Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

sjohno · Aug 24, 2015

Hi vapers, new to this forum and in vaping, smoking for around 15yrs but now on the vape.
Done a bit of research and purchased an lsv. Was surprised at how good this thing is as it was my first vaping experience with the lsv.
I didnt really like it without water and no wpa came with the vape so ive made a make shift water pipe and have been putting the short wand to the stem of my water pipe and using that way... anybody else use it this way?? Obviously it works but without having used the wpa before was unsure if its not as effective/efficient?? One last thing I live in Sydney and cant really find anywhere in Australia who sell the wpa.. dont really want to have it sent from overseas because of a few undisclosed reasons. Thanks for reading and any replies would be appreciated

hoptimum · Aug 24, 2015

sjohno said:
Hi vapers, new to this forum and in vaping, smoking for around 15yrs but now on the vape.
Done a bit of research and purchased an lsv. Was surprised at how good this thing is as it was my first vaping experience with the lsv.
I didnt really like it without water and no wpa came with the vape so ive made a make shift water pipe and have been putting the short wand to the stem of my water pipe and using that way... anybody else use it this way?? Obviously it works but without having used the wpa before was unsure if its not as effective/efficient?? One last thing I live in Sydney and cant really find anywhere in Australia who sell the wpa.. dont really want to have it sent from overseas because of a few undisclosed reasons. Thanks for reading and any replies would be appreciated

Welcome to the forum. See if you can find something like this. Its an 18 mm M2M adapter that should connect your lsv to your water pipe. If your bong is 14 mm, get an 18 to 14.

http://www.dhgate.com/product/18-18...glass-water/247626570.html#s1-0-1a|2389150333

sjohno · Aug 24, 2015

Thanks mate. Have you used the method of putting the wand to a stem vs the wpa. Was just curious if it was a big difference

hoptimum · Aug 24, 2015

sjohno said:
Thanks mate. Have you used the method of putting the wand to a stem vs the wpa. Was just curious if it was a big difference

Do you mean the transfer wand? No I havent. It doesnt seem like it would make an airtight seal with my water tools. I use this bubbler with that wpa. In fact, the wpa is included with the d020 d. What sort of water tool do you use?

http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/d020-d-bubbler-glass-water-percolator-smoking/187214099.html

sjohno · Aug 24, 2015

hoptim: 841631 said:
Do you mean the transfer wand? No I havent. It doesnt seem like it would make an airtight seal with my water tools. I use this bubbler with that wpa. In fact, the wpa is included with the d020 d. What sort of water tool do you use?

http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/d020-d-bubbler-glass-water-percolator-smoking/187214099.html

I put a rubber grommet on the stem of a bubbler so that when I put the short transfer wand on the stem it seals... so pretty much im using the short transfer wand as my wpa. It works fairly well and can get thick clouds in the bubbler.
My only question really is if I'll get any added benefits with a wpa

Frederick McGuire · Aug 24, 2015

sjohno said:
I put a rubber grommet on the stem of a bubbler so that when I put the short transfer wand on the stem it seals... so pretty much im using the short transfer wand as my wpa. It works fairly well and can get thick clouds in the bubbler.
My only question really is if I'll get any added benefits with a wpa

A male to male as a WPA would give you a pretty similar experience as you get now.

When using a male to male, the end holding the bus is exactly the same as your transfer wand.

The only difference is in mating with the bong.
Gong joints make a nice seal and can support the weight of the lsv.
With your setup it would just be a little more awkward.

The stock wpa is slightly different, I like it, but it's not essential Imo.

Are you using a nice GonG bubbler or a typical Aussie Agung style piece?

I've noticed that the metal downstem of those ones will accept a 14mm male joint quite well

Herb-nerd · Aug 24, 2015

My go to set-ups at the moment are the Super/SSV using a ceramic disk for heat spreading - i use that for more than one people or when i just want to get where i need be as fast as i permissible.

For better efficiency i use the LSV WPA with the ceramic disk - me and my brother will make a bowl last 30 minutes or so between us. Then i need not use the whip and there is less surface area for re-condensation of actives. A-lot if psychological haha. :rolleyes:

Though recently i have been using modified ELB's in a 19/18mm male joint and plopping the LSV on top.
The efficiency of extraction is like nothing i have seen outside of closed loop control. I have been waking up on my sofa with a green bowl still loaded - this is new territory for me haha.

I cut the ELB and then slide the two portions to vary the length of the bowl - highly recommend!

Equally i have been doing this with my SSV/Super though this is where it takes an unexpected turn, i am using a 19mm to 14mm step down as my preferred wand...

This and the ceramic heat spreaders make HUGE impacts on the outcome of the extraction, its a pain that at the moment it is just me online advising this use - though the ceramic disk will be incorporated into our instructions and advise for use.

