herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Definitely man, this is one good way to get the ratios you want, use starting material with the right ratio already
Naturally Decarbed Concentrates - Best Yet
- Thread starter Grow Goddess
- Start date
@Enchantre
The next time you come to Oregon, buy 190 Proof (95%) Everclear in an Oregon State Liquor Store. You have to ask at the counter for it - it is not on a shelf. I think it's about $18/750ML.
The next time you come to Oregon, buy 190 Proof (95%) Everclear in an Oregon State Liquor Store. You have to ask at the counter for it - it is not on a shelf. I think it's about $18/750ML.
killick
But I like it!
So the other day I 'impulse purchased' a Magical Butter machine. It does have a heat setting so it's not completely heat free, but I'm currently making a tincture using about 3 cups of 196% EC (from Alberta, where it's legal. Not from BC where I need a 'research permit' to obtain the same thing...).
3 cups EC, 60g nice herb, mainly high THC, with 20 grams of high CBD and 20g abv added. It's running on a 4 hour program, and at the end it goes into another pan and will get a very gentle water bath (below boiling).
This video shows them making it. I like the post-MB part, where they condense it down into about 1/2 of a 5 gram prescription bottle...
@Snappo has a great tinc recipe that he uses for everything, and iirc there is no heat - just time and likker
3 cups EC, 60g nice herb, mainly high THC, with 20 grams of high CBD and 20g abv added. It's running on a 4 hour program, and at the end it goes into another pan and will get a very gentle water bath (below boiling).
This video shows them making it. I like the post-MB part, where they condense it down into about 1/2 of a 5 gram prescription bottle...
@Snappo has a great tinc recipe that he uses for everything, and iirc there is no heat - just time and likker
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Thanks for the props @killick - actually, I do use heat: first for decarbing the herb in the oven, and then on the stove (tinc & decarbed herb in a mason jar placed in center of pan w/water @ approx. 170 f until 1/2 - 3/4 evaporated).@Snappo has a great tinc recipe that he uses for everything, and iirc there is no heat - just time and likker
killick
But I like it!
Oopsie - it's been awhile since I read it - sorry
Edit - now here's an idea - would you need to use heat to decarb herb for tincture? Wouldn't the alcohol also perform a decarb over a bit of time? I'm thinking like Ceviche, where the seafood 'cooks' in the citrus juice. It's only an idea... I didn't say it was a good one
Edit - now here's an idea - would you need to use heat to decarb herb for tincture? Wouldn't the alcohol also perform a decarb over a bit of time? I'm thinking like Ceviche, where the seafood 'cooks' in the citrus juice. It's only an idea... I didn't say it was a good one
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OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
I made this QWISO for vaporizing and testing new products for my vaporizer blog. It is simply QWISO kept in a thick sap state. I still had some left after 90 days. Every two weeks I would eat a dose just to see if it would naturally decarb. I still had about 10 grams left. Whammo! It is decarbed and the best I have ever eaten. No heat whatsoever. It offered me the cleanest, longest lasting buzz. Just a pea size dose and I feel the effects after 24 hours. I noticed that when it did finally decarb, it had taste to it.
RSO is great and has served me well, but I believe I have found a better method of making oil for treating illness. I am sure it is much more medicinal and I know it provides a preferred buzz (medicated feeling) at least in my opinion.
When you harvest you don’t throw your buds right into the oven to quick dry them so you can start enjoying immediately right? Of course not, that would be degrading your medicine. I feel the same way about making oil.
There is no need to apply any heat whatsoever; it only causes damage to the end product (oil). I have verified this. Not with tests, but with consumption. I have been working with the same strains for many years so when there is a difference, I notice it.
I made a sap like QWISO/QWET hash. I wasn’t able to consume it within 90 days. I was using it for vaporizing. After I made the oil, every couple of weeks or so I would eat a dose just to see if it gave me a buzz. After about 90 days, all of a sudden it was fully decarbed and had taste to it. The buzz is superior to RSO, in my opinion it offers a more clean comfortable feeling. One pea size dose and I am totally baked for 5 hours and feel the effects for 24 hours. A better, higher, harmonic head buzz with awesome visual effects. I have never had this effect from oil. I like it, it is the whoop. Keep your QWET or whatnot like a sap and store it in syringes for 90 days in a dark place and give it a try. With no heat, all the terpines and other goodies are in there. I only dry it with a fan, no heat at all. Simply pour the solvent into a pyrex baking dish and evaporate the alcohol off with a fan blowing across the pan.
Just wanted to pass this along, you may want to give it a try. You can make very small batches if you wish. You can simply start off using ¼ ounce of bud or an ounce, it doesn’t make a difference. Just make sure you date it.
I consider this oil a naturally decarbed sap. It is important to keep it in a sap state so you will keep all the terpines and CBDs. The buzz effects are the best I have had.
