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OF

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by "real ones"? Are these the pre-domed ones sold on ebay that have been mentioned before?

Yes, those would be the ones, first 'found' by our own Sinclue. Here's a post of mine from a while back with links to his original post and some other discussions of them. IMO they are clearly superior. Much more solid (heavier wire, fused in shape), do a better job, and last a lot longer. A while back someone posted a UK EBay source of them that should make getting them in the EU cheap, fast and easy?

Recommended.

This is what they look like as supplied and installed:
eslZCjG.jpg


OF
 

spiggot

Well-Known Member
Maybe I should give them a try then if you're saying they're that good. They do look more coarse than the screens I've been using, so I'm still a bit concerned about particles getting through. Maybe I will have to try a slightly less fine grind.

I see the vendor is selling them for around £10 (~$15USD) delivered for 10, so that makes them literally ten times as expensive as the regular ultra fine ones I have been using.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
They do look more coarse than the screens I've been using, so I'm still a bit concerned about particles getting through.

I see the vendor is selling them for around £10 (~$15USD) delivered for 10, so that makes them literally ten times as expensive as the regular ultra fine ones I have been using.

Glad you agree they are more course. If you're having debris issues simply fit a flat half inch screen of your choosing under it. Let the tougher domed screen take the beatings and fouling?

If you're trying to ask 'are they ten times better?', IMO absolutely. Even if you don't value your time messing with all the screen changes/cleanings (which I do). I use a bent safety pin to 'hook' them out, torch them clean, brush them off an have them back in and loading in under a minute at much less frequent intervals.

Your call.

OF
 

spiggot

Well-Known Member
Order placed based on your comments above. I will see what the debris situation is like, then put in a smaller fine screen underneath if needed. Slightly concerned about the resulting smaller bowl size too as I think the dome looks a bit bigger than my home made effort, but at least it will be more economical if nothing else.

I don't actually bother cleaning the screens separately with flame, I just iso bath stem and screen every 2-3 uses at most. Despite being relatively painless, If I can get away with less cleaning this can only be a good thing, as I value my time too.

By the way, I did try making qwiso using the old orange/brown iso fluid, filtering using a coffee filter as you suggested. I ended up with a Pyrex dish of very sticky dark shatter looking substance. I scraped all of it into a bowl sandwiched between some herb, which was a messy process. The flavour was absolutely horrendous, I had to abandon after a few draws. I thought for a while I had permanently tainted my Air with the bad taste, as it persisted after cleaning and reloading. Thankfully further cleaning and burn off at max temp a couple of times has returned it back to normal. I'm not sure what I did wrong, but I'm in no hurry to repeat the process.
 

GetLeft

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the photo @WoodVillain. You'll enjoy that.

Does the ss stem affect vapor temp/flavor at all? I love the idea of the wood at the mouthpiece end rather than glass, but I'd rather have glass than ss at the oven end. Unless I'm crazy.
 
GetLeft,
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UnshavenFish

Well-Known Member
Slightly concerned about the resulting smaller bowl size too
I also don't go for reduced bowl size just a cleaner stem (no bits) and to keep air holes clear, this is the small MP with black tip (top left is the all glass one)

Just put them in this way, the top left pic is my homemade dome(with a reverse dome added to keep bowl size good) the rest are the UK eBay domes IMO the dome this way keeps the most usable space and the 'dead bits' IMO are parts that the airflow isn't the best at anyway so keeps things more even.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-Ariz...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item419635bb2c

Pics are not best quality (my phone doesn't like up close) but good enough to show what I intend.

The screens should only let powder through if anything, holes are smaller in real life IMO than pics would suggest, and yes they are more expensive, but like @OF I also think they are worth every penny.
 
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snamuh

ghost
I want to experiment with a dome screen (up) and a flat screen on top. I did this with my wooden stem and I like having a flat bowl. I think I need to adjust my packing to get better vapor. I had this issue when I first got the air and tried 1/4 filled bowls.

The thing is... I haven't been using the herb! I started 'real' medication for the first time since I was like 17, and it is cutting back my impulsive herb habits! Even before bed I have barely been catching a buzz.... But then again I am running low and trying to stretch a bowl and halfs worth to taper off completely until I get my GH.

Hmm I may use a tincture for bed time if my meds keep me up.

@GetLeft I wish I could give you proper feed back on the difference between ss and glass, but as I mentioned up there, I haven't really had enough herb to test thoroughly. Since the wooden stems don't have four tiny holes, and are instead wide open, draws are going to be different. I *think* temps might have to go up one level... Also watch out for touching the metal part, haha. Ive grabbed it multiple times and it is HOT! Lol never actually gave me a burn though.... Yet...
 
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spiggot

Well-Known Member
@UnshavenFish Nice pics, I will have to try experimenting with dome up vs dome down once my ebay domed screens arrive.

@VANVAS I saw those glass screens before, but I don't get how they could be better than a fine metal screen. Surely those large holes will let through loads of particles, just like the stock stem does (for me at least).
 