These small experiments have verified a few prior conjectures for me, the major difference between vaporizers and their performance is very much due to load/heater configuration. I have been using a 19/18mm to 14mm step down as my wand with the cut down ELB in there and it seems to actually be the best i have tried so far - as silly as it may appear.

I can get a picture if anyone is interested/cares

For now, i wont be straying away from the ELB configuration until my money situation improves - but if my friends come round with some consumables - i'd be cracking out the WPA with the disk to keep efficiency high while allowing for a larger load volume.

The variables that go into everyday use and experience of vaporizers are so massive, it really does make discussions a somewhat difficult task

Edit: Not that my opinion is often correct

, but i would suggest that the WPA is superior to the M2M simply because of the ceramic disk topper - i get a much better experience with GREATLY reduced stirring.
i'll keep spinning this broken record until some people try and agree/disagree haha :lol:

Though the M2M (or just a bubbler with 19/18mm male joint) is needed for the ELB option also.
IMO - you cant use the LSV with only one of the two unless your bud supply is endless, if so then the WPA is the way to go. I switch depending on supply and demand.

sjohno · Aug 24, 2015

[Qderick McGuire, post: 841654, member: 6134"]A male to male as a WPA would give you a pretty similar experience as you get now.

When using a male to male, the end holding the bus iI'llxactly the same ansfer wand.

The only difference is in mating with the bong.
Gong joints make a nice seal and can support the weight of the lsv.
With your setup it would just be a little more awkward.

The stock wpa is slightly different, I like it, but it's not essential Imo.

Are you using a nice GonG bubbler or a typical Aussie Agung style piece?

I've noticed that the metal downstem of those ones will accept a 14mm male joint quite well

[/QUOTE]
Yeah typical aussie metal stem mate :tup:

i have been using this setup for a while. Was just browsing on this forum about the lsv setups and realised i was in the stone ages compared to most on here. Cheers for your reply, i will have to do some searching

Delta3DStudios · Aug 24, 2015

sjohno said:
Yeah typical aussie metal stem mate i have been using this setup for a while. Was just browsing on this forum about the lsv setups and realised i was in the stone ages compared to most on here. Cheers for your reply, i will have to do some searching

I don't think you understand. The LSV has a standard 18mm female fitting. You can use a standard 18mm male to male adapter which I can guarantee you can find somewhere in Australia.

There are many different screens you can use with a M2M, some of which may be harder than others to find in Australia, Here's a good diagram made by a fellow FC member (can't remember who, sorry!) to show where to place a standard screen in the adapter:

Simply take this adapter, and insert into an standard 18mm female waterpipe:

sjohno · Aug 24, 2015

Ratchett said:
I don't think you understand. The LSV has a standard 18mm fempretty Sheing. You can utandard 18mm male to male adapter which I can guarantee you can find somewhere in Australia.

There are many different screens you can use2M, some of which may be harder than others in Australia, Here's a good diagram made by a fellow FC member (can't remember who, sorry!) to show where to place a standard screen in the adapter:

Simply take this adapter, and insert into an standard 18mm female waterpipe:

Yeah I get all that and understand where and how the wpa goes on a bubbler. my main question which was pretty much answered by frederick mcguire, was what benefits will a wpa have over holding the transfer wand to a stem? As fred explained, there isnt probably any difference between the 2 apart from a bit of convenience using the wpa

sjohno · Aug 25, 2015

Herb-nerd said:
My go to set-ups at the moment are the Super/SSV using a ceramic disk for heat spreading - i use that for more than one people or when i just want to get where i need be as fast as i permissible.

For better efficiency i use the LSV WPA with the ceramic disk - me and my brother will make a bowl last 30 minutes or so between us. Then i need not use the whip and there is less surface area for re-condensation of actives. A-lot if psychological haha.

Though recently i have been using modified ELB's in a 19/18mm male joint and plopping the LSV on top.
The efficiency of extraction is like nothing i have seen outside of closed loop control. I have been waking up on my sofa with a green bowl still loaded - this is new territory for me haha.

I cut the ELB and then slide the two portions to vary the length of the bowl - highly recommend!

Equally i have been doing this with my SSV/Super though this is where it takes an unexpected turn, i am using a 19mm to 14mm step down as my preferred wand...

This and the ceramic heat spreaders make HUGE impacts on the outcome of the extraction, its a pain that at the moment it is just me online advising this use - though the ceramic disk will be incorporated into our instructions and advise for use.

These small experiments have verified a few prior conjectures for me, the major difference between vaporizers and their performance is very much due to load/heater configuration. I have been using a 19/18mm to 14mm step down as my wand with the cut down ELB in there and it seems to actually be the best i have tried so far - as silly as it may appear.

I can get a picture if anyone is interested/cares

For now, i wont be straying away from the ELB configuration until my money situation improves - but if my friends come round with some consumables - i'd be cracking out the WPA with the disk to keep efficiency high while allowing for a larger load volume.

