Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

darkrom said:

Thanks. I always forget its a trigger not a twist.

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There is an optional twist feature that is easy to use and delivers extra pressure.

Yea for me pucking, clamping, and re-hydrating have been the top 3 tips (maybe in that order). I get about 16% off middle shelf and up to 18-19% from top shelf with a shitty $17 1" iron from a box store. I'm curious what other people are getting?

I find with the 1" I get good results using 1/4g nugs, smashed into a tiny button using a pyrex tank I had that fit snugly on a 3/8 socket extender. Just split a gram into 4 piles (picking out the stems), pack the pyrex and smash down on the extender. I get a nice tight puck that almost never leaves junk in my rosin, and paper-thin it perfectly reaches the edges of the heat surface so the oil comes out the sides, getting less heat. Seems like after 3 squeezes it's just lowering the overall quality of the yield? Any thoughts?

The clamp I have is so big and awkward I ended up making a mount for my iron and hanging the clamp off it, making a tabletop press rig lol. Works so well after less than a week the iron is totally crushed on top haha. Moer science needed...

Always on the hunt for that next % or 2 lol....

Is it safe to assume that grinding herb prior to these processes has been tried and found wanting in some way?

grinding is a very bad idea if you actually want to see rosin excreted.
if you grind your whole flowers it will most likely end up smearing the trichomes all over the inside of your grinder... best to leave those buds intact.

if your trying to milk brick weed that needs to be ground... forget it.

even rosin is still bound by the laws of quality.

quality in, quality out.

these are back in stock
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=181770211329&alt=web

So at the end of a recent bubbleman video (talking concentrates in CA with Horatio) He talked a little about moisture in Rosin. He was commenting that Berfelo's fresh frozen dry sift rosin had lots of moisture and sizzled when dabbed, to the point that he felt the need to wear shades for his dab lol. He also pasted some text onscreen about the moisture potentially being harmful? IDK about that, any smart people with opinions to share? I always hydrate buds before I squeeze them, but I imagine smashing a fresh plant would produce a fair bit more moisture that that lol. Terpy as hell I'm sure....

Ghetto rigged my broken hair straightener with some tape and it's better than new!

Hawaiian Snow

GuyLeDuche said:

So at the end of a recent bubbleman video (talking concentrates in CA with Horatio) He talked a little about moisture in Rosin. He was commenting that Berfelo's fresh frozen dry sift rosin had lots of moisture and sizzled when dabbed, to the point that he felt the need to wear shades for his dab lol. He also pasted some text onscreen about the moisture potentially being harmful? IDK about that, any smart people with opinions to share? I always hydrate buds before I squeeze them, but I imagine smashing a fresh plant would produce a fair bit more moisture that that lol. Terpy as hell I'm sure....

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it depends on whats contained in that moisture. if your using clean distilled water to hydrate your buds it would only be a question if what thst moisture may leach out of thecplant material... if your using tap water though you could be adding dissolved residuals from your tap water... ie chlorine chloramine exc.

if its a matter of fresh plants and what moisture is produced from that the question becomes, was this plant properly flushed for a long cycle flush or did they rush it with a flushing solution... was it organically grown... or could there be chemical nutrients left behind?

all are a possibility.... however just cause bobby down the street is stupid and doesnt flush his babies doesnt mean thst jimmy next door doesnt... jimmy next door has got that all organic garden and flushes them out for 3 weeks before harvest....

so it's really going to depend on those variables what is contained in that "moisture".

I've gotten hold of a new hair iron, going as low as 95c. That's too low to get anything from this sandcoloured Moroccan, but 120c and approx 7 seconds press time gives me shatter! I do 2-5 presses of 0.2-0.5 grams of this hash, and all the presses gives good oil, only the quantity goes down.

Extremely strong effects both dabbed and in a pen.

What I like about this method is it's basic enough to create a new argument over the purity of concentrates. Many have expressed their concerns about concentrate due to the "lab" refinement techniques that take away from the natural synergistic properties of the plant. But this is just heat and pressure; the same thing that turns carbon into those cool rocks the rappers wear. Simpler is always better.

NorVape said:

I've started using the C clamp thing. My lord does that help a ton!

Also, if you're pressing import hash this might be of interest to you: dark hashes ime produce a sappy, dark oil that does not vape cleanly in a pen, where as light hashes produce a shattery snap and pull concentrate that you can handle with your hands, and that vapes good in pens

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I can definitely vouch for this, in general, darker hashes are of lower quality than lighter hashes Especially if you want to extract resin, remember that the heat applied in pressing a hash (leading to darkness) will degrade actives before you try to squeeze them out.

But these import hashes often tend to be more "stony" when they are dark. Might that be heat pressing changing the structure of the active ingredients, or can it also be the genetics from the places that traditionally heat press their hash in a way that makes it dark?

