Vapman

SSVUN~YAH said:

I would contact Randy at PIU before going with the mass dump and waiting for a basic or mica. If your looking for exotics hit up Vapman.com (Station only here) or infinityvapman.com for amazing two tone, tattooed and other awesome VM products!

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infinityvm.com actually.

SSVUN~YAH said:

I would contact Randy at PIU before going with the mass dump and waiting for a basic or mica. If your looking for exotics hit up Vapman.com (Station only here) or infinityvapman.com for amazing two tone, tattooed and other awesome VM products!

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http://infinityvm.com/

EDIT: Sorry (repeat), just checked @Enchantre above :-)

M0J0 said:

If you hit it with a beeswax finish and buff it, it'll stay much cleaner much longer and look nicer too.

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Wax is a good call, IMO. Linseed oil (the original finish) is another good call I think. It hardens over time and protected wooden military rifles for as long as we used wood. Tough service there.

If you're going to use wax, my advice is forget half way measures with Beeswax or other soft stuff, go right to the top. Carnauba. Made from palms, tough as nails, food safe (it's used to coat candy.....). Johnson's paste wax like you'd use on the kitchen floor (and walk on) is my favorite.

This (Carnauba) is a standard 'Museum trick', ever wonder what keeps all that ancient armor and weapons in top notch shape, even on display? Now you know, it's waxed. And well protected, like fine furniture is......only with tougher wax.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax

OF

Shit Snacks said:

Wow beautiful, and the station seems amazing, so obviously going to have to get one of those some day but I can be patient since its so brand new, guess I'm not that late to the party.

Looks like Randy only has classics, and no lighters? I would like a 14mm wood mp like he has there though... How necessary is the Vapman lighter? Would triihouse work or does vapman have settings and such for temp it seems?

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He has both kinds just contact him to check pricing and availability.

Enchantre said:

infinityvm.com actually.

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Snappo said:

http://infinityvm.com/

EDIT: Sorry (repeat), just checked @Enchantre above :-)

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My apologies @M0J0 good looking out @Snappo & @Enchantre

@Shit Snacks @SSVUN~YAH I checked with PIU before I ordered my basic (about 2 weeks ago) and they actually only sell classics.

Shit Snacks said:

How necessary is the Vapman lighter? Would triihouse work or does vapman have settings and such for temp it seems?

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I think any single torch lighter will work, i have used a few i have around the house with good results
although i do really like the Vapman lighter (even have a spare) the settings are just the torch/flame length so can work it out with any.

OF said:

Wax is a good call, IMO. Linseed oil (the original finish) is another good call I think. It hardens over time and protected wooden military rifles for as long as we used wood. Tough service there.

If you're going to use wax, my advice is forget half way measures with Beeswax or other soft stuff, go right to the top. Carnauba. Made from palms, tough as nails, food safe (it's used to coat candy.....). Johnson's paste wax like you'd use on the kitchen floor (and walk on) is my favorite.

This (Carnauba) is a standard 'Museum trick', ever wonder what keeps all that ancient armor and weapons in top notch shape, even on display? Now you know, it's waxed. And well protected, like fine furniture is......only with tougher wax.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax

OF

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Gotta pick your brain a little if you don't mind,
I think i might have some Johnson's paste wax (yellow tin) out in the shed, would this be ok to use if i can find it?

And for linseed oil would something like this be any good or am i looking at the wrong stuff?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Boiled-Linseed-Oil-500ml/p/600346

And while i have your attention any recommendations on carnauba wax, liquid or flakes? Or something else? The only stuff i have is for my car and i don't think that would work

I don't plan on using all these at once Just trying to get a little educated As food safe/human safe is not something i have had much to do with, just the nasty stuff

Thanks in advance

Edit: just looking for something a little longer lasting than my walnut oil and beeswax mix

UnshavenFish said:

Gotta pick your brain a little if you don't mind,
I think i might have some Johnson's paste wax (yellow tin) out in the shed, would this be ok to use if i can find it?

