Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

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Princess of the Biscotti Republic

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
So I ordered the fc2000 1/8th ceramic wicks, a separate atomizer for strictly e - juice (might as well kick the habit since I got a mod) and some 0.5mm sweetspot titanium wire from them. Has anyone used this brand of wire before? Figured it would be best to order from one place since I'm on a time crunch. I would love to have my setup finished before I leave to go to california for a month...i got oils to try! Will report back.
Thanks for all the help yall
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
My green KangXin 50W mini VF arrived while I was out of town. The green is dark and elegant, quite a change from typical Chinese colors.

This one shipped from England. The previous one from Holland. Rather strange.

I never thought I'd say this but the flashlight function is brilliant. While traveling I had many occasions to appreciate having a bright LED light in my pocket at all times, along with my vape, like when losing the keys, looking for an address, etc.

I'm not sure about 90 degrees F being the universal offset when using Titanium wire on a TC device with a Nickel curve. It's best calibrated on each device. Using the cotton singe test is useful, but hopefully we come up with a fast way to check more than a single temperature point.

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working4buddha

New Member
I've been using this Evil Monk postless RDA with ReadyXWick for the past several weeks and have barely even touched my torch since building this thing.

I made a smaller coil by half a rotation after this pic that works even better. Have it all the way down to 8-9W on the Smok Xpro pictured and somewhere above 15w on an iStick 40w.

It's is definitely a bit high maintenance but I've just been taking a pinch of wax and smearing it on there. The coil sometimes slips out of place and makes contact where it shouldn't but I can usually just adjust it and get it working again without tools.

I really want to learn how to optimize this and understand the electric math involved. I have to build a new one tomorrow so I'll post more info then.

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working4buddha

New Member
I made a new coil today which is smaller by one rotation from the pic, but the new one is not really pretty enough to take a photo. I'm using 24 awg wire now, it seems a little sturdier than the 26 awg I used previously, which would bend too much after use. I have it down to 7.5w now and could probably go lower and still get a great hit. Running at .2 ohm and 3.3v.

That is the part I'm confused about. I made a coil before this one that I messed up but it was at 1.8 ohm or something. But it wasn't fitting right so I tried to trim it and messed it up. I don't think my old one was this low but it was probably .4 or .5 ohm. Maybe it was so high because something was messed up.

I don't know if I want higher or lower ohm (well can't get much lower I guess) or what the best wattage is. All I know is that it works great, I was back to using my torch and nail the past day or so and this RDA is actually a better one hit quitter! I feel like the hit is more direct than being filtered through water somehow.

The stovetop coil with ReadyXWick makes application really easy esp with wax you can pinch in your fingers without sticking. I'm going to study this thread and maybe try some other techniques but this seems to have a great power + ease of use combo.
 

2clicker

Observer
@working4buddha... we have a name for an RXW sleeved stovetop. its called a Diamond Back Coil or "DBC". so when you read this thread you will see DBC used. just a heads up.

when building coils for vv/vw devices the ohms are more important. it resistance and wattage settings will determine how fast the coil heats up. you dont really want your wire to glow red hot. mainly because it causes oxidation of the wire of which may be toxic enough to be of concern. so because of that the idea is to build a coil that will ramp up slowly so you can fire it longer than normal before the coil starts to glow. this can be achieved, but it takes some finesse to get the technique down.

your other option is to buy a temp controlled mod and as long as your coil resistance is between the devices rating to temp control setting then the rest is not very important. basically you set it to your desired temp and can fire away. if the device works properly then your coil will never get close to hot enough to glow.

oh and if your coil is glowing when you are using it then you are over heating your dab. not insinuating this it what you are doing. just stating it out loud.

i know its a daunting task, but read this thread front to back. you will love it and be happy you did.

hope this helps!
 

working4buddha

New Member
Thanks for the info. I did have an iStick 40w TC but lost it this weekend. I didn't use it on temp mode because I'm using kanthal but it did heat up a lot slower at a higher wattage and was a smoother hit. I'm looking at the Smok XCube 2 too.