This is a first impression. It has been 5 days of taking the naturally decarbed oil.
I wish I could have it tested side by side to my RSO. I used the exact same method of washing in solvent. The only difference is I use a fan to help the evaporation, no heat whatsoever. I prefer 190 proof or higher organic or grain alcohol. I believe this helps the oil to stay in a sap state and dissolves almost instantly in your mouth. It can also be made with 99% isopropyl alcohol or whatnot. I prefer the safer grain alcohol. (I don’t mind a little grain alcohol being left behind).
At the very least it is a great alternative for people who do not have access to a large quantity of buds or simply cannot afford a large quantity of buds or people that are not comfortable having to boil off the solvent outside. Yes you have to wait at least 90 days for it to decarb, but if you need to you can decarb a small amount for immediate use by simply heating it in a rice cooker, frying pan, double boiler set up, etc. It will get you by until the main batch has naturally decarbed.
I will be discussing more about this oil on my blog. After trying it, that is what I will probably be taking from now on (the rest of my life).
I love RSO, but I am definitely preferring fully naturally (no heat) decarbed oil
Peace and God bless
Grow Goddess,
So, if I made my RSO with EC191, how long to have it air dry, ie - evaporate the Everclear?
Say like if I did a test. I still have some dried flowers in the freezer from the same plant I made my RSO from via the traditional heat method via double-boiler. So I could test side by side, same strain and everything.
Would I make it the same (not comfortable trying QWISO or something), but instead of heating, just cover the EC/Flower "mash" with like cheesecloth to keep out contaminants, and fan dry the evaporation process?
Just wondering how long until you think it might be completely evaporated and ready to try.
Thanks - I follow your posts regularly!
Oh, and of course I meant I still have RSO I made via heating from that plant for comparison.
mod note: Edited to merge posts and fix broken QUOTE tag.
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Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I will be honest, I don't quite have the process down pat using grain alcohol. I have only used it during the warmer months and it was a pain because the alcohol was evaporating faster than the water and much water was left behind. I got it to where I wanted it and made the ND Sap, but it was a pain. I haven't tested the process during the winter when the air is very dry. I will be comparing 192 proof polish vodka with 200 proof organic ethanol (KleenXtract).
For eating purposes, I try to avoid it evaporating too quickly and not in a thin layer in a pyrex (glass dish). I will start that way, then when I get it close to done, I will add some fresh alcohol and pour it into a metal measuring cup. Different strains will react differently using the grain alcohol. One strain even puttied up on me (never saw that before). I diluted that and filtered it and it took away the putty effect, but still different for that strain, and I am very familiar with making extracts with that strain.
I am still a beginner at QWET and Naturally Decarbed oils. I have 99% iso mastered as far as I am concerned. It is the grain alcohols that I am not fully accustomed or experienced with yet.
As far as how fast it will evaporate depends on how dry the atmosphere is and how thin of a layer of liquid you have. The thinner the layer, the more fast it will evaporate.
I am really hoping the KleenXtract (200 proof) solves the water issue for me.
I hope you plant to strain and filter the solvent before the evaporation process. Yes, you can cover the pan or dish with cheesecloth to keep dust out or when close to done, simply dilute and filter through a coffee filter once more and any dust or contaminants will be caught in the coffee filter.
QWET or QWISO spread out on a pyrex dish seems to purge faster than RSO, using no heat and just a fan as long as it is not humid.
It will still take at lest 100 days before it will be decarbed naturally. It must be kept in somewhat of a liquid state, honey thickness is acceptable, in order for it to decarb. Also, do not fill the storage container to the top, during the decarbing process, CO2 will begin to build up pressure. It will pop the tops or plungers from syringes so do not use them, trust me, I have lost enough oil to know this. Whatever container you seal it in, use something for back up in case it does leak, like a plate or in another glass so you can recover the leaked product.
If the buds are naturally decarbed, I suppose the oil may be done as soon as it is purged. I haven't tried that yet.
There is no going back for me. I won't ever use heat again. My products come out at least twice as good and last twice as long with natural decarbing. You can literally feel the difference medicinally speaking. You can tell there are other compounds in the oil that are lost during a heat decarb process. At least that is what I and my patients have experienced.
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
Grow Goddess,
Hmm. I am now worried about my own process! I have nothing to compare the RSO that I make to. I wonder if I am missing something in how I am decarbing?! If so, I am willing to face it. :-)
I won't do more than the specifics and leave out anything obvious form the time I cut that plant down. I am not trying to go off topic. I am actually wanting to make sure that I am posting ON topic, without some underlying misunderstanding on my part - of which I have had VERY many. Maybe I am not fully/properly "decarbing" in the first place?
Cut down branches. Hang upside down for about 4 days (Relative Humidity here inside is 25% at highest all winter).