And for linseed oil would something like this be any good or am i looking at the wrong stuff?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Boiled-Linseed-Oil-500ml/p/600346

And while i have your attention any recommendations on carnauba wax, liquid or flakes? Or something else? The only stuff i have is for my car and i don't think that would work

I don't plan on using all these at once Just trying to get a little educated As food safe/human safe is not something i have had much to do with, just the nasty stuff

Thanks in advance

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Yep, that's what I use. The can has changed over the years, but this is the current one:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-...=1431287708&sr=8-1&keywords=johnson+paste+wax

It's basically nearly pure Carnauba (which is solid) dissolved in mineral spirits to make a paste. The mineral spirits evaporate ('dry off') leaving a coating of hardened wax. You can make your own paste (I've done it) using lots of different hydrocarbon solvents (like Acetone IIRC), but the stuff in a can is much easier. Thinner grades are used in many high end auto polishes for the same reason......it's going to last in adverse conditions. Auto wax work fine (at least some), but floor wax is the big dog in the game.

The wax itself is plenty safe, in fact used in foods. The solvents can be an issue until they're gone (if dangerous ones like Acetone are used). I wax my MFLBs, they're much easier to keep clean (water
'beads up') and I have no reservations about it wiping off on my lips. On the contrary 'lip grime' wipes off the box.....

Yes, that's the sort of boiled linseed oil VM uses. Sometimes dryers (often called 'Japan Dryers') are added to speed the drying, many of them toxic. Stay with the pure stuff, it dries slower but is otherwise ideal at many levels. VM wipes it on, perhaps a few coats? Fine furniture guys do lots of coats for a 'deep shine'. Military gun stock are soaked in the stuff in big vats so soak deep in (for a lifetime finish). You probably want to use it up once opened, it tends to dry out once the seal is broken (buy small quantities or plan to hit the garden furniture after the VM. You can often get a few ounces in small bottles in sporting goods stores and gun shops (pretty rare in the UK I understand).

BTW a linseed oil seal and couple coats of wax is a great 'quick and dirty' (but first class) finish for hardwood projects. Great for 'pretty grain' that needs no staining. IMO a top flight choice for MV.....sorta like the rest of it. Very solid engineering and material choices there.

You're welcome, enjoy your quest.

OF

Enchantre said:

Same offer, @ChippyMalone ... show up, you get to play.

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You know I'm tempted!

@UnshavenFish don't use car wax! Anything should be food safe, even if it is a known safe type of wax . Lately, I've been using my wife's Hemp oil and beeswax lip balm on my Vapman wooden mouthpieces. Beeswax/mineral oil mixture from another hobby of mine for wood treatment.

Although my heating station hasn't arrived, it's given me this weekend to test out this new Stratus torch lighter from Blazer.



It is very slim, and solidly constructed. There is a black dial on the bottom for manual flame adjustment, an especially nice feature, although I leave it on high or just a tad lower. It ignites by squeezing the entire body of the lighter. This is very nice, especially for somebody with limited hand strength or dexterity. I could probably use it while wearing mittens. However, this complicated mechanism appears to take up most of the volume of the device , leaving room for a very small fuel tank. So one should be vigilant about keeping it full prior to travelling outside the home.

All in all, it is my favorite small torch lighter, but it is not perfect. And it seems to receive a lot of poor reviews. However, I suspect some of them are due to user misconception/error such as not understanding the valve adjustment, clicking the igniter too quickly before the gas has begun to flow, and I suspect at least two 1-star DOA reviews are from people who didn't know that it doesn't come prefilled and you need to put butane inside it before it would work. But some reviews do sound like there is inconsistent build quality (or possibly counterfeits/clones) with this one, so I don't have a clue about long term ruggedness.

