The Magic-Flight Box

i know, that a trench is not a trench is not a trench. i was just trying to stay in the box slang. may i correct the question to "how many sessions per gram" then?
one hour total time worth of PA running time sounds really promising.

OF said:

Beats me, I never tried it. Besides it's not a realistic measure IMO. 'How many drinks in a bottle of whiskey?'. You and I can easily have a much different answer? Sort of like 'how many sessions per gram?'.

Back of the envelope calculations 'say' about 9 times what a glyph battery, enough to drive the PA about one hour total time?

OF

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I bought some glyph batteries from VN. I have to let them heat up the box 10-15 seconds before I draw. Is that nomal? I also heard this type of battery gets better as you use them. Also, if I use a rubber band on the box it seems the entire box is tighter and hits so much better. Is this just my imagination or have others had this same experience.

I was thinking of getting a PA (that would answer my battery problem) but doesn't that defeat the purpose of the LB?

Ronp said:

I bought some glyph batteries from VN. I have to let them heat up the box 10-15 seconds before I draw. Is that nomal? I also heard this type of battery gets better as you use them. Also, if I use a rubber band on the box it seems the entire box is tighter and hits so much better. Is this just my imagination or have others had this same experience.

I was thinking of getting a PA (that would answer my battery problem) but doesn't that defeat the purpose of the LB?

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That is unusual. Make sure your batteries have the glyph symbol at the bottom of the bat. I give my box a 2-3 second heatup with a new pair of glyph batteries. If my box is brand new I do about 1-2 seconds. Doesn't really matter though. 1 Brand new bat and brand new box can give u 3 seshes per bat. The batteries don't run down easily, as you can use the same set for a year+.

Also, don't forget the PA can be used in the car. That's huge for a lot of people. It comes free with the PA. You can also find the PA for a reasonable price off E-Bay or other vape vendors.

Ronp said:

I bought some glyph batteries from VN. I have to let them heat up the box 10-15 seconds before I draw. Is that nomal? I also heard this type of battery gets better as you use them. Also, if I use a rubber band on the box it seems the entire box is tighter and hits so much better. Is this just my imagination or have others had this same experience.

I was thinking of getting a PA (that would answer my battery problem) but doesn't that defeat the purpose of the LB?

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If the Box is going to be your only home vape go for it, in terms of ease of use and performance its hard to beat. If however you are considering another vape as a home unit hold off till you have settled in with the new one. Good Luck

axakal said:

i know, that a trench is not a trench is not a trench. i was just trying to stay in the box slang. may i correct the question to "how many sessions per gram" then?

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So if you knew before hand it was a meaningless measure why did you waste my time answering it? And then why do you basically ask the same question all over again (the answer would be that same unrealistic trench number divided by a nearly as useless 'how many trenches per gram', right?)? Even less meaningful.

Same general answer: It depends on how much you vape each load before changing to the next?????

OF

well, sorry i asked the same thing twice.

I know it's probably not recommended, but have any of you used a standard AA battery (with label off) in an emergency situation when you had no charged Glyph's available?

I am still fairly new to the vaporizer scene and i currently own a xmax v2, gpro (titan 1), flowermate v5.os, and a MFLB. I have used all of them indoors and outdoors, testing the limits with smells and what works best and i can confidently say this is one of the best methods to get medicated healthy and discreetly.
First if your room or location obviously open it. i do advise lighting candles if available and/or having febreze. Personally i have both so i light one and febreeze afterwords, standard stuff.

Now getting down to the best vape. I personally believe it is the MFLB( Magic flight launch box). The reason for this is unlike other portable that heat to a certain temp then you can draw however fast you want. The magic flight heats up almost instantly when engaged so as long as you draw before you press the button and let go a little early before you remove your mouth all of it will be in your mouth/lungs rather straight into the room. Then i do advise having a smoke buddy or a makeshift one. i just grabbed a paper towel roll and i put papertowel then 1 dryer sheet and paper towell again and so on. and in the middle put 3 dryer sheets then back to routine. the dryer sheets get rid of the smell but the paper towels help remove visability. Personally ive used this method dozens of times and works great. Little to know smell if done right and if you want to make sure febreze after a session but honestly not necessary.

This method led to me buying a power adapter for the magic flight and now i can vape non stop with friends or by myself stress free. Here is my setup. P.S. Having a fan on aiming at the window and blowing through the makeshift at the fan is best but not necessary. Anyone that also uses ecigs can use it after to remove smell from your mouth.http://gyazo.com/04b7b73cebb0a83184231607d8ec46eb Hope this helped it was my first thread.

kente777 said:

I know it's probably not recommended, but have any of you used a standard AA battery (with label off) in an emergency situation when you had no charged Glyph's available?