Highly manicure the buds, and remove from branches. Dry another 2-3 days on Milliard collapsible drying rack.
Before all moisture is gone, jar cure for about 2 weeks burping jars at least daily.
Remove from jars back onto mesh drying rack for a few days.
Put into 3 large hefty freezer bags overnight. (It was about 7 ounces of manicured bud dry in the end).
Get gigantic glass bowl (I lined it with cheesecloth to make straining easier). Dump in all buds. Covered about 2" over top of where buds were with Everclear 191. Did the Rick Simpson non-fancy wooden stick crush for 15 minutes. Nothing pulverizing, but well chunked down. Don't know exactly how to put it. :-)
Strain out alcohol mixture into a bowl through the cheesecloth, bathe crushed buds again in EC191 for about 2 minutes, strain that into bowl and discard crushed buds.
Using a double boiler, I spend 4 hours slowly stirring out the Everclear. I only hit it with like a "5" heat on my electric stove every 1/2 hour or so when it looked like the evap bubbles were getting painfully slow.
Continue stirring off EC until only Oyle! I draw into syringes while still warm. Anything I can't draw up, I use a silicone scraper and scrape the rest into a stainless steel container that has a vaccum-lid. (UKonserve or something).
That finished (well, as "I" finished it, which might be wrong) oil is what I am using to mix 1:1 with EJMix. (Although, just to be as accurate as possible, I primarily use RSO sublingually - but for "breakthrough" pain, extra dosing via sublingual oyle can be fairly imprecise - either too little, or a nap! So the vaping is a godsend).
I hope I didn't just make a fool out of myself. Sigh. Seen when that happens on forums - I very well may have some "glaring error" that I will have to quote a DIFFERENT Simpson on..."D'oh!".
Any help, correction, or thoughts are so very much appreciated.
Hmm. I am now worried about my own process! I have nothing to compare the RSO that I make to. I wonder if I am missing something in how I am decarbing?! If so, I am willing to face it. :-)
I won't do more than the specifics and leave out anything obvious form the time I cut that plant down. I am not trying to go off topic. I am actually wanting to make sure that I am posting ON topic, without some underlying misunderstanding on my part - of which I have had VERY many. Maybe I am not fully/properly "decarbing" in the first place?
Cut down branches. Hang upside down for about 4 days (Relative Humidity here inside is 25% at highest all winter).
Highly manicure the buds, and remove from branches. Dry another 2-3 days on Milliard collapsible drying rack.
Before all moisture is gone, jar cure for about 2 weeks burping jars at least daily.
Remove from jars back onto mesh drying rack for a few days.
Put into 3 large hefty freezer bags overnight. (It was about 7 ounces of manicured bud dry in the end).
Get gigantic glass bowl (I lined it with cheesecloth to make straining easier). Dump in all buds. Covered about 2" over top of where buds were with Everclear 191. Did the Rick Simpson non-fancy wooden stick crush for 15 minutes. Nothing pulverizing, but well chunked down. Don't know exactly how to put it. :-)
Strain out alcohol mixture into a bowl through the cheesecloth, bathe crushed buds again in EC191 for about 2 minutes, strain that into bowl and discard crushed buds.
Using a double boiler, I spend 4 hours slowly stirring out the Everclear. I only hit it with like a "5" heat on my electric stove every 1/2 hour or so when it looked like the evap bubbles were getting painfully slow.
Continue stirring off EC until only Oyle! I draw into syringes while still warm. Anything I can't draw up, I use a silicone scraper and scrape the rest into a stainless steel container that has a vaccum-lid. (UKonserve or something).
That finished (well, as "I" finished it, which might be wrong) oil is what I am using to mix 1:1 with EJMix. (Although, just to be as accurate as possible, I primarily use RSO sublingually - but for "breakthrough" pain, extra dosing via sublingual oyle can be fairly imprecise - either too little, or a nap! So the vaping is a godsend).
I hope I didn't just make a fool out of myself. Sigh. Seen when that happens on forums - I very well may have some "glaring error" that I will have to quote a DIFFERENT Simpson on..."D'oh!".
Any help, correction, or thoughts are so very much appreciated.
Enchantre
Oil Painter
I see that you are doing it nearly exactly as presented by Rick Simpson himself, @OldOyler ... so, I wouldn't say it's wrong, ... if you want to do it without heat, then after all the crushing, stirring, and draining, you'd then follow Grow Goddess' technique.
I think you are perfectly on topic for this thread.
I think you are perfectly on topic for this thread.
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
I see that you are doing it nearly exactly as presented by Rick Simpson himself, @OldOyler ... so, I wouldn't say it's wrong, ... if you want to do it without heat, then after all the crushing, stirring, and draining, you'd then follow Grow Goddess' technique.
