Tek BHO: BEST way to purge without vacuum?

herbivore21 · May 13, 2015

Whoa, so much I could add here but alas, no time.

But here are a few brief points:

- It is better to overpurge than underpurge. If you are unsure (and frequently IME even when you are sure); no bubbles are good bubbles in your finished product. If your product is slick/wet on an oil slick mat and doesn't readily come off on a dabber (even if fully decarbed oil!), it has residual solvent. Don't dab it, finish the purge.

- Anxiety sufferers, dabbing oils with residual solvent will give you bad anxiety and potentially even panic attacks. Avoid.

- Winterizing does not necessarily have to cause any noticable loss of taste except for the taste of waxes and fats themselves. My concentrates are all winterized and I guarantee you they will take the pepsi challenge with the best oils you guys have ever tried. Winterizing can indeed lead to more evaporation of actives due to multiple purges, if you are sloppy with your technique, you are twice as likely to cook off the goods here.

However, properly winterized concentrates beat everything I've ever had. Flowers, kief, bubble, rosin, wax, sap. So much clearer of an effect, tastes so smooth and delicious without any harshness on the airways unless you inhale far too much vapor!

Purging without a vac is quite possible, I've been doing it for a long time with my own proprietary designed setup and tek. Many do not realize I don't use a vac myself because I sometimes help people out with their vac purge tek lol

Here are some pics of the products of my no butane tech (ISO and/or ETHANOL ONLY!) meds. The top one is Cluster Bomb Live Resin, tastes like candy with the richest fresh plant flavour and a clean, fruity citrus flavour that would have you swearing that this stuff must be healthy to consume! The next one is ACDC Bomb (<.02% THC/THCA ACDC x THC Bomb, formulated for a 1:1 THC:CBD ratio). The last one is Blue Cheese. All winterized, all sterilized with sub-micron filtration.

Aim high guys, you can get incredible results without a vac - but always purge out that solvent. No solvent is good solvent!

fogvalley · May 23, 2015

I have wanted to try bho, been doing qwet and my first wash has never produced chlor I filter twice and everything stays in the freezer for about 6 hrs. Open air evaporate. I end up with app 1 gram per eighth first wash that always looks like some kinda dirty meth to coke. But why should I switch to bho and EC? But after doing numorous runs I can't see why. Add to my cost so it looks a little different. I make wejuice for e-vapes so I can and do add flavoring I can still taste the weed a bit. I just wanna learn wish this woulda been offered in college.

bdmonkeyj3w · May 23, 2015

fogvalley said:
I have wanted to try bho, been doing qwet and my first wash has never produced chlor I filter twice and everything stays in the freezer for about 6 hrs. Open air evaporate. I end up with app 1 gram per eighth first wash that always looks like some kinda dirty meth to coke. But why should I switch to bho and EC? But after doing numorous runs I can't see why. Add to my cost so it looks a little different. I make wejuice for e-vapes so I can and do add flavoring I can still taste the weed a bit. I just wanna learn wish this woulda been offered in college.

Ive done qwet qwiso and a couple other methods of making oil, but bho is the fastest. Stainless steel turkey baster and good butane is all you need. I wrote a pretty thorough step by step earlier on this thread, but i can get up to 3 grams of oil in less than an hour off that method.

mickdabz · May 31, 2015

amberevil said:
Winterizing will cost you mostly all of your flavor and your spending more money on a second solvent every time. Keep that money and get a vac and chamber from http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/ They have kits I think as low as 175 plus they have all glass ones, thats what I have. Even with the vacuum chamber its hard to tell if there is butane in it. I use whip it premium butane and there is still butane in it even after you can taste it. The nail sizzled.

And I dont know about everyone else but putting butane (even residual amounts) in an oven that has a pilot light is a huge NO. Sounds like a ticking time bomb. Over time the butane goes nowhere, just settles.

After the Bho stops bubbling at a high rate an u can scrap it up the butane I's in mostly gone it could cause a small flame but it is just a flash then done...how ever over Burns most of taste out....stay well brosji

WaxITup420 · Aug 22, 2015

Snake Plissken said:
I don't know about 'best', but my last run was totally clear/amber shatter w/o a vac.

I did a typical butane extraction into mason jars w/ a qp of trim. When the butane was mostly evaporated, but not thick, I slowly added 1/2 bottle of everclear (1bottle/half pound) to the mason jars. You should see a pretty dramatic interaction (bubbling). Let sit for about 1/2 hour (w/ just an occasional stir) till all bubbling stops. Now wait, and in about 1/2 hour the real interaction (winterization) will start (quite visible 'roiling'). place in freezer for 12 hours. After 12 hours, remove from freezer and strain off into individual glass containers w/ coffee filters, return to freezer while straining. To make shatter, you must do thin pours (thick pours = budder), so you only want about 2" of liquid in a pounder glass as each of these glasses will be an individual pour.