The variables that go into everyday use and experience of vaporizers are so massive, it really does make discussions a somewhat difficult task

Edit: Not that my opinion is often correct , but i would suggest that the WPA is superior to the M2M simply because of the ceramic disk topper - i get a much better experience with GREATLY reduced stirring.
i'll keep spinning this broken record until some people try and agree/disagree haha
Though the M2M (or just a bubbler with 19/18mm male joint) is needed for the ELB option also.
IMO - you cant use the LSV with only one of the two unless your bud supply is endless, if so then the WPA is the way to go. I switch depending on supply and demand.

you must be a local round here..
I had to read this a second time to take it all in, thanks. I bet you blame your experiments for getting too wasted all the time

At least you have an excuse.....

icanreadgood · Sep 4, 2015

Hey, this is a long term review on the lsv.
I've had this vape for about 2 years now, maybe more. It's a champ, i love it. It reminds me of a classic American muscle car. It has tons of power, it's engine will never stop running. I get massive hits, and my friend who has a volcano always tells me to bring mine over because of the extremely thick vapor hits. Fantastic.

The other side, is like older American cars, the attention to detail and finish could use some work. For example, the glue holding the metal cover on the plastic knob came off and I had to super glue it back on. The plastic cover over the led on the unit came off and I had to super glue that back on. The lsv label on the wand is crooked. The bag that came with the lsv is not made particularly well for it. I placed my WPA in a side interior pocket and when laying the bag on the ground and letting go of it from literally 4 inches high, part of the bag landed on a surge protector. It was enough to pop the WPA out of the loose interior pocket, and onto the lsv where it shattered. Bag was zipped btw. Also, my unit gets really hot, and I have to turn the heat all the way up to get hits because the hc has a smaller than usual side hole. Would have loved to have a hemp rope wrap to hold the base.

So all in all, it has that nasty dumb American power, but the attention to detail and finish is lacking. I would definitely buy again. Once again, it is a monster when it comes to hits, but just wish they could address some of the issues

hoptimum · Sep 4, 2015

icanreadgood said:
Hey, this is a long term review on the lsv.
I've had this vape for about 2 years now, maybe more. It's a champ, i love it. It reminds me of a classic American muscle car. It has tons of power, it's engine will never stop running. I get massive hits, and my friend who has a volcano always tells me to bring mine over because of the extremely thick vapor hits. Fantastic.

The other side, is like older American cars, the attention to detail and finish could use some work. For example, the glue holding the metal cover on the plastic knob came off and I had to super glue it back on. The plastic cover over the led on the unit came off and I had to super glue that back on. The lsv label on the wand is crooked. The bag that came with the lsv is not made particularly well for it. I placed my WPA in a side interior pocket and when laying the bag on the ground and letting go of it from literally 4 inches high, part of the bag landed on a surge protector. It was enough to pop the WPA out of the loose interior pocket, and onto the lsv where it shattered. Bag was zipped btw. Also, my unit gets really hot, and I have to turn the heat all the way up to get hits because the hc has a smaller than usual side hole. Would have loved to have a hemp rope wrap to hold the base.

So all in all, it has that nasty dumb American power, but the attention to detail and finish is lacking. I would definitely buy again. Once again, it is a monster when it comes to hits, but just wish they could address some of the issues

The most serious issue IMO is how hot it gets, because after all it is a handheld. My fix is to wrap a cloth potholder around it in a way that still allows easy access to the knob.

Tweak · Sep 4, 2015

hoptimum said:
The most serious issue IMO is how hot it gets

Yeah I never had that issue until I started leaving mine on for hours at a time. Now it can get pretty hot.

I use a coozie with a hole punched for the knob wrapped in a Wii-mote silicone sleeve. Also adds some texture for better grip.

grokit · Sep 5, 2015

That's why standing it straight up works so well, for heat dissipation :tup:

I hate to say it but the knockoffs made an improvement, with the side-exit cord.

Herb-nerd · Sep 6, 2015

Tweak said:
Yeah I never had that issue until I started leaving mine on for hours at a time. Now it can get pretty hot.

I use a coozie with a hole punched for the knob wrapped in a Wii-mote silicone sleeve. Also adds some texture for better grip.

I might take an angle grinder to mine and reduce the weight massively, then just filt it down nice and use a mesh for the EMI and for some heat shielding.

rosedale · Sep 6, 2015

delloy said:
My LSV arrived the other day. One word. WOW! And at the price I got mine for @ £115 in the UK an absolute bargain! Was missing the stir tool/pick from the package but thats no biggie.

On the first heat up I used the included wand and got some huge and very tasty clouds, I was impressed dribbly and sweaty...haha.