I think you are perfectly on topic for this thread.
That means an awful lot, thanks more than I can say.
I guess I was worried that I was missing a step to make it vapeable as well as sublingual. Sometimes the pain needs something extra (opiate free for over a decade), and vapeable is a perfect adjunct therapy. I got worried that maybe I didn't decarb "enough", or something. Like maybe I needed to have heated it first (but didn't think I needed to, it was bone dry before freezing in the steps I mentioned).
Either way, your kindness speaks volumes. Thanks.
:-)
Well, I still have some buds from same batch as I mentioned earlier.
So I'm going for it. I have only 2 zips left unoyled, but should be enough, and so I'll pick up some EC191 and get it moving so maybe done by mid-Spring. I'll let everyone know the results.
Thanks Grow Goddess!
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Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
The process sounds good to me, but I have never used the double boiler method and I have never used grain alcohol to produce RSO. I would have, but I learned about ND Sap by the time I was gong to try grain alcohol for the RSO.
I can only speak from what I have actually experienced. The process I use for making RSO is bone dry buds in a mason jar in the freezer along with 99% iso. When I am ready to do the extraction, I would just pour the freezer cold iso right into the frozen jar of buds. Then shake it and the buds should just crumble within 30 seconds or so. Then I would do a quick filtering with a strainer. I do that 2 to 3 times with the same material. The 2nd and 3rd would be very quick rinses. After fine filtering, it goes to the rice cooker. I make sure I do not burn it in the rice cooker. When ready, the remaining liquid goes into a metal measuring cup and on to a coffee MUG warmer to complete the purg with low heat. I would suck it up into the syringes sooner than most people. There are still some tiny CO2 bubbles on the top. That is when it is just decarbing, it is already purged. I suck it up into the syringes while warm, still a little runny. Then allow it to sit for 2 to 6 weeks and it would finish naturally decarbing. I notice the difference because by then I would have to cut my doses in half. It took me about 4 years to get that down. It worked for both of my cancer patients. They still say it was the best oil they ever had. A lot of that has to do with the quality of the buds though. I always use my best buds. Switching to no heat and letting it naturally decarb over 100 days did not increase the potency really, but it changed the buzz and doubled the length of the buzz. So instead of a 24 hour buzz from my dose, now I get a 48 hour buzz from one dose.
There is no going back. RSO is good and all, but the ND Sap is superior in my opinion.
You don't have to decarb the oil to get effects from vaporizing it, at least not from what I have experienced.
I hope this helps. and your post makes perfect sense to me. Again, I have not used the double boiler method, but the rice cooker has never let me down.
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
Thank you for giving me all that detail, it matters alot. Still trying to see the "shades" of processing cannabis into various concentrates so that I can better understand the steps in the basic RSO creation with EC191 that I simply "followed". Yes, I hand a fairly decent understanding of what each step was doing. But had absolutely nothing to compare until hitting various forums, and ended up finally coming out of "lurking" to stay on FC.
My apologies for asking a couple of question for my own clarification, made sure I sat and thought about all this before replying. :-)
I saw the rice cooker versus the double boiler as being the main difference in the original RSO prepartion method you used and the one I described? I was wondering if you agreed? (Don't bust a brain-cell, you laid out your method in more detail than I could have hoped for, just hoping that by understanding I can bring something to help as you refine your process, or at least have a second person running the method, too. :-)) Anyway, I felt that it was just the rice cooker vs dboiler. I checked the various rice cooker temps and instructions for making RSO (I didn't realize the rice cooker was the most common way versus double-boiler now!), and the temps and (to a large degree) times listed and tested ended up being the same as a double boiler. The rice cooker apparently works much more efficiently as far as time is concerned (and of course, maybe for other reasons, I was just checking for those traits) because the rice cooker senses when the heat drops below a certain point and finesses it back up. For me, I had to watch to where the evap bubbles stopped even with stirring the mixture, and then give it a quick hit of heat (middle of winter, and of course had to have fans and windows open when working this way!). Usually had to do that every 20-30 minutes. I was okay with doing the double-boiler method - I had a small beeswax candle business for about 10 yrs and prepared a LOT of beeswax candles via double boiler, so it felt natural. I guess I am saying that I felt comfortable knowing when the water in the bottom pot needed a quick re-heat, how long to then blast the medium heat on the stovetop, etc. (Or at least that is the delusion to which I cling!).
Also, I know you use ISO instead - is that like a WHOLE different ball game from EC191, so I shouldn't compare? Yikes, maybe I should have asked that first...!
