herbivore21
Well-Known Member
The scrape is painstaking, but always worth it ime! 
Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
canj00digit?
All my days in a daze...
The scrape is painstaking, but always worth it ime!
You were definitely one of the ones that finally convinced me to go glass and just deal with the hassle of scraping. You're right, it IS definitely worth it.
It's actually not that bad. You can warm it a bit and scrape onto or into whatever you choose.
When I use my smaller tank I use pyrex culture dishes I got from a scientific supply store.
negan
Well-Known Member
Anyone have any specialty scraping tools? Specifically for the corners of the pyrex? I've used the curved can opener on a swiss-army style knife and it works ok. I know they have curved razor blades (for vinyl floor installing IIRC) at home stores. I have been meaning to pick up one.
Anyone out there make a swiss army style tool/knife with concentrate tools? Would be sweet to have a couple of different tools in that format.
Anyone out there make a swiss army style tool/knife with concentrate tools? Would be sweet to have a couple of different tools in that format.
For the corners of the pyrex,bi use single edge blades. The cheaper the better. The cheap ones are usually more flexible. Then it is all about technique. For the curved sides I scrape from the top of the side of the dish, down and towards the center. For the corners, I force the blade to the shape of the corner with brute force.
2clicker
Observer
i am about to go back to scraping myself. i just did a run and evapped the ethanol out of a slick sheet lined pyrex. the "fold n peel" method works, but takes a long time and i think scraping is more efficient overall. i hated losing all that flake to my fingers, but maybe i need to warm the dish before scraping. that should eliminate the errl from flaking off the dish yeah...?
scrape it warm, then just let the blade cool and pop the shatter off the blade.
use a few blades and just collect as much onto it as possible. if you catch the right angle and have the right temp it piles up on itself and just snaps off the blade like a chunk of glass once cooled.
Bouldorado
Well-Known Member
I use two blades for my scraping. flat blade to get the bottom of the pan, and a curved exacto for the edges/corners.
freshly baked
Well-Known Member
A pallete knife works great. Very flexible thin blade. I'm on my 2nd one. They aren't very expensive. 2 dollars at a craft store. I got one at Walmart.
Yes...I'm interested in amberevil's question, as well. I understand concerns about silicon being "pervious" to the solvent but I was wondering whether there were additional issues regarding the PTFE sheets. I can also understand the no-heat evap method as being beneficial in terms of preserving terpenes, etc. but I would think the heat has nothing to do with the type of surface the purge is taking place on...
One additional question -sorta, kinda on the same subject. Is it more "beneficial" while evaporating off the vestigal solvent (in my case ETOH) by collecting the remaining puddles in the middle and essentially shooting for a consolidated oil mass or is it better to let the oil spread out as much as possible for the initial purge so that more heat gets to as thin a layer of oil as possible?
Avid fan of this thread!!!!!
Thanks!
One additional question -sorta, kinda on the same subject. Is it more "beneficial" while evaporating off the vestigal solvent (in my case ETOH) by collecting the remaining puddles in the middle and essentially shooting for a consolidated oil mass or is it better to let the oil spread out as much as possible for the initial purge so that more heat gets to as thin a layer of oil as possible?
Avid fan of this thread!!!!!
Thanks!
amberevil
Well-Known Member
@aidanchrist
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-101.7222/
That is for your lingo and information.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/d...-you-must-post-a-review-see-first-post.15709/
And that is a bunch of top reviewed glass from dhgate.com.
You can also just look through the other glass threads in the general vape section.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-101.7222/
That is for your lingo and information.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/d...-you-must-post-a-review-see-first-post.15709/
And that is a bunch of top reviewed glass from dhgate.com.
You can also just look through the other glass threads in the general vape section.
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Quite candidly I prefer the scrape. There have been too many stories (whether confirmed or not) of ptfe flaking teflon or parchment losing its coating over time and scraping.
I say fuck it, pyrex and a razor for me please! And guys, don't go nuts over the little shit in the corners. Once you get it to a point that you can't scrape any further heat the bowl up a little and that shit'll pour out just like reclaim. Don't worry, that small amount ain't gonna wax shit up.
I don't even bother half the time, how much do you think that's going to equate to? Trust me, it ain't shit.
Ran some stuff today with the new Capital Butane N-Blend. It has a slight amount of propane in it. I'll have to let you guys know how it goes.
I say fuck it, pyrex and a razor for me please! And guys, don't go nuts over the little shit in the corners. Once you get it to a point that you can't scrape any further heat the bowl up a little and that shit'll pour out just like reclaim. Don't worry, that small amount ain't gonna wax shit up.
I don't even bother half the time, how much do you think that's going to equate to? Trust me, it ain't shit.
Ran some stuff today with the new Capital Butane N-Blend. It has a slight amount of propane in it. I'll have to let you guys know how it goes.
Bouldorado
Well-Known Member
You want the oil spread as thinly and evenly as possible. A bigger surface area allows heat to be transferred to the oil much quicker and it's easier for the butane bubbles to escape.