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No doubt many have tried, but it's not possible. Standard Primary ('throw away') batteries can't even come close to the peak power demands of MFLB. The best of the lot are still a tiny fraction of what's needed.

In fact, very few of the high end rechargeables will. I did some 'back of the envelope' calculations when I first got mine, IIRC four top performing Alkaline D cells (all in parallel) is getting into the right range.....

OF

I use Duracell and Energizer rechargeable batteries with great success. But have never tried to use standard batteries.

C'mon guys,
You know that common AA BATTS just will not cut it, no way ,the bulb won't even light up.
Bite the bullet and get some glyph batts. They have improved them to the point that my PA is gathering dust. I always hated being tethered to the wall and the new glyphs are great. Back to being free!
Was just outside in the backyard, sunshine, blossoms and assorted bees.
Whipped out the LB with a short stem....
ahhhh magic. Faster than my boy's Pax and way more flavor.

While I use Glyphs I have heard more than once that typical energizer rechargables will get the job done.

MileHighLife said:

While I use Glyphs I have heard more than once that typical energizer rechargables will get the job done.

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Yes and no, I've tried, but it takes longer to heat up and they die faster. Die for good after a few charges. Glyphs are more economical

Have had cause to break out my Launch box to use as my main driver for this last week and gotta say I still love this little vape and still say once you learn to use it it's hard to beat.

whether doing just a couple hits or sitting back for a couple trenches the little box shines bright in my vape collection.

I have a buildup of tar at the lip of my MFLB. MF said it is due to the material being too wet.

I have a couple of questions.


How can I clean the tar out of my MFLB and wooden stems?

How can I dry my material out more?

Lastly, I have a SCS and a mendo mulcher. What grinder should I be using to get the very find consistency the MFLB needs?

You should be fine with those, but the finishing grinder from MF seems to be a hit. You can always take a couple drags, get it dry, then dump it into your hand and pinch and roll if you want to make a powder consistancy.

morninglight said:

How can I clean the tar out of my MFLB and wooden stems?

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Pipe cleaner for the stems, cotton swab for the Box.

morninglight said:

Lastly, I have a SCS and a mendo mulcher. What grinder should I be using to get the very find consistency the MFLB needs?

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The Magic Flight Finishing Grinder. That is a must-have accessory, IMO. For me the difference was night and day between a generic "spikey" grinder and the Finishing Grinder. Oh, and in spite of the name, you don't have to use a different grinder first - just finger-crumble your product into the FG and that'll be the only grinder you need to use with the MFLB.

How can I clean the tar out of my MFLB and wooden stems?... A moist ISO wipe with a Q,Tip has worked for me for the last year or so. What you don't want is significant amounts of alcohol soaking into the wood.

How can I dry my material out more?... left out in the open the herb will try to equalize with the room humidity if you want to speed it up add a little air movement.

Lastly, I have a SCS and a mendo mulcher. What grinder should I be using to get the very find consistency the MFLB needs?....I use a dedicated electric coffee grinder or the old pill bottle and a coin methods.

i use little pieces of bud in my FG and it works fine when you remove bigger stems, if I have bud in a JyARz that's pre-ground or shredded I do this as recommended by sundaddy for moist herb with my courser ground but dry herb.

After a couple hits I

sundaddy said:

dump it into your hand and pinch and roll if you want to make a powder consistancy.

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I clean my wood stems with a pipe cleaner and launch box with a Q-tip and brush like others have said.

sundaddy said:

You can always take a couple drags, get it dry, then dump it into your hand and pinch and roll if you want to make a powder consistancy.

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Thank you. I had forgotten about this.

MrNaturalAZ said:

Pipe cleaner for the stems, cotton swab for the Box.



The Magic Flight Finishing Grinder. That is a must-have accessory, IMO. For me the difference was night and day between a generic "spikey" grinder and the Finishing Grinder. Oh, and in spite of the name, you don't have to use a different grinder first - just finger-crumble your product into the FG and that'll be the only grinder you need to use with the MFLB.

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I'll put it on my wishlist and for the time being will manually pinch it down into that finer consistency.


Thank you so much fellow FCians!

morninglight said:

I have a buildup of tar at the lip of my MFLB. MF said it is due to the material being too wet.

I have a couple of questions.


How can I clean the tar out of my MFLB and wooden stems?

How can I dry my material out more?

Lastly, I have a SCS and a mendo mulcher. What grinder should I be using to get the very find consistency the MFLB needs?