I wanted to offer a tip (that everyone probably already knows, that's okay I am used to being WAY the last to know stuff) but anyway... I got some amber glass "essential oil" containers with the built in glass dropper lid online. I got the smaller size (15ml) and I love them for the finished RSO/EJmix! But I also wanted to add that I ended up loving them MORE because it was so easy to just go ahead and add, heat, and mix the EJMix and RSO right in the glass bottle, and sitting the glass dropper bottle right into the bowl that holds the hot water. I let the water go up 3/4 the height of the glass dropper bottle, used the built in glass dropper for stirring since it's attached, and - voila! I ended up with NO mess from mixing ingredients and then having to transfer them into a storage container, no glass stirring stick with any waste on it, etc.
Okay, again thanks for all your time - I am so psyched to try this!!
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OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
Wanted to mention that I read that Rick Simpson felt ether was the best solvent. I think. :-)
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
GG,
Okay, I have followed the exact same process that I mentioned that I use for making RSO, but of course stopped short of adding the finished mixture to a double boiler/rice cooker.
I used a 33-ounce U Konserve stainless steel rectangular tray (with vacuum lid for later) for the entire process so I wouldn't have to transfer anything.
I placed 2 zips of flowers into an Almond Nut milk bag (basically a tea bag), sat it in the stainless steel tray (fit nicely) and covered the dry with about 200ml of EC191. Lightly crunched for a few minutes, waiting 5 more. Removed nut milk bag and squeezed out last drops into stainless steel tray as well.
I slid the resulting 3/4 full tray into a new, very large almond nut milk bag (to keep out anything flying around), then placed it on a high shelf in a cool, dark room. Added an oscillating fan to blow in the general direction of the mixture. Room is 68 degrees, 20% rel. himidity.
Now, if I have not completely misunderstood what I should be doing, I will...wait.
Thanks GG!!!!
Okay, I have followed the exact same process that I mentioned that I use for making RSO, but of course stopped short of adding the finished mixture to a double boiler/rice cooker.
I used a 33-ounce U Konserve stainless steel rectangular tray (with vacuum lid for later) for the entire process so I wouldn't have to transfer anything.
I placed 2 zips of flowers into an Almond Nut milk bag (basically a tea bag), sat it in the stainless steel tray (fit nicely) and covered the dry with about 200ml of EC191. Lightly crunched for a few minutes, waiting 5 more. Removed nut milk bag and squeezed out last drops into stainless steel tray as well.
I slid the resulting 3/4 full tray into a new, very large almond nut milk bag (to keep out anything flying around), then placed it on a high shelf in a cool, dark room. Added an oscillating fan to blow in the general direction of the mixture. Room is 68 degrees, 20% rel. himidity.
Now, if I have not completely misunderstood what I should be doing, I will...wait.
Thanks GG!!!!
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OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
Oh my,
GG I think I ruined it during the air-evap process. Maybe I went too fast?
Within 2 days I had the following pic (taken this morning), had the lid just barely cracked, but maybe it evaporated too quickly? (EDIT: Couldn't figure out how to link just the picture I had in Shutterfly, so I just added a URL at the bottom of this post. I will have to get "up to speed" on how to point to those uploaded pics, sorry!)
Room temp was 64F with the fan on, obnoxiously low rh (my hygrometer never goes over 20% in that room). Fan was only running "in the direction of" the shelf, not directly onto the shelf or stainless steel container.
Should I maybe try putting the stainless steel container in a water bath to try and...I don't know, maybe melt it a bit to see if it "comes alive" again?
I am SO sorry. I just want to figure out what I did wrong so that I can run the process again correctly. I wouldn't mind being able to get this stuff back, but I am unsure if it is usable and it is not what bothers me - I want to know how to make my own ND Sap!! :-)
I don't know if the pic shows it, but I ended up with a thin film of a mildly mushy concrete, and specks of what look like the oil that have turned into a sort of black glass speckled all over. The spots are very shiny.
I put the lid all the way on, and I will let it sit closed until I can figure out what I did.
https://oldoyler.shutterfly.com/pictures/9
Thanks GG, and sorry for the trouble.
:-(
- OldOyler
GG I think I ruined it during the air-evap process. Maybe I went too fast?
Within 2 days I had the following pic (taken this morning), had the lid just barely cracked, but maybe it evaporated too quickly? (EDIT: Couldn't figure out how to link just the picture I had in Shutterfly, so I just added a URL at the bottom of this post. I will have to get "up to speed" on how to point to those uploaded pics, sorry!)
Room temp was 64F with the fan on, obnoxiously low rh (my hygrometer never goes over 20% in that room). Fan was only running "in the direction of" the shelf, not directly onto the shelf or stainless steel container.
Should I maybe try putting the stainless steel container in a water bath to try and...I don't know, maybe melt it a bit to see if it "comes alive" again?
I am SO sorry. I just want to figure out what I did wrong so that I can run the process again correctly. I wouldn't mind being able to get this stuff back, but I am unsure if it is usable and it is not what bothers me - I want to know how to make my own ND Sap!! :-)
I don't know if the pic shows it, but I ended up with a thin film of a mildly mushy concrete, and specks of what look like the oil that have turned into a sort of black glass speckled all over. The spots are very shiny.
