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Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

interesting to see how this evolved...

a few years back when the first rosin thread was posted on icmag i was living in spain, so cheap hash was plentiful. i remember smearing an egg of maroc hash over a plate that i had heated in the microwave - it actually did work, much to my surprise :D

i don't ike concentrates (too strong for me to enjoy), but i might actually try pressing some buds one of these days - i'd finally have a reason to use that curve that i got with my minitube...
 

Been Vapin

Fringe Class
As far as I know silicone free parchment paper doesn't exist. Pretty sure it's the silicone coating that makes it parchment paper. I searched and searched for silicone free and found some on a website but if you went to the actual manufacturers website it listed silicone.

Anyways I'm still doing work with my broken hair straightener for the time being lol. Never had my parchment paper degrade unless I was pressing too hot.

Goji OG
uSItMZm.jpg


HQ5z66c.jpg



This stuff is silicon free. Don't know how well it works for rosin though.

http://www.baar.com/Merchant2/merch...arch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=



I had this stuff in my bookmarks, but not 100% sure its silicon free. Will have to do more research. Someone said they use a silicon like substance.

For Information call:
800-523-WRAP
Ph: 214-357-0099
Fax: 214-352-1029
Dallas, Texas
E-mail: mail@regencywraps.com



http://www.amazon.com/Regency-Natural-non-Stick-Parchment-Baking/dp/B001GEZ4W8
 
Been Vapin,

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
"No silicone added" leads me to believe there is still silicone present. Kind of like how some ice cream will say"no sugar added" but will be loaded with sugar.

Found this while googling about Regency

"I emailed regency and they said some of there papers have a proprietry "silicone-like" coating and others have a quillon coating."

AFAIK quillon isn't any better than silicone.
 
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Been Vapin

Fringe Class
Parchment paper is actually a heavy-duty paper. It’s created by pressing paper into sheets and then dipping them into an acid bath. The paper is then washed and passed over several hot rotating drums, which realign the fibers. It’s the realignment of fibers that gives the parchment paper its strength. After that the parchment paper is either coated with silicone, or not.

Q: What is the difference between silicone coated and non-silicone parchment?
A:
The primary difference is the “stiffness” of the paper. Silicone coated parchment tends to be stiffer than non-silicone coated. Parchment paper gets it’s “non-stick” surface through the production process. The non-stick surface is actually a gelatinous surface that results from the manufacturing process. The silicone just gives an extra weight to the paper, making it a little more heavy duty at higher temperatures.


http://www.palisadespaper.com/faq.php


On page 32 or 33 on icmag rosin thread they were discussing parchment papers. Check it out.
 
Been Vapin,
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Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
From the IC thread

Again, fantasy land. There website state's COVERED WITH SILICONE. You started off willing to learn, now your just grasping at straws arguing parchment paper is plastic free. They just use a natural base for their plastic in lue of petroleum (for the environment, not for your direct health) The poisons used to make plastic are still present, just mixed with an all-natural base."

I'm honestly not concerned with it though. I haven't had any extra taste in my rosin and as I stated earlier I've never noticed any degradation unless my iron got much too hot.
 

CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
Damn it, all the rest of the machines @farscaper uses are gone....I knew I should have gotten one. Now they make you get it with the baseball cap thing and it's now $225. I bet gecko got wise and was seeing the 6x6 flying out...now they bundle to get rid of baseball cap crap stock and we pay more...least that's my theory lol.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Damn it, all the rest of the machines @farscaper uses are gone....I knew I should have gotten one. Now they make you get it with the baseball cap thing and it's now $225. I bet gecko got wise and was seeing the 6x6 flying out...now they bundle to get rid of baseball cap crap stock and we pay more...least that's my theory lol.

there are better options now really... id rather have more pressure than they can produce if I were in the market.... really should have a look at foundation extracts on ig.... id go that route if I could do it over.
 

CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
I will take a look

Edit: Ok, what am I looking at? That press thing? How is it heated? ...looks very expensive. Or is it the tea bags they speak of? Sorry, a little lost on the IG page...I mean I see the results, seen some of those vids before...remember, I can only do this in a bedroom and have to stash my equipment so what you have @farscaper is cool because I have several soccer jerseys with patches and if I'm questioned about the device I can say it's for re-adhering the patches on the jerseys since mashing them loosens the patches over time occasionally. So, not sure where to go from here...I still have my qwiso setup but I'd like to go to this. Also, I don't want to start with a flatiron and "practice"...I want what I'm going to use consistently...and I want it as efficient as possible without breaking the bank...the heated patch/label press so far looks like the best bet so far with that in mind.
Comments?
 
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CrazyDiamond,
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
I will take a look

Edit: Ok, what am I looking at? That press thing? How is it heated? ...looks very expensive. Or is it the tea bags they speak of? Sorry, a little lost on the IG page...I mean I see the results, seen some of those vids before...remember, I can only do this in a bedroom and have to stash my equipment so what you have @farscaper is cool because I have several soccer jerseys with patches and if I'm questioned about the device I can say it's for re-adhering the patches on the jerseys since mashing them loosens the patches over time occasionally. So, not sure where to go from here...I still have my qwiso setup but I'd like to go to this. Also, I don't want to start with a flatiron and "practice"...I want what I'm going to use consistently...and I want it as efficient as possible without breaking the bank...the heated patch/label press so far looks like the best bet so far with that in mind.
Comments?
oh the patch press DOES work. you just have to do some yoga poses while standing on it to get the max weight possible. but as far as self contained ready to go heaters it works nice. I still prefer to compact the buds into a puck and then squish that into a coin. with the heat press. I do not use any screen or anything.... I do at least 2 presses at basically the same temp back to back...

place press... stand on it for 10 seconds at 250 and then pop it open open the parchment and move the canna coin while still warm [dont burn yourself its 250 degrees right now] then replace it and repress it.