At this point, you should prepare your stovetop to evap the mixture. I used pots of water w/ pyrex dishes on top (kind of double boiler method). I had 2 setups going, if you stagger pours you can keep the operation flowing smoothly. I tried to keep the water below any real boil - just the bubbles that appear at the bottom of the pan. At this time, you also want to make sure your scraping setup is prepared. I laid out a piece of parchment paper w/ lots of clean razor blades.

Take out 1 of the glasses from freezer and remove filter (all the fats, etc will be visibe on filter). pour into pyrex dish on hot water. the mixture will go cloudy, then clear, then form beads of oil (about 15-30 min). After totally clear and beaded, take a blade and 'smush' down all of the beads and return to heat for 20 min to get any last trapped impurities. Once you figure out your timing, you can start a 2nd pyrex dish (on a 2nd pot of water) partway through the 1st 1 finishing.

Now it's time to collect your goodies. Using individual blades to collect the oil, scrape pyrex from one end to the other. When blade is loaded, place on parchment paper to cool. This process is much easier to do if you keep the pyrex on heat to make the product more pliable. After just a minute, you should be able to 'snap' the glass off of one blade w/ another to start your pile of absolute shatter. Be careful not to lift and relower the blade while scraping as this will cause visual imperfections.

This is what I did, but recommend anybody evaluate safety concerns/applicable laws for themselves. I had a return of 14 grams off of a qp of trim. There is a pic of the finished product in 'share that dab stash'. It's the one that looks kinda like hashbrowns due to the individual scrapes.

I just finished with my first attempt at making shatter with no Vaccum only heat and

WaxITup420 · Aug 22, 2015

Snake Plissken said:
I don't know about 'best', but my last run was totally clear/amber shatter w/o a vac.

I did a typical butane extraction into mason jars w/ a qp of trim. When the butane was mostly evaporated, but not thick, I slowly added 1/2 bottle of everclear (1bottle/half pound) to the mason jars. You should see a pretty dramatic interaction (bubbling). Let sit for about 1/2 hour (w/ just an occasional stir) till all bubbling stops. Now wait, and in about 1/2 hour the real interaction (winterization) will start (quite visible 'roiling'). place in freezer for 12 hours. After 12 hours, remove from freezer and strain off into individual glass containers w/ coffee filters, return to freezer while straining. To make shatter, you must do thin pours (thick pours = budder), so you only want about 2" of liquid in a pounder glass as each of these glasses will be an individual pour.

At this point, you should prepare your stovetop to evap the mixture. I used pots of water w/ pyrex dishes on top (kind of double boiler method). I had 2 setups going, if you stagger pours you can keep the operation flowing smoothly. I tried to keep the water below any real boil - just the bubbles that appear at the bottom of the pan. At this time, you also want to make sure your scraping setup is prepared. I laid out a piece of parchment paper w/ lots of clean razor blades.

Take out 1 of the glasses from freezer and remove filter (all the fats, etc will be visibe on filter). pour into pyrex dish on hot water. the mixture will go cloudy, then clear, then form beads of oil (about 15-30 min). After totally clear and beaded, take a blade and 'smush' down all of the beads and return to heat for 20 min to get any last trapped impurities. Once you figure out your timing, you can start a 2nd pyrex dish (on a 2nd pot of water) partway through the 1st 1 finishing.

Now it's time to collect your goodies. Using individual blades to collect the oil, scrape pyrex from one end to the other. When blade is loaded, place on parchment paper to cool. This process is much easier to do if you keep the pyrex on heat to make the product more pliable. After just a minute, you should be able to 'snap' the glass off of one blade w/ another to start your pile of absolute shatter. Be careful not to lift and relower the blade while scraping as this will cause visual imperfections.

This is what I did, but recommend anybody evaluate safety concerns/applicable laws for themselves. I had a return of 14 grams off of a qp of trim. There is a pic of the finished product in 'share that dab stash'. It's the one that looks kinda like hashbrowns due to the individual scrapes.

I just finished with my first attempt at making shatter with no Vaccum only heat and

Snake Plissken said:
I don't know about 'best', but my last run was totally clear/amber shatter w/o a vac.

I did a typical butane extraction into mason jars w/ a qp of trim. When the butane was mostly evaporated, but not thick, I slowly added 1/2 bottle of everclear (1bottle/half pound) to the mason jars. You should see a pretty dramatic interaction (bubbling). Let sit for about 1/2 hour (w/ just an occasional stir) till all bubbling stops. Now wait, and in about 1/2 hour the real interaction (winterization) will start (quite visible 'roiling'). place in freezer for 12 hours. After 12 hours, remove from freezer and strain off into individual glass containers w/ coffee filters, return to freezer while straining. To make shatter, you must do thin pours (thick pours = budder), so you only want about 2" of liquid in a pounder glass as each of these glasses will be an individual pour.

