bluenavey00

Arizer Air Aficionado
Wait, does it just look like the picture below (the lights pictured are constant, not flashing)? Because if so, it's just the top LED signalling the lowest heat setting (blue - 180°C) and the bottom LED indicating that the selected temperature has been reached.

b1pDFyJ.jpg

The blue pictured above looks like the blue of the lowest heat setting (I think it is).

The blue I experienced was a solid colour, it didn't flash, but it was a much lighter blue, aqua like.
 

UnshavenFish

Well-Known Member
Got a response.

"Hello,Thank you for your email.

The double cyan LED at start up indicates that you did not wait long enough to try and set the temperature / you pressed the Up arrow button too soon after powering on the unit. When powering on the Air unit, press and hold the Up & Down Arrow buttons for approximately 2 seconds, watch for the top LED to flash cyan once quickly and then blue once, and then you can set the temperature. If the unit shows double cyan LEDs, simply turn it off and then turn it back on again.
If you have any further questions please feel free to ask!Best Regards,AmyArizer Tech"

This is from page 168, starting around page 164.

Don't know if it the same thing but sounds like it, if it this its nothing to worry about:tup:
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Hi all. Haven't posted in a while as I've been very happy with my Extreme Q modified with the short glass adapter and glass stem, and my Solo for outdoor pursuits... But the Solo was always too bulky, so I just got the Air.

I am very impressed. A nearly perfect portable vape! The easily replaceable battery is the way to go for ALL portable devices.

I only have 2 issues with the Air:
- The cap that covers the heater is rubbish. It comes off too easily and is a pain to re-attach. It looks lame when open. Cheap silicone caps that fit snugly and don't need attaching to the vape are badly needed! Just stick in your pocket and replace at the end of the session.
- No USB charging port. The charger is 5V @1000mA which is the same as USB! Is it possible to charge from a USB charger using some sort of adapter cable?

As for reclaiming: just carefully apply a blue lighter flame to the glass from the outside and inhale!

Putting a wet cotton ball inside the stem will almost certainly reduce the amount of vapor you actually inhale as some will be lost to condensation on the wet cotton. The same issue that you will have with putting any vape through any kind of water system. This is why a direct all glass pathway is the best IMO. If it's too hot just turn down the heat a notch or use a longer Solo stem.

Sometimes at the end of a cycle when I use the Air connected to the PA a blinking yellow light wont stop beeping until I disconnect. I mostly end up using it on battery mode. :huh:

This happened to me when I tried using the Air while charging. I think it just can't handle the heat buildup and the overheat protection kicks in. It's a shame but understandable with such a small device.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I only have 2 issues with the Air:
- The cap that covers the heater is rubbish. It comes off too easily and is a pain to re-attach. It looks lame when open. Cheap silicone caps that fit snugly and don't need attaching to the vape are badly needed! Just stick in your pocket and replace at the end of the session.
- No USB charging port. The charger is 5V @1000mA which is the same as USB! Is it possible to charge from a USB charger using some sort of adapter cable?

I'm glad you're enjoying your Air, it seems a very common (and IMO natural) thing. Great vape, based on an already proven solid design.

To your issues, if the cap bothers you either remove it and not worry (which I suspect most of us do judging by the posted photos?) or if you want something to remove, put in your pocket and eventually loose, just trim the tab part off the factory cover?

Yes, we've discussed USB charging a lot. It will charge at lower current levels, and in fact basically never gets above about .8 Amps. Several cables (mostly from EBay) have been reported. Some PS2 cables apparently work, the pin needs to be longer than normal, some cables can be used with the plastic trimmed back. If you look closely you'll see this is how Arizer does their car charger:
http://arizer.com/store/en/arizer-air-parts-accessories/102-air-car-charger.html

Here's a post of mine showing the pin length issue:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-114#post-737942

Here's one suggesting what I think is a nice cable at a reasonable price. Several other Members contributed to the discussions with other suggested cables:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-111#post-737212

As to your opinions on optimum reclaim technique and the value of moisture you'll have to excuse my not agreeing. Not that it's a big deal. Rather I suggest folks try it for themselves and decides what best 'fits their pistol'.

OF
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Thanks for the info, OF.

The cap on my Air is too loose and only stays on because of the stud that inserts into the little hole there. It comes off almost every time I use the Air and will get lost soon, I'm sure.

I'm a bit wary of carrying the Air in my pocket without a cap as I don't want stuff going into the little holes of the heater.