I put the lid all the way on, and I will let it sit closed until I can figure out what I did.
https://oldoyler.shutterfly.com/pictures/9
Thanks GG, and sorry for the trouble.
:-(
- OldOyler
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I am assuming you used grain alcohol. A lot of strains are sensitive to grain alcohol, others are not.
One of my strains reacts similar to your picture, it kind of separated and chunked up. What I did to solve this for that individual strain was, diluted it with some fresh alcohol, you will need to gently stir it around to get all of the hardened concentrate liquid with the alcohol, ran it through a paper filter, then allowed it to evaporate.
I am hoping that the 200 proof KleenXtract does not have the same effect as the 192 proof alcohol I was using.
Grain alcohol is a bit more difficult to work with when extracting. Sometimes you have to add an extra step or two.
When it comes to eating the oil, don't worry about the color. You do want it to be an even oil that does not have any separation. I think if you dilute it and filter it, you will have that solved.
Keep an eye on it while evaporating to not allow it to completely harden. Get it to a liquid state, the thickness of honey with the grain alcohol and transfer it to a vial, but do not fill to the top. Allow it to naturally decarb 100 days or more. Put the sealed vial or container on a plate or in a glass just in case it leaks due to the pressure that will build up as the decarbing process begins and CO2 is released.
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I did a side-by-side comparison using gran alcohol with 2 different strains.
My favorite strain for oil making reacted even worse than what you showed. It even wanted to putty up and it came out brown. Usually it comes out a nice golden color when using 99% iso.
After taking the extra steps I mentioned above, it was still brown, but I was able to keep it in a nice even liquid state. The other strain came out a nice clear with a little yellow tint to it. After they were naturally decarbed, brown vs. clear, it didn't make a difference. They were each just as potent. Actually, the brown one tasted a bit better.
Let me know how it comes out. Especially after the 100+ days decarb.
My favorite strain for oil making reacted even worse than what you showed. It even wanted to putty up and it came out brown. Usually it comes out a nice golden color when using 99% iso.
After taking the extra steps I mentioned above, it was still brown, but I was able to keep it in a nice even liquid state. The other strain came out a nice clear with a little yellow tint to it. After they were naturally decarbed, brown vs. clear, it didn't make a difference. They were each just as potent. Actually, the brown one tasted a bit better.
Let me know how it comes out. Especially after the 100+ days decarb.
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
GG,
Ah, awesome! It's funny, because the EC always seemed to take SO long to evaporate when cooking, that I simply thought "Oh, it will take DAYS to dry". I hadn't considered how dry the air is here.
Yes, I was waiting for it to hit that point where I usually sigh (were I heat evaping) and think "Now, the long slow hour of stirring over no heat to get the rest of the evap done". Motor oil consistency floating in the tiniest bit of green-tinged liquid.
But I totally bypassed that accidentally.
The EC had my "standard" heat-decarbed RSO looking *gorgeous* golden-honey when viewed up close. I cook way low even on double-boiler, make sure I spent like 4 hours stirring slowly to get out 500ml of EC.
But your response is a RELIEF. Though I had wasted it, so I am SO glad I didn't ruin it completely.
Will post again after I get the initial drying right and 100 days of decarb!
In all seriousness, thanks more than I can say GG!
Lots of good vibes to you!
Ah, awesome! It's funny, because the EC always seemed to take SO long to evaporate when cooking, that I simply thought "Oh, it will take DAYS to dry". I hadn't considered how dry the air is here.
Yes, I was waiting for it to hit that point where I usually sigh (were I heat evaping) and think "Now, the long slow hour of stirring over no heat to get the rest of the evap done". Motor oil consistency floating in the tiniest bit of green-tinged liquid.
But I totally bypassed that accidentally.
The EC had my "standard" heat-decarbed RSO looking *gorgeous* golden-honey when viewed up close. I cook way low even on double-boiler, make sure I spent like 4 hours stirring slowly to get out 500ml of EC.
But your response is a RELIEF. Though I had wasted it, so I am SO glad I didn't ruin it completely.
Will post again after I get the initial drying right and 100 days of decarb!
In all seriousness, thanks more than I can say GG!
Lots of good vibes to you!
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I don't think you ruined it at all. At the worse, possibly lost some terpenes. Try to look at terpenes like alcohol. They evaporate very easily, especially with heat.
If I am not mistaken, terpenes will evaporate like alcohol with no heat, just not as fast.
