Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

hal

Member
as a gearhead I'm realy into w9's stuff,but here's the surprising thing to me,I think I might be the only one on forum that hates the replacement of the v3 with the v4. The v4 works all the time, but the button is so easy to activate unknowingly . There was nothing wrong with the v3 just beef up the center pin. Having said all this crap, it just makes me love my 8 even more. An analog guy
 

dilvish

in hypno-vision
when you all iso soak your herc ti coils, what does the coil look like after? mine still had some light brownish leftovers in it after about 48 hours of soaking in 99.9. using it, it tasted fine but didn't take nearly as much buffer as the first time. now i'm soaking my other one, and even now (36 hours), it still looks pretty seriously gunked up. is that normal? how do you guys do it, and what are your results?
 
dilvish,

420time

Well-Known Member
when you all iso soak your herc ti coils, what does the coil look like after? mine still had some light brownish leftovers in it after about 48 hours of soaking in 99.9. using it, it tasted fine but didn't take nearly as much buffer as the first time. now i'm soaking my other one, and even now (36 hours), it still looks pretty seriously gunked up. is that normal? how do you guys do it, and what are your results?

if isoing it isnt clean enough why not just boil it clean?
 
420time,

eckstrakt

Member
tbh, it's the various parts and various iterations of the tops and stuff that has me a bit nervous to make the leap. I had ruled it out before, and am generally pretty happy with my Omni Lite and globe/KISS TI carts. But the Alpha C has me excited and I would really like a step up from my current platform to run it. That's why it popped in my head that maybe something like the Joyetech ego one batt might be a good middle of the road upgrade, but it was just an idea, seems like the general feeling here is a no on that.

Hmmm, I guess I'll do some reading about the Persei and the 8 tho. I know I'm tech savvy enough to understand them eventually, but it's the learning curve that's making me hesitate.

I appreciate all the input yall.

do not hesitate any longer.

i was in your spot about a month ago. I decided to go all in and order. after a bit of experimenting and asking a few questions here and to the guys at w9, i could not be happier and would promote the persei and herc to anyone who is undecided.

that said, i am ordering another persei, herc and alpha c
 

jason5117

Member
hi, i bought the rebuild kit for kiss cart. I tried to connect the non resistance wire to ti wire but messed up 4 connector trying to connect them and I need to buy more connectors. can somebody tell me where i can buy connectors? also, I need instructions how to rebuild my kiss????
 
jason5117,

ED421

Well-Known Member

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
so if you place two coils into the sr74x it should be able to store more concentrate or will it just be more of a heavy hitter.
Adding more coil increases the amount of wicking surface area so that more oil can be held. It does not increase vapor production, actually it reduces vapor production. The SR74x with one coil generates great vapor production, its as enjoyable for me as the SR-71 with two coils, but easier to use, easier to manage the buffer on.

so i recieved my sr74x early today. ohh myy the istick30w and the sr74x is such a treat. does placing two coils inside keep the oil in place without moving upwards the mouthpiece?
1 coil and have the oil not being pulled up towards the mouthpiece? after 5-10 pulls i get a small bit of oil on the top metal cap part.
Adding more coil will actually move the pooled oil closer to the mouthpiece resulting in more likelihood to inhale oil. Some coating on the upper screen is unavoidable if you choose to use it; you are drawing vapor through that screen and some will condense on it.
If you are getting a lot, to minimize splatter first try ensuring your load is well melted in before giving it a full 'pull'. Second, reduce the strength of your draw. Third try loading a little bit less.

