sweetherb
Well-Known Member
Agreed, that is impressive stuff!
Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles
- Thread starter aesthyrian
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Agreed, that is impressive stuff!
alright, here we go:
the measurements were done with an EMPTY chamber, temperatures with a loaded chamber would probably yield lower temps because heat is used to evaporate substances. nevertheless the temperatures measured are the ones hitting the material at the surface.
reveals what we all have suspected: the lsv is highly sensitive on draw rate/speed!
also the last draws of each temperature is not as high as the first draw even thought same draw rate was applied, probably due to cooling of the air path and heater from previous draws.
when using the lsv with herbs its probably not possible to draw at the max drawrate used here, those are the lowest temperatures possible with my lsv. the added draw restriction from grinded herbs probably increases temperature a bit.
again controlling the draw rate is very difficult, but i tried to keep it as constant as possible and similar over the three temperature settings.
thanks for the encouragement @hoptimum
im always up for input!
and shits crazy at 305 degree celsius,certainly combustion...avoid hight temp and slow draw!
edit: time is only accurate for the red curve, the other two are fitted to get a better picture, heights are correct though.
the measurements were done with an EMPTY chamber, temperatures with a loaded chamber would probably yield lower temps because heat is used to evaporate substances. nevertheless the temperatures measured are the ones hitting the material at the surface.
reveals what we all have suspected: the lsv is highly sensitive on draw rate/speed!
also the last draws of each temperature is not as high as the first draw even thought same draw rate was applied, probably due to cooling of the air path and heater from previous draws.
when using the lsv with herbs its probably not possible to draw at the max drawrate used here, those are the lowest temperatures possible with my lsv. the added draw restriction from grinded herbs probably increases temperature a bit.
again controlling the draw rate is very difficult, but i tried to keep it as constant as possible and similar over the three temperature settings.
thanks for the encouragement @hoptimum
im always up for input!and shits crazy at 305 degree celsius,certainly combustion...avoid hight temp and slow draw!
edit: time is only accurate for the red curve, the other two are fitted to get a better picture, heights are correct though.
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Gooooood work my boy!!!!
I love stoner science! - it is my life hahaha. We should work together on a potumentary.
Try adding a little thermal mass to the transducer - that will smooth out the fluxion somewhat and help analogise the thermal mass of the bud.
Those curves are exactly why i have developed closed loop control for the LSV - smoooooooooooth flat lines.
Steady temps - OM NOM NOM
Now one thing i wonder, if it exists (i can can come up with?) some sort of pressure/velocity dependent passive valve for air-flow regulation before entering the heater cover.
This way open loop control is more consistent by constraining one variable somewhat.
Edit: just thought, why not press a little bud into a small ball - stick the thermocouple junction into that and then load a bowl around it.
I love stoner science! - it is my life hahaha. We should work together on a potumentary.
Try adding a little thermal mass to the transducer - that will smooth out the fluxion somewhat and help analogise the thermal mass of the bud.
Those curves are exactly why i have developed closed loop control for the LSV - smoooooooooooth flat lines.
Steady temps - OM NOM NOM
Now one thing i wonder, if it exists (i can can come up with?) some sort of pressure/velocity dependent passive valve for air-flow regulation before entering the heater cover.
This way open loop control is more consistent by constraining one variable somewhat.
Edit: just thought, why not press a little bud into a small ball - stick the thermocouple junction into that and then load a bowl around it.
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. How about a temp reading on max with a slow draw right by the mouthpiece please.
Thanks.
you need to specify a little more, you can see my setup in the pictures of the last page here. in general im willing to place the thermocouple anywhere possible. so would you like to know the temperature of vapor going out of the bubbler mouthpiece? or out of the transfer wand? (thats a bit harder to accomplish) basically show me where to measure temp, you can also edit my pictures and mark with a red circle or whatever
Frostiestone
Well-Known Member
this would be interesting to see, maybe start to gather data on the limits before you mark feeling uncomfortable (or about to cough). Could be a precise way to keep oneself right in that comfortable zone .
There will obviously be tons of different factors at play like differences or a lack of diffusion through water, and ones own lung tolerance.
. There will obviously be tons of different factors at play like differences or a lack of diffusion through water, and ones own lung tolerance.
delloy
Well-Known Member
Had a lazy Sunday afternoon today, so decided on a project for the LSV and this is what I came up with.