I may have mentioned this previously, but just in case I didn't, I highly recommend the book Modern Essentials, Sixth Edition. It cost about $35 or so dollars. I ordered 3 different books, and spent less than $100. I am still waiting for one of the books to arrive. As soon as I cracked open the first book, I felt like I got my $100 worth right off the bat, less than 5 minutes of reading. That is for me and what I wanted, which is to learn more about natural plant extracts, natural remedies, these terpenes and remedies have been used for over 6,000 years. Just over the last 50-60 years or so that we have replaced essential oils with poisonous synthetic medicines that stay in your body and cause harm to the organs and serious side effects. Natural essential oils do not carry the negative side effects when used correctly. Just this one book as an example shows all kinds of cures for all kinds of ailments. I am not claiming they will all work for everyone, but I have more trust in God's creations over mans. I consider cannabis to be one of the most medicinal essential oil producing plant, but I also believe that there are other plants out there, as pointed out in the book, that are comparable in medicinal properties, especially when it comes to the terpenes. Way too many medicinal properties for me to list here, anti-tumor, anti-fungal, anti-cancer, it goes on. It will also educate you on how the properties work. They don't talk about cannabis, but books like this can truly help you to get a better understanding of it. I am just a beginner when it comes to essential oils. I truly believe it is something worth mastering.
Edited: corrected cost of book
If I am not mistaken, terpenes will evaporate like alcohol with no heat, just not as fast.
I may have mentioned this previously, but just in case I didn't, I highly recommend the book Modern Essentials, Sixth Edition. It cost about $35 or so dollars. I ordered 3 different books, and spent less than $100. I am still waiting for one of the books to arrive. As soon as I cracked open the first book, I felt like I got my $100 worth right off the bat, less than 5 minutes of reading. That is for me and what I wanted, which is to learn more about natural plant extracts, natural remedies, these terpenes and remedies have been used for over 6,000 years. Just over the last 50-60 years or so that we have replaced essential oils with poisonous synthetic medicines that stay in your body and cause harm to the organs and serious side effects. Natural essential oils do not carry the negative side effects when used correctly. Just this one book as an example shows all kinds of cures for all kinds of ailments. I am not claiming they will all work for everyone, but I have more trust in God's creations over mans. I consider cannabis to be one of the most medicinal essential oil producing plant, but I also believe that there are other plants out there, as pointed out in the book, that are comparable in medicinal properties, especially when it comes to the terpenes. Way too many medicinal properties for me to list here, anti-tumor, anti-fungal, anti-cancer, it goes on. It will also educate you on how the properties work. They don't talk about cannabis, but books like this can truly help you to get a better understanding of it. I am just a beginner when it comes to essential oils. I truly believe it is something worth mastering.
Edited: corrected cost of book
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Excellent post! Would you please be so kind and provide for us the titles of the 3 books? Thanks!
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy, Valerie Ann Worwood - I first found this book as hard cover for around $80, then I found one in Paperback for $17.
Modern Essentials Sixth Edition, Aroma Tools - $35 for the book, chart, and pocket reference.
Essential Oils Pocket Reference, Gary Young, spiral bound - I have not received this one yet so I cannot speak for it's value at this time. $33
The other two books, I like them both, I can't really say which I prefer as they are both filled with valuable information. If you have the funds, I would recommend at least the top two.
When ordering the books I also ordered Frankincense serrata Essential Oil. 10 ml. 100% Pure, Undiluted, Therapeutic Grade provided by Plant Therapy Essential Oils. You have to be careful and be sure you get 100% oil.
The frankincense has been confirmed to kill 2 different forms of leukemia cancers. It is still under testing. It has been known to have similar effects with many other cancers. What the best application is I do not know, but the books talk about it. The stuff smells awesome. I highly underestimated aromatherapy. I realized this after doing some reading in the books. Aroma therapy had been used around the world since before biblical times and during. They even talk about the holy anointing oil in the books.
I know and the authors know that heat can alter or ruin terpenes or anything else for that matter. I couldn't help it though, I put one drop of frankincense oil in about 5 grams of my e-cigarette oil. Just to try it out since it smelled so good. It tastes real good in the vape diluted with my e-cigg oil. The book mentioned that frankincense can help with lung issues like asthma. The next day after vaping it in my e-cigg I noticed my breathing was better. The stuff is very potent. I could even see somebody using in for perfume or cologne.
Knowledge is power. I am really excited about the essential oils and really enjoying reading about them. Either one is a great investment.
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I have looked over all three books. I like them all and would recommend them all. If I had to choose only one, it would be Modern Essentials Sixth Edition. This one came in a bundle with a quick reference guide and a pocket reference book.
Modern Essentials is easier to use because it is color coded.
Each book has their pros and cons, like with most products.
I would have to say the best bang for your buck would be Modern Essentials Sixth Edition.
OldOyler
Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
GG,
And just another piece of very strong (granted anecdotal, since it was accidental) evidence for "no-heat" decarb, i.e. - natural decarb.
