Discontinued Sublimator XLR

King said:

Not wanting to go too DIY on this I ordered this cord:
Hosa XFF-101.5 1.5-Feet XLR3F RA to XLR3M Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001L9AVXU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hrAevb066WZRQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001L9AVXU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hrAevb066WZRQ

I kept it short (1.5 ft) to stave off any voltage drop paranoia (to each his own). Right angle connector is a gamble, we'll see if it's an improvement.

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Not a good idea! Not only will you still have to cut pin #3 off of the male XLR, but the wires in this mic cable are AWG 22, which are much smaller wires than the AWG 18 wire used in the Sublimator cable. Even a 1.5' length of wire that is too small could cause a voltage drop. I tested the voltage of my 5' extension, and the voltage at the control box XLR is the same as the voltage at the extension XLR.....hence, no voltage drop. Another concern is that pin #2 on a mic cable is ground. The outside of the XLR will be connected to one of the current carrying wires. Wiring it yourself you don't use any shielded cable, and nothing gets grounded to the XLR case.

HexX said:

Not a good idea! Not only will you still have to cut pin #3 off of the male XLR, but the wires in this mic cable are AWG 22, which are much smaller wires than the AWG 18 wire used in the Sublimator cable. Even a 1.5' length of wire that is too small could cause a voltage drop. I tested the voltage of my 5' extension, and the voltage at the control box XLR is the same as the voltage at the extension XLR.....hence, no voltage drop. Another concern is that pin #2 on a mic cable is ground. The outside of the XLR will be connected to one of the current carrying wires. Wiring it yourself you don't use any shielded cable, and nothing gets grounded to the XLR case.

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Thanks for the heads up, I'm grateful you chimed in.

Thanks for the info @HexX

@King, @HexX just gave you all the info I was going to half assedly try to tell you.

I spoke to a friend who is an electrician to ensure my cable was appropriate (I would need to double check, but I believe mine is 0.75mm Flex cable - which is roughly equivalent to AWG18)

Any 3 pin XLR cable is gonna need to have that 3rd pin removed from the male end, and AFAIK most commercial XLR cables don't have connectors that are readily modifiable...

Not often i am reduced to a gibbering wreck,well actually two of us.Only managed five or six rounds but it was flowers and extracts. I did not even realise i forgot to put water in the bong thats how smooth it is..

Just busted out my sub for the first time in a week or 2.

My 5M extension cable is still performing perfectly
The controller box ALWAYS used to end up tugging on my rig, because that cord is so damn short...
Now I just have a consistently hanging cord with lots of slack - it may still pull my rig slightly toward the direction its hanging, but it's now only ever the weight of the cord I need to worry about, not a violent tug or jerk if the controller box gets bumped or I move my rig too much.

Here's a few milk shots
FC-1000 + sublimator





FC-1000 - dab of sublimate oil


Those sub shots were just flower - milked up that nice big FC-1000 just as well as a fat dab of sublimate

Aaand RIP sub buddy

New puppy decided crash tackling my FC-1000 would be a good idea

At least the only casualty was the sub buddy.

Anyways, as someone with pretty minor technical experience, how hard would it be to make some kind of replacement monkey box?

I know there's that one with digital temp (how would it measure temp though? I didn't think the sub had any kind of measurement tool?), so it's gotta be possible...

Would it basically just be a matter of measuring the output of the monkey controller and making another box that would give the same outputs?

Honestly, the only things more I want out of the controller are to fix that goddamned timer (either user adjustable, or 4 hours - 1 is just too short) and a more accurate selection dial - it's nigh on impossible to know if you've selected x.5 on the dial without going up to x+1 and dropping down 1 step - that annoys me.

Id love to tinker with something like that, but don't even know where I'd start...

Frederick McGuire said:

Aaand RIP sub buddy

New puppy decided crash tackling my FC-1000 would be a good idea

At least the only casualty was the sub buddy.

Anyways, as someone with pretty minor technical experience, how hard would it be to make some kind of replacement monkey box?

I know there's that one with digital temp (how would it measure temp though? I didn't think the sub had any kind of measurement tool?), so it's gotta be possible...

Would it basically just be a matter of measuring the output of the monkey controller and making another box that would give the same outputs?

