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Open Source Glass Thread

digigator

Well-Known Member
Is there any way to ask steven to shrink the straight fab egg for a new version of it? 14 mm female joint. Same design except more slits on the perc below. Maybe a little over or at 8 inch tall. Same bent beck but just a bit more bent to be vertically aligned. Just wondering. Would be cool if somebody did a mock up of this.

Steven/Jane told me a 200mm tall one was in the works, I asked again about a week ago and they confirmed it was still in the works.
 
digigator,

digigator

Well-Known Member
:shrug:
Personally I'd rather see a larger straight fab than a smaller one...

It has a pretty tiny volume already... :2c:

But there does seem to be a bit of demand for a smaller one... :hmm:

In my opinion, the function of the fab holes is to reduce volume because less volume is desirable when dabbing. More volume is actually most efficiently achieved by removing the fab :). In shortening the straight fab, we're looking for a piece with the volume of a minirig that forces me to shove my face into the table, without actually having to shove my face into anything.

But if you want a larger fab just for aesthetics purposes then that's a different story, it would look cool! :spliff:
 

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
In my opinion, the function of the fab holes is to reduce volume because less volume is desirable when dabbing. More volume is actually most efficiently achieved by removing the fab :). In shortening the straight fab, we're looking for a piece with the volume of a minirig that forces me to shove my face into the table, without actually having to shove my face into anything.

But if you want a larger fab just for aesthetics purposes then that's a different story, it would look cool! :spliff:
If the aim is just a straight fab with the fab section as low as possible to the perc, then I am entirely down for that.

I've always considered the faberge section of eggs/the straight to be acting like a Swiss perc - the holes are additional points for bubbles to split up and the lowered volume allows bubbles to stack higher, which prolongs water contact.

I honestly wouldn't consider a straight fab without the fab worth anything...
It's a fairly simple perc, and without the fab section, there's nothing appealing about the piece Imo.
(Edit: stevens straight fab that is, the real MS has that nifty laser cut perc :))

I just keep seeing people saying they want a smaller straight fab - and as it is at the moment, it has a really small volume - less volume than a lot of mini rigs...

If I could have the same sort of function in a larger piece, I'd be down (it'd be more of a vape piece than an oils piece then)...
As I see it now, it's small enough that reducing the volume further wouldn't really add anything to it, but a larger one would be distinct enough to be more of a flowers rig...
:shrug:

Have you guys wanting a smaller one actually used stevens current straight fab?
Or are you wanting a smaller one based in pics?
 
Frederick McGuire,
If the aim is just a straight fab with the fab section as low as possible to the perc, then I am entirely down for that.

I've always considered the faberge section of eggs/the straight to be acting like a Swiss perc - the holes are additional points for bubbles to split up and the lowered volume allows bubbles to stack higher, which prolongs water contact.

I honestly wouldn't consider a straight fab without the fab worth anything...
It's a fairly simple perc, and without the fab section, there's nothing appealing about the piece Imo.
(Edit: stevens straight fab that is, the real MS has that nifty laser cut perc :))

I just keep seeing people saying they want a smaller straight fab - and as it is at the moment, it has a really small volume - less volume than a lot of mini rigs...

If I could have the same sort of function in a larger piece, I'd be down (it'd be more of a vape piece than an oils piece then)...
As I see it now, it's small enough that reducing the volume further wouldn't really add anything to it, but a larger one would be distinct enough to be more of a flowers rig...
:shrug:

Have you guys wanting a smaller one actually used stevens current straight fab?
Or are you wanting a smaller one based in pics?
I agree bro. I have the straight and its already small. Hell it'll even give you a sip if not careful its so small. Fred maybe we are heavy hitters! I just sold that FC 707 and my Diamond Glass Ball rig. I'm waiting on Steve to post his ball rig so i can buy That and the 1000!!
 