Now this isn't from "no-heat", but I wanted to post it anyway. I really did think it was in the same vein.
I had one bottle of RSO that I had not done a final decarb on. I had purged out the EC191 the way I used to, double-boiler. I hadn't placed it in a 250-degree(F) oil bath for final purge/decarb. (It was from right when I was starting to consider maybe not finishing to get "original terpenes", and that I would mix this with fully-heated oil, I didn't know, was being my usual mad scientist self). Anyway...
It'd been sitting like that in my cabinet for about a month. I was initially just going to finish it in an oil bath - I hadn't air-evaporated the EC191 off, so I figured I would just run the final.
But then I remembered you had found your discovery by tasting it sort of accidentally...
Wowza. Better than my original "full heat-decarb" oil. What?!
Since I had recently added some coconut oil, etc. to all of my other batches of "full heat-decarb" oil, from the same strain and harvest, yadda yadda, I thought "perfect conditions".
The non-full-heat-decarbed "flavor mix" is actually MORE powerful than the same "flavor-mix" of the "full heat-decarb" oil.
I have just one more bottle like that I had double-boilered but not "finished" from the same batch. I am going to let that sit another month (or two) and see what I get.
But still, I was excited that the theory is proving itself out all the way across the heat spectrum, even if accidentally!
Peace and happiness to everybody!
And just another piece of very strong (granted anecdotal, since it was accidental) evidence for "no-heat" decarb, i.e. - natural decarb.
Now this isn't from "no-heat", but I wanted to post it anyway. I really did think it was in the same vein.
I had one bottle of RSO that I had not done a final decarb on. I had purged out the EC191 the way I used to, double-boiler. I hadn't placed it in a 250-degree(F) oil bath for final purge/decarb. (It was from right when I was starting to consider maybe not finishing to get "original terpenes", and that I would mix this with fully-heated oil, I didn't know, was being my usual mad scientist self). Anyway...
It'd been sitting like that in my cabinet for about a month. I was initially just going to finish it in an oil bath - I hadn't air-evaporated the EC191 off, so I figured I would just run the final.
But then I remembered you had found your discovery by tasting it sort of accidentally...
Wowza. Better than my original "full heat-decarb" oil. What?!
Since I had recently added some coconut oil, etc. to all of my other batches of "full heat-decarb" oil, from the same strain and harvest, yadda yadda, I thought "perfect conditions".
The non-full-heat-decarbed "flavor mix" is actually MORE powerful than the same "flavor-mix" of the "full heat-decarb" oil.
I have just one more bottle like that I had double-boilered but not "finished" from the same batch. I am going to let that sit another month (or two) and see what I get.
But still, I was excited that the theory is proving itself out all the way across the heat spectrum, even if accidentally!
Peace and happiness to everybody!
Grow Goddess
Oil Snob
I finally got around to comparing the 192 proof polish vodka to the 200 proof KleenXtract (organic ethanol). The ethyl was exactly what I was looking for, no water left behind. At the end of evaporation the 192 proof alcohol would always leave a milky water at the end of the process. Then I would have to deal with the water. The 200 proof solved that problem.
I know there is a thread here about the KX. I never got around to reading it, but I probably should have.
I will be using the 200 proof for my extractions. If I want to keep my product in more of a liquid state, I am willing to use the 192 proof to thin the concentrate. Just won't be using it for the initial extraction anymore.
I am leaving this batch in more of a liquid state so I can shake the vials daily or weekly. I am hoping keeping it in a liquid state and shaking the vials will help speed up the natural decarbing process.
You can see here a side by side. During the initial evaporation process the 192 proof is leaving a foamy water line. The atmosphere is very dry due to heating the house with wood burning stoves.
Here is the final purge on a lower grade batch. As you can see, after the alcohol evaporated the 192 proof left water behind (top).
I used TGA Querkle for the extraction. I scraped some off of the side of the glass. I was happy to see Querkle produces a nice looking oil when using organic solvents.
I know there is a thread here about the KX. I never got around to reading it, but I probably should have.
I will be using the 200 proof for my extractions. If I want to keep my product in more of a liquid state, I am willing to use the 192 proof to thin the concentrate. Just won't be using it for the initial extraction anymore.
I am leaving this batch in more of a liquid state so I can shake the vials daily or weekly. I am hoping keeping it in a liquid state and shaking the vials will help speed up the natural decarbing process.
You can see here a side by side. During the initial evaporation process the 192 proof is leaving a foamy water line. The atmosphere is very dry due to heating the house with wood burning stoves.
Here is the final purge on a lower grade batch. As you can see, after the alcohol evaporated the 192 proof left water behind (top).
I used TGA Querkle for the extraction. I scraped some off of the side of the glass. I was happy to see Querkle produces a nice looking oil when using organic solvents.