The red in the pic was when I was burning the wick right after I installed it so it was at a hotter temp than I use it at. But this new one is glowing redder than my old one even at low wattage. Not sure if it's the different awg wire or the size of the coil. And like I said the ohms were higher, I think one of the ones I built was at .8 or .9 which was probably the other wire. I didn't realize it wasn't supposed to glow red, but until this coil mine weren't glowing red unless I turned it up to clean the wick.

I definitely plan on reading this whole thread. I am pretty sure my buddy who taught me all of this had used this thread as a resource. We were using Marquis style atomizers with a flattened Z shaped wick before the Evil Monk came out, which worked well but was a bit messier and harder to pack. I love the freedom this RDA gives. Thanks for explaining the DBC term, hadn't seen that.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Got my ceramic wick and ti wire...went for the blind wrap and fire...nothing. I mean the dab I placed in top melted, but I got little vapor and no clouds or effects
...i wrapped the Ti wire directly around the ceramic wick.
Any suggestions?
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2clicker

Observer
Got my ceramic wick and ti wire...went for the blind wrap and fire...nothing. I mean the dab I placed in top melted, but I got little vapor and no clouds or effects
...i wrapped the Ti wire directly around the ceramic wick.
Any suggestions?
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this is almost exactly how my set im using right now looks. except the wire coils the entire length of the wick. your wick that doesnt have wire around it will hold oil and it wont vape. my suggestion would be to wrap the entire length of the wick.

to explain why you arent gettin clouds... i have no idea. the ONLY thing i can think of is that this wick is still so clean and empty. saturate it really well the first time. after that you should be able to load it like normal. so essentially im suggesting to "prime" the wick.

i use this setup on an evic. settings are .5ohms, 30watts, and set at 520F. and it hits well and tastes amazing. if i want clouds i set it to 550-580F. then it RIPS like a madman.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
this is almost exactly how my set im using right now looks. except the wire coils the entire length of the wick. your wick that doesnt have wire around it will hold oil and it wont vape. my suggestion would be to wrap the entire length of the wick.

to explain why you arent gettin clouds... i have no idea. the ONLY thing i can think of is that this wick is still so clean and empty. saturate it really well the first time. after that you should be able to load it like normal. so essentially im suggesting to "prime" the wick.

i use this setup on an evic. settings are .5ohms, 30watts, and set at 520F. and it hits well and tastes amazing. if i want clouds i set it to 550-580F. then it RIPS like a madman.
Figured out what the problem was...i wasn't resetting the ohms when attaching my atomizer.
It always read 0.16 on ohms when in tc mode. If I built something close to that it would work well, but bigger coils only worked (well) on power mode.
After google searching I figured out that I needed to press the fire and down button at the same time on my seigeli 75w to reset the ohm meter.
After doing that it read 1.5 ohms in tc and actually works!
@2clicker thanks for all your help man, your amazing!
 

2clicker

Observer
Figured out what the problem was...i wasn't resetting the ohms when attaching my atomizer.
It always read 0.16 on ohms when in tc mode. If I built something close to that it would work well, but bigger coils only worked (well) on power mode.
After google searching I figured out that I needed to press the fire and down button at the same time on my seigeli 75w to reset the ohm meter.
After doing that it read 1.5 ohms in tc and actually works!
@2clicker thanks for all your help man, your amazing!

great news! glad to hear you are up and running.

im far from amzing. at least dont tell my boss or wife. then they will expect that all the time.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
great news! glad to hear you are up and running.

im far from amzing. at least dont tell my boss or wife. then they will expect that all the time.
It will stay an fc secret! But seriously...you helped me figure out the right mod, wire, wicking and method to get ALMOST (I still have to fine tune) nail like results!
That shit is amazing! Plus you had patience for a noob...Also a plus.
My girlfriend already complains about the time I spend on fuckcombustion, your helping minimize it to a degree.
 

