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Discontinued VRIPtech Heating Wand

Khantagious

Well-Known Member
the VHW stole the show, and sadly I couldn't test it some more.

Have you tried using it without any external seal? My black viton seal popped the very first time I heated it on the wand, and I've tried the silicone seal once or twice, but I find that I prefer just the pure glass experience. It takes a bit of "feel" to find the sweet spot where you get the best seal, but once I found it, I get a perfectly satisfactory seal
 
Khantagious,
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lazylathe

Almost there...
I started with glass on glass seal but it became a bit tiresome always adjusting the angle to get a perfect seal. My hands are pretty stable but not the greatest...
The silicone seal is my favourite way of using my VHW.
I load a bowl, place the dome on and place the wand in the bowl nice and snug.
A consistent, medium fat draw is perfect for me, milks up the WT with ease!!

I am quite liking adding a lump of shatter on top of the flowers.
Watching it bubble and disappear is cool and then watch the tube for the wall of white!

And since i am watching Game of Thrones, i name my VHW...

White-Walker!
Lmao!!
 

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
DAMN VAS....acting up again. I'm trying so hard to resist but I feel my attempts are futile.
I'll remain lurking until something happens lol...
What's up with small loads lazylathe? Like .09 or lower ? Can the vrip provide dense clouds with that amount ?
Only a matter of time now :lol::D
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
DAMN VAS....acting up again. I'm trying so hard to resist but I feel my attempts are futile.
I'll remain lurking until something happens lol...
What's up with small loads lazylathe? Like .09 or lower ? Can the vrip provide dense clouds with that amount ?
Only a matter of time now :lol::D

Not sure...
My scale is packed away for a while until we move...
I can just cover the glass screen and get about 2 to 3 very nice clouds! Just have to turn it up a bit more and control the draw speed.

I find this vape works extremely well with a packed bowl, not tamped down or anything. Then I get a lot of huge clouds, stir between hits and I am amazed every time by how dense the clouds are!

This is one vape I do not mind waiting for it to heat up to operating temp.
Not had a bad session yet!!!
 

ShadowVape

Vrip CSR
Manufacturer
The White Walker I love it!!! We get "Vapor Saber" a lot and I'm sure will more so now that Star Wars is back into the mainstream. Nice to have the ability to take rips that deliver and satisfy for awhile heh? I had someone today (old friend) who was really fond of his PAX amazed that I didn't have a portable or vape pen with me at all times. They said they figured out of anyone I would for sure have a portable vape with me always since I had been vaping longer than anyone they knew and there where so many cool ones out there.

I explained that after packing a couple of VRIPs I was so well medicated and adjusted I'd be good for hours and that every portable I had tried either didn't deliver good pulls at all or had some kind of taste I didn't think should be there or a taste that simply was not to my preference. And besides that I really, really preferred water and ice moisture conditioning. His answer: "that makes sense." Then we melted some hard candy onto a couple of flower filters with the VRIP and I'm pretty sure he didn't hit his PAX for the rest of the day. Before we hit the VRIP he tried to force me to "just try it" while the wand was warming up and I had to shoot it down on the basis of not knowing the formulation of the "mouthpiece lubricant" (I'm a bit of a stickler on these things) not the device itself, because I know the PAX is one of the portables that you can get good sized pulls from. Somehow I just wasn't feeling it knowing I'd be taking VRIPs in a matter of minutes and still needed to put water and ice in the water tool and grind the flowers anyway. Yeah, dry pulls no matter how great (or acceptable anyway) they might be just don't compare to pulls through water and ice.

My apologies on the 4.2 tip seals to anyone who had one pop --- especially if mid session that's the worst! I'm sure glad we continued to ship the legacy seals at the same time so everyone at least has functional options. The legacy seals seem to work best when trimmed narrower like the 4.2 seals so anyone who needs some back ups or popped a 4.2 seal can just hit us up at info@vriptech.com and Shadow will make sure you get a couple of the narrower cut legacy seals no cost. As an option you can also just pinch a wider legacy seal between a couple of hard surfaces with a square edge and cut down with a razer blade.