As for reclaim: If people want to mess around with ISO and evaporating and so on, whatever. Not worth the hassle IMO. A blue flame carefully applied to the glass works great and tastes great.

As for cooling with water: Vaporised hot oils WILL condense when they hit cold water, it isn't a matter of opinion. Using a bubbler with hot water will reduce the losses but there will be some losses to condensation, as the water will always be cooler than the vapor, and as the vapor hits various glass surfaces before arriving at its destination. This is why you eventually see oil buildup inside bubblers. That oil never made it to the user's lungs. It is a smoother experience, for sure, and the bubblers look nice- all I'm saying is that it isn't very efficient.

Also, there is the issue of putting water vapor in your lungs. I'm not sure that's good to do on a regular basis.
 
Haze Mister,
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WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
Also, there is the issue of putting water vapor in your lungs. I'm not sure that's good to do on a regular basis.


Water vapors... like steam?? Is water vapors really a concern? People use steam rooms and saunas all the time right?

Im not denying what you are saying... Just looking for clarification.

Personally i have always thought that filtering/conditioning vapors would be less efficient than NOT filtering/conditioning vapors... But i dont know the science behind it... I just know i seem to feel better effects quicker when i dont use a bubbler when vaping....

But i combust frequently as well... And like OF said before, paraphrased in my words, i could just be missing effects from the "nasty" stuff i have grown fond of LOL
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Re: efficency: The science is pretty simple, as I explained it. If you cool down a vaporized oily substance some of it will condense before getting to your lungs. For some people that's an acceptable trade-off between efficiency and a cough-free experience. Coughing your lungs out every time you want to medicate is not good.

As for inhaling steam, I haven't looked into it. It may be an issue if done several times a day, but I guess so long as the water isn't visibly producing steam it's probably nothing to worry about... worth researching for those who use a lot of hot water filtration.

When i first got my Ex Q I plugged it into a bubbler and used hot water, because I was coughing a lot without it... but later as I adjusted to vaping (and lowered the temp a little) I found the efficiency and taste of the direct all-glass pathway to be much preferable. I believe the best vapes are those that use this kind of pathway and a wide stem that doesn't constrict the vapour through small holes (which also causes condensation and probably makes the vapour harsher on your throat)
 
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Haze Mister,

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, OF.

The cap on my Air is too loose and only stays on because of the stud that inserts into the little hole there. It comes off almost every time I use the Air and will get lost soon, I'm sure.

I'm a bit wary of carrying the Air in my pocket without a cap as I don't want stuff going into the little holes of the heater.

As for reclaim: If people want to mess around with ISO and evaporating and so on, whatever. Not worth the hassle IMO. A blue flame carefully applied to the glass works great and tastes great.

Also, there is the issue of putting water vapor in your lungs. I'm not sure that's good to do on a regular basis.

You're welcome. If your cap is defective, or not acceptable, get one that you're happy with? A high temperature vinyl one comes to mind? I don't share your fear of debris, but if you do, by all means do something to lessen that.

I'm glad you see others might not agree with your recovery technique. Some use ISO, some make hot chocolate, others scrape. I agree with you, they should do as they wish.

I get what you're saying WRT WTs, but I notice a LOT of fans of them (and enjoy them personally sometimes), I'd sure hate to try to convince them they're not happy. Or they just don't understand.

On the topic of breathing in water vapor, let me assure you it's not only safe but necessary. That's what Relative Humidity is all about. Even 100% is fine, like in a heavy fog? If you'd ever lived in a truly dry environment, you'd know quite the opposite is true. Not moist enough leads to all sorts of problems, including cracks in your sinuses that allow in bacteria. That's why they put humidifiers (to add water vapor to the room) in with sick people......

By all means do look it up. Please let me know if you disagree after doing so? TIA

Regards to all,

OF
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
There was never a case of anyone telling anyone what to do... People should think for themselves and experiment. I just find the most direct techniques to be most satisfying and I don't like isopropyl alcohol in general.
Water tools will always be less efficient than direct draw, regardless of whether people want to understand it or not.

Re: steam you're probably right. Someone mentioned to me that it may lead to health issues but I never looked it up as I stopped using water for vaping .
 

OF

Well-Known Member
There was never a case of anyone telling anyone what to do...

Water tools will always be less efficient than direct draw, regardless of whether people want to understand it or not.