At this point, you should prepare your stovetop to evap the mixture. I used pots of water w/ pyrex dishes on top (kind of double boiler method). I had 2 setups going, if you stagger pours you can keep the operation flowing smoothly. I tried to keep the water below any real boil - just the bubbles that appear at the bottom of the pan. At this time, you also want to make sure your scraping setup is prepared. I laid out a piece of parchment paper w/ lots of clean razor blades.

Take out 1 of the glasses from freezer and remove filter (all the fats, etc will be visibe on filter). pour into pyrex dish on hot water. the mixture will go cloudy, then clear, then form beads of oil (about 15-30 min). After totally clear and beaded, take a blade and 'smush' down all of the beads and return to heat for 20 min to get any last trapped impurities. Once you figure out your timing, you can start a 2nd pyrex dish (on a 2nd pot of water) partway through the 1st 1 finishing.

Now it's time to collect your goodies. Using individual blades to collect the oil, scrape pyrex from one end to the other. When blade is loaded, place on parchment paper to cool. This process is much easier to do if you keep the pyrex on heat to make the product more pliable. After just a minute, you should be able to 'snap' the glass off of one blade w/ another to start your pile of absolute shatter. Be careful not to lift and relower the blade while scraping as this will cause visual imperfections.

This is what I did, but recommend anybody evaluate safety concerns/applicable laws for themselves. I had a return of 14 grams off of a qp of trim. There is a pic of the finished product in 'share that dab stash'. It's the one that looks kinda like hashbrowns due to the individual scrapes.

First attempt at bho... 1. Purged 1oz. Dry flowers using 350ml can Vector x14 into 9×9 pyrex.
2. Removed flowers and ground up, then purged again using another 350ml vector x14
3. After letting butane evap to handle easier I scraped the pyrex and put wax into shot glass and filled with everclear (~2oz everclear)
4. After letting sit 12 hrs in the freezer I ran the liquid threw 2 unbleached coffee filters and poured the now clean liquid back into the pyrex dish
5. I then put the pyrex on a grittle @ 100-110° and a reptile uv/heat lamp (60watt about 1-2ft above for about an hour)

After all of this I ended up with a bit of a runny consistency still. Should I let it evap more?? I've tried the product as it is now and it has great flavor and definitely has a great euphoric feeling! No crackling or popping when touching hot nail, just not the consistency I was looking for. Any idea of where I went wrong if at all??

P.s.
I have pictures of the whole process step by step if my description wasn't specific enough.
Thanks for your help!!

mikek9 · Aug 22, 2015

You can look up hashmasta-kut's purge technique (Google hashmasta kut tutorial). He does all his purges without a vac. It's really pretty straightforward. I'll look up the link and post it here.

Ok, here is the part about purging.

"Well as mentioned, I do a hot water bath(tap hot) to get rid of the liquid butane, then I take it inside and put it on the stove to keep it hot for about a half hour or a bit more. Turn the element on a couple times, just to maintain the heat of the hot water bath to be very hot( not too close to boiling but fairly hot). also I have found very helpful for effective purging is to cover the pyrex pie plate with a lid. i have a glass dish which fits well, and then the oil gets and remains much hotter on its surface, as well as underneath. seems much more effective with a lid. then i open the lid a few times(every 5-10 minutes), and heat treat from above with a butane torch to pop any butane bubbles... and generally just overall lightly warm the whole surface too. Depending on amount it may take just one time with the torch, or possibly a few times may be needed wih a thicker mass of oil. More oil has more flaming bubbles. 10 minutes a gram of extract produced seems adequate, for a few grams. If you do lots of oil I would recommend only about 7 grams maximum per plate for full purges achieved with this method. "

foothilla · Oct 13, 2017

I too want to purge without using a vac, and I live in Cali, where you can't get Everclear. I don't have many options, so this is my question:

Will time and patience alone eventually purge BHO? I realize most are in a rush to get to their concentrates, so they try to speed up the purge. But I am in no rush at all. So, if I just let BHO sit out for weeks, or even months - will it eventually purge naturally?

The whole batch is only about 4 grams of BHO. I don't want to invest a bunch of money into equipment for 4 measly grams of BHO. But, I don't want to inhale any Butane.

Tek BHO: BEST way to purge without vacuum?

herbivore21

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fogvalley

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bdmonkeyj3w

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mickdabz

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WaxITup420

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WaxITup420

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mikek9

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foothilla

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