We got a message today from a customer who called the VRIP system "dabbing for flowers --- the perfect solvent-free extraction." I thought that was kind of catchy.
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Even my car is repping for Vrip now!!!
Sweet!!

IMG_1730_zpsfphq1njo.jpg
 

wax

Active Member
This vape looks interesting.. I'm a big confused about what I need. I looked on the website and there's so much on there. I think someone mentioned that a lsv wpa mates to the heat wand ?
So all I need is the heat wand essentially ?
I might get the stand and possibly a bubbler.
 

Yoosh

Well-Known Member
This vape looks interesting.. I'm a big confused about what I need. I looked on the website and there's so much on there. I think someone mentioned that a lsv wpa mates to the heat wand ?
So all I need is the heat wand essentially ?
I might get the stand and possibly a bubbler.

All you *need* is the heatwand (with your correct voltage) and a bowl. The lsv wpa does work, as does many other combustion bowls I've tried. I do believe the VCB 4.2 (latest vrip bowl) will work even better though. It is a 2 piece design with a glass screen. Sounds tasty. I'm looking forward to using it with my vhw, lsv, ev2, maybe even eq lol.

I started out with just the heatwand and have been using the lsv wpa and a mason jar to hold/warm up the wand. Next vape purchase will be the VCB 4.2 and one of their bubblers. Speaking of which, anyone have suggestions on their favorite of the 3?
 

Khantagious

Well-Known Member
I'm not even sure how you would have it sitting with the tip pointing up? Seeing as how the power cord comes straight out of the opposite end, the only options that I can physically achieve are tip down (good for heating up) and flat with tip sideways (good for keeping on extended periods).

As far as the Vriptech water tools, I have not ever tried the little BuB model, though it seems it would be the choice for anyone preferring the smaller form factor. But between the Pro and the PerK model, it is definitely worth it to get the PerK if you will use it with the VHW. The Pro model is preferable for heat gun extraction, but the PerK is tuned to have just the right airflow for the VHW.
 
Khantagious,
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Pro model plus the diffused gong downstem also provides just the right amount of resistance for the heatwand in my experience. Big shout out to Mr McCoy, ride safe brother!
A heavy based microphone stand works well to keep wand safe and the tip inverted
 
thevapedcrusader,
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biohacker

Well-Known Member
I'm not even sure how you would have it sitting with the tip pointing up?

Just by bending the cord...could use a mason jar. I figured tip down would cause overheating in the electronics and reduce lifespan greatly?

I'm pretty stoked about this vape!! All I can think about!
 
biohacker,
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ShadowVape

Vrip CSR
Manufacturer
What's up family thanks for the forum contributions. All of our VWTs (Vaporization Water Tools) are designed specifically for vapor with the beaker venturi and lazy boy kickback neck design which essentially means you'll benefit from vapor-specific thought out ergonomics for having a nice line of sight to the VCB and heat interface (literally watch the herbs brown, see vapor back draft if you pause the pull, and watch concentrates melt into flower filters if you've got the head space), a reasonable amount of drag (you probably want some for pacing vapor pulls unlike some people's preferences of as little as possible for smoking), and an ice catch on the tubes, i.e. Pro and Perk models.

I've always been fond of ice not just for the cooling, but because it takes up air volume to get the pulls going faster and also minimizes oxidation of the first pulls. Given I prefer running a lower temp and milking it skim milk blue with a primer pull or two as opposed to running a higher temp and being conscious not to over heat by cracking the seal during pauses or by increasing pull rate (still a great technique just not my preference) it's nice to have the air volume in the tube minimized by being able to pack it full of ice! I run the PerK for sure on a day to day basis when at home and on the mountain in our geodome at base camp and I run a BuB in the truck for those mobile opportunities to melt flowers that seem to magically pop up throughout the day sometimes (give thanks for manifestations of aromatic greatness in the line of "work"). I've had the opportunity to use some really, really nice glass pieces and even own a few sick pieces, but always come back to the PerK as my favorite daily driver --- it never fails to impress with it's simple super utility. There are definitely thicker and fancier and bigger pieces out there, but the PerK's ultimate utility is tough to beat for VRIPs anyway even with pieces costing multiples of what the PerK costs!