Slow Draw McGraw

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I use those domed screens in my dry stems AND my GonGs. I flatten them to make half a bowl, which is perfect for me.I dont even remove them when I clean my Arizer Air/Solo glass anymore, I just let soak with ISO inside stem and then rinse altogether. I rarely clean these screens and I never have problems with vapor production. These are the toughest screens I've ever used.

My :2c:
 

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
Lost my stir tool... The pointy sharp one... I have a couple extra of the paddle end type stir tools from Arizer but never use those... I like the sharp pointy one.

Thing is... I know exactly where its at. It fell in a BIG trash bag full of... well trash. Im not a fancy person... Getting a little dirty is never something i shy away from... Except my son was sick yesterday.. and threw up all in the same trash bag.... The reward is just not worth it LMAO

I have smaller retrieval magnets... But the stir tools dont seem to be magnetized. Of course not.. that would be too easy LOL

Went to order a couple more... Noticed these are all i can find. If anyone knows where they sell the pointy ones please let me know. Yes i could use a nail or something else.. and will find something else if need be, but already have drilled holes in places for these pointy tools so would like the exact ones if possible.

stainless-steel-stirring-tool-.jpg
 

photobooth

Well-Known Member
Lost my stir tool... The pointy sharp one... I have a couple extra of the paddle end type stir tools from Arizer but never use those... I like the sharp pointy one.

Thing is... I know exactly where its at. It fell in a BIG trash bag full of... well trash. Im not a fancy person... Getting a little dirty is never something i shy away from... Except my son was sick yesterday.. and threw up all in the same trash bag.... The reward is just not worth it LMAO

I have smaller retrieval magnets... But the stir tools dont seem to be magnetized. Of course not.. that would be too easy LOL

Went to order a couple more... Noticed these are all i can find. If anyone knows where they sell the pointy ones please let me know. Yes i could use a nail or something else.. and will find something else if need be, but already have drilled holes in places for these pointy tools so would like the exact ones if possible.

stainless-steel-stirring-tool-.jpg
Searched Amazon for "metal toothpick" and came up with these:
http://www.amazon.com/RSVP-Enduranc...id=1434308624&sr=1-1&keywords=metal+toothpick
 

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
@WoodVillain
"I have a couple extra of the paddle end type"
pointy those things up if you never use them, good excuse to play with some tools :rolleyes:


WOW... I should probably take a break from vaping for a day or so HAHAHA, my brain has all but shut down this weekend.

The funny thing is... I make knives and tools myself as a hobby :doh:.

It took less than a minute, literally, to accomplish this. Took more time to snap the picture.

A little shorter but thats no biggie. I could have taken it to a higher grit and it would be prettier... but why? LOL

Thanks for knocking my brain out of cruise control :tup:

DSC02138_zpsyb6m05xh.jpg




Thanks man.... Im thinking i may/may not order some of the similar ones shaped like swords... Just because LOL, would make a cooler looking tool..

http://www.amazon.com/Cork-Pops-Mar..._sim_79_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=11AVS20Z1MY3FJMQDTFN
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I tried searching this thread but didn't have any luck but has anyone tried Eds TnT Bog stem? Just wondering how his air stems compare to stock?

Yes, it's been discussed a lot. And the same stems even more so on the Solo thread.

Ed's stems, in general, are first rate, have lower restriction and can run a little tighter than stock stems. The also conduct more heat out than glass, most of us run a step or so hotter therefore I think?

Bog wood is probably a poor choice for a stem, there are better (harder) woods. Ed doesn't use it to make FlowerMate stems for instance for this reason, only harder woods. I like mine because it's 5400 years old and can overlook the softer wood, open pores and other details. Unless you're bent on owning Bog wood for it's own sake, I suggest the more traditional woods.

Yes, most like them I think, many use them to adapt to WTs so they get 'double duty'. Otherwise they're more expensive but don't break.

OF
 

Xchadb

@Brownglass
Glass Blower
my AIR took a spill with me when i broke my wrist longboarding, had the silicone jacket on there, the aluminium only suffered small scratches, but it DID land pretty hard on the battery cap side (where the gouges are) and it still screws on just fine not bent at all, of course the glass stem was shattered and nowhere to be found, the bowl was undamaged. Dont eat a small amount of mushrooms and vape while bombing a hill on a longboard, my sense of speed was out the window forsure :)



love the solo and the air, they've been everywhere with me in colorado and have survived many many many trips!


Ill have to post pics of the damage later
 
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GetLeft

Well-Known Member
Air just arrived. Is there any vital info a brand new user needs to know without having to read this entire thread?

Shape a small screen into a dome and place it inverted (dome side up toward the oven) into the longer of the two AA stems.
Load the bowl half way (or ¾) full without packing it in.
Don't stress about the thick-ish pull; draw as it lets you draw.
Vape a session on blue to see how it does, and adjust upward from there. (Good to have a good baseline.)
Never used it with a water tool so others will give you direction in that department.
Oh yeah.
Enjoy the buzz.
 
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