I then tried it using an 18mm M/M through my FC-187v2 which I didnt like. I found the can too big for my tastes and would prefer something smaller with a bit more restriction. I have been using the CCG decycler which has been working nicely, but was wondering if anyone could recommend a nice small sized bubbler for use with the LSV.

The only thing Im disliking is the way the heater cover attaches to the unit. As many others have mentioned mine is also off centre and with my OCD this annoys me somewhat. Also I have to constantly adjust it so it fits snugly back up to the underside of the cap as everytime I invert it on my glass connection it eventually pushes the heater cover back down inside the unit causing it to rattle about slightly. Anybody have a fix for this?

I have tried adjusting the shim but it still wont hold firm and the method of pulling the heater cover out, so it just protrudes and then screwing on the end cap, but after a few uses it has shifted again! I see on the Super Surfer the shim has been altered and has a retaining clip to one side, would this work on an LSV and would it be possible to get hold of one as this issue is annoying me. Perhaps @Herb-nerd and a few of the experts here might be able to help me with some suggestions for a fix.

Looking forward to more experimentation and want to try the WPA too! Let me know soon as you have some in stock for UK peeps @Herb-nerd

Other than that......its Sunday so less chat more medication

I would be very interested in upgrading mine if the new setup worked on the LSV.

hoptimum · Sep 6, 2015

Tweak said:
Yeah I never had that issue until I started leaving mine on for hours at a time. Now it can get pretty hot.

I use a coozie with a hole punched for the knob wrapped in a Wii-mote silicone sleeve. Also adds some texture for better grip.

Do you have a picture of your LSV coozie?

Tweak · Sep 6, 2015

hoptimum said:
Do you have a picture of your LSV coozie?

As long as you don't make fun of my team,

hoptimum · Sep 6, 2015

Tweak said:
As long as you don't make fun of my team,

That's awesome

funkyjunky · Sep 7, 2015

just finished up some experiments.
i wired a thermocouple type K to an arduino and measured the load temperature with the lsv.

the thermocouple is placed inside a m2m adapter approximately in the middle of the load.

total setup:

plotted the data of a session with the lsv set to MINIMUM temperature and medium draw

as you can see the thermocouple measures temps above 220 °C, the abv was a nice brown,not black or anything. draw speed is difficult to keep constant, therefore the different maximal draw temperatures. i have reasons to believe the temperatures are measured accurately...room temp is correct and temperature of ice is 0°C. i will do a high temp measurement too but im too wrecked from all this experimenting. for science of course!

album: http://imgur.com/a/ZLQO9
thread on reddit.com: https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/3jzdbz/load_temperature_experiment_lsv_arduino_rlsv/

lwien · Sep 7, 2015

In regards to the LSV getting hot, one of the things that causes this is if the heating element is not pulled out far enough. If this happens, then a lot of the heat that is generated in that rod happens INSIDE the LSV. Just some food for thought.

Herb-nerd · Sep 7, 2015

funkyjunky said:
just finished up some experiments.
i wired a thermocouple type K to an arduino and measured the load temperature with the lsv.

the thermocouple is placed inside a m2m adapter approximately in the middle of the load.

total setup:

plotted the data of a session with the lsv set to MINIMUM temperature and medium draw

as you can see the thermocouple measures temps above 220 °C, the abv was a nice brown,not black or anything. draw speed is difficult to keep constant, therefore the different maximal draw temperatures. i have reasons to believe the temperatures are measured accurately...room temp is correct and temperature of ice is 0°C. i will do a high temp measurement too but im too wrecked from all this experimenting. for science of course!

album: http://imgur.com/a/ZLQO9
thread on reddit.com: https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/3jzdbz/load_temperature_experiment_lsv_arduino_rlsv/

Good work there!

hoptimum · Sep 7, 2015

funkyjunky said:
just finished up some experiments.
i wired a thermocouple type K to an arduino and measured the load temperature with the lsv.

the thermocouple is placed inside a m2m adapter approximately in the middle of the load.

total setup:

plotted the data of a session with the lsv set to MINIMUM temperature and medium draw

as you can see the thermocouple measures temps above 220 °C, the abv was a nice brown,not black or anything. draw speed is difficult to keep constant, therefore the different maximal draw temperatures. i have reasons to believe the temperatures are measured accurately...room temp is correct and temperature of ice is 0°C. i will do a high temp measurement too but im too wrecked from all this experimenting. for science of course!

album: http://imgur.com/a/ZLQO9
thread on reddit.com: https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/3jzdbz/load_temperature_experiment_lsv_arduino_rlsv/

Do you know how hot it gets when it's set to maximum temp?

funkyjunky · Sep 8, 2015

hoptimum said:
Do you know how hot it gets when it's set to maximum temp?

not yet

i even plan on combusting and measuring temp, for science...
maybe i can measure max temps later without load to avoid combustion.

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