The VHWs should only be left on stand-by full melt heat settings laying relatively flat on a heat proof surface. Leaving them inverted in a stand or a mason jar or coffee mug or similar can lead to the board getting over heated and the tip seal (if you're running one) getting dried out pretty quick. Inverting in the stand, jar, or mug will enable a faster heat up though and also some people tune into the extra heat that accumulates allowing them to use a lower more conservative heat setting, but still benefit a faster milk-up --- all good, no all really, really good just don't leave it in there on full heat for extended periods --- it needs to be used, i.e. taken in and out so the heat doesn't accumulate so much that it can back up into the housing and damage the board (should take many hours of heat backing up to only maybe damage the board, but our recommendation is to keep it relatively flat for extended full heat stand-by or just simply plan ahead for the next session instead of leaving it on or you can also use a low heat stand-by mode that will still benefit a faster heat up). Hope that helps clarify and definitely don't hold up sending an email to info@vriptech.com for ShadowVape to field any questions regarding product or usage tips.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Great write up! But just a little confused on the "inverted"..... so I get that it's "best" to just lay the wand flat on a heat proof surface especially at high temps. But i'm wondering about keeping the tip of the wand "up" in a jar or mug. Will doing that cause the same harm as simply putting it in your stock glass stand with the tip down? I understand it's okay to do on lower temps, but just wondering if I even really NEED the stock glass stand? Just trying to figure out a way to make the wand, bowl, and perk bubbler affordable. I was thinking of the 007 kit, but don't really need the pelican case and now, apparently the glass stand. I LOVE that little bubbler too!

Just wanted to say that the quality of the Perk is amazing, and I agree it's like the best water tool i've ever used. It hurt when I busted the downstem though!
 
biohacker,
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Khantagious

Well-Known Member
Just by bending the cord...could use a mason jar. I figured tip down would cause overheating in the electronics and reduce lifespan greatly?

Gotcha, in that case, I don't think that tip-up has any advantage or disadvantage over sideways, as long as the electronics are not sitting directly above the heating element for extended periods of on-time.
 

ShadowVape

Vrip CSR
Manufacturer
Khantagious nailed it from my experience I usually just have a typical ceramic plate next to the stand. We have had customers make mic stands and even a funny looking plastic monkey that was intended to hold a bunch of bananas work as VRIP stands! The best set-ups are the retractable cords from the ceilings if you have the space and latitude though. Then you can never drop the VHW only swing it a little.
 

Nebu

Post-Apocalyptic Renaissance Man
even a funny looking plastic monkey that was intended to hold a bunch of bananas work as VRIP stands!

Ha. I remember that! & the ritual was you must hit the button and make the monkey laugh after each vrip. EDDY!!!!!!!!!!!! lol!

3078565009_9e35956fd8_z.jpg


Has Vriptech ever tested to see how the VHW fares when subjected to an extended, heated in-stand scenario? I did so just once (so far), unintentionally. The stand was quite hot, but the electronics were just mildly warm (<140°F). Come on Vriptech QA. Try and melt a VHW. :science:
 

ShadowVape

Vrip CSR
Manufacturer
There's that monkey! Truth be told we've never damaged a VHW left on full glow in the stand in-house by accident or for QA (it's QA if one of us forgets it in the stand), but have seen a few abused customer units from using jars or deeper cups as stands and forgetting about it so know it's possible and just issue the precautions to play it way safe. In our optional VHW stands which don't go all the way up the housing the hottest you should be able to get it leaving it in there indefinitely without taking it out is probably right there 130-140F with the VHW 3.0 units wide open --- thanks for the metric Nebu that sounds about right on. That sounds hot, but it's actually pretty amazing considering just centimeters away it's 300+F and farther up it's 400+F at the inside of the glass cover at the tip where it glows orange. If you laid it flat and left it on wide open the hottest it would get at the top of the board is probably barely above room temp.

