Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
Either you concentrate is very runny, you are not cooling down enough after each session or you live somewhere with very high ambient temperature.

I have also got into the habit of storing it between sessions on its side with the mouthpiece tilted up a little.

I tried all concentrates wax stable shatter and still it all leaks down into the center pin. I live on an ocean cliff in Pacifica ca....

I always let it cool down. I don't think this should be happening..

It wastes my oil and doesn't allow me to get hits just small ones.
 
kernal6500,
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DrRishi

Well-Known Member
@THC SCIENTIFIC :
I purchased an AC with a 510 connection on your US web site (still at customs here in NL) before I decided to go the whole hog and order a Persei and SR74x from Germany. Can I still use the AC on my persei with an adapter?
 
DrRishi,

DieHard

Accessory supplier
Accessory Maker
I tried all concentrates wax stable shatter and still it all leaks down into the center pin. I live on an ocean cliff in Pacifica ca....

I always let it cool down. I don't think this should be happening..

It wastes my oil and doesn't allow me to get hits just small ones.

There is a small groove in the Ceramic heating rod. I'm not sure why it is there. Maybe @THC SCIENTIFIC can shed some light there. That is the "how". As to the why, not enough cool down. The Herc does not lend itself well to "chain-hitting" it as well. I found out this the hard way. Pocket heat or leaving it in a hot car causes this as well.
 

DrRishi

Well-Known Member
I tried all concentrates wax stable shatter and still it all leaks down into the center pin. I live on an ocean cliff in Pacifica ca....

I always let it cool down. I don't think this should be happening..

It wastes my oil and doesn't allow me to get hits just small ones.
Have you tightened the little nut that holds the ceramic staff in place down enough?

It is also taking me some time to get the hang of it.
I first let it warm up for about 8 seconds, then draw on it releasing the button before I am finished. Once it is warm it creates vapour very quickly. When I am done I suck through it for at least 10 seconds to cool it down.
 
DrRishi,

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
Have you tightened the little nut that holds the ceramic staff in place down enough?

It is also taking me some time to get the hang of it.
I first let it warm up for about 8 seconds, then draw on it releasing the button before I am finished. Once it is warm it creates vapour very quickly. When I am done I suck through it for at least 10 seconds to cool it down.

Ya that was my first area to check. I made sure to tighten it secure after my first leak.

I will try your method. I'm just concerned about it leaking like this. I don't want to keep wasting oil.

Also I have one coil in there is that correct?
 
kernal6500,

DrRishi

Well-Known Member
Ya that was my first area to check. I made sure to tighten it secure after my first leak.

I will try your method. I'm just concerned about it leaking like this. I don't want to keep wasting oil.

Also I have one coil in there is that correct?
I think the number of coils you use depends on how much you want to load and how viscous your oil is. I did not want to load too much while I was still experimenting and I have fairly stable BHO so I have only used one coil.
 
DrRishi,

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
I think the number of coils you use depends on how much you want to load and how viscous your oil is. I did not want to load too much while I was still experimenting and I have fairly stable BHO so I have only used one coil.

Interesting. At first I loaded probably half a gram on one coil then noticed a leak. I wonder if I am putting to much oil in with just one coil??? I am contacting w9 once they open. thanks for all your help.

also, will the upgrade fix this?
 
kernal6500,

DieHard

Accessory supplier
Accessory Maker
Interesting. At first I loaded probably half a gram on one coil then noticed a leak. I wonder if I am putting to much oil in with just one coil??? I am contacting w9 once they open. thanks for all your help.

also, will the upgrade fix this?
In a clean Herc, you should load .2, press the button to melt that in to the coil. This is your buffer. When that is melted into the cool, then load another .2-.3. This should be enough to prime and load your Herc and have it ready to go.
 

elmoe420

Well-Known Member
Interesting. At first I loaded probably half a gram on one coil then noticed a leak. I wonder if I am putting to much oil in with just one coil??? I am contacting w9 once they open. thanks for all your help.

also, will the upgrade fix this?

If you have the SR74X then you already have a fully upgraded Herc.

As @DieHard pointed out you need to slowly melt in .2-.3g to the single Ti coil. This saturates the coil and creates a buffer of oil. Then you can load more oil on top of that buffer which is what will actually be vaped. I usually load small amounts between .1 and .3g. You'll notice the flavor decreases dramatically once you vape down to the buffer oil. That is your sign to stop and load more oil.

Cool down hits are a must. I try to spend an equal time pulling air through the Herc after I have stopped pressing the button. Time spent just pulling air through to cool down your oil is really a function of at what temperature your oil solidifies to a point where it isn't viscous enough to drain through the coil and into the bottom chamber.

Make sure your Herc is heating up quickly. An improperly assembled Herc can still technically fire but take too long to heat up or not heat up fully. This can cause inconsistent or wispy hits and you'll end up riding the button in frustration while your oil just slowly cooks and drains into the bottom chamber. Take the coil out and dry fire the Herc. The ceramic rod should glow red hot very quickly. As a side note I always check the resistance of my Herc after each and every reassembly to ensure it was done properly.

Last but not least remember that the bottom chamber is called the reclaim chamber for a reason! You can always scrap out or otherwise collect any oil that has gotten into the bottom chamber and just throw it back in so it isn't wasted. The oil draining in to the bottom chamber is a feature of the Herc. If it didn't drain when it got so hot and viscous it would just sit in the upper chamber and you would eventually burn the oil. Yuck!
 