Another thing to consider is the power that you are applying to the Hercules. If you are getting a lot of reclaim it's probable that you are not supplying enough power to the Herc and the rod is not getting as hot as it should; so you are not getting a full vaporization. This can be a consequence of not using the correct power supply for the Hercules; it sounds similar to what some people can experience trying to use the Hercules with generic IMR cells that don't have the gusto to make the ceramic rod really happy :) The rod is doing the best it can with what you're feeding it but it might want more electrons to shift into top gear and actually deliver the Herculean clouds that it wants to put in your lungs :cool:

when you all iso soak your herc ti coils, what does the coil look like after? mine still had some light brownish leftovers in it after about 48 hours of soaking in 99.9. using it, it tasted fine but didn't take nearly as much buffer as the first time. now i'm soaking my other one, and even now (36 hours), it still looks pretty seriously gunked up. is that normal? how do you guys do it, and what are your results?
I only bother iso soaking my Herc ti coil for an hour with my initial soak then I pull them out and hang them off the end of my Ti dabber. I turn down my butane torch nearly as low as it goes and I torch the coil until all residue is gone. I don't do this particularly delicately, but I'm working with <1" flame and once its glowing orange I move to another part of the coil. Make sure to hit the "front" and "back" of the coil to get everything out! After your done torching let it cool. You don't need to boil it in water... I've never melted a coil and I still have one of the original coils that came with my SR-74 that I bought over a year ago. It's smooshed to shit and has been torched at least five times, it's had a really large amount of oil run through it... Still works great!

Thank you!! Now I need instructions on rebuilding my kiss cart

DieHard's KISS Cart Rebuild Photo Tutorial

Make sure you properly squish the crap out out of the top portion of the crimp not just the center. If you just pinch the center, the wires are going to pull right out. The top part of the crimp is thick, and if you pinch that with your crimper, it will deform and hold the Ti wire to the non-resistance wire properly.
 
Last edited:

420time

Well-Known Member
i got it working correctly now, before i was running it around 6.8v so i guess thats how i got reclaim already. at 7.2-7.4 works great, at higher voltage it is unbearable. 7.5v+ is only good when the vapor production is low, instead of loading more just turn it up a bit. also what is the normal amount of time you guys hold the button down before you take a puff.
 
420time,
i got it working correctly now, before i was running it around 6.8v so i guess thats how i got reclaim already. at 7.2-7.4 works great, at higher voltage it is unbearable. 7.5v+ is only good when the vapor production is low, instead of loading more just turn it up a bit. also what is the normal amount of time you guys hold the button down before you take a puff.
The suggested hit time for a sr-71 that I found archived in the earlier part of this thread is 15sec; 8-12sec for heating, and about 5sec cool down. The proper method for sr-74 seems to elude me, as the heating time is closer to 20sec, but seems to need some feathering beyond the time it achieves vapor production. If I let off the button once it's hot enough, like I would for the SR-71, I end up with wispy hits. Hopefully someone has a more thorough process for hitting a 74, and will help us both out on that end ;)

Adding more coil increases the amount of wicking surface area so that more oil can be held. It does not increase vapor production, actually it reduces vapor production. The SR74x with one coil generates great vapor production, its as enjoyable for me as the SR-71 with two coils, but easier to use, easier to manage the buffer on.

Adding more coil will actually move the pooled oil closer to the mouthpiece resulting in more likelihood to inhale oil. Some coating on the upper screen is unavoidable if you choose to use it; you are drawing vapor through that screen and some will condense on it.
If you are getting a lot, to minimize splatter first try ensuring your load is well melted in before giving it a full 'pull'. Second, reduce the strength of your draw. Third try loading a little bit less.

Another thing to consider is the power that you are applying to the Hercules. If you are getting a lot of reclaim it's probable that you are not supplying enough power to the Herc and the rod is not getting as hot as it should; so you are not getting a full vaporization. This can be a consequence of not using the correct power supply for the Hercules; it sounds similar to what some people can experience trying to use the Hercules with generic IMR cells that don't have the gusto to make the ceramic rod really happy :) The rod is doing the best it can with what you're feeding it but it might want more electrons to shift into top gear and actually deliver the Herculean clouds that it wants to put in your lungs :cool:

I only bother iso soaking my Herc ti coil for an hour with my initial soak then I pull them out and hang them off the end of my Ti dabber. I turn down my butane torch nearly as low as it goes and I torch the coil until all residue is gone. I don't do this particularly delicately, but I'm working with <1" flame and once its glowing orange I move to another part of the coil. Make sure to hit the "front" and "back" of the coil to get everything out! After your done torching let it cool. You don't need to boil it in water... I've never melted a coil and I still have one of the original coils that came with my SR-74 that I bought over a year ago. It's smooshed to shit and has been torched at least five times, it's had a really large amount of oil run through it... Still works great!



