The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

Marky said:

jb weld is what we want to use and not jb kwik

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Hey man, I'm pleased to see that we finally agree

That is, after all, exactly what I said to use in my original post . . .

VegNVape said:

Tried & tested JB Weld is the safer way to go for anyone looking to create their own mod.

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For the record, I never referred to JB Kwik nor implied that it would be suitable.

Anyway, I'm pleased to see that we are on the same page, in figurative and literal terms


Happy modding & safe vaping!

elmomuzz said:

I would tread carefully here. Storz and Bickel have in the past taken legal action against companies producing accessories for their products. Search for vriptech valloon storz bickel to learn more.

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And by all means, I will gladly oblige by any C&D I receive from any company.

In the footer section of every page on my store I clearly state I am an independent 3rd party accessory maker, and not affiliated with any manufacturer. I will obviously listen should any manufacturer see my products as unacceptable and request me to remove said products from my inventory.

Beauty of 3D printing is that I can keep very low inventory on hand, not like I need to dump thousands of dollars in unsold inventory

But good looking out, thanks for the heads up

elmomuzz said:

JB Weld works great. But do as you wish. But please don't negate my experience when yours is somewhat limited.

To me it feels like you are somehow trying to "make it better:. Which is fine but there is nothing wrong with how I have instructed folks to make them. You just didn't quite get it right.



Just for fun a thermal image of the device after a few strong pulls through the cooling unit.

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DUDE!!!! THANK YOU!!! Do you think you could PM me some more FLIR pictures of the mighty with the cooling unit removed, I'm curious to know what kind of heat we're dealing with around those threads for the CU.

(I have an entry level FLIR, but it's a much lower resolution than yours, that's for sure)

elmomuzz said:

JB Weld works great. But do as you wish. But please don't negate my experience when yours is somewhat limited.

To me it feels like you are somehow trying to "make it better:. Which is fine but there is nothing wrong with how I have instructed folks to make them. You just didn't quite get it right.



Just for fun a thermal image of the device after a few strong pulls through the cooling unit.

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I'm trying to make it better? How so? The jb kwik failed on me. If it didnt, I wouldn't be looking for another alternative. I'm sorry you feel that way though.

"Jb weld" is different from "jb kwik" as you have listed on your tutorial. I agree that jb weld is the preferred epoxy to use for this mod, but not the jb kwik as in your tutorial. I used jb kwik because its what you suggested but upon further research I found out its not that heat resistant actually. 300° is pretty low for vaporizers. Im pretty sure thats why my mod came apart. Now I'm looking for something better than jb kwik, that's all.

The tutorial I posted a few days ago was just to show members how easy it is to do because you scared many away with your torch. I got multiple pm's with "thank you" messages because I made people feel more comfortable to attempt it. That was my only intention. It had nothing to do with trying to be better than you. I don't understand why you think that.

My experience is limited with jb weld and jb kwik. Not sure what you tried to imply by that. A bit of research and I got the info I need on them though. It's not rocket science lol.

Jb kwik nor the loctite epoxy I used is adequate for this mod statistically speaking. I'm just hoping the temps won't reach too high for the loctite to fail but if it does I just got out of home depot with some original "jb weld" and I will be using that next.

-Mark

ive had and made many muzzmod with jb quik...like elmo I have had one fail and probably for same reason..but I always grab the plastic and not the glass when removing from the unit...

subway13029 said:

ive had and made many muzzmod with jb quik...like elmo I have had one fail and probably for same reason..but I always grab the plastic and not the glass when removing from the unit...

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The facts I posted in my earlier posts, which anyone can find with a quick search on google, conclude the jb kwik is not ideal since it's heat resistant up to 300°f. The jb weld is heat resistant to 500°f (600°f max). Knowing this, which one seems more logical to use? It has failed on 3 people (you and me included) just from what I know. Who knows how many more had theirs fail? We can only assume the cause, but we can't deny the facts.

I'm not trying to outsmart anyone but trying to determine why the bond failed on my mod. Upon investigating, I find out the jb kwik is rated at just 300°f. What am I supposed to think? If the loctite fails on me as well (rated 302°f short term) then what will that say?

