Arizer Solo

poonman

Well-Known Member
The earliest versions had a ceramic coated oven chamber .
Some started to flake and chip off in their ovens .
Few members that experienced this , thought it was a health concern .
They wanted and some even Got to keep their old ceramic ones, while getting
a new replaced SS oven Solo . iirc

I think that's when Arizer made the decision to go SS
permanently , to stave off any more returns in the future .

I too prefer using the PA , to conserve battery.
 
I've got a problem I'm hoping someone can help me resolve. I stripped the top cap threads on my Solo trying to install one of those damn o-rings. So the upshot is that I no longer have a top cap on my Solo. Surprisingly enough, it still works just fine without it, but my PVHES GonG fits too loosely to work effectively. So I am trying to figure out what size heat-resistant o-ring will fit directly on the GonG itself (see arrow in pic) and where I can find one. It's a 14mm, turbo shorty. Can anyone help me out?

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OF

Well-Known Member
One last question, would it be possible to load the potpourri bowl with shatter/concentrate and then hold the glass mouthpiece over it and vape shatter like that? I only have about 2.5 grams left of concentrates, but it would be really nice to finish it off with a true vape, even though nails/buckets are KINDA vaporizing.

No, that's not going to work, it won't get hot enough.

However, you can make a 'sandwich' of such goodies with a bit of herb above and below to catch and hold any leaks until they vape off. Lots of folks love it that way.

The earliest versions had a ceramic coated oven chamber. Some started to flake and chip off in their ovens .

I think that's when Arizer made the decision to go SS
permanently , to stave off any more returns in the future .

I too prefer using the PA , to conserve battery.

Yep, the risk is the chips, not 'stinky bowls'. I'm not sure if I'd prefer ceramic (I might?), but it's just not an option any more. SS is the right material I think as well.

And of course you prefer the PA when you can, you're a knowledgeable and discerning user, right? And irresistible to women everywhere I hear......is that true?


I've got a problem I'm hoping someone can help me resolve. I stripped the top cap threads on my Solo trying to install one of those damn o-rings.

Sorry you had troubles, lots of guys did when the 'how to do it' got separated from 'what to do'. The rings need fitting, you can't use the cap to clamp down or you run the risk of stripping the cap (as you found out) or breaking the tabs on the base. You want at most 1/4 turn after contact. At most. Guys who 'clamp down until it's tight enough' are setting themselves up.

And the original idea got away, too. It was intended to stop the bent stem from rotating on it's own. Guys expect more than that because they 'read it on the web'.

The ring sizes commonly used for that mod are still correct to grip the GonG, it's the normal ring ID that matters. But without a cap to hold it, it's just a rubber band on the glass (it won't fix anything).

You've got three options to fix the cap problem I know of. You can 'egg' the mouth of the cap (make it out of round) so the threads mesh at several points rather than 'all around'. I recommend 3 sides as opposed to two. The aluminum is hard but yields fairly easily. Take it slowly and you should be fine. I've done this, it works. You can also put a few wraps of PTFE tape on the body threads, more if needed, but remember to take it gently as you can strip the Teflon and have to start over. I've done this too, testing ideas. Lastly, some guys have replaced the body and cap, easy enough to do via the four screws on the bottom. You might try Arizer, or perhaps PIU? Randy has sold used units for parts to others, you have working electronics so a dead unit with sound body????

OF
 
Sorry you had troubles, lots of guys did when the 'how to do it' got separated from 'what to do'. The rings need fitting, you can't use the cap to clamp down or you run the risk of stripping the cap (as you found out) or breaking the tabs on the base. You want at most 1/4 turn after contact. At most. Guys who 'clamp down until it's tight enough' are setting themselves up.

And the original idea got away, too. It was intended to stop the bent stem from rotating on it's own. Guys expect more than that because they 'read it on the web'.

The ring sizes commonly used for that mod are still correct to grip the GonG, it's the normal ring ID that matters. But without a cap to hold it, it's just a rubber band on the glass (it won't fix anything).

You've got three options to fix the cap problem I know of. You can 'egg' the mouth of the cap (make it out of round) so the threads mesh at several points rather than 'all around'. I recommend 3 sides as opposed to two. The aluminum is hard but yields fairly easily. Take it slowly and you should be fine. I've done this, it works. You can also put a few wraps of PTFE tape on the body threads, more if needed, but remember to take it gently as you can strip the Teflon and have to start over. I've done this too, testing ideas. Lastly, some guys have replaced the body and cap, easy enough to do via the four screws on the bottom. You might try Arizer, or perhaps PIU? Randy has sold used units for parts to others, you have working electronics so a dead unit with sound body????

