Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

I decided to try the dual 1/8" fc2000 wicks with one coil again in a 1701 atty with 26g Ti1 wire.

At first it sucked because it would not get hot enough in tc mode to be effective but after trying it in power mode and loving it, I went back to tc mode and it works great again at lower temps. Power mode must be annealing the wire, even without it ever glowing.

The dipstick.

@Joel W. why the dual wicks and one coil? While inexpensive, it's double the wire, double the wick, and double the resistance. At least dual wick/dual coil would halve the resistance, or more like 1/4 of the resistance compared to your current setup. I guess talking about ti resistance though is practically a moot point since it's so low anyway. Am I missing something?

Huge fan of my AC cart paired with the evic tc40. I agree the AC is a very well built item and hits like a train

Hyphy said:

@Joel W. why the dual wicks and one coil? While inexpensive, it's double the wire, double the wick, and double the resistance. At least dual wick/dual coil would halve the resistance, or more like 1/4 of the resistance compared to your current setup. I guess talking about ti resistance though is practically a moot point since it's so low anyway. Am I missing something?

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Just trying to get as much wire and wick into that 1701 atty as possible I guess. It comes it at .61 ohms.

Edit: The rosin I am using has been filtered down to 15 microns and the wicks seem to last much longer now. I might even try the upside down pyramid triple wick setup next in 1/8" wick.

Edit2: This 1701 atty is designed for a 2 wire ceramic doughnut and there simply is not room for 2 coils and 2 wicks side by side, even with the smaller wicks. I don't think 2 sets of wires will fit through these holes. If I could figure a way to make the ceramic holes bigger I would and I have tried with zero luck

Joel W. said:

Just trying to get as much wire and wick into that 1701 atty as possible

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Right on. You may already know this but another idea for more wire is to twist smaller gauge wire (maybe 28/30AWG?) for greater surface area. I don't know all the names and types, but the clapton coil might be a variant for example. There's a bunch of youtube tutorials that use a power drill to twist em up in less than 10 seconds.

What's up with the kiss coil usage vids? This stumpy rda with a parallel coil on the fc wick has been a monster.

When I built it, it had a resistance of 0.16ohms after a week of use and a couple squeezes it comes in at 0.33 ohms.

Not sure why, but I like it!

Joel W. said:

Just trying to get as much wire and wick into that 1701 atty as possible I guess. It comes it at .61 ohms.

Edit: The rosin I am using has been filtered down to 15 microns and the wicks seem to last much longer now. I might even try the upside down pyramid triple wick setup next in 1/8" wick.

Edit2: This 1701 atty is designed for a 2 wire ceramic doughnut and there simply is not room for 2 coils and 2 wicks side by side, even with the smaller wicks. I don't think 2 sets of wires will fit through these holes. If I could figure a way to make the ceramic holes bigger I would and I have tried with zero luck

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have you seen the eden mods Rose v2-s? iv been running two fc2000 wicks side by side in its ceramic cup the past few days. with just enough room for two sets of wires.


I recall another member mentioned they use the rose in this thread?

Ohh, I like that! Thanks @chainz

chainz said:

have you seen the eden mods Rose v2-s? iv been running two fc2000 wicks side by side in its ceramic cup the past few days. with just enough room for two sets of wires.

I recall another member mentioned they use the rose in this thread?

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Is that a clone or authentic? At $200+ I'll be getting the clone...lol

WakeAndVape said:

Is that a clone or authentic? At $200+ I'll be getting the clone...lol

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im with you on that haha. its a clone off of fast tech

Joel W. said:

Ohh, I like that! Thanks @chainz

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arent you working with one of the postless RDAs? certainly you could get two FC-2000 strips in there no?

or is it someone else?

2clicker said:

arent you working with one of the postless RDAs? certainly you could get two FC-2000 strips in there no?

or is it someone else?

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I was playing with the evil monk rda but there was no room for a ceramic cup and it was messy without one.

Joel W. said:

I was playing with the evil monk rda but there was no room for a ceramic cup and it was messy without one.

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do you get a lot of oil dripping off the wick and onto the deck?

the only oil that makes it to the deck on my rigs is just residual oil that condenses there and on the cap. well it condenses on everything in there really, but i never get any "run off" oil.

i guess im asking why a ceramic cup is desirable here. i see no need for one personally. ive been considering trying an evil monk myself.

@2clicker . I probably add too much oil at once. I think the cup help keep any splatter from going too far and maybe recirculate it a bit back into the wick.. I was running lower power back then but I do notice less splatter at higher settings.

What size ti wire are you guys using mostly? 0.4 or 0.5mm?

Darb said:

What size ti wire are you guys using mostly? 0.4 or 0.5mm?

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im using 28gauge, not sure is size in mm offhand.

2clicker said:

do you get a lot of oil dripping off the wick and onto the deck?

the only oil that makes it to the deck on my rigs is just residual oil that condenses there and on the cap. well it condenses on everything in there really, but i never get any "run off" oil.

i guess im asking why a ceramic cup is desirable here. i see no need for one personally. ive been considering trying an evil monk myself.

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You don't have runoff oil on the base of the deck? Right now I can probably scrape a glob from the floor of the deck...What am I doing differently?