Anyway, I just got home and checked out my PonG. The loctite is dry to touch but I can feel it's not cured yet. It's nowhere near as hard as it should be so I will let it sit out as long as it takes. Once it's cured I will put it to the test and post my results. I have the jb weld in hand now so I'm prepared to use it next. It will be my epoxy for future PonG adapters as well. It's rated at 500° f (600°f max short term) so there shouldn't be any heat issues with it whatsoever.





-Mark

VegNVape said:

Hey man, I'm pleased to see that we finally agree

That is, after all, exactly what I said to use in my original post . . .

For the record, I never referred to JB Kwik nor implied that it would be suitable.

Anyway, I'm pleased to see that we are on the same page, in figurative and literal terms


Happy modding & safe vaping!

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I forgot you mentioning that honestly lol but its evident you were correct. I was just following what was listed on the original tutorial. Had it been for me, I would have used the loctite I just used from the get lol. It would have been a mistake regardless but at least I learned from it. I'm glad I did my research and know what I know now. I should have a smooth sailing from now on...

Thank you for warning me btw lol

-Mark

@Marky dude, quit spamming the thread with pictures. Wikipedia? That can be edited by anyone. I previously posted links to manufacturer datasheets and pasted in the text detailing temperature ratings. We don't need huge images of the same information, what a pain this is on mobile.

@Ratchett Can't wait to see what you come up with, hope no C&D come your way!

@elmomuzz Cheers again for the original post on page 65! A version 2 posting should probably be updated to indicate the differences between 'weld' and 'kwik' to put any future discussion to bed. Though like you say below, kwik or weld, the heat on the epoxy itself should never get to that point.

I can also point out that the muzzmod adapter does not get very hot on the exterior surface. Never is it uncomfortable to touch. Well below 300 or even 150 degrees fahrenheit. My way isn't the only way but I again say it works just fine. I'm sorry yours broke.

BioSector said:

@Marky dude, quit spamming the thread with pictures. Wikipedia? That can be edited by anyone. I previously posted links to manufacturer datasheets and pasted in the text detailing temperature ratings. We don't need huge images of the same information, what a pain this is on mobile.

@Ratchett Can't wait to see what you come up with, hope no C&D come your way!

@elmomuzz Cheers again for the original post on page 65! A version 2 posting should probably be updated to indicate the differences between 'weld' and 'kwik' to put any future discussion to bed. Though like you say below, kwik or weld, the heat on the epoxy itself should never get to that point.

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I'm not spamming anything. Just posting facts. Your links back those facts up.

Sorry they bother you. Nothing I can do for you though, don't look I guess.

-Mark

elmomuzz said:

I can also point out that the muzzmod adapter does not get very hot on the exterior surface. Never is it uncomfortable to touch. Well below 300 or even 150 degrees fahrenheit. My way isn't the only way but I again say it works just fine. I'm sorry yours broke.

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That's what I was thinking. I will confirm this theory with my heat gun once the loctite has cured. I don't see it getting as hot as the set temp on the vape. I will post up my findings. Thanks.

-Mark

Marky said:

I'm not spamming anything. Just posting facts. Your links back those facts up.

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Posting duplicate information from a less reputable source is the definition of spam. Using pictures taken of Wikipedia to impart the info is just silly.

It's funny, you seem to ignore information from others until you "discover" it yourself.

BioSector said:

Posting duplicate information from a less reputable source is the definition of spam. Using pictures taken of Wikipedia to impart the info is just silly.

It's funny, you seem to ignore information from others until you "discover" it yourself.

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What's funny is how many of you love to assume things and make things up in your minds. Stop hating dude and hop off. You don't know what your talking about. Maybe you should mind your business and stop trolling. Don't throw this thread off topic.

Enjoy your day!

-Mark

Marky said:

What's funny is how many of you love to assume things and make things up in your minds. Stop hating dude and hop off. You don't know what your talking about. Maybe you should mind your business and stop trolling. Don't throw this thread off topic.

Enjoy your day!

-Mark

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Wow. I'm glad your post history can't be edited. It speaks for itself.

jeez you potheads are so passive aggressive, makes an aggressive alcoholic look like a carebear.
anyways!!!

i just received my mighty from warranty repairs. new housing, 2 minute shutoff(i timed 1:55~). for some reason they kept the old crusty bowl. don't know why? wonder if thats the standard. overall a week turn around and im excited to have my big boy back.

radiant34 said:

i just received my mighty from warranty repairs. new housing, 2 minute shutoff(i timed 1:55~). for some reason they kept the old crusty bowl. don't know why? wonder if thats the standard. overall a week turn around and im excited to have my big boy back.