DieHard's KISS Cart Rebuild Photo Tutorial

Make sure you properly squish the crap out out of the top portion of the crimp not just the center. If you just pinch the center, the wires are going to pull right out. The top part of the crimp is thick, and if you pinch that with your crimper, it will deform and hold the Ti wire to the non-resistance wire properly.
Thanks, I was wondering how to do those non resistance wires w/o screwing it all up. Do I need a crimper, or can I just flatten/crush the whole thing on there w/ pliers and get ok results? I find my crimper likes to eat the delicate things that it was supposedly designed for.
 
ragnorokk,

elmoe420

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I was wondering how to do those non resistance wires w/o screwing it all up. Do I need a crimper, or can I just flatten/crush the whole thing on there w/ pliers and get ok results? I find my crimper likes to eat the delicate things that it was supposedly designed for.

I just flattened the whole thing with a pair of needle nose pliers and it seemed to work just fine.
 
I just flattened the whole thing with a pair of needle nose pliers and it seemed to work just fine.
Dope. Hate buying new pliers, since I inevitably destroy them first use. These old bike mechanic pliers, however, are bomb-proof... they just aren't designed for artisan crafting, they're designed to crushinate.
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
What difference does the airflow washer setting make with the Herc?
Have you ever taken a dab of oil off a nail with a carb cap? When done properly, you apply oil just below the vaporization point of the nail and it won't quite vaporize. Then you apply the cap and all of a sudden it works. Some thoughts from taskrok on what carb capping accomplishes.

http://www.highlyeducatedti.com/blog/?p=364

The carb cap creates a chamber with only a small hole for a restricted air inlet. This restriction creates a low pressure environment inside the upper chamber. The low pressure area lowers the vaporization point of the oil leading to increased vapor production.

The adjustable airflow washer lets you restrict airflow through the inlet holes into the vaporization chamber of the Hercules in the same way that a carb cap creates restriction on the oil sitting on a hot nail. Restricting the airflow into the Hercules' vaporization chamber also lowers the pressure inside and increases vapor output.

Dope. Hate buying new pliers, since I inevitably destroy them first use. These old bike mechanic pliers, however, are bomb-proof... they just aren't designed for artisan crafting, they're designed to crushinate.
You shoudn't need to apply much force at all. The crimps included with our rebuild kits are made of soft metal and should deform to pinch the wire pretty easily. By over crimping you will flatten that soft metal like a pancake!

The right tools for the job always make a difference. Flush cut cutters instead of generic angle cutters/dikes to trim the wires, and nice crimpers would be sweet. My best generic crimpers are Klein rated up to 4ga wire and are no good for tiny crimps either. These are a little better but are intended for terminal connectors & are pretty expensive. http://www.adafruit.com/products/35...4ijJn1CjfaFIcIPHxoMOpnvljem4ToU7x1hoCXbDw_wcB

Jewelry/bead crimpers may be worth trying: http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Crimpin...&qid=1429306499&sr=1-4&keywords=micro+crimper
 
Last edited:

lucky778

Well-Known Member
I have an HVD omnicron that only blinks purple/pink when I press the button. What's the problem and how do I fix it?
 
lucky778,

DaNi_DuB

Vapor Enthusiast
I have an HVD omnicron that only blinks purple/pink when I press the button. What's the problem and how do I fix it?

The problem here is you've posted in the wrong thread. You can fix it by posting this question in the omicron thread & waiting for an answer.
 
DaNi_DuB,
Top Bottom