The surface area thing is why I don't use ptfe sheets. I bought a roll of the slicksheet and got maybe 4 runs out it. The only time it was worth the extra 5 bucks per run was when I had ~9g of sticky, decarbed oil to scrape up. It was hard to get the ptfe to lay perfectly flat so the oil didn't collect as evenly. Ptfe transfers heat well, but for small runs that aren't flipped, there seems to be no advantage.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Also the ptfe sheets crinkle up and crease, leading to uneven heating. Furthermore, they are a fucking nightmare to spread thick deposits of oil if for some reason it bunches up somewhere on the sheet. They never perfectly conform to the rounded edges of most pyrex dishes leading to bunching, uneven crinkling, thick deposits around the edges in these crinkles which take longer to purge than the rest of the batch.
I have never advocated purging on Oil Slick sheets/mats for this reason. Use pyrex and deal with scraping. Beats fucking around with slick sheets (which especially with absolute shatter are such a nerve-wracking nightmare to use!).
Bouldorado
Well-Known Member
yeah I forgot about the creasing. every time I tried to line a pan with it, it'd get a few creases. oil sticks to those and it's hard to get off. when you fold the ptfe to collect the oil, you create more creases, and the oil gets even harder to remove. eventually the ptfe weakens and tears. then you're fucked.
@amberevil
I scrape at purge temp- 120 or so, but I don't leave the pan on the heat source. no reason you can't, I just like sitting on my couch. once the oil cools much below 100°, it's nigh impossible to scrape.
@amberevil
I scrape at purge temp- 120 or so, but I don't leave the pan on the heat source. no reason you can't, I just like sitting on my couch. once the oil cools much below 100°, it's nigh impossible to scrape.
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I returned to blades due to cost. blades and glass are reusable far beyond ptfe film and ptfe film gets expensive
I like to scrape at purging temp too. [100°F] if I plan to pop it off the blade. this keep it in a loose consistency but it cools fast enough once on the blade that you can remove it in a tacky state without shards flying everywhere.
if intend to scrape it onto glass or parchment around 120°F works best as it's much looser and applies more like scraping honey.
2clicker
Observer
as others have said. the PTFE sheets seemed to be the way to go, but after more use i do not find it to be any easier than scraping. in fact it can be more of a PITA.
not to mention the cost and the fact that teflon is pretty bad for our environment. having a lot of ptfe in landfills is no good. so to eliminate it altogether would be ideal.
i think 110-120 degrees should be about perfect for a clean scraping. just enough to make it very easy to remove and not strip terps.
not to mention the cost and the fact that teflon is pretty bad for our environment. having a lot of ptfe in landfills is no good. so to eliminate it altogether would be ideal.
i think 110-120 degrees should be about perfect for a clean scraping. just enough to make it very easy to remove and not strip terps.
spoutti
Well-Known Member
The times I came up with shatter or close to texture, the fold and peel with the ptfe sheet was marvelous. Over and under purged qwet (my regular outcome 
) are a patience game of freezing the sheet to get a little fold and peel action, put in the freezer, wait, fold and peel a bit, refreeze.. While loosing some too much frozen bit flying everywhere..
) are a patience game of freezing the sheet to get a little fold and peel action, put in the freezer, wait, fold and peel a bit, refreeze.. While loosing some too much frozen bit flying everywhere..
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
About to scrape my next creation - OG Bomb high CBD absolute shatter (I tried for around a 1:1 ratio of THC to CBD).
<0.2% THCA containing 80+% CBD OG Kush co2 oil (40%) to 60% THC Bomb extracted from bubble hash (62-75% return from the bubble after extraction/dewaxing - margin of error of 13%)
This stuff tastes like heaven, has a great daytime effect (full of THCV from the OG!).
So yellow, so tasty, retains that beautiful limey hashy taste of the THC bomb bubble. This is a flavour sensation haha.
Stay tuned for pics
<0.2% THCA containing 80+% CBD OG Kush co2 oil (40%) to 60% THC Bomb extracted from bubble hash (62-75% return from the bubble after extraction/dewaxing - margin of error of 13%)
This stuff tastes like heaven, has a great daytime effect (full of THCV from the OG
!).So yellow, so tasty, retains that beautiful limey hashy taste of the THC bomb bubble. This is a flavour sensation haha.
Stay tuned for pics
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negan
Well-Known Member
Just did another qwet run. This is my second time with EC. Very happy with the results. Liking EC better than iso for sure. After over cooking my first attempt at qwet and getting some oil with snap and pull type consistency, I brought down the temp on my PID controller to 155/165 (started low, raised, then lowered temp over purge). That is the temp of the oil bath, so the surface temp on the slickpad was around 140/150. Got more of a shatter like consistency this time.
Probably used around 5 to 6g and just did a single wash with EC. Going to do a second run with tane. I plan to make e juice with the BHO, just like the previous qwet attempt. The second run BHO was decently potent, but really better to take near bedtime, as it made me sleepy/couchlocked.
Probably used around 5 to 6g and just did a single wash with EC. Going to do a second run with tane. I plan to make e juice with the BHO, just like the previous qwet attempt. The second run BHO was decently potent, but really better to take near bedtime, as it made me sleepy/couchlocked.
Nelson69
New Member
Put 14g of bud in a mason jar now off to the freezer along with 91%ISO separately of course for tomorrows run. I have some kief in the bottom of my grinder, so my question is should i clean the grinder and should I put what little bit there is in the mason jar to help in the return. Thanks
TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
More grind = Blacker results (particulate in extract)