Honestly, the only things more I want out of the controller are to fix that goddamned timer (either user adjustable, or 4 hours - 1 is just too short) and a more accurate selection dial - it's nigh on impossible to know if you've selected x.5 on the dial without going up to x+1 and dropping down 1 step - that annoys me.

Id love to tinker with something like that, but don't even know where I'd start...

Click to expand...

I just got a knockoff Sub Buddy made from Oregon Glass Blower. I had him add a drop down and one of his nice cleaning stoppers to it and used my own collection jar. I'll post a photo of it too when I finally clean up my controller pics tonight.

Anyone know if this sublimator through VapeFiend is the XLR 2.0 or not? It's the Adapt-a-dabmaster kit, so I would think that these are XLR 2.0 right? The "upgrade kit" direct from manufacture looks like it has the Apollo head, is that what makes the 2.0? What exactly is the difference between 1.0 and 2.0?

Also, I think it will be coming with an UK plug, I'm in the US, so which one of these would work?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TZBW74
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NND600


Actually, I just saw this as well,
http://www.planetvape.ca/sublimator-launch-controller-power-supply.html
Is that how your guys power supplies look like? If that's the case... I'm pretty sure I could just use an old computer/monitor power cable instead of buying those UK adapters.

blazedd said:

Anyone know if this sublimator through VapeFiend is the XLR 2.0 or not? It's the Adapt-a-dabmaster kit, so I would think that these are XLR 2.0 right? The "upgrade kit" direct from manufacture looks like it has the Apollo head, is that what makes the 2.0? What exactly is the difference between 1.0 and 2.0?

Also, I think it will be coming with an UK plug, I'm in the US, so which one of these would work?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TZBW74
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NND600


Actually, I just saw this as well,
http://www.planetvape.ca/sublimator-launch-controller-power-supply.html
Is that how your guys power supplies look like? If that's the case... I'm pretty sure I could just use an old computer/monitor power cable instead of buying those UK adapters.

Click to expand...

Hey blazedd

Yep - those are indeed 2.0 Subs for sale at that there Vapefiend my good fellow.

- The obvious difference is that 1st gen Subs do not have an xlr connection or the monkey controller box.

And yes, as the Sub comes with a U.K or U.S suitable voltage switching PSU you only need a standard kettle lead to connect it to a power outlet - so the one from your old PC or monitor would do just fine.


Now quit stalling.

Ah.. derp hahah thank you for clearing that up. I actually ordered last night :]

Well after years of 'playing' with vape's Ive finally done it and converted to 100% vaping! Fucked the combustion.
I was at about 98% smoke 2% vape before i got my sub! Doing about 2-3 grams a day. The sub was the vape that made it all so easy! Perfect transition. I love the way it works, load - rip - dump feels just like old times! Just need to dump that damn timer!

Loving the ability to collect a dab from the bottom of the atomiser and stick it straight in the apollo heater, best vape bonus ever!

Im itching for a non timed monkey box too Fred, Could we use a generic dimmer switch with a bit of modding?

Teedub said:

Well after years of 'playing' with vape's Ive finally done it and converted to 100% vaping! Fucked the combustion.
I was at about 98% smoke 2% vape before i got my sub! The sub was the vape that made it all so easy! Perfect transition. I love the way it works, load - rip - dump feels just like old times! Just need to dump that damn timer!

Loving the ability to collect a dab from the bottom of the atomiser and stick it straight in the apollo heater, best vape bonus ever!

Im itching for a non timed monkey box too Fred, Could we use a generic dimmer switch with a bit of modding?

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I'm gonna talk to some friends about it

I really need to understand exactly what the monkey box is doing before can plan any sort of replacement

EDIT:
My ideal end-setup would be something that basically has the power transformer and control box built into 1 unit, and an XLR port on that box.
Then an extension cord of the users desired length could be added

As far as I can see it, that end-design-goal would eliminate most of my main issues with the sub:
- lowers the number of separate pieces - lowering clutter
- Removes the silly tiny cord currently on the monkey box - the user can have a cord that short if they want, but it's not mandatory
- The timer would be extended (I do think a timer is a good idea, just not the short 1hr one that is the only current option...)