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
I've been talking to Steven and trying to get him to produce a propeller perc piece. Like this one:


stevenlmz79 2015-07-29 11:21


my friend,if produce this piece,must know how about the air flaw and perc structure,otherwise it will not be in a good function.

jane

She(?) says that she needs to know how the airflow would work. I really need help in telling her how that piece flows air. I'm thinking it's something like this

Fab%20Straight%20Propeller_zps26ajmufy.jpg


And I will send that image I drew to her if I can't find a better diagram of the perc. I don't even know if it has multiple holes like that, that's just what I thought would work best. But again, I don't know. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
thisperson,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
I’d imagine that they are going to mess up a few times when trying to make them, but like anything once they’ve gotten experience they will get better at it.

I’m willing to be the guinea pig and report my findings to you guys.
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I've been talking to Steven and trying to get him to produce a propeller perc piece. Like this one:




She(?) says that she needs to know how the airflow would work. I really need help in telling her how that piece flows air. I'm thinking it's something like this

Fab%20Straight%20Propeller_zps26ajmufy.jpg


And I will send that image I drew to her if I can't find a better diagram of the perc. I don't even know if it has multiple holes like that, that's just what I thought would work best. But again, I don't know. Your help is greatly appreciated.


Problem is, how does the propeller stay attached in your design - turn the piece over and the prop would fall right off, smashing everything inside to pieces during shipping.

Look at the design of the original propeller:
maxresdefault.jpg


Note how the airpath travels down and then out of the propellers (with a small cup shape welded to the base to hold a nub on the propeller in place), your design has the airpath going up into the propeller
 

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
Huh, you're right.

On that picture and in this video


You can see that there is a rod across the very last bit of the down stem. That holds the propeller in place!

Edit: Across the very bottom. It looks like a rod and is travelling through the percolator/down stem.
 
thisperson,
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_WaxPayne_

Well-Known Member
I posted three vids and 7 pics of the propeller on stevens page last week. Jane wanted more detailed pics of the perc but I can't find any unless I buy the OG piece from Pukinbeagle.
 
_WaxPayne_,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
Ouch, that's 600 dollars.

I think we should try our luck with china. I mean, we can ask them to keep trying until they get a good function vid, right?

I contacted another seller and they told me to send them sample pics. So I sent a few vids some pics and my hand drawing of exactly how I wanted it.

They then told me how many?

I'm guessing they can produce this piece.

Their store is here: http://www.dhgate.com/store/20013597#st-navigation-storehome

THey say they are the manufacturer. Hopefully they get it right. I told them I wanted one.

Pfglass is their name.
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
You can see that there is a rod across the very last bit of the down stem. That holds the propeller in place!

Edit: Across the very bottom. It looks like a rod and is travelling through the percolator/down stem.

Actually to me, it looks like the propeller has a glass nub on the bottom of it that sits inside a cup shape. This allows the propeller to spin freely, but still easy for the glassblower to assemble while working with hot glass
 

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
Here I highlighted them in red.

This rod is what I'm talking about.

maxresdefault_zps3kx5muno.jpg


I'd say it sits outside the chamber of the concave/curved propeller chamber.

What are you talking about? Also it appears to only have two holes. It's a two hole perc.
 
thisperson,
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Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Here I highlighted them in red.

This rod is what I'm talking about.

maxresdefault_zps3kx5muno.jpg


I'd say it sits outside the chamber of the concave/curved propeller chamber.

What are you talking about? Also it appears to only have two holes. It's a two hole perc.


What I'm saying is the section I highlighted in red is all one piece. The part highlighted in blue is the 'cup' welded to the base, used to hold the perc in place

JHpXc50.jpg
 

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
What I'm saying is the section I highlighted in red is all one piece. The part highlighted in blue is the 'cup' welded to the base, used to hold the perc in place

JHpXc50.jpg

I got another message from Jane and didn't know what to reply when she asked how the perc was held in place. I was so sure it was a glass rod. Thank you for pointing this out. I will send her this pic. Thank you.
 
thisperson,

CG420

Over the horizon u can see the edges of the Earth
ddRRYIj.jpg


This one looks like it only has one opening to the downstem towards the propeller exit holes.
 