My mistake. I took your saying "As for reclaiming: just carefully apply a blue lighter flame to the glass from the outside and inhale!" to be an example of 'telling everyone what to do'. I hope you can see how that happened?

By you're definition of efficient (pounds of THC delivered out the MP), I agree. But I suggest they (and I) see it differently, efficiency is getting the THC into my bloodstream. A system deal. If the WT makes that better (less coughing for instance, or bigger hits, or ability to vape at higher temps to get to the CBD and other fractions they want/need, or just plain 'bigger clouds') I suggest by their (and my) definition a WT is more efficient. We're not stupid, really, if it was robbing us of benefits (if it was a poor trade off) we'd be smart enough to figure that out I think. Life is a string of compromises?

The fact that most guys tend to bump up the heat to raise the production and squeeze more from the ABV may well offset the losses to water absorption? Wouldn't that be more efficient by your definition as well?

Put another way, WTs are popular I think for a reasons that customers value and appreciate. Even if you or I don't, although in this case I do. They pay (sometimes serious bucks) for them when they could be spending that money on false drugs........ I think it's wrong to discourage other Members from considering this very popular technique. Informed choices and all that.

Well, due to the general wear and tear and not-quite-proper treatment of my Solo, which has worked a charm for my first vape but is now beginning to die, I have just placed an order for an Air, with 2 extra batteries and one of these (http://www.vapefiend.co.uk/arizer-air/solo-bubbler-mouthpiece.html) bubbler-mouthpieces. Arriving on Wednesday. I am SO EXCITED.

As well you should be. I smell good times coming. You do plan to sort the Solo out, right???

OF
 

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
I sure as hell try and squeeze every bit i can out of my herbs when i vape because i dont use the ABV.. AVB?ABV?... Anyways it gets tossed it the trash once i get what i can from it.

I have heated stems with a lighter to get some of the tasty resin, i have used ISO, i have scraped... I found all of these methods work pretty well, some just take more time.... But the ones that take more time also gives a product you can use in something other than the stem.

With the Arizer EQ, the elbow adapter gets slap full of that resin stuff and when in a hurry id just heat the stem with a lighter.. I did this 99% of the time for that piece. With the Air stems, i mostly scrap. With the bags 99% ISO always gave me great results and a good tasting finished product.

As far as lighters go... EVERYONE should own a IM Corona Old Boy. Get this. Now.... Im not telling anyone what to do, im simply instructing everyone to do it in a direct manner. :rofl:

But in all seriousness... As far as durable soft flame lighters go, i have yet to hold an equal.

OK... Id like to clear this up for myself.. Is it ABV as in "already been vaped", or AVB, "already vaped bud" or either and both?

And what are we officially calling the resin stuff? Resin, honey, goop... I have heard it called quite a bit LOL
 

UnshavenFish

Well-Known Member
Seems like vapefiend have made a small price drop on the micro bubbler:clap: Not sure how that factors in for those not in the Uk but lower prices are always nice.

So far I'm still enjoying mine, and an update on usage, loading and emptying is just the same as any normal stem:tup: i dont even think about the fact there is water in there anymore, really have to put some effort in to get any out.

On a bubbler note I figure anything lost in there i will get back with ISO later, so a non issue for me, IMO the amount of anything in the water is negligible.

I understand the science behind it, but at the same time i always got more effect from smoking a bong than the same amount in a pipe :hmm: now how much of this is maybe placebo i don't know, but the way my body works has baffled medical science for years so this could just be another case:shrug:

As humans we vary a lot in many ways including how our body/mind reacts to things, what is right/works for one wont be the case for another, this is one reason FC works as well:clap: as with so many variables to vaping everyone should find a way that works for them with all the info available here:rockon:

Although I'm lucky enough that efficiency (making it last/getting the most out of it) isn't something that i have to worry about, so i just go with what i find works for me and that i enjoy, after all thats what we are all trying to achieve anyways:tup:
 

thegoo

Well-Known Member
Hello FC'ers
I recently acquired an Air to test out for my LHS. I seem to be combusting at the end of every session I have with it. Is it possible I am pushing the load to far into the device? I think the bottom layer of meds are making direct contact with the bottom of the heating chamber, which at the higher temperatures leads to combustion. I have tried backing it off a little and have found vapor production to suffer drastically.
Any ideas? I have never used a solo before so I am not sure how to best use Arizer products. Thanks in advance
-Goo
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Hello FC'ers
I recently acquired an Air to test out for my LHS. I seem to be combusting at the end of every session I have with it. Is it possible I am pushing the load to far into the device? I think the bottom layer of meds are making direct contact with the bottom of the heating chamber, which at the higher temperatures leads to combustion. I have tried backing it off a little and have found vapor production to suffer drastically.
Any ideas? I have never used a solo before so I am not sure how to best use Arizer products. Thanks in advance
-Goo
Your getting a cherry and actual smoke?
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
It's natural for the herb to get darker on the end closest to the heat. You can give herb herb a stir.