Blazer Stratus Butane Refillable Torch Lighter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VA4E5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_lw7tvb05J1P20

Put the VS (vapman station) through some paces today... kids came over (adult kids. With a mmj recommendation themselves), and we broke out our two Vapmans and the VS, and played with fresh herb, plus some shatter, some of the infused kief/black hash, and then some pressed hash.

Pressed hash worked well at 4 - 6.

Six is amazing for cleaning the VM! I just keep heating&hitting until no more vapor (this is for concentrates & screens).

We started at ONE on the dial, and noshed our way up on some amazing Lemon Skunk, some Underdog, and had a great time... four people, one or two vapmans, and the station kept up for the better part of an hour! we took a break then.

I'm already wanting ready cords all over the apartment.

Gentle Friends,

Here's a photo of a couple of simple mods I've done to my new VS:


First was to add a disk of self adhesive felt (like you'd put on the bottom of a table lamp). I cut it 2 1/8 inches in diameter so it just fits in the shallow well in the bottom. This keeps the wood off the deck (no scratches either way) and gives a nice 'feel' when you set it down.

Secondly, I cut a patch of red filter 'gel' and 'scotch taped' it over half the indicator. It's just a first pass, something better looking is in order, but it lets my color blind eyes 'see' the green part as different from the others. Only useful for maybe half us color blind guys (maybe 4 or 5%) but trust me if you're in that group and would like to know what's going on it's golden.

Small changes for sure, but it makes it more useful to me......and it 'makes it my own', which is kinda fun in its own right.

OF

So far, from reading about the station, I'm happy to hear that the full range of settings are actually useful.

So often in my experience with even everyday things, you might have a device with six settings that really only has two useful ones: too fucking low, too low, low, high, too high, and way too fucking high.

I can't wait to experiment with various forms of cannabis and different heat settings. Thanks @Enchantre for starting us out with an outline for doing that! Also for really punishing it in a heavy use group setting right out of the starting gate!

@OF thanks for showing the bottom. I add a particular adhrsive gummy silicone pad used for glass coffee tables on some of my glass and other things (felt gets too furry in this house of cats and dogs). So I'll have that ready.

Enchantre said:

Put the VS (vapman station) through some paces today... kids came over (adult kids. With a mmj recommendation themselves), and we broke out our two Vapmans and the VS, and played with fresh herb, plus some shatter, some of the infused kief/black hash, and then some pressed hash.

Pressed hash worked well at 4 - 6.

Six is amazing for cleaning the VM! I just keep heating&hitting until no more vapor (this is for concentrates & screens).

We started at ONE on the dial, and noshed our way up on some amazing Lemon Skunk, some Underdog, and had a great time... four people, one or two vapmans, and the station kept up for the better part of an hour! we took a break then.

I'm already wanting ready cords all over the apartment.

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Thanks so much for this post Enchantre, the Vapman and Station's performance with concentrates sounds great! I am expecting mine to arrive tomorrow or the day after and can't wait to put every kind of concentrate I have through it! lol

Which heat did you find best for shatter? Was 6 appropriate or did it have that too hot dabbing kind of taste?

Thanks in advance

@vapmanjoe Thank you for your feedback and the well done video!
You are actually our first client outside of our circle of friends trying out and using the station, therefore your name "vapmanjoe" is very appropriate!Reading your post was a special moment for me, it was a bit like letting go of your own child into the big wide world and I am not very good at this. All the more I was very delighted to see how you received and reported about the station.

steama said:

Wow! The Vapman Station 1 seems to have created the most elegant vape solution I have seen. It is absolutely stunning. Congratulations to all that are getting one.

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@steama I take your statement as a huge compliment, thank you very much, it means a lot to me! Nice to see you back on this thread.