working4buddha

New Member
I got my Evil Monk DBC back to a more normal range, .6-.7 ohm depending on wattage, which is still all the way down to 6-8w. I'm back to the 26awg but will try the 24awg again. The problem was probably just the length of the wire. I was trying to make a smaller coil to begin with, and sometimes the wick was sliding while making the coil at the bend and it would fray from being sliced by the wire, so I'd trim off a few MMs and eventually it just got too small and was at .1-.2 ohms and getting red way too fast. Now it takes a couple extra seconds which is far smoother, and doesn't get red unless I turn it up.

This is more like what I had before (still slightly smaller than the pic above). Taste and power are both incredible right now. Next I want to continue trying with 24awg or maybe even 22 to make a sturdier build. But right now I can basically pinch a glob and drop or smear it on there depending on what I'm vaping, and can put enough on for 3-4 hits, probably a few more if I wanted.

There are now generic Evil Monk style RDAs for around $10. This thing is really great. It would be good if it were a little taller to fit a cup or something, and the coil is always slightly off-center because of where the leads go (I have yet to get it centered better than that first pic), but other than that it is so easy to build on.
 

2clicker

Observer
I got my Evil Monk DBC back to a more normal range, .6-.7 ohm depending on wattage, which is still all the way down to 6-8w. I'm back to the 26awg but will try the 24awg again. The problem was probably just the length of the wire. I was trying to make a smaller coil to begin with, and sometimes the wick was sliding while making the coil at the bend and it would fray from being sliced by the wire, so I'd trim off a few MMs and eventually it just got too small and was at .1-.2 ohms and getting red way too fast. Now it takes a couple extra seconds which is far smoother, and doesn't get red unless I turn it up.

This is more like what I had before (still slightly smaller than the pic above). Taste and power are both incredible right now. Next I want to continue trying with 24awg or maybe even 22 to make a sturdier build. But right now I can basically pinch a glob and drop or smear it on there depending on what I'm vaping, and can put enough on for 3-4 hits, probably a few more if I wanted.

There are now generic Evil Monk style RDAs for around $10. This thing is really great. It would be good if it were a little taller to fit a cup or something, and the coil is always slightly off-center because of where the leads go (I have yet to get it centered better than that first pic), but other than that it is so easy to build on.

cut a piece of RXW about 1.5"-2" and wrap a DBC with that. that always got me a coil about 1/4"-3/8" in diameter and seemed perfect for me.

the shorter the wire the lower the resistance will be.

I got some 28g ti1 in today and with 10 wraps around 1/8" wick came to .55 ohms.. Back in biz...

Thanks guys.

that is about exactly where my current coil is and i love it. nice work!
 

Rattails

New Member
Hey guys , I am brand new to the forum and also to RDA/RBA vaping. I have been dabing with a torch for a long time but now needed something mobile and more efficient . I tried buying prebuilt globes/attachments and was using a Seego - Vhit for a while but just wasn't fulfilling my needs so looked into something better and stumbled upon this thread. I already had a iStick 50w so I went down to my local vape shop after reading through here and got them to help me whip something up since this is all new to me. This is what we built . Its a iStick 50w like I said with a Airek mod. I told him I wanted it to be about .5 ohms but when I got home and started playing with it the ohms jump around a lot! From anywhere to .5 - 1.7 and sometimes my battery shorts (which I got warned might just couldnt afford a new piece at the time. I am using organic cotton as wick and often get a burntish taste often and I do let the concentrates melt onto the coil/wick and sometimes even prime with ejuice. I just don't get anywhere near those big hauls like I want that I can produce with my torch and nail. Any help with this?

Thanks and sorry if I missed anything !