If it's combusting the unit is faulty. Could you have your unit too hot? Even if it was on the hottest heat level combusting wouldn't be possible. It would need to be like 900+ degrees to combust.

EDIT
Try using a lower heat level.
 
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thegoo

Well-Known Member
Your getting a cherry and actual smoke?
It natural for the herb to get darker on the end closest to the heat. You can give herb herb a stir.

If it's combusting the unit is faulty. Could you have your unit too hot? Even if it was on the hottest heat level combusting wouldn't be possible.

I am not sure that it fully combusted but i went from wispy yet tasty vapor on the blue setting to tons of thick and harsh tasting smoke/vapor on red. When I removed the stem the bottom layer was black like it had been burned and my air and stem now smell like smoke.
I am going to give it another go, and try pulling the stem up a tiny bit from the bottom of the chamber to see if that makes a difference. I ONLY get this reaction when I have been vaping the load for 10 minutes or more and bump it to the red setting.
Thanks for the input everyone
- Goo
 
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CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
The red heat setting is too hot for me usually unless I have the Vortex stem and even then that would be just the last of my session on the highest heat. I would start lower and when it feels harsh turn the temp down. Some folks have a higher tolerance for harshness but I'm not one of them.

No need to go to the highest heat unless you are using wax sandwiched in the middle of your herb or you are using a water tool.

Just because there is high heat you don't need to use it. You want to enjoy the flavor. I use high heat for pain but use a water tool when I do.
 

Ashish

Active Member
Hello FC'ers
I recently acquired an Air to test out for my LHS. I seem to be combusting at the end of every session I have with it. Is it possible I am pushing the load to far into the device? I think the bottom layer of meds are making direct contact with the bottom of the heating chamber, which at the higher temperatures leads to combustion. I have tried backing it off a little and have found vapor production to suffer drastically.
Any ideas? I have never used a solo before so I am not sure how to best use Arizer products. Thanks in advance
-Goo

Are you absolutely sure that combustion is occurring, or are you making that assumption due solely to the black, charred appearance of your ABV after finishing a session? The reason I ask this is because even at the highest temperature setting on the Air (red - 210°C / 410°F), you should be a long way off actually combusting the flower.

What you may well be experiencing is simply a side-effect of the heater setup within the unit itself. The Air relies on both conduction (direct heat applied to the flower) and convection (hot air passing over the flower), so it's natural for the bottom layer of flower (which is often in direct contact with the stainless steel heater cover) to appear slightly blackened or charred, especially if you don't stir it occasionally during a session. If, on the other hand, you're able to observe the load actually red and smouldering mid-session then you may indeed have a faulty unit.

For further clarification, perhaps you could post a close-up photo of your ABV the next time you finish a session and notice this possible-combustion phenomenon.
 

MaxVapor

The Professor
Not to:horse:...

But this has become my go to evening medicine delivery system... It's a D020-W which has a different mouthpiece shape which I prefer. As to why I use it, I think @OF put it best when he spoke of being able to vape at higher temps without suffering from throat pain which I do otherwise (yellow and red are a no-go without bubbler). For me the WT allows me to wring the most out of my product which otherwise goes to waste because pain is not the goal of vaping.

pbqUkZ1l.jpg
 

VANVAS

Well-Known Member
I had and i have sometimes that black bottom in my herbs , i think this is occurs cause the air have a very good seal with the 4 o rings and i think the amount of herbs that you can put in the 60mm and 70mm stems of the air is less than our normal solo stems that we all have . So, the herb with the hot and the air passing the herb can fall to the heater.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I seem to be combusting at the end of every session I have with it. Is it possible I am pushing the load to far into the device? I think the bottom layer of meds are making direct contact with the bottom of the heating chamber, which at the higher temperatures leads to combustion.

Howdy. Testing vapes is tough work if you can get it for sure.