@OF Thanks for telling us about the problem with the mica touching the docking part. Honestly, I have not seen this problem before but I know it is easily possible that the mica could touch the docking part a little bit. In order to have the largest possible contact surface, I made the docking part as wide as possible. At the same time, mounting the mica into the vapman is all done by hand and is not as exact as things done on a machine, therefore it is well possible that on some vapman(s) the hole in the center is smaller than on others, resulting the mica and the docking part touching each other.
In this case I suggest, as you already found out yourself, to simply push back the mica with a round tool or by shaving off the mica a tiny bit, just enough to have minimum clearance between the mica and the docking part. Good thing that mica is heat resistant, meaning a few flakes of mica falling into the station is no danger at all, not to the user, nor to vapman or the station itself. Once there is enough clearance between the mica and the docking part, you will no more see any flakes inside the station.
BTW, there are no new or old vapman(s), we never changed anything on the mica lining, therefore it is not a question of already having a vapman or getting it with the station. By far the most vapman(s) will not have this issue at all.


vapman

vapman said:

@OF Thanks for telling us about the problem with the mica touching the docking part. Honestly, I have not seen this problem before but I know it is easily possible that the mica could touch the docking part a little bit. In order to have the largest possible contact surface, I made the docking part as wide as possible.

In this case I suggest, as you already found out yourself, to simply push back the mica with a round tool or by shaving off the mica a tiny bit, just enough to have minimum clearance between the mica and the docking part.

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You're welcome, I was sure it was news to you (or you'd have addressed it). I don't agree with you that the heating post shape is an advantage in heat transfer. The outside few mm of OD is not involved in heat transfer in any useful way, it simply sticks out and worse still has a sharp edge to sang the end grain in the mica. Simply pushing it back doesn't change that, it snags again and does yet more damage. And as you know ragged edges alone are going to degrade over time so carving it away was out. Removing part of the corner on the post and smoothing the surface is my solution. No need for the sharp corner. IMO such a change does not impact contact nor heat flow, the post can be a bit smaller in OD without impact.

BTW, what is the lens material? Is it say safe for Acetone wipe? I'm thinking of using clear fingernail polish to attach a chip of filter to the display but want to be able to remove it. TIA.

It is a fun and useful thing IMO, and very well made. Highly recommended. I'd like to use the display past 'flashing or not' and didn't like it damaging my treasured VM's mica even a little bit.

Regards.

OF

TNT_error said:

I've been daydreaming about the station for weeks haha, even have a routine ready. Can the station be used angled? Such as using the vm in a water tool and using the station like s log vspe?
Also how long is the cord? Thanks

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@TNT_error Good question! The station is made for being used in an upright and vertical position. Only in this position vapman is sitting properly on the docking part, this is not the case when used in an angled position. The main issue about the station being used in an angle or even in a up side down position is the cooling of the unit itself, it could lead to over heating because the air around the hot part is not circulating in the same way as when standing in a upright position. Anyone using the station in some other ways than in an upright position is doing it on his own risk!

@OF You might remember in the video, I called the switch a "toggle switch" but when we gave the german version of the manual to a company for translation, they called it "rocker switch". Now I know, that it is a toggle switch as I called it in the first place. Thank you for the correction, we will change the designation back to toggle switch.I don`t know about the "off" and "on" position, we received the circuit board exactly how it is now and I think for the sake of continuity we leave it "wrong" as it is now.


@herbivore21 Your station was shipped at the same time but you live in an other country even further away, it will arrive soon, I hope.

@UnshavenFish Thanks for your great post, one more to put a frame around it to hang up on our walls!
I like the story of your 200 year old house.

@bounce5 I went through some posts and found one of yours I did not answer, sorry for this. Your question was about the warranty of the station: It is two years and after that we will of course help anybody having a problem with it.

@Enchantre Very glad you like the station!!

@OF The lens can be cleaned with acetone, just checked it out for you, it is acrylic glass.

vapman

vapman said:

@OFThank you for the correction, we will change the designation back to toggle switch.I don`t know about the "off" and "on" position, we received the circuit board exactly how it is now and I think for the sake of continuity we leave it "wrong" as it is now.

@OF The lens can be cleaned with acetone, just checked it out for you, it is acrylic glass.