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Hyphy

Karma
sorry if I missed anything

Like the last 80 pages of this thread? :rofl:

Seriously though, you found the right thread now it's time to read and find what works best for you. Some of the more popular designs are right on this page, a stovetop coil inside of readyxwick and coil wrapped fc2000 ceramic wick. There's no silver bullet as everyone has different wants/needs, but at a minimum get rid of the cotton if you want dab like operation since high temps are needed for concentrates and cotton burns at high temp.
 

Rattails

New Member
I have a silica wick that I replaced over the cotton and has been working a little better . I just don't even know where to begin with all the pages since they all look so different and I am very unfamiliar with the builds . Does it seem like my temperature I'm burning at / ohms / vws seem about right though ?
 

2clicker

Observer
Which RDA is this?

thats a "stumpy"



@Rattails... welcome aboard. i would suggest getting yourself a device with Temp Control abilities. new ones are popping up like crazy every week and the prices come down quick. i just pulled the trigger on a Joyetech Evic VTC tonight myself. its a preorder though. got it HERE FOR $44 SHIPPED w/ code 9s58D5038p. also invest in some Titanium wire and ceramic wick. as Hyphy said ReadyXWick is a braided ceramic wick that works well. its like a hollow string that can be torched clean and reused. or check out FC-2000. its a rigid, but porous ceramic wick that is another great choice. but before you do read this thread up and down and check out the different builds. or at least the last 20-30 pages. lots of good stuff in there.
 

Rattails

New Member
I have done some reading and have ordered some Titanium Grade 2 wire as well as some ceramic wicks (FC-2000). I am ordering a TC unit next week (Thinking the Evic-VT) i just want to plan things out before I do . When I get my TC piece what would be a good ohm/vw/ temp setting to burn at once have it to prevent any dangers with the Ti wire and to get the best hit with my concentrates? Would like to know before I experiment and play with things to avoid waste .

Thanks! Trying to learn . brand new to the RBA stuff .

(I shouldn't try my wire and wicks on my iStick 50w should I ? With what I have read I shouldn't since its not a TC unit correct ?)
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
Wecome aboard. On non TC units its hard to control the heat on Nickel and Titanium 0.1-0.3 ohm typical resistances, you'll probably burn the wire, the wick, the house ;-) Best to do that on a TC device. A good starting point with Titanium is to use the steam engine calculator with your exact Titanium wire and wind a 0.3 ohm coil. Then set temp to around 300 deg F, it will heat closer to 400 deg F. Set it to where it will barely singe a piece of cotton.

The Heatvape Invader Mini and the KangXin Mini VF are IMHO superior, as they allow setting wattage even when running in TC mode. That gives you the ability to control the rate at which the coil reaches target temperature. They are also better made than the eLeaf iSticks and use a chargeable / replaceable battery. I have dropped my KangXins a dozen times onto a tough floor and dented the floor without even the switches rattling. The Heatvapes are legendary-rugged and use the same chip.
 
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2clicker

Observer
@Rattails... fernands recommendation for the steam engine calculator is def a good one. as are the suggestions for TC mods, but i do not see how adjusting wattage when in TC mode is really an advantage of which opens up your options for a TC device.

i always thought the point of a slow "ramp up" was to eliminate burning dabs. so when in TC mode, a slow ramp up is not beneficial from what i can tell. if anything i want the coil to get to my set temp as quickly as possible. and honestly when in TC mode i couldnt notice any difference between 30W vs 60W. all i know is that the coil wont get too hot. and thats all i really care about.

@fernand... do you like the wattage adjustment in TC mode so you can turn the watts up? to get the coil to your set temp even quicker? or is it to slow the ramp down in TC mode? im curious.

oh and @Rattails... btw if you are eyeing the Evic VT you may want to wait it out for the new VTC coming soon. its the same device, but smaller, replaceable cell, and has firmware upgradability. overall a better device than the standard VT. still a couple of weeks away from shipping though.
 
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