Aromazap/Myrtlezap/CeramicRockZap

rotax · Aug 18, 2011

Purchased my MZap in June 2009. A bit over 2 years ago.
Its been on for prob. ~75% of that time.

Mine has been subjected too a bit too much heat tbh, I forgot an aluminum 'cozy' over the top of it over night...it baked all night.
It smelled in the room of a burnt/woody aroma..
It blackened the top of the unit a bit.
It was most likely due to this, that it began to crack around the heat port area.
It has the typical rattle..(which occured before the 'over heating' scenario).
It works just fine, vapor + intoxication.

The RockZap definitely sounds like the route to go.
Looking forward to more feedback as production continues.
A more consistant temp and heat retention would be very welcome in these log units.
For multi-user situations, and cold/cooler environments.

I think I'd have to wait too long for my unit to completely die...so may be looking into another at some point in the future..
Hmm...but I really want a portable, MFLB too...

Thanks Rick for a great product, and for continuing to advance it!
Keep it up!

HighSti · Aug 18, 2011

So I normally hate shooting pictures with artificial lighting but I had to take these pictures last night because today I moved. The zap is BEAUTIFUL. Thanks again rick. She rips like a champ, very smooth and thick vapor.

At the bottom, the zap next to my Alder PD pandora.. that thing has been through hell and back, obvious by looking at it. Did me well but now this SSS is just something special.

No polish on it in the pictures.. but just put some on.

collegerower · Aug 18, 2011

Man that is a great looking zap! Could you possibly comment on comparing the pd vs the new SSS?

djonkoman · Aug 18, 2011

biojuggernaut said:
might be stepping outside of my knowledge threshold here but I assume (clears throat) the "rock" will also be held in by the tube for the ac plug since it goes through both the cement and exterior. Plus not to mention Rick can bore the wood exterior to the exact caliber since this new filler is much more resilient to the variances that expanding and contracting can cause; especially over a large period of time.

I don't know if the inside of the zap is similar to the pd, but if it is(wich seems likely to me), the rock probably doesn't go untill the AC-plug(I put together a pandora pd, and if you just take the wooden 'log', there's a hole in the top for the heat exchanger, and a room at the bottom where the wires go into the ac-plug, between these 2 rooms there's still wood, with 2 holes for the wires, and 2 for screws)

guardian · Aug 18, 2011

just placed my order for a claro walnut sss zap, though i didnt see notes to seller to get an extra stem but its fine because the best deal going includes a glass tooty. will give my impression when it arrives as it will be my first log vape.

lwien · Aug 18, 2011

collegerower said:
Man that is a great looking zap! Could you possibly comment on comparing the pd vs the new SSS?

So the question is, how do we do this kind of comparison without raising the ire from the other camp. Comparing the PD to the Zap in a Zap thread could really create some drama just as comparing the PD to the new Zap in the PD thread would cause the exact same thing. Both of these vapes have some very passionate and dedicated owners and things can spin out of control very easy.

My suggestion rather than to do these kinds of comparisons in either camps threads would be to start a new one dedicated to this comparison, or just ask this question in one of these threads so that the ensuing drama won't dilute either the PD or the Zap threads.

http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=4604
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=4313
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=5235

steiner666 · Aug 18, 2011

Had another friend try my SSS zap :lol:

. He was blown away and said he likes it way more than my walnut wdz. I do too, but he seemed to think there was more of a difference than even i do lol. He was very much amazed at the size of the first 3 hits especially. and everyones always impressed with the uniqueness, smoothness and smell (and warmth) of the wood on the zap.

i brought the day to the end with an ABV QWISO goo tipped stem that lasted a good 20-30 draws :ko:

i loaded stem half way with some pretty good herb, rolled a little ball of goo and put it in there on top, making sure it didnt fill stem to the brim or over (i shoot for about 70-80% stem capacity to leave some extra room), and that it wasnt so big that it plugged it up completely. It really got going after a couple draws, i could clearly taste the difference from when it was just the herb below it vaping a bit and the first hit where the goo was putting off vapor. In between hits i would lay my zap down on its side with the stem still in, to maintain heat on the goo with conduction without the worry of it gunking up the screen in the zap.

awesome experience all-around :brow:

slept like a baby... er well maybe thats not the best analogy, since they definitely dont sleep all that well :mad:

lol

SirElton · Aug 18, 2011

lwien said:
collegerower said:

Man that is a great looking zap! Could you possibly comment on comparing the pd vs the new SSS?

Click to expand...

So the question is, how do we do this kind of comparison without raising the ire from the other camp. Comparing the PD to the Zap in a Zap thread could really create some drama just as comparing the PD to the new Zap in the PD thread would cause the exact same thing. Both of these vapes have some very passionate and dedicated owners and things can spin out of control very easy.