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You're welcome, such 'proofreading errors' happen for sure. Even without language translations to add to the fun. How do you know when you've made the last correction? Not a big deal, but easily fixed once identified.

I think labeling, even the cryptic I and O we Yanks can never get straight, would remove all doubt about what the switch is and what it does in each position? It might also be a good place to put '20VDC, 2.5 Amps' as well? Some of us have accumulated quite a pile of such small supplies (often with 'the wrong name'), I often use such labeling to match things up. I suspect I'm not alone? Again, a fine point.

Thanks for the confirmation on the lens. I'll give it some more thought, but right now fingernail polish is sounding like the call in the next attempt. Then again I may fall back to 'all I really need to know is when it stops flashing....'.

OF

@OF You are absolutely right about labeling the plug and the switch, this we will do for sure.

OF said:

I don't agree with you that the heating post shape is an advantage in heat transfer. The outside few mm of OD is not involved in heat transfer in any useful way, it simply sticks out and worse still has a sharp edge to sang the end grain in the mica. Simply pushing it back doesn't change that, it snags again and does yet more damage. And as you know ragged edges alone are going to degrade over time so carving it away was out. Removing part of the corner on the post and smoothing the surface is my solution. No need for the sharp corner. IMO such a change does not impact contact nor heat flow, the post can be a bit smaller in OD without impact.

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I agree, the corners could be chamfered or even rounded and I think the idea of @Enchantre`s husband, to make the openings of the slots, Y-shaped or even the whole slot Y-shaped will definitely be considered with the next series.
On your disagreement I have to disagree, as well.The material sticking out from the contact surface is for the tubes to run on. That small band has the same angle as the tubes and keeps the contact surface safe from being dented by the tubes. Aluminum is quite soft at these temperatures, therefore you got to give these tubes some surface to run on, on a thin edge the specific pressure would be too high. I know you understand such physical laws. If you look closely you can also see a very thin ring between the contact surface and that outer angled band, this is the buffer zone between the dented band for the tubes and the smoth contact surface.


About the temperature setting on the vapman station in general, I keep it simple and like to say this:

"Don`t judge the temperature setting after one hit, stay on one setting for at least five heating cycles to find out if the grade of extraction is to your liking!"


vapman

They got a vapman on massdrop for 59.99....hmmmmmmm

I'm loving the VM, with flowers, on ONE. It takes a good three cycles, but then it's heaven.

Shatter is quite good at 3 ish... watch it closely! when it starts to vapor, just grab it off there.

Could not make wax work well. It's sorta wax, sorta "wet brown sugar"... I took that one back to the ENano for vapor dabbing. This is why I have more than one vape.

Pressed hash takes the most temp, so far.

Every setting works, @ChippyMalone ... and very well!

So, yesterday, our DIL-to-be was attempting at one point to return the VM to the station, and said, "so, when did this turn into a square?" We figured out that if it's too hard to line up the VM so it "drops" into the slots, then you are too medicated

vapman said:

On your disagreement I have to disagree, as well.The material sticking out from the contact surface is for the tubes to run on. That small band has the same angle as the tubes and keeps the contact surface safe from being dented by the tubes. Aluminum is quite soft at these temperatures, therefore you got to give these tubes some surface to run on, on a thin edge the specific pressure would be too high. I know you understand such physical laws. If you look closely you can also see a very thin ring between the contact surface and that outer angled band, this is the buffer zone between the dented band for the tubes and the smoth contact surface.

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Thanks, yes I noticed and understand such things. I'm not making myself clear obviously. Perhaps a photo will help:


As I hope you can see, I've preserved what I think is sufficient 'meat' behind the bearing surface. My major concerns are thermal (don't want to change that even a tiny bit) and of curse avoiding damage to the mica. Impacts will still happen to the same basic profile (the highest point on the rim) and I think that area is as well supported as before. The corner material I removed hopefully presents no such issues. If I'm wrong, I guess I'll be looking to buy a replacement (or repair this one) at some point.

