bricking your weed made it better?
but im serious
although not everyone wants to hold onto stuff for a while before pressing it but... it seems to help with fluffy buds.
for dense flowers I would simply suggest to press smaller amounts at a time. this ensures when the goods are gone the chip will be dry and crispy with no tacky to it at all.
grinding is only going to break it up more.... I wouldn't say it wont help... but it seems to add an unnecessary step that eill likely end in lower yield... but I could be wrong... ive misplaced my hammer press or I would just fucking try it and tell you whst happened. if I finagle one together ill try it out.
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GuyLeDuche
^ "Eat a bag of Dick's!"
Guys, I'm kind of a dummy. I grabbed this sheet of silk screen to use for a DIY trim tray, but I think I got all mixed up on the mesh count/micron. (wanted about a 200micron to get a rough sift while trimming?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111624317884?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
My question is, is this actually 48u, and if so would it be usable to filter waxes and junk off rosin? I'd like to start making EJmix rosin, but past efforts clogged the coil after half tank or so..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111624317884?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
My question is, is this actually 48u, and if so would it be usable to filter waxes and junk off rosin? I'd like to start making EJmix rosin, but past efforts clogged the coil after half tank or so..
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I'm really confused here man - why would you go and deliberately add solvents to rosin (vg/pg/peg etc to make ejuice) after you went to the trouble of solventless extraction?
Have you considered using cartridges that will work with the rosin without adding solvents to liquify it? This is gonna be a much more tasty, safer solution.