We actually did test three different depths for the stands many years ago to figure out the ideal depth so that you get the stand with insulating you want to heat it up faster and yet if you forget it and leave it on it won't get hot enough to damage the top of the board. We discolored some of the housing inserts and tip seals, but didn't actually cause any of the test wands to fail leaving them on for days. They just glowed like hot light bulbs. We switched to a higher temp material for the housing plug as a result of that QA abuse experience so even if you did abuse it here and there unintentionally the board would be better insulated from the heat and there would be no material discoloration. They take the heat and keep on giving it. Clean heat.
 

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
I really like the look an feel of this vape. Just from reading as I don't have one yet. YET.
I'm worried about when I'm not hitting it and it's on. If I put it in a jar won't the heat mess with it?
What is the proper way to store it inbetween hits ?
Thanks everyone the flavor is calling to me on this one.
 
Mrmrmrmr,

ShadowVape

Vrip CSR
Manufacturer
Good questions and thanks for taking a look Mrmrmrmr. Using a mason jar or a deep mug/cup as a stand is all good for a faster heat up and many of our customers go this route as a more stable and less expensive option to getting our stand which looks and functions great, but is lighter than a mason jar and many mugs and does require you manage the strain on the power cord so you don't knock it over accidentally (same thing with jars and mugs just to a lesser extent with some). What you don't want to do is just leave the VHW on full heat in there all day/over night as you'll end up shortening the lifespan of the silicon tip seal (if you use one) and you could damage the top of the board (closest to the heat) where the leads connect. The reality is we've only seen thermal board damage a few times (out of thousands of units out there) and the units we saw it on where clearly used and abused, but we put the precaution out there to be safe. As long as you simply lay it on a flat heat proof surface (we usually just use a ceramic plate) you can leave it on stand-by heat for days no worries as long as you don't have kids, pets or anyone or thing else that could knock it off the heat proof surface. Be safe family!

The stands/jars/mugs/cups that are sometimes used will hold the heat in so well that over hours and hours it will accumulate and poses a threat, not a certainty, of board damage (depends upon depth and how much of the handle/housing is insulated) so we play it safe and advise against extended full stand-by heat while inverted in anything. You can simply go to a lower stand-by heat setting and still benefit a faster heat up when you're ready to session or you can go flat heat proof surface and no worries with stand-by heat.

That said, many of our customers do prefer to have a stand/jar/mug/cup for VRIP sessions precisely because they have tuned into the accumulated heat that not only gives you a faster pre-session heat up of the wand, but will give you a little extra heat on the primer pull each time you pull it out after being in there even just for a minute or two while the next bowl is getting packed. This will get the extraction going faster and then the temp quickly falls off to the setting you have dialed on the potentiometer to keep it clean. It just means you don't have to pull as slow on the primer pull, but be aware if using this technique so you don't overbrown. When it's inverted the heat stays in there and more of the thermal mass of the glass cover actually heats up and heats up hotter than if it's laying flat and not surrounded --- you can use this to your advantage just don't forget about the possible implications of forgetting about it is the moral of our experience.
 
ShadowVape,

Nebu

Post-Apocalyptic Renaissance Man
What is the heat up time generally speaking ?
IME, ~ 5 minutes... or about the time it takes to change out the water in my perk, clean out the bowl ABV from prev sesh, grind and pack a new one. I do probably run cooler than most... been vaping exclusively since '98 & prefer purer vapor (bluish, quickly dissipating vs "milk" clouds, which IMHO = combustion/vapor hybrid hits). I do notice slightly longer warm up times (~7-8 min?) required now with glass-on-glass VHW to VCB seal. The VHW is likely @ the same heat but I need it to run a bit hotter due to slight cooling effects of pass-through air that doesn't happen when using the silicone tip. I should put that tip-seal on to verify. Oh, this is also using the stand,

VHWStand-th.jpg


which insulates and allows for more rapid heat-up.
 
Nebu,
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