I understand this is my decision, I sure don't expect it to share the blame but after finding the 'smooth it back down' fix did no good, I elected to try this. As far as production units that's clearly your call alone. I'm simply reporting what I found and did about it......and why.

Keep up the good work, there's good folks that want to give you their money......

Thanks again.

OF

Hey @OF, no problem with the modification you've done, it will be fine, for sure. No need for spare parts anyway.

i was just having some thoughts on the problem with color blindness and realized that there is no need to distinguish between green and red. When vapman is sitting on the station, the color can only be green or flashing orange. Taken away from the station, the colors are either red or orange. The only two colors needed to be distinguished are red and orange, which is not too hard as orange is brighter than red.
Just sharing my thoughts.

Take care,

Vapman

vapman said:

i was just having some thoughts on the problem with color blindness and realized that there is no need to distinguish between green and red. When vapman is sitting on the station, the color can only be green or flashing orange. Taken away from the station, the colors are either red or orange. The only two colors needed to be distinguished are red and orange, which is not too hard as orange is brighter than red.
Just sharing my thoughts.

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I agree, like I said above the only thing you absolutely need to know is 'flashing or not' near as I can tell, which is why I'm not rushing into it.

Remember, there is no real orange typically. Only red, blue and green. Adding the green to red to make orange doesn't do me any good (they both appear the same). Light levels aren't really all that useful in my experience unless you can A/B between the two. A red filter that completely covers the lens doesn't work (which is why I covered half). "Brighter" only works with a reference. Not a serious problem, IIRC the old Volkswagen had a speedometer and oil light? Not even a fuel gauge. VM itself seems just fine on very low tech (at least on the surface it's low tech...). For some vapes, like Puffit and the prior Herbal Aire, you're SOL if you can't tell red from green.

OF

Heating station showed up and looks amazing ... but may not be able to use it for a bit since it has a grounded plug and my vape area Doesn't. Some months it seems nothing is going to work just right for me as it comes right out of the box.

Enchantre said:

I'm loving the VM, with flowers, on ONE. It takes a good three cycles, but then it's heaven.

Shatter is quite good at 3 ish... watch it closely! when it starts to vapor, just grab it off there.

Could not make wax work well. It's sorta wax, sorta "wet brown sugar"... I took that one back to the ENano for vapor dabbing. This is why I have more than one vape.

Pressed hash takes the most temp, so far.

Every setting works, @ChippyMalone ... and very well!

So, yesterday, our DIL-to-be was attempting at one point to return the VM to the station, and said, "so, when did this turn into a square?" We figured out that if it's too hard to line up the VM so it "drops" into the slots, then you are too medicated

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This is quite curious about the wax (purely for curiosity's sake; I don't use waxes, only absolutes with no wax left in them). Did it seem like it needed more heat than the station could deliver? Also it sounds like you guys have found a good approach to knowing when you're medicated enough

I am really curious to see what my 3/4 melt bubble will require in terms of heat, I am guessing that 3 will suffice as well (typically shatter and this specific bubble require similar heats in my Mighty/Crafty - around 199c).

@vapman thanks for letting me know mate I am sure it'll come in soon enough and I am bogged down in a lot of work right now still anyway so it might be for the best that my delivery has taken a little while lol

I've spent some more time with the station now, and I like the Y-shaped slot idea... sometimes it's a bit difficult to get vapman seated properly, and I worry that those corners might wear on the air tubes. So I was wondering if it might be a good idea to try to file down the corners slightly to help it drop in a little easier...?

That's a pretty minor issue though; otherwise, I'm loving it! This morning I turned it on (set to ~3), loaded some cookies & cream bud, and started getting good vapor right away. The one-handed operation is so nice for taking leisurely hits while reading news, having a bite or whatever. As a device, it demands much less attention and involvement than my other vaporizers. Elegant is exactly right.