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They did similar to my Mighty. Updated firmware and replaced housing around the bowl. Crafty was a brand new sealed replacement. Not sure what makes them decide lol.

BioSector said:

They did similar to my Mighty. Updated firmware and replaced housing around the bowl. Crafty was a brand new sealed replacement. Not sure what makes them decide lol.

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i mean for what its worth, im perfectly happy with my updated mighty. the sticker on the previous one was bothering my ocd badly haha.

also edit for some reason my # went down aswell it was 13404 now its 8081

radiant34 said:

i mean for what its worth, im perfectly happy with my updated mighty. the sticker on the previous one was bothering my ocd badly haha.

also edit for some reason my # went down aswell it was 13404 now its 8081

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I noticed something about my serial number too. It was lower than I expected based on reports of when new housing appeared. I guess they reuse serials that have come back for repair. Your OCD is going to get triggered anyway though, the new one will get beat up haha.

BioSector said:

@Marky dude, quit spamming the thread with pictures. Wikipedia? That can be edited by anyone. I previously posted links to manufacturer datasheets and pasted in the text detailing temperature ratings. We don't need huge images of the same information, what a pain this is on mobile.

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Marky said:

I'm not spamming anything. Just posting facts. Your links back those facts up.

Sorry they bother you. Nothing I can do for you though, don't look I guess.

-Mark

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BioSector said:

Posting duplicate information from a less reputable source is the definition of spam. Using pictures taken of Wikipedia to impart the info is just silly.

It's funny, you seem to ignore information from others until you "discover" it yourself.

Click to expand...

Marky said:

What's funny is how many of you love to assume things and make things up in your minds. Stop hating dude and hop off. You don't know what your talking about. Maybe you should mind your business and stop trolling. Don't throw this thread off topic.

Enjoy your day!

-Mark

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BioSector said:

Wow. I'm glad your post history can't be edited. It speaks for itself.

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Do not make negative comments or sarcastic remarks about someone else's posting style. If someone is breaking a rule, report the post and do not respond. If someone offends you and isn't breaking the rules, either respond with a PM or better yet, ignore it. This escalation is a classic example of why moderating should be left to moderators.

radiant34 said:

jeez you potheads are so passive aggressive, makes an aggressive alcoholic look like a carebear.

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I realize that you are being sarcastic and trying to lighten the mood, but some people won't see it that way. Please don't do that.

@elmomuzz hey Elmo, what do you use to clean your muzzmod? I'm guessing ISO is bad for the epoxy. Warm soapy water would work but then what about reclaim?

Cheers

For routine cleaning I dunk mine in straight iso and rinse with hot water. So far no issues after countless cleanings.

When I initially made it I cleaned the parts with dish detergent and water.

Ratchett said:

And by all means, I will gladly oblige by any C&D I receive from any company.

In the footer section of every page on my store I clearly state I am an independent 3rd party accessory maker, and not affiliated with any manufacturer. I will obviously listen should any manufacturer see my products as unacceptable and request me to remove said products from my inventory.

Beauty of 3D printing is that I can keep very low inventory on hand, not like I need to dump thousands of dollars in unsold inventory

But good looking out, thanks for the heads up





DUDE!!!! THANK YOU!!! Do you think you could PM me some more FLIR pictures of the mighty with the cooling unit removed, I'm curious to know what kind of heat we're dealing with around those threads for the CU.

(I have an entry level FLIR, but it's a much lower resolution than yours, that's for sure)

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Don't worry we won't tell on you. I wish you'd make one.

FOOTBALL SEASON! GO BIG OR GO HOME!! (and use herbie)

Now that I've got a muzzmod think I need to look for a small tube like that! Nice setup you've got there!

BioSector said:

Now that I've got a muzzmod think I need to look for a small tube like that! Nice setup you've got there!

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tube is for the inh05s unless you mean the swagger side tree

What is that beside the SonG??

biohacker said:

What is that beside the SonG??

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Inh05s water tool adapter

ShayWhiteGrow said:

Inh05s water tool adapter

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I recognize your Vatra cases. I'm a fan