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
If you have the SR74X then you already have a fully upgraded Herc.

As @DieHard pointed out you need to slowly melt in .2-.3g to the single Ti coil. This saturates the coil and creates a buffer of oil. Then you can load more oil on top of that buffer which is what will actually be vaped. I usually load small amounts between .1 and .3g. You'll notice the flavor decreases dramatically once you vape down to the buffer oil. That is your sign to stop and load more oil.

Cool down hits are a must. I try to spend an equal time pulling air through the Herc after I have stopped pressing the button. Time spent just pulling air through to cool down your oil is really a function of at what temperature your oil solidifies to a point where it isn't viscous enough to drain through the coil and into the bottom chamber.

Make sure your Herc is heating up quickly. An improperly assembled Herc can still technically fire but take too long to heat up or not heat up fully. This can cause inconsistent or wispy hits and you'll end up riding the button in frustration while your oil just slowly cooks and drains into the bottom chamber. Take the coil out and dry fire the Herc. The ceramic rod should glow red hot very quickly. As a side note I always check the resistance of my Herc after each and every reassembly to ensure it was done properly.

Last but not least remember that the bottom chamber is called the reclaim chamber for a reason! You can always scrap out or otherwise collect any oil that has gotten into the bottom chamber and just throw it back in so it isn't wasted. The oil draining in to the bottom chamber is a feature of the Herc. If it didn't drain when it got so hot and viscous it would just sit in the upper chamber and you would eventually burn the oil. Yuck!

Wow thank you so much. I had no idea that the chamber was meant for oil to drain down into. My heater is not glowing red....... but it heats up fine where I get a hit very quickly. I think I need to disassemble then reassemble.
 
kernal6500,

elmoe420

Well-Known Member
Wow thank you so much. I had no idea that the chamber was meant for oil to drain down into. My heater is not glowing red....... but it heats up fine where I get a hit very quickly. I think I need to disassemble then reassemble.

For me the 7.4v white rod will glow red pretty quick. Checking the resistance after any reassembly is definitely the way to go though. Invest in a multimeter or the easy Ohm reader off w9tech
com. It will save you a lot of headache in the future!
 
elmoe420,
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lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
Wispy unsatisfying hits can be caused by too much oil just as easily as not enough also and yes cooldowns are a must pulling air through till your confident your oil would be stable I'm a bit ocd about it tho and after 2-3 hits I'll do cooldowns till I feel no heat at all then store on it's side till I'm ready for more

The sr74x rod 2.4ohm is a bit cooler and might not glow right away but if you have the sr71 1.7 ohm that will glow damn near instantly
 
lonelyhero,

lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
Around 2.4 but there's a little variation between rods of +- .1 maybe .2

My sr74x rod reads 2.41 my sr71 reads 1.69
 
lonelyhero,

BK89

Well-Known Member
Thanks! Mine was reading 3.6. I took it apart and saw that some oil had dripped down in between the center post and ceramic rod. Cleaned it up and now it reads 2.3 and is a nice strong hit again. Although I noticed the center post spring isn't springy anymore, the little pin just sits all the way down and doesn't bounce back up.

By the way, how does everyone else use the AAF? I have really only used it completely open.
 
BK89,

lp1066

New Member
Pretty disapointed with my W9 experience as of yesterday. I have had my 2 persei units with 3.7 and 7.4 kiss carts as well as the herc 7.4 cart since the day the sale started maybe a month ago. All was well until apparently my charger decided to go from charge to discharge. Had it vent one herc battery and completely discharge and destroy 4 others.... Yay. Called today for help and was told "all tech people are on the line, call back later"......lets just say im not happy spending over $300 on this package only to recieve a charger that looks like it was made my a six year old in malaysia that blows up $50 worth of batteries....
 
lp1066,

DieHard

Accessory supplier
Accessory Maker
Wispy unsatisfying hits can be caused by too much oil just as easily as not enough also and yes cooldowns are a must pulling air through till your confident your oil would be stable I'm a bit ocd about it tho and after 2-3 hits I'll do cooldowns till I feel no heat at all then store on it's side till I'm ready for more

The sr74x rod 2.4ohm is a bit cooler and might not glow right away but if you have the sr71 1.7 ohm that will glow damn near instantly
This can also happen with batteries that are not up to the demands of the Herc, either because they are not the right type or discharged.

Pretty disapointed with my W9 experience as of yesterday. I have had my 2 persei units with 3.7 and 7.4 kiss carts as well as the herc 7.4 cart since the day the sale started maybe a month ago. All was well until apparently my charger decided to go from charge to discharge. Had it vent one herc battery and completely discharge and destroy 4 others.... Yay. Called today for help and was told "all tech people are on the line, call back later"......lets just say im not happy spending over $300 on this package only to recieve a charger that looks like it was made my a six year old in malaysia that blows up $50 worth of batteries....
It is pretty common knowledge around here that the charger that comes with the Persei is woefully inadequate. I would recommend using a Nitecore or Xtar Charger. I use a Nitecore D2. Very reliable and a digital display too. Less than $20 on Amazon.
 

420time

Well-Known Member
you dont really need to load more if you have a vv from w9tech or a vv mod, and just run it at higher voltages 7.6v+. It is lovely
 
420time,

lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
is there any adjustment to the core inserts my shorty just doesn't want to work most of the time
 
lonelyhero,

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
...just gonna leave this here...
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