Another edit:
@Teedub (just tagging you to make sure you don't miss my editing ramblings )

Before I know how the monkey box works, I'd assume some sort of simple dimmer would be at the very least be workable, and easy enough to wire up, essentially making it some kind of Sub XLR 1.0
But I don't know enough to know if that would fry the heater or give a shitty temp range or whatnot...
Kinda want to make sure everything is as close to 100% theoretically working as possible before I start playing with my ~$800 vape

Frederick McGuire said:

I'm gonna talk to some friends about it

I really need to understand exactly what the monkey box is doing before can plan any sort of replacement

EDIT:
My ideal end-setup would be something that basically has the power transformer and control box built into 1 unit, and an XLR port on that box.
Then an extension cord of the users desired length could be added

As far as I can see it, that end-design-goal would eliminate most of my main issues with the sub:
- lowers the number of separate pieces - lowering clutter
- Removes the silly tiny cord currently on the monkey box - the user can have a cord that short if they want, but it's not mandatory
- The timer would be extended (I do think a timer is a good idea, just not the short 1hr one that is the only current option...)

Another edit:
@Teedub (just tagging you to make sure you don't miss my editing ramblings )

Before I know how the monkey box works, I'd assume some sort of simple dimmer would be at the very least be workable, and easy enough to wire up, essentially making it some kind of Sub XLR 1.0
But I don't know enough to know if that would fry the heater or give a shitty temp range or whatnot...
Kinda want to make sure everything is as close to 100% theoretically working as possible before I start playing with my ~$800 vape

Click to expand...

We really need somebody to reverse engineer a monkey controller here. Someone with knowledge of how to interface with that processor will be required I think.

I have wondered since seeing those pics somebody helpfully posted further back of the PCB whether the microprocessor has a role in regulating power delivery to the heater (more than just the timer!) for more complex heat cycles in order to preserve heater life.

Remember guys, in a recent Bubbleman video Enrico says explicitly that the reason for bringing in the timer was not safety, it was to preserve the life of the heaters of which they were previously getting far too many warranty returns from people that left their unit on all the time!

I think ultimately for the guys at Sublimator to remove the timer, a change will need to be made to the heater or the warranty.

I wonder too if we could not make a great alternative sub controller using a PID instead, presuming we can find one that'll run on 20v dc! This would allow for us to incorporate similarly complex and gentler heating cycles so as not to damage the heater

I don't have a 2.0, but from what I've read the monkey box at its heart is a a 115v ac to 36w dc inverter, plus dimmer/attenuator, plus a timer. It would be relatively simple to make a substitute electrical controller without the timer. But a computerized (ie arduino) pirate monkey box would be awesome, I would even consider upgrading to a 2.0 if one was available. We could even sell it back to enrico if it was viable.

grokit said:

I don't have a 2.0, but from what I've read the monkey box at its heart is a a 115v ac to 36w dc inverter, plus dimmer/attenuator, plus a timer. It would be relatively simple to make a substitute electrical controller without the timer. But a computerized (ie arduino) pirate monkey box would be awesome, I would even consider upgrading to a 2.0 if one was available. We could even sell it back to enrico if it was viable.

Click to expand...

There is a digital box that as shown on Marijuana Mans youtube Video. I think the concept came from a user. Sublimator has been showing a lot of new things on instagram, but I never see it on the store or available online anywhere. I have a feeling it will be $200 or more for it and it will still include a timer that will be an hour and you can't bypass it.

Does anybody else get really dark abv at setting 4 not even in the green zone? Its been getting more dark over the last few days and its making me concerned.I used to use mainly setting 5 but the higher end of 5 and get lighter abv than i get now,and still using the same herbs. I am now trying @just above setting 3 and see what happens..This is a titanium Dab-master.

My first controller either came broken or broke shortly after receiving it. It would turn on full blast no matter what dial setting. It also always on full blast whether or not the controller was turned on.

Frederick McGuire said:

Aaand RIP sub buddy

New puppy decided crash tackling my FC-1000 would be a good idea

At least the only casualty was the sub buddy.

Anyways, as someone with pretty minor technical experience, how hard would it be to make some kind of replacement monkey box?

I know there's that one with digital temp (how would it measure temp though? I didn't think the sub had any kind of measurement tool?), so it's gotta be possible...