Click to expand...

You can just dig the resin out out the stem hole. I use a dabbing tool because I'll vape the reclaim, but you can use whatever works. It's not a good idea to put anything under the screen, however, and that's where the real build-up is. If you have the PA, then hold or clamp the LB with the stem side down and something underneath to catch the resin (I use a silicone cupcake mold) then apply full power. The resin will soften and a lot will run out, but you can never get it all. You can do this with batteries but it's a lot more trouble, and I would think you'd need two or three batteries at least. It's not something you should do often because lengthy heating is detrimental to the screen. If you LB has been used as much as mine, you run the risk of burning it out. That's not tar, by the way, it's resin and it's potent. It's really nice in the Muad Dib.

As others have said, a pipecleaner dampened with ISO is best for wooden stems. To minimize the possibility of damage by the alcohol, mix it half and half with water. It takes a little longer to dry but it's just as effective for cleaning.

Lots of ways to dry your material, but if you simply grind it well ahead of time and don't store it airtight, it will dry out fairly quickly. Putting it in a warm dry place (like the top of your fridge) helps.

The Magic-Flight Finishing Grinder is a great solution but you can get an excellent result for only a quarter. Put it in a pill bottle with your buds and shake vigorously for a minute or so. That's all there is to it, and you still have 25 cents.

pakalolo said:

You can just dig the resin out out the stem hole. I use a dabbing tool because I'll vape the reclaim, but you can use whatever works. It's not a good idea to put anything under the screen, however, and that's where the real build-up is. If you have the PA, then hold or clamp the LB with the stem side down and something underneath to catch the resin (I use a silicone cupcake mold) then apply full power. The resin will soften and a lot will run out, but you can never get it all. You can do this with batteries but it's a lot more trouble, and I would think you'd need two or three batteries at least. It's not something you should do often because lengthy heating is detrimental to the screen. If you LB has been used as much as mine, you run the risk of burning it out. That's not tar, by the way, it's resin and it's potent. It's really nice in the Muad Dib.

As others have said, a pipecleaner dampened with ISO is best for wooden stems. To minimize the possibility of damage by the alcohol, mix it half and half with water. It takes a little longer to dry but it's just as effective for cleaning.

Lots of ways to dry your material, but if you simply grind it well ahead of time and don't store it airtight, it will dry out fairly quickly. Putting it in a warm dry place (like the top of your fridge) helps.

The Magic-Flight Finishing Grinder is a great solution but you can get an excellent result for only a quarter. Put it in a pill bottle with your buds and shake vigorously for a minute or so. That's all there is to it, and you still have 25 cents.

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Excellent information friend! Thank you so much.

You'll want to use a drinkable alcohol to clean wooden mflb stems, @Ed's TnT recommends drinkable alcohols on a pipe cleaner as opposed to, say, isopropyl alcohol.

You can also do what paka said for the inside buildup. Personally I have a steady hand () and once in a long while I will CAREFULLY run a toothpick against the "floor" flat. It helps collect the stuff inside but not all of it. I say CAREFULLY because if you mess up and push up against the screen you can mess it up pretty quickly.

While you can get a decent grind with regular grinders the finishing grinder gets the job done easier. Personally? I don't bother much with traditional grinders for my mflb, I have a cheap Hamilton Beach clear top coffee grinder. It makes quick work of a gram up to an eighth, changing coarseness depending on how long I hold the button. Only thing is the kief likes to stick to the top of it, nothing a brush can't take care of but a little extra work nonetheless.

As for drying material, I take whatever I want to vape and spread it out a little on an index card to dry out. Don't usually need more than an hour until it's bone dry for me. It also vapes much better after.

I was looking on ebay and saw a used mflb for $40. I emailed him and he said it's a genuine mflb bought 3 years ago and used only 3 times...would you guys buy it? I'm just concerned about getting a counterfeit - although ebay does allow returns if it's not what the seller says it is.

bounce5 said:

I was looking on ebay and saw a used mflb for $40. I emailed him and he said it's a genuine mflb bought 3 years ago and used only 3 times...would you guys buy it? I'm just concerned about getting a counterfeit - although ebay does allow returns if it's not what the seller says it is.

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Magic Flight customer service will be happy to check the serial number for you. If the seller doesn't show it in the photos, ask for a photo showing the serial number (or, at the least, to give you the serial number).

Verifying the serial number will not only protect you from counterfeits, but also ensure you still have MFs lifetime warranty protection (some unscrupulous individuals will get their Box replaced under warranty, and then sell the old one as simply "used").