My suggestion rather than to do these kinds of comparisons in either camps threads would be to start a new one dedicated to this comparison, or just ask this question in one of these threads so that the ensuing drama won't dilute either the PD or the Zap threads.

http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=4604
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=4313
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=5235

I understand what you are saying and agree that things like this could escalate, but I see nothing wrong with collegerower's request. I'm sure a few others on this forum would agree that HighSti's quick opinion on the matter would be beneficial. Curiosity is the driving force here. It can kill the cat, but it doesn't start wars.

lwien · Aug 18, 2011

SirElton said:
I understand what you are saying and agree that things like this could escalate, but I see nothing wrong with collegerower's request. I'm sure a few others on this forum would agree that HighSti's quick opinion on the matter would be beneficial. Curiosity is the driving force here. It can kill the cat, but it doesn't start wars.

Elton, you just haven't been around here long enough to understand the drama that such a question can cause. I agree that the question is valid as I myself would be interested in what he has to say, but curiosity between comparing the PD's to the Zaps have indeed, started wars. Just read through the past few pages in this thread and you can see the passion and dedication that Zap owners have, so if HighSti says the new Zap is better than the PD, there will be some PD owners who may come to the PD's defense and then we're all off to the races.......................again.

Hell, I was called a "truther" just for asking a few questions here. And I have no doubt that if someone came into the PD thread questioning the PD, the exact same thing would happen there.

Just a word to the wise guys. In my opinion, this comparison, if done at all, should be in another thread other than manufacture specific threads such as this.

HighSti · Aug 18, 2011

So yes, I posted the pictures without saying much when I would have typically compared them.. I was just trying to avoid that rock slide lwien is talking about. If you guys wanted a Pd-old mz-sss comparison review I would be more then willing say something if the thread was created. Both vapes are functional and get me vaked. My opinions are not shared by everyone, its honestly all about your personal tastes and needs.

kewpcer · Aug 18, 2011

They're your vapes dude. Right now you're the man. Post up a thread and give us your thoughts. Don't worry about the rockslide. I'm sure it'll be chaperoned well.

HighSti · Aug 18, 2011

So originally I bought the PD over the zap because of the stainless steel. I loved the stainless, the vape ripped very well. Well when I heard of Ricks new heatport design, Just thought id add one to my collection.

For the SSS I can defiantly say this thing is incredible. Seems to run slightly hotter then the PD, again this would be a preference thing.

The myrtle wood is far more dense then the alder, so just depends what you like.

The new screen in the SSS is really nice, stainless of course

The stems fit tighter in the zap then the PD, fact-but really is all about preference.

Darkfin technology is now a quite different variation of log vapes from the sss, it would be like comparing apples and oranges.

kewpcer · Aug 18, 2011

I know my brass zap has a discernible heat drop during hard use, and it's been said that the new solid SS design alleviates that. I've heard that the PD was a bit better than the brass Zap at delivering heat longer under use. How do the SSS and PD compare heat retention wise? I mean if you're actively ripping a stem over and over do you notice a difference in their capacities to deliver continuous heat, or is that fairly equal between them?

PS... that Zap is gorgeous.

lwien · Aug 18, 2011

A lot of this has to do with they type of wood being used as well. As an example, the Cherry Woods in the PD's will operate at a higher temp, than say an Ash PD and therefore, I would think it would be safe to assume that the Cherry will also retain heat longer than the Ash. So when you are trying to compare heat retention or operating temps between the Zaps and the PD's, this has to be taken into consideration.

The difference can be pretty considerable. With my Cherry PD, the ABV comes out a VERY dark brown, about the shade of dark chocolate. With my Ash PD, the ABV comes out a golden brown, no matter how long I hit it.

On another note, I agree that that Zap that you got, HighSti, sure is pretty.

DevoTheStrange · Aug 18, 2011

I have a question about the rock vape... since the heat exchange is now inside the concrete cup, does the selection of wood for the vape affect the temp as much as it would without the concrete cup? How much heat makes it out to the surface of the cup?

SirElton · Aug 18, 2011

I'm going to let this one go.

By the way guys, its SirElton.

kewpcer · Aug 18, 2011

The wood, as an insulator, plays the most significant role in boosting up the peak operating temp of the vape. As I understand very little of the air contacts it. The metal core of the heat exchanger is what cools more rapidly as it uses its available surface area to give the heat stored in its mass away to the air that passes by it. Heat exchanger performance as I understand it is a function of the mass of the heat exchanger, the thermodynamic properties of the material it's made of, the amount and rate of heat being put into it, and the amount of time the air spends in contact with the heat exchanger. The last seems to be enhanced by increasing surface area, air turbulence, and even color of the heat exchanger.

Indeed, over a LONG draw as the heat exchanger becomes sufficiently cooled, the wood might begin to cool significantly with it, but not anything a human could pull off. A loooong draw. Most of the heat lost in the exchanger is very local to the surface area in which it was lost. Otherwise, every three good rips the unit would need a reheat of a few minutes to come back up to temp instead of having a much more gradual taper off as they have.

