The Official FC Pets & Animals thread

momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
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arf777

No longer dogless
Back with problems with my puppy Cyrus again. He's been properly housebroken for some time now, got him on a limited ingredient food that helps his other issues. But I moved on August 22, and for the 2nd time this week, my 22 month old Olde English Bulldogge has left steaming piles in my new place. First one ruined the carpet and already lost me my security deposit; 2nd one was on my damn bed this morning while I was in the bathroom, ruined about $300 in orthopedic pillows, my only blanket, my main set of sheets, and possibly the TempurPedic mattress - have bleach soaking on it to try and save it.

The wrinkle is it is not just the dog's fault. Both times it was diarrhea, and both times I discovered my elderly cat had knocked his food onto the floor where the dog promptly ate it, making him sick. The dog's fault lies in never signaling to me that he had to relieve himself, instead both times waited for me to turn my back and then went where I couldn't see him.

And as some of you know I am handicapped and in chronic pain, so cleaning this up, dragging my dog into his crate while doing so, and trying to deal with a messed up mattress are physically tearing me apart. I will now not be able to work tomorrow due to extra pain. And from moving and supporting my parents, I barely have food money til I get paid next Friday, let alone the $$$ to replace what was ruined and take my dog to the vet. Any advice, dog people? My family (not dog people) want me to get rid of him, saying i am too handicapped to deal with this difficult a dog. But like many chronically ill people, my dog is damn near my only friend in real life (I don't count the cat as a friend, he's more a sleek tenant with attitude). And he is beautiful and affectionate. Is there any way to get him to signal me when he needs to go? he is the only dog I've had who never learned to do that.
 

arf777

No longer dogless
The dog can't get to the cats food where it currently is, but the cat keeps knocking it on the floor. Thinking I need to invest in a huge and heavy food dish the cat is incapable of moving. Til then doing timed feedings for the cat, so there will be no food bowl just sitting there.
 

momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
Back with problems with my puppy Cyrus again. He's been properly housebroken for some time now, got him on a limited ingredient food that helps his other issues. But I moved on August 22, and for the 2nd time this week, my 22 month old Olde English Bulldogge has left steaming piles in my new place. First one ruined the carpet and already lost me my security deposit; 2nd one was on my damn bed this morning while I was in the bathroom, ruined about $300 in orthopedic pillows, my only blanket, my main set of sheets, and possibly the TempurPedic mattress - have bleach soaking on it to try and save it.

The wrinkle is it is not just the dog's fault. Both times it was diarrhea, and both times I discovered my elderly cat had knocked his food onto the floor where the dog promptly ate it, making him sick. The dog's fault lies in never signaling to me that he had to relieve himself, instead both times waited for me to turn my back and then went where I couldn't see him.

And as some of you know I am handicapped and in chronic pain, so cleaning this up, dragging my dog into his crate while doing so, and trying to deal with a messed up mattress are physically tearing me apart. I will now not be able to work tomorrow due to extra pain. And from moving and supporting my parents, I barely have food money til I get paid next Friday, let alone the $$$ to replace what was ruined and take my dog to the vet. Any advice, dog people? My family (not dog people) want me to get rid of him, saying i am too handicapped to deal with this difficult a dog. But like many chronically ill people, my dog is damn near my only friend in real life (I don't count the cat as a friend, he's more a sleek tenant with attitude). And he is beautiful and affectionate. Is there any way to get him to signal me when he needs to go? he is the only dog I've had who never learned to do that.
Sounds to me like your dog is a bit upset about the move. He also might have gotten into something during that time. First off, I'd switch up his food to the age old cure of rice and chicken. But first I'd rest his gut with no food for a day.

The behavior is another story. He doesn't signal you to go out... He probably does but you don't catch it. Some dogs just give a 'different' look when they need to go out. And if you are busy or don't catch it you end up with accidents. Perhaps trying to teach the dog to 'speak' should be your first step. If he's not vocal to start with, this might help. Once he finds his 'voice,' he may use it for other things; like going out. Especially if rewarded when 'speaking.'
 

arf777

No longer dogless
@arf777 why not get some of those potty pads..lay one out on floor for his emergencys..easier to clean up

Unfortunately he's such a doofus that pads had no impact at all. Should be OK long term- this is his first set of accidents in nearly a year. It's just that he's sick and not signaling. I need to figure out how to get him to signal when he needs to go- no other dog of mine has failed to learn that during housebreaking. But not this guy. Is there any way to train that behavior specifically? He is normally quite vocal - barks at random crap all the time- but maybe he is just using a look. I have enough trouble reading human facial expressions though :(

I do think the move, getting to the cat food, and a neighborhood of new dogs with their various illnesses all contributed. Also unfortunately, he can't eat chicken or rice (it's a breed problem). But I am trying him on a different food again next weekend. He's been on duck and potato, but I have now heard regular potato can be a problem for some bulldogs. So going to switch him to venison and sweet potato when I get paid.