I think even subohm tank is too much for wax oil. My preferable setting is Aspire Nautilus @ 1.5 ohm + 10-15w power. Probably won't give this a try but thanks for share

2clicker said:

do you get a lot of oil dripping off the wick and onto the deck?

the only oil that makes it to the deck on my rigs is just residual oil that condenses there and on the cap. well it condenses on everything in there really, but i never get any "run off" oil.

i guess im asking why a ceramic cup is desirable here. i see no need for one personally. ive been considering trying an evil monk myself.

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I've been using the Evil Monk. My airholes did get filled with reclaim or runoff after a while. But my buddy says he gets no reclaim at all. I think it is a difference in efficiency, he takes huge pulls and I'm a choker. I'm probably putting too much on and then letting it melt, but it is hard to put less on! I also end up with a lot of it that pools so I wipe that periodically. But my buddy doesn't have that issue either. So I think you should be ok, there is definitely some "user error" on my part.

Even though it got clogged, it still worked really well and I would use a twist of paper towel to clean the airholes. I finally built a new coil yesterday and soaked the RDA in iso and thoroughly cleaned it.

I also could possibly be running the wattage too low because of the previous discussion about not getting it red hot. But the flavor has been improved and there are no harsh hits at all like when the temp is too high (just did this actually because I forgot to switch back wattage after using my CBD ejuice RDA).

WakeAndVape said:

You don't have runoff oil on the base of the deck? Right now I can probably scrape a glob from the floor of the deck...What am I doing differently?

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i get residual build up from oil condensing, but nothing drips/falls from the wick to the deck unless i load too much. if your wick is clean enough it should absorb your whole dab and it should vape off of that. i have noticed that once the wick starts to gunk up that it does not absorb near as well as it should. when this happens just remove the wick, torch it clean, and re-install it. it should wick well after that. i really like the FC-2000, but wonder about a more porous ceramic rod solution. saw some on ebay that say "high porosity"... gonna give those a shot.

working4buddha said:

I've been using the Evil Monk. My airholes did get filled with reclaim or runoff after a while. But my buddy says he gets no reclaim at all. I think it is a difference in efficiency, he takes huge pulls and I'm a choker. I'm probably putting too much on and then letting it melt, but it is hard to put less on! I also end up with a lot of it that pools so I wipe that periodically. But my buddy doesn't have that issue either. So I think you should be ok, there is definitely some "user error" on my part.

Even though it got clogged, it still worked really well and I would use a twist of paper towel to clean the airholes. I finally built a new coil yesterday and soaked the RDA in iso and thoroughly cleaned it.

I also could possibly be running the wattage too low because of the previous discussion about not getting it red hot. But the flavor has been improved and there are no harsh hits at all like when the temp is too high (just did this actually because I forgot to switch back wattage after using my CBD ejuice RDA).

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thanks for the heads up.

Approx how much is everyone loading per hit?

ok team, i did a little experimenting tonight and built a new coil i am quite enjoying so far! basically its a 28gX28g Ti clapton coil wrapped around FC-2000. its a "loose" clapton tho. i made sure to space the outter wire when making the clapton. and made the final coil fit sort of loose around the FC2000. what that does is creates more porosity as well as much more wire surface area. and if you have an rda that allows for a long build the extra porosity and long length provide tons of real estate for a large dab. larger than i normally do thats for sure. i do believe this one will prove to be a true one hitter quitter. so yeah i loaded about 3 dabs worth (each about a BB sized chuck of shatter) onto this coil and tapped the fire button and it ate those dabs up. when looking close at it you can see the oil in all the little nooks and crannies in the clapton. i capped it, through an oring onto the DT, sealed it up to some glass and hit the fire button... blast off. and this was at 420F! normally to get clouds like this my other Ti/FC coils had to be set up around 460-480. so it seems the increased wire surface area really helps with efficiency. settings were 420F, 20W, .36ohm.

so heres a pic... but please forgive me for the shit photo quality. looked much better when i took it. and for my seasoned stubby rda. she needs a bath.


i am really happy with the performance of this coil so far. flavor is great. im going to continue to refine this one. this thing can hold a really nice sized dab. i mean its not going to satisfy ol boy on youtube doing 1g dabs, but this thing will erase your stash if your not careful!

@2clicker freekin sweet man. Curious about the loose coil around the fc2000 though, doesn't that work against the idea of heating up and vaping concentrate that's melted onto the porous wick?

Hyphy said:

@2clicker freekin sweet man. Curious about the loose coil around the fc2000 though, doesn't that work against the idea of heating up and vaping concentrate that's melted onto the porous wick?

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well its not that loose. it tight enough to hold the wick in place, but its not tightly wrapped. what i found with FC-2000 is that after some use the FC-2000 would get "filled" oil deep into its core. and unless you are running temps higher than you would like then that oil inside there wont vape. it got to a point where the FC-2000 would not wick much. that is usually when i remove it and torch it clean. im hoping that when the wick gets gunked this time that the new build will allow great performance for longer.

i have been pondering the idea trying to obtain a Ti rod to use in place of the FC-2000, but im unsure as to if it will work similar considering its not porous.

for my next build i am going to use 26g Ti and wrap 30g Ti around that for the clapton. that will reduce the coils porosity a bit, but like i said this 26gX26g clapton holds more than i need at once. also using a smaller wire for the outter wrap will allow the coil to get closer to the FC-2000 in turn heating the wick better than this current version.

more experimenting to come!

EDIT* btw... this build is 26g X 26g Ti... i had it wrong in my original post

I'm assuming you used a drill to make it?