Back in the days dark hash was always good, regular hash was dark brown and every now and then you got light hash called pollen or polm. These days the lighter hashes are usually really good.

But I of course only press good hashes

Oh btw, any one got any tips on how to keep the c-clamp on the hair iron? Too often it slips off...

NorVape said:

But these import hahtms often tend to be more "stony" when they are dark. Might that be heat pressing changing the structure of the active ingredients, or can it also be the genetics from the places that traditionally heat press their hash in a way that makes it dark?

Back in the days dark hash was always good, regular hash was dark brown and every now and then you got light hash called pollen or polm. These days the lighter hashes are usually really good.

But I of course only press good hashes

Oh btw, any one got any tips on how to keep the c-clamp on the hair iron? Too often it slips off...

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http://www.puffitup.com/NoGoo-Containers-p/nogoofingertipsyellow.htm

Slide Something like tha over swivel part.. Make sure to use 15% off coupon code

NorVape said:

But these import hashes often tend to be more "stony" when they are dark. Might that be heat pressing changing the structure of the active ingredients, or can it also be the genetics from the places that traditionally heat press their hash in a way that makes it dark?

Back in the days dark hash was always good, regular hash was dark brown and every now and then you got light hash called pollen or polm. These days the lighter hashes are usually really good.

But I of course only press good hashes

Oh btw, any one got any tips on how to keep the c-clamp on the hair iron? Too often it slips off...

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We have the same thing here in terms of the hash market. The only hashes I ever found around generally were dark pressed hashes.

The body high of darker hashes is indeed due to heat degrading the actives (THCA to THC to CBN). I have steered clear of pressed hashes for a while now because I prefer the effects of non-decarbed resins, and also want to receive any meds I get in as close to the original condition off of the plant as possible.

Degraded resins are symptoms of prohibition mindset IMO, where we press the hash, making it as small as possible to carry about and less smelly (because the most volatile and often most smelly terps are lost), but with the tradeoff of degraded resin. Still, with the quality of herb available around these parts, people will gladly buy severely degraded pressed hashes and these will still be way more potent than most of the flowers going about. Especially because most combust here, the sleepy effect of degraded resin is familiar and sought after by many, who feel uncomfortable getting a heady effect!

However, especially the terp loss from heat pressing of dark hashes means that we are muting the entourage/ensemble (depending on where you stand in the semantic divide) effect and taking away from what the resin can do for us when we heat press! Of course, some pressed hashes are not heated to an extent where degradation is a concern and in these cases, this doesn't apply. The darkness is the tell-tale sign though

Ok, guys. I am super not excited about this, but now it's been a few months and people know more about it.

Basically, in Washington starting July 25th, all concentrate extraction of cannabis will be illegal without some special license. I don't think that pertains to solventless, but who knows, because this new bill restricts even safe processes, like Co2.

1. Anyhow, if I wanted to get into Rosin and I have $100 what should I buy?
2. What are your return rates on average (I know it's strain specific)
3. I'm not worried about taste so much, but it has to be tolerable
4. How much do you honestly think you waste when you do the process? I know the temps don't get too, very hot, but still you are vaporizing some of the terpenes out.
5. Would I just be better off putting that nice herb in an e-nano and vaping it?
6. Can I vape it after I rosin it, and still get some effects?

So many questions...
Thanks!

I know I've read that the answer to 6- is yes.

You can vape a bud after it been pressed for rosin, but it will be less potent than the original nugg.
It will have lost the oil you pressed out of it, and the heat may degrade some of the THC into cbd, but the remains can still be vapes

3- I've only had rosin once, produced by someone I know to make particularly high quality concentrates, and it was quite tasty

#2 from what I've read/seen, depending on tech/temps/pressure/time. most seem to get about 90-95% of the oil after pressing leaving 5-10% in the pressed pucks.

#4 I think with lower temps and a good technique, very little can be wasted.

Neceros said:

Ok, guys. I am super not excited about this, but now it's been a few months and people know more about it.

Basically, in Washington starting July 25th, all concentrate extraction of cannabis will be illegal without some special license. I don't think that pertains to solventless, but who knows, because this new bill restricts even safe processes, like Co2.

1. Anyhow, if I wanted to get into Rosin and I have $100 what should I buy?
2. What are your return rates on average (I know it's strain specific)
3. I'm not worried about taste so much, but it has to be tolerable
4. How much do you honestly think you waste when you do the process? I know the temps don't get too, very hot, but still you are vaporizing some of the terpenes out.
5. Would I just be better off putting that nice herb in an e-nano and vaping it?
6. Can I vape it after I rosin it, and still get some effects?

So many questions...
Thanks!