OF

I'm glad to know at least that I'm not the only one who has done that. Yeah, it's basically a brand new unit with stripped cap threads now. My thinking was that if I could find an o-ring with an ID that fits the notch on the GonG with an OD that provides a snug fit in the chamber. Kind of a shot in the dark, probably doesn't exist.

Thanks for the fix ideas. Since the threads are crapped anyway, I will try egg-ing it like you describe and go from there.

My PVHES stem fits fairly snug without an o-ring, but the GonG just wobbles. I can use it, but I have to be very careful with it.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the fix ideas. Since the threads are crapped anyway, I will try egg-ing it like you describe and go from there.

My PVHES stem fits fairly snug without an o-ring, but the GonG just wobbles. I can use it, but I have to be very careful with it.

One of the used ones from PIU came with stripped threads, I fixed it by pressing the side of the cap down on the deck and 'rocking' toward the open end. In 3 places 120 degrees from one another. Be careful starting it on, but it works fine. It left for trial a while ago with a 'friend of a friend' and never came back.....IMO guy got a great (used) Solo at a great price, I hope he's enjoying it.

You might try a turn or two of PTFE tape on the GonG OD. If you're gentle it should last many removals and insertions and is easily changed out. The material is safe at these temperatures. I've never tried this, but don't see a problem with it.

Good luck.

OF
 

blazedd

Well-Known Member
Hmm.. I just found the e-nano epic vape and it actually seems like a really nice alternative.
OF, do you happen to own an e-nano or hit one and could do a quick comparison?

I'm thinking it's actually ideal for me because it seems more powerful but just not portable. I really want a powerful vape for pairing up with glass bongs/bubblers on a daily basis, 10+ times a day at least. I don't really care for portability, but very much care about quality. Which would you guys recommend?
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Hmm.. I just found the e-nano epic vape and it actually seems like a really nice alternative.
OF, do you happen to own an e-nano or hit one and could do a quick comparison?

I'm thinking it's actually ideal for me because it seems more powerful but just not portable. I really want a powerful vape for pairing up with glass bongs/bubblers on a daily basis, 10+ times a day at least. I don't really care for portability, but very much care about quality. Which would you guys recommend?
The Nano gives you more vapor faster, the Solo I can hit my bong with it at my desk and disconnect it and keep vaping outside. Apples and watermelons!
 

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
what about the bottom plate? (mine has some broken/missing pieces around the screws)
The bottom plate is actually the shell that holds the electronics board, can't be replaced. The best way fix the cracks is to put tiny washers under the screws(before the cracks appear).
Brother Pipes here on the forum has a kit that will help with the repair. The charging base included will conceal the damage or just cut some Velcro to fit.

By the way, when I lost my cap I sent to Arizer they charged me only $5.00.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
If you know how to paint you can use any color you like!

I know how to paint, and it didn't work out at all well. I even took the cap down and got special paint for metal.

But there were lots of fingerprints left in the finish and that paint was a real PITA to get off my fingers. The other stuff (for paper) easily washes off and is much better that way. But it doesn't work well on the Solo.....

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I know how to paint, and it didn't work out at all well. I even took the cap down and got special paint for metal.

But there were lots of fingerprints left in the finish and that paint was a real PITA to get off my fingers. The other stuff (for paper) easily washes off and is much better that way. But it doesn't work well on the Solo.....

OF
I sand and prime and put on latex gloves before applying paint.

I ordered a AIR tip to make a PonG $9.99 was the charge.
 

Detonator

Well-Known Member
After fixxing my Solo twice and getting some parts from Puff it Up (Thanks Again!),,,,, it worked fine for about 2 weeks then quit again...

So I contacted Arizer and I realized it was still 2 weeks before the 2 year warranty was up.. So I sent it in and 10 days later I now have a new one..

I'm glad they didn't ask why my old Solo had new parts in it.. Or gave me any crap about trying to fix it myself...

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OF

Well-Known Member
Mine was 9.99 including shipping?

Maybe they like you better. Or maybe a different 'they'?

I'm not sure but think I've bought single ones for ten shipped. I usually buy with something else so the shipping is included or disguised. Last time I bought several of the short ones (finally available) and a couple of the (shorter) Air all glass stems from Arizer. They charged me for shipping but I more than made up on 'the point spread' between the US and Canadian dollar. They were under ten bucks each US total.

OF
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
I was able to get the Pinnacle wt to work with my Solo but prefer a bubbler. The Do20 works well with my Solo but not with my Nano. @ataxian suggested another bubbler for the nano. Hey @ataxian troubles with the nano? You're my go to glass guy.

Edit
The Pinncle water tool takes the 14mm GonG. The F-Bomb comes in both 14mm and 18mm sizes.
 
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