LSV Stand made from English Oak. A small amount of work still to do with fine grade sandpaper to get the finish where I want it to be and then some teak oil
LSV Stand made from English Oak. A small amount of work still to do with fine grade sandpaper to get the finish where I want it to be and then some teak oil
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Frostiestone
Well-Known Member
you crafty mothaducka thats so awesomeHad a lazy Sunday afternoon today, so decided on a project for the LSV and this is what I came up with.
LSV Stand made from English Oak
delloy
Well-Known Member
Some more photos now with the teak oil applied. Not upto @Dan Morrison standard of pics but the iPad doesn't take the best photos in the gloomy UK early evening
Trendy Ambient Mood Lighting perhaps or just an LSV
Trendy Ambient Mood Lighting perhaps or just an LSV
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sooooooo how much ?Some more photos now with the teak oil applied. Not upto @Dan Morrison standard of pics but the iPad doesn't take the best photos in the gloomy UK early evening
Trendy Ambient Mood Lighting perhaps or just an LSV
delloy
Well-Known Member
Decided to call it the LSV (Life Support Vessel)
Took me all day to make yesterday with the limited tools I had available. Handsaw, Belt Sander, Electric drill and Hole borers....oh and the tube of silicone for tracing around to give me the rounded corners
Im sure we can come to some sorta 7th Floor goodies trade for one
Took me all day to make yesterday with the limited tools I had available. Handsaw, Belt Sander, Electric drill and Hole borers....oh and the tube of silicone for tracing around to give me the rounded corners
Im sure we can come to some sorta 7th Floor goodies trade for one
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Poopman525
Well-Known Member
Hey guys and girls, I don't know if this has ever been asked. Is your heating element slightly bent? The element itself is straight but it's slightly diagonal and not straight. I was wondering if this is normal or not. Thanks!
lol yeah this is quite common due to shipping.
Turn off the vape (let it cool off for an hour!). Then simply unscrew the two top metal parts and remove the glass cover (mine was a friction fit - gently pull to release).
All I did was push my heating element until it looked centered (don't adjust the mounting height! don't push it down into the unit - this could damage things!). Then reinstalled the glass cover and the metal. Haven't had to readjust ever since.
icanreadgood
Well-Known Member
Hey just wanted to chime in with what I did with the hot base issue. Warning: it will make your vape looks worse, but for me the utility is too strong for me to care. Bought 3 feet of a medium gauge hemp rope and wrapped it around the lsv tightly. Friend who knows knots just happened to be in the room and he used 2 sailor knots to tie off each end. This is important because the heat expands the rope and makes it loose. If you use 2 sailor knots, you can easily re tighten by twisting clockwise on one end of the rope and counter clockwise on the other end. This is a good cheap solution, and great alternative to having to buy a mic stand or make a wood base. Plus it makes it easier to bring to a friend's house
http://imgur.com/mj1EsOe
http://imgur.com/mj1EsOe
grokit
well-worn member
The mic stands and wooden bases can be used to stand the lsv straight up while it's turned on, to keep it cool in the first place. My solution is a ~$5 plumbing part, not very pretty but quite useful and effective.
God-dammnit!
icanreadgood
Well-Known Member
Just checked out your plumbing part solution, looks like a great fit for you. I'd still worry about it toppling over when I bring it places. Also, I couldnt drill into the part because as a millennial, I own no real power tools
thats the worst excuse ever. im no millenial but also had to get some tools one time or another.i guess this is the time for you...ikea sold me a drill for about $25 its weak but with luck you drill a hole into concrete. no problem for plastics or wood. get some tools and stop being one
ok that was uncalled for. get some tools,crafting is the real shit!
grokit
well-worn member
Aren't millennials really into community?
Surely someone in yours must have a drill you can use
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
I just sit here shaking my head, the modern generation scares me!
thats the worst excuse ever. im no millenial but also had to get some tools one time or another.i guess this is the time for you...ikea sold me a drill for about $25 its weak but with luck you drill a hole into concrete. no problem for plastics or wood. get some tools and stop being one
Aren't millennials really into community?
Surely someone in yours must have a drill you can use
I'm in tears over here!!! For some reason I just found this really funny. Idk maybe cuz I'm vaked.