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1. Hair straightener- look for the sturdiest one you can find preferably with digital temperature control with a wide temp range $20-$60
Vice grip c clamp- discussed in the last couple pages of this thread. Not an absolute necessity but it makes it easy to generate the needed pressure. It will increase your yield and make the pressing much easier over using just body weight. Around $20
Parchment paper- I prefer this: http://www.reynoldskitchens.com/products/parchment-paper/cookie-baking-sheets/ It's good quality parchment in flat sheets. Easier to work with and cut to size, no annoying curling. $4

2. Strain specific indeed. I've gotten anywhere from 6%-21% yields from flower.

3. Flavor can vary but for the most part I LOVE the taste of Rosin. Temperature and length of press can have a big affect on taste so experiment to find what you like.

4. You lose some terpenes with pretty much any extraction method. I've had rosin that was just as terpy as good bho and some not so much. I've had some strains that yield at least as well as a solvent extraction so, assuming you have your tech dialed in and are getting proper yields, I'd say you aren't wasting very much comparatively.

5. Personal preference. I enjoy both.

6. You can vape the herb chips after rosining and get effects. I prefer to save the chips up for edibles. Treat them like abv when making butter/oil and you can get some potent edibles from them.

So, I've been throwing my squished hash (wrapped in cotton) and some squished buds in some high percentage alcohol (take that proof shit back to the 1800's will ya? ).

Storing it in a dark cabinet, been shaking it when I remembered. Yesterday I threw some abv in as well, and let it simmer in a hot water bath for like 20 min, before straining.

Brought a dropper bottle into the mountains with me. Holy shit! Fantastic effects, very strong, and a rapid onset!

I think a lot comes from the oil stuck in the cotton, some from the hash and buds, and some from the abv.

The feeling of getting all the goodies, I like!

Been Vapin said:

This is probably the next best thing to an arbor press or a pneumatic press. It really juices hard.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...C-Clamp-with-Swivel-Jaws-48-22-3521/205017708


Check out these two videos of it in action. Not my video.
https://imgur.com/a/ky9qP#ekUNthO

Here is how I have been pressing

Also have been dunking very dry nugs in water and pressing wet.

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I realized I haven't contributed anything to this forum in a while. I took a step back and became a lurker again..lol
Any ways without further intro this is a mod to the clamp trick not sure what to call it

I super glued a piece of silicon rubber to each side. And used some Kanthal wiring to keep the base from swiveling. I purchased both items from a Harbour Freight store ( C-Clamp $7.99 + Handscrew Clamp $9.99)




Here is another angle.


With this mod it make using the c-clamp and the flat iron 100% easier imo.
Let me know what you guys think.

~Menny~

mflb_hustler said:

I realized I haven't contributed anything to this forum in a while. I took a step back and became a lurker again..lol
Any ways without further intro this is a mod to the clamp trick not sure what to call it

I super glued a piece of silicon rubber to each side. And used some Kanthal wiring to keep the base from swiveling. I purchased both items from a Harbour Freight store ( C-Clamp $7.99 + Handscrew Clamp $9.99)

Here is another angle.

With this mod it make using the c-clamp and the flat iron 100% easier imo.
Let me know what you guys think.

~Menny~

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the double clamp tech.

nice tabletop setup!

Glass Slipper - SUPER dense nuggs yielded like crazy.

Hi all, just wanted to drop by and say I've been reading up on Silicone carbide (or SiC, which D-nail's Rosin press is gonna use for the plates) and am glad to say that if the SiC is manufactured and then oxidized in the way I think it will be, we will be left heated plated which have an outer layer of silica oxide

This is an inert layer (comparable but somewhat superior to quartz!) Imagine your pressing plates having the lab cleanliness of the finest quality glass but the durability and heat resistance of a ballistics material???

I can't wait for them to release those presses, the even heating and inert nature of the plate material is gonna mean that we're gonna be getting show-stopping rosin with very little effort!

I wonder if this will allow for low enough temps to get harder shatter from rosin tech??

herbivore21 said:

I wonder if this will allow for low enough temps to get harder shatter from rosin tech??

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I doubt it. There were people on another forum that had presses with enough pressure to bust a steel screen that weren't getting anything without enough heat.

Jared said:

I doubt it. There were people on another forum that had presses with enough pressure to bust a steel screen that weren't getting anything without enough heat.

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Low temps really require more even thermal distribution properties though man, this is a particular benefit offered by SiC over other materials

What were the people on the other forum using for plate material?

herbivore21 said:

Low temps really require more even thermal distribution properties though man, this is a particular benefit offered by SiC over other materials

What were the people on the other forum using for plate material?

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I think I saw that post too. They were using SS or AL plates if I recall. However the plates weren't heated at all (room temp) so they just weren't extracting anything.