The timing on this was just really bad. More broke than I've been in years due to parents going bankrupt and needing support, moving, and my own resurgent medical costs. If he'd waited til next weekend for this to happen it'd have been much less stressful (get paid this coming Friday). As it is I can't even afford a vet visit til payday.

Only somewhat related- has anyone tried Dinovite on their dog? A number of people have recommended it to me to help with his gassiness and stinky breath. It ain't cheap but if it works I'll use it.
 

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
@arf777 I had my last dog trained professionally (had other dogs throughout my life but this one was special.. a 3 year old hunting dog rescue who was never housebroken or lived in a house but was to be my new house dog) ... the key was:
- Establishing my dominance (Teaching the dog to take standard commands like sit/stay while looking the dog in the eyes and praise teaches the dog who's boss and teaches the dog to seek your eyes for answers) Some dogs are smart in that they will actually look away from you when given a verbal command because they know if they don't meet your eyes they have wiggle room). My last dog would look in my eyes and react perfectly to commands until I would give the command to stay in the corner. He would immediately look away if he thought that command was coming and would play that game all day if I let him).
- Keeping to a schedule for food/potty training (Feed the dog at the same time every day and wait 30 minutes before taking the dog out will synchronize the dog's expectations to understand he will be taken out after eating and that he can hold it long enough because right after they eat they gotta go).
- Don't introduce new foods over and over. (Find one he likes and likes him and stay with it.)
- Eliminate stress - Long walks, etc. and keeping to schedule.

Sounds like your dog has already learned the majority of the above and might just be having anxiety issues about the move or is getting into something he shouldn't.... but a little reinforcement can go a long way. The dominance work will cause the dog to seek you out and warn you when he has to go and the schedule work will reduce the dog's stress and give him the structure he needs to hold for 30 minutes and do his business. Dog's have amazing internal clocks and appreciate structure.

Hope this helps but here is another warning my dog trainer gave me....when I hired him he asked me what I had tried on my own. When I told him he said.... I was changing the training, food, etc. too often and stressing the dog out. Consistency was important but during the changes/training I had a hard time knowing when to change up something that wasn't working after that advice.

Good Luck!
 

arf777

No longer dogless
@arf777 I had my last dog trained professionally (had other dogs throughout my life but this one was special.. a 3 year old hunting dog rescue who was never housebroken or lived in a house but was to be my new house dog) ... the key was:
- Establishing my dominance (Teaching the dog to take standard commands like sit/stay while looking the dog in the eyes and praise teaches the dog who's boss and teaches the dog to seek your eyes for answers) Some dogs are smart in that they will actually look away from you when given a verbal command because they know if they don't meet your eyes they have wiggle room). My last dog would look in my eyes and react perfectly to commands until I would give the command to stay in the corner. He would immediately look away if he thought that command was coming and would play that game all day if I let him).
- Keeping to a schedule for food/potty training (Feed the dog at the same time every day and wait 30 minutes before taking the dog out will synchronize the dog's expectations to understand he will be taken out after eating and that he can hold it long enough because right after they eat they gotta go).
- Don't introduce new foods over and over. (Find one he likes and likes him and stay with it.)
- Eliminate stress - Long walks, etc. and keeping to schedule.

Sounds like your dog has already learned the majority of the above and might just be having anxiety issues about the move or is getting into something he shouldn't.... but a little reinforcement can go a long way. The dominance work will cause the dog to seek you out and warn you when he has to go and the schedule work will reduce the dog's stress and give him the structure he needs to hold for 30 minutes and do his business. Dog's have amazing internal clocks and appreciate structure.

Hope this helps but here is another warning my dog trainer gave me....when I hired him he asked me what I had tried on my own. When I told him he said.... I was changing the training, food, etc. too often and stressing the dog out. Consistency was important but during the changes/training I had a hard time knowing when to change up something that wasn't working after that advice.

Good Luck!

Good advice. I have resumed the training regimen from when he was first professionally off-leash trained. He's been OK today, but very very gassy. Taking him to the vet as soon as I get paid.
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
FWIW I strongly recommend dog owners NOT to use potty/pee pads. Most persons typically do have positive experiences with the pads for the first few years... but the pads can really can be hell for you if and when your dog grows older and or blinder....

In my experience, which there is not much info on these as they have not been around for many years, older dogs with poor sight will mistake any item left on the floor with a pad. And by any item I mean absolutely fucking everything!

In short, Pads really reinforce bad habbits of peeing inside. Train your dog to wait and only pee outside
 
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