I always end up with shatter.

actually ive taken to warming the parchment over the enail before I scrape off a dab cause otherwise it flings everywhere like shatter bho.

I always preheat my bottom plate for 300 seconds for total thermal equilibrium producing maximum temp control.

fun fact: rosin spits and bubbles like unpurged bho if u let it heat up slowly on a flat dabber. this is due to the moisture content of the rosin but that doesnt mean its just water.... its hydrosol which is also what terpene water is referenced as. if you let it set until all the bubbles quit rolling you are left with a decarbed flavorless oil.

I wonder how many solvent heads still overpurge thinking if they see a bubble its solvent. I personally can see the difference when solvent purging but... if u were just looking at bubbles... you may not ever even know when your purge was really done and when you started to loose all your terps.

not with rosin!

edit: I guess ive been using 260f not 250f found out when I turned the masher on this morning. [thanks to memory presets!]
 
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
What are you using for a puck/coin combo...great write up by the way :rockon::tup:
my puck maker is extremely complicated and technical so please prepare to take notes as there will beva test afterwards.

actually its the same thing I was using before. 1/2 schedule40 pvc tube and a wooden dowel rod....
pack tube
insert rod
place bottom of tube on parchment to prevent sticking
smack dowel with hammer until it will compress no more.

done.

I will note that you CAN make the puck to thick and prevent the technique from helping. I try to keep them 1/2" thick or smaller (2-3cm)

also be sure to break it up a bit and remove stems as they act like a sponge when heated... absorbing all your golden goodness... as do leaves.

edit: gramatic clarification: puck refers to the compressed disc before heat pressing and coin refers to the post heat squished puck.

literally one looks like a coin and one looks like a hockey puck.... in our fc economy the coins could be used as currency.... Instead of green colored clothpaper we would use plant based usable currency.... trade it... or vape it.
:tup:
 

Hoosier

Well-Known Member
I am still finding my best use of 'coins' is ground up via coffee grrinder and consumed in pax at high heat.... Then all that abv gets used in badkat's abv caps recipe....

Getting rosin, convection vape, and abv pills all out of the same original product...that's stretching your investment :)
 

Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
If lower temps/higher pressures are workable how about this:
Drill a very small hole in one end of a good pollen press.
Cut a disc to fit inside the press out of a very fine (micron?) stainless mesh such as available for some coffee presses.
Install mesh in pollen press.
Put entire press in oven to soak at desired (low?) temp'
Using oven mitts, pull press out of oven and mash a nug in it till rosin drips out hole.

I'd test this myself, but haven't got a good press, or herb ATM.

I suspect that it may be a dumb idea, but I figure my very first post here is allowed to be dumb, right?:)
 

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
I will note that you CAN make the puck to thick and prevent the technique from helping. I try to keep them 1/2" thick or smaller (2-3cm)
Just for clarity, 1 inch = 2.54cm.

So
1/2 inch is 1 - 1.5cm,
&
2 - 3 cm is an inch

Around about 1cm (~1/2inch) is what I was picturing would be an appropriate thickness, but I haven't tried making any rosin (yet) so I just wanted to double check :)


(We seriously need to kill off imperial measurements ;))
 

NorVape

Vape Rictim
Kind Sir, I'd like a puck half the size of an Imperial Dwarf's two... No no no, a teenage Imperial Dwarf. Yes, that would be roughly three quarters of an Axian Unicorns Hoof. Oh, you use the circumference of three year old female lion's eyeballs as an unit of measurment?

Metric system
F
T
W

I'm getting my tech down. Pressing out some oil before going to see Mad Max tonight.

What presstime do people have for hash? I'm getting to much clorophyl.
 

Been Vapin

Fringe Class
Kind Sir, I'd like a puck half the size of an Imperial Dwarf's two... No no no, a teenage Imperial Dwarf. Yes, that would be roughly three quarters of an Axian Unicorns Hoof. Oh, you use the circumference of three year old female lion's eyeballs as an unit of measurment?

Metric system
F
T
W

I'm getting my tech down. Pressing out some oil before going to see Mad Max tonight.

What presstime do people have for hash? I'm getting to much clorophyl.


Im pressing hashes at 150°F or 65.5°C for 6 to 10 seconds and getting amazing results. I forgot you are using import hash. Either way try 150°F at different times.
 
Been Vapin,
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NorVape

Vape Rictim
Lowest temp on my hair straightener is 150c :( I'm doing 3-6 second presses.

Need to find a low temp solution.

The oil is really nice in texture, shatter when cold, pull and snap when in room temp. But flavor is dulled, and there is to much clorophyl, which leads me to think heat is the sinner.
 

Been Vapin

Fringe Class
Lowest temp on my hair straightener is 150c :( I'm doing 3-6 second presses.

Need to find a low temp solution.

The oil is really nice in texture, shatter when cold, pull and snap when in room temp. But flavor is dulled, and there is to much clorophyl, which leads me to think heat is the sinner.


My first presses were at 325°F. Too hot.

Also I have been taking chunks of hash and submerging them for a second or two in water befpre pressing. The increased steam and sizzle seem to help with the extraction. It might just even change the viscosity/mailability of the rosin.
 
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