Would it basically just be a matter of measuring the output of the monkey controller and making another box that would give the same outputs?

Honestly, the only things more I want out of the controller are to fix that goddamned timer (either user adjustable, or 4 hours - 1 is just too short) and a more accurate selection dial - it's nigh on impossible to know if you've selected x.5 on the dial without going up to x+1 and dropping down 1 step - that annoys me.

Id love to tinker with something like that, but don't even know where I'd start...

Click to expand...

http://imgur.com/a/95le4 $60 but I already had the collection jar at the bottom.

brucee10 said:

My first controller either came broken or broke shortly after receiving it. It would turn on full blast no matter what dial setting. It also always on full blast whether or not the controller was turned on.

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Have just took some readings with a meter from the monkey controller and all i get is 36v throughout settings 1-12 this can not be correct? I thought the voltage would change between settings otherwise how does the head change in temp? going to give them an email see what they say. Unless anybody here can check theirs out bearing in mind i am on 240 v in Uk.

zippy said:

Have just took some readings with a meter from the monkey controller and all i get is 36v throughout settings 1-12 this can not be correct? I thought the voltage would change between settings otherwise how does the head change in temp? going to give them an email see what they say. Unless anybody here can check theirs out bearing in mind i am on 240 v in Uk.

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How did you measure it?

I'd guess there's a chance you'd get different readings when measuring the monkey box XLR directly (without the sub heater plugged in) vs measuring it while the heater is plugged in and under load?

Frederick McGuire said:

How did you measure it?

I'd guess there's a chance you'd get different readings when measuring the monkey box XLR directly (without the sub heater plugged in) vs measuring it while the heater is plugged in and under load?

Click to expand...

Measured with a voltmeter stuck into the female xlr. and nothing moved from 36v when i turned the wheel which i find odd. YOU may be right about under load have emailed them to see what they say. Fact being at setting 4 before the advised green zone my herbs are going quite dark,not staying greenish like when i first got it.

zippy said:

Measured with a voltmeter stuck into the female xlr. and nothing moved from 36v when i turned the wheel which i find odd. YOU may be right about under load have emailed them to see what they say. Fact being at setting 4 before the advised green zone my herbs are going quite dark,not staying greenish like when i first got it.

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Could be worse. My controller won't turn on at all. I took a dab before work and 10 hrs later nothing happens when I hit the knob. This is my second controller already.

zippy said:

going to give them an email see what they say

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Good luck with that

grokit said:

Good luck with that

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I'm not holding my breath...

I contacted planetvape straight after I got my sub, asking if there was any solution to the short cord problem - a new monkey box with longer cord, an extension cord, anything.

PV said they'd contact the sub guys and get back to me.

The response I got was basically
"no, a long cord there will cause voltage drop and cause the sub to not heat properly"
And then
"But the sublimator guys are looking into developing a 3ft cord soon - that's the longest possible extension the sub could handle"
(Not quotes, paraphrasing)

So either the sub guys are incompetent at electrical design (if doubt that?) or they just really don't want users using the sub how they want...
The timer is annoying but understandable...
That short cord on the monkey box is a big "fuck you" to absolutely anyone using their own glass with the sub IMO...

Why wouldn't they just make their own damn extension cords and sell them for crazy markups?
It cost me ~$30 to make a 5M (~15ft) extension cord, with enough spare cable to make another... ($7.50 per XLR connector, $15 for 10m of 0.75mm flex cable - I spoke to an electrician friend first to ensure I got cable that could hanndle the current)
It wouldn't surprise me to see a 1m/3ft official sub cord go for $100
A 5m/15ft, I could easily see them charging $150-$200
It would be an absolute rip off at those prices, but given the price point of the sub I wouldn't be surprised to see that sort of a pricing structure...

TL/DR:
I wouldn't expect the sub guys to be helpful ...

Frederick McGuire said:

TL/DR:
I wouldn't expect the sub guys to be helpful ...

Click to expand...

It's things like this that have been said countless times in this thread and the original sub thread that deter me. If there is one thing I must have with a product I'm purchasing is good customer service. With enrico and the sublimator team, I feel like they could give a fuck less about making people satisfied and are just trying to cash in at this point...