First, rest assured you're not combusting or you wouldn't be questioning it. Even if your unit is defective, which it sure doesn't sound like it is. Combustion is a 'run away' thing. Cross the line and it gets really different (and bad) real fast. No need to guess, you'll know it. It would taste and smell like an ashtray......sorta like your old Bong does?

If you were combusting you'd be telling us (and looking for a way to avoid it).

You want to push the stem all the way in, sometimes backing it up or tipping it a bit if the stem seals too well against the bottom of the cup to draw well. The cup is at 'the magic temperature' (the one you selected) and is not really any hotter than the load gets. Drop a bit of herb directly on it (no stem) and watch. No fires.

FWIW I suggest you stick to the first 2 or 3 steps without water. Few of us venture 'up there' without a WT to blunt the harsher vapor.

It's natural for the herb to get darker on the end closest to the heat. You can give herb herb a stir.

Even if it was on the hottest heat level combusting wouldn't be possible. It would need to be like 900+ degrees to combust.

Once again, the Lady is wise. Pay attention.

She misstated the 'danger temperature' a bit (she does stuff like that to see if I'm awake.....), danger happens about 450F, but safely above what a correctly working Air (or Solo) allows......."of course" if you think about it. If you can innocently combust, everybody would be doing it and that ain't good.

You're just going past your personal 'comfort setting'. As the Lady says, 'back off a bit'......and enjoy.

For me the WT allows me to wring the most out of my product which otherwise goes to waste because pain is not the goal of vaping.

Well put, and for sure you're not alone. A WT is a Water Tool. A tool. Man is the chief tool user in the Animal Kingdom (there are some very few minor examples of other species), using tools for better results is what got us down out the the trees (and into the caves....). One of the oldest skills we have, use it with pride......it's your heritage.

Your point at the end is also very valid, it 'extends the range' of useful vaping levels for sure.

BTW while I think your bubbler is nice and all, I really love the background. It has a 'Disco feel' about it. Not doubt about it, effectively using such a tool to your advantage can be a very smart call indeed......but having something fun to look at in the process is a bonus. Thanks for the photo.

Regards to all.

OF
 

GetLeft

Well-Known Member
I have just placed an order for an Air, with 2 extra batteries and one of these (http://www.vapefiend.co.uk/arizer-air/solo-bubbler-mouthpiece.html) bubbler-mouthpieces. Arriving on Wednesday. I am SO EXCITED.

I went with three bats, too. All charged currently, which is a nice feeling. Anyone know how long the AA bats hold their charge while in storage? Don't want to be overconfident and walk out the door only to find later that my energy supply isn't there.

I been working my Air around 10 days or so and have enjoyed many many wonderful moments in experimentation since then. Many many wonderful moments. Many wonderful moments.

I've still got lots of learning to do. Not to mention a WT to long for, though discretion is the obstacle to me thinking too seriously about one of them. Perhaps a small bubbler is not too far off in my future. Though I don't really need one. I've gone to yellow briefly on an occasion or two, but won't be returning any time soon. Green will be my max. I pretty much determined that yesterday, when I did just under a half bowl in one session, mostly on white and finishing on green. My brass screen (I'll see about getting some of the ss version) has stayed seated nicely after its initial insertion into the bowl, which was a little tedious, so I think I'll be sticking with it. Even with the screen and a half load, my grind was safely above the heater and cooked through thoroughly and evenly. As did I.

My biggest questions regarding vaping prior to my initiation were a) whether I'd be able to do very brief and discreet hits (which was sine qua non) and b) whether I'd be able to be as miserly in the amount I consumed as I was before.

With regard to 'a,' I can't medicate now as quickly; vaping is not combusting. But at the same time, I can do it ever so more discretely (my 'when' and 'where' options have multiplied exponentially), especially with regard to odor. So whereas I may have been able to combust a single hit more quickly than vaping a few hits, I'd have to stay clear of people for a minimum of 15 minutes after combusting if I wanted any chance of hiding the odor. My Air has been: take the five minutes needed to get right, then go right about your business. No hiding in the shadows until the stench has dissipated.

With regard to 'b,' I was worried initially. I was using material quickly. But I've found out that that was because I was so curious (whence the 'many many wonderful moments'). I think I'm settled down now and will stick to a predictable pattern which will not result in an increase in the amount of material I use. Whether or not it results in a decrease in usage of material, I can't be sure...
 
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