CG420,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
ddRRYIj.jpg


This one looks like it only has one opening to the downstem towards the propeller exit holes.

Yeah I think that's what Jane is asking about right now.

Yes,I see the holder..

if the perc is rotation,how to install teh up tube and perc,so that air can't run out besides the hole of perc?

jane

I think it's because the glass propeller is concave on the inside where it connects to the downstem. That's what it looked like to me at least. Anyone know for sure what it is? Obviously there needs to be an airpath in the spinning part...
 
thisperson,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
I don't think they will be able to make it. Jane messaged me asking how this piece was installed.

I think she means how is the piece put inside of the glass.

other_1089992802_00_zpsyoczbbn3.jpg


My friend,I still not enought understand becasue there have water.pls find my question in hereenclosed pic.thanks

jane

Anyone know how to pull the rabbit out of the hat. I'm stumped.
 
thisperson,

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
I don't think they will be able to make it. Jane messaged me asking how this piece was installed.


Anyone know how to pull the rabbit out of the hat. I'm stumped.

Starting with the hollow tube, you weld the stem in place, then you slide on spinner, then you attach the base, which has the 'cup' already welded on.

Alternatively, you could install the base to the hollow tube, weld the perc stem/axle in place (only a straight pipe running verticle in the middle of the can), slide on spinner, weld in place, then connect the remainder of the stem at the internal elbow of the perc stem/axle.

It would depend on the intended airflow design, I would guess it would take a decent amount of trial and error to figure it out too.

_____

As to how you seal the prop at the axle, the picture of the slime bubbler shows how this is done, those air bubbles that can be seen inside the prop seal the small gap and get trapped there due to pressure after a rip. This would probably tend the flowing air to the less restrictive flow of the propeller-end-jets. These perc holes would have a sweet spot between propulsion and being too small for the perc to function which would be super hard to calculate, perhaps.
I think this is the case anyway, you can see in some of the function videos very small air leaks form at the axle, so it isn't air tight, just creates a very small gap and a shape that plays well with the viscosity of water (ie. top of teardrop shape)

_____

One more thing I will add, if you want the prop to be above the downstem, like in your initial drawing, you could have a central rod extending from the centre of the base, running through the downpipe perpendicularly, through the axle of the propeller and capped at the top with the hub to hold the prop down.
That way you wouldn't need an unorthodox stem line, it would just become a very fancy inline perc.
 
Last edited:
MoltenTiger,

MilkyMondays

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure that's what makes this piece so awesome-- you have to install the propeller while the glass is still in the torch. You need a really fine oxidizing flame, and you need to be precise as not to melt the propeller to the rod it spins on.
 
MilkyMondays,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
Starting with the hollow tube, you weld the stem in place, then you slide on spinner, then you attach the base, which has the 'cup' already welded on.

Alternatively, you could install the base to the hollow tube, weld the perc stem/axle in place (only a straight pipe running verticle in the middle of the can), slide on spinner, weld in place, then connect the remainder of the stem at the internal elbow of the perc stem/axle.

It would depend on the intended airflow design, I would guess it would take a decent amount of trial and error to figure it out too.

_____

As to how you seal the prop at the axle, the picture of the slime bubbler shows how this is done, those air bubbles that can be seen inside the prop seal the small gap and get trapped there due to pressure after a rip. This would probably tend the flowing air to the less restrictive flow of the propeller-end-jets. These perc holes would have a sweet spot between propulsion and being too small for the perc to function which would be super hard to calculate, perhaps.
I think this is the case anyway, you can see in some of the function videos very small air leaks form at the axle, so it isn't air tight, just creates a very small gap and a shape that plays well with the viscosity of water (ie. top of teardrop shape)

_____

One more thing I will add, if you want the prop to be above the downstem, like in your initial drawing, you could have a central rod extending from the centre of the base, running through the downpipe perpendicularly, through the axle of the propeller and capped at the top with the hub to hold the prop down.
That way you wouldn't need an unorthodox stem line, it would just become a very fancy inline perc.

I will send this to Jane. Thanks.
 
thisperson,
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