-
Devo, the evidence is piling up that once inside the concrete liner, the wood has very little to do with the operating temperature of the vape. Rick's first prototype was just the exchanger and the liner, and worked well. Mom's newer prototype has a wood body that would have been unusable before the rock.

lwien · Aug 18, 2011

SirElton said:
I'm going to let this one go.

By the way guys, its SirElton.

Since I left the Air Force, the ONLY time I EVER address anyone as Sir is when they are older than me, and being that that's a rarity, it hardly ever happens.

DevoTheStrange · Aug 18, 2011

kewpcer said:
Devo, the evidence is piling up that once inside the concrete liner, the wood has very little to do with the operating temperature of the vape. Rick's first prototype was just the exchanger and the liner, and worked well. Mom's newer prototype has a wood body that would have been unusable before the rock.

nice... opens up so many possibilities.
I like seeing products evolve, and I gotta say... the Zaps are evolving in leaps and bounds it seems

SirElton · Aug 18, 2011

Sir Elton John, CBE. He is a Knight of the Realm. If that doesn't matter to you (even though it should), he is also 64 years old. I don't know how old you are, but I don't know many people in their sixties that frequent internet boards. So, he should fit your criteria, however holier-than-thou it is.

But this is the Zap thread, not the place for this discussion. Go create a thread in the proper place if you'd like to discuss this further. :rolleyes:

biojuggernaut · Aug 18, 2011

^ this conversation is a :lol:

kewpcer said:
The wood, as an insulator, plays the most significant role in boosting up the peak operating temp of the vape. As I understand very little of the air contacts it. The metal core of the heat exchanger is what cools more rapidly as it uses its available surface area to give the heat stored in its mass away to the air that passes by it. Heat exchanger performance as I understand it is a function of the mass of the heat exchanger, the thermodynamic properties of the material it's made of, the amount and rate of heat being put into it, and the amount of time the air spends in contact with the heat exchanger. The last seems to be enhanced by increasing surface area, air turbulence, and even color of the heat exchanger.

Indeed, over a LONG draw as the heat exchanger becomes sufficiently cooled, the wood might begin to cool significantly with it, but not anything a human could pull off. A loooong draw. Most of the heat lost in the exchanger is very local to the surface area in which it was lost. Otherwise, every three good rips the unit would need a reheat of a few minutes to come back up to temp instead of having a much more gradual taper off as they have.

-
Devo, the evidence is piling up that once inside the concrete liner, the wood has very little to do with the operating temperature of the vape. Rick's first prototype was just the exchanger and the liner, and worked well. Mom's newer prototype has a wood body that would have been unusable before the rock.

^^ This however is well written and pretty accurate to the extent of my own knowledge of log vapes; I couldn't have said it better myself.

lwien · Aug 18, 2011

SirElton said:
Sir Elton John, CBE. He is a Knight of the Realm. If that doesn't matter to you (even though it should), he is also 64 years old. I don't know how old you are, but I don't know many people in their sixties that frequent internet boards. So, he should fit your criteria, however holier-than-thou it is.

But this is the Zap thread, not the place for this discussion. Go create a thread in the proper place if you'd like to discuss this further.

You're the one that brought it up, Elton, but for the record, he IS younger than I.

Vitolo · Aug 18, 2011

My dark walnut Zap leaves my ABV the color golden tan, like you, lwien... no matter how many pulls I take. My Curly Blond Myrtle Zap leaves the ABV choclate colored.
The woods density does have much to do with this.. as both these gals are the brass. I will report on the SSS Zap after appropriate tests.
On the age thing... yes SirElton...
The "Pinball Wizard" may be a mature gent, in years as well as a knight...
But at my 60 years of age lwien's even got me beat by a decade!

SirElton · Aug 18, 2011

lwien said:
SirElton said:

Sir Elton John, CBE. He is a Knight of the Realm. If that doesn't matter to you (even though it should), he is also 64 years old. I don't know how old you are, but I don't know many people in their sixties that frequent internet boards. So, he should fit your criteria, however holier-than-thou it is.

But this is the Zap thread, not the place for this discussion. Go create a thread in the proper place if you'd like to discuss this further.

Click to expand...

You're the one that brought it up, Elton, but for the record, he IS younger than I.

Good to know, "ien".

momofthegoons · Aug 18, 2011

lwien, did you forget to bring the cookies again? :lol:

Come on guys, let's play nice. This kind of bickering is counterproductive.

DevoTheStrange said:
I have a question about the rock vape... since the heat exchange is now inside the concrete cup, does the selection of wood for the vape affect the temp as much as it would without the concrete cup? How much heat makes it out to the surface of the cup?

This is the big question right now. We know that the myrtle burl that my RockZap was made from was too soft for normal applications. But, will the heatport and concrete liner work as well with something more dense....say ebony. That's what still needs to be tested and I guess time and trials will tell.

edit to add: the outside of the RockZap is still nice and warm to the hands. Perhaps the denser wood would retain the heat more inside the concrete?

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