foonaciousd14
Member
Its a lot cheaper through ebay as well
Arizer Solo
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Its a lot cheaper through ebay as well
OF
Well-Known Member
But 3 is an odd number. You're no longer balanced.......
Best solution is to order a fourth I think. Maybe a silver one this time?
Bummer. I'm with the Lady, sounds like it time for a trip to the shop. I hope you have a backup. Maybe the friend who dropped it can loan you his vape if you don't? Just until yours comes back, of course........
Good luck with it, but IMO best to get it sorted out that to fight with it. You bought it to enjoy, not fuss with, right?
OF
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Caulin
Well-Known Member
Thunderstorm
Female Vaporist
Congrats on the silver one! About to pull the plug on one myself, I have a black one.
Is it true it's best to rotate them out? I think I read on here of someone who got a 2nd one,
stored it for a few months and it killed the battery.
ragnorak71
Well-Known Member
oh boy, gong has arrived. i am a blessed little raggy
OF
Well-Known Member
My guess (I can't guarantee anything of course) is they'll give you a pass on missing hardware not related to the problem. Every place I've ever worked at had similar problems. They want protection from tampering and well intentioned damage in the end.
IMO taking a screw out doesn't violate the warranty, whether you put it back or not. You didn't tinker inside and cause any problems........
I'd send it in, they seem to be good folks.
OF
oldspice
Well-Known Member
Hi guys, long time lurker here. So I've had my solo for about a year and a half and never had issues with it. Last night I noticed after a long session with my solo that there is a faint clicking sound coming from the heating element when the solo heats up to maintain the temperature. Is this normal and have I never noticed it, or is this a sign that my solo is about to kick? Thanks guys!
Mrmrmrmr
Well-Known Member
What's up Solo Fam 
I've been solo-less for months now and that has finally changed !
A friend Of mine let me borrow his and to be honest I forgot how powerful it is.
Aside from draw restriction it functions just like a evo IMO. Isn't that right @biohacker
Right now I'm
From .05 on setting 6. So efficient as well, I quit on milky hit #5
Now the only question is why I did I buy the volcano instead of this...
Wont make that mistake again
I've been solo-less for months now and that has finally changed !
A friend Of mine let me borrow his and to be honest I forgot how powerful it is.
Aside from draw restriction it functions just like a evo IMO. Isn't that right @biohacker
Right now I'm
From .05 on setting 6. So efficient as well, I quit on milky hit #5Now the only question is why I did I buy the volcano instead of this...
Wont make that mistake again
OF
Well-Known Member
Hard to say what's normal any more, and some would say I wouldn't recognize normal with a name tag and introduction anyway......
But a couple of guys have reported 'strange clicking sounds' before. AFAIK none of them was fatal, at least one fellow posted back it seemed to disappear on it's own (always disquieting). One of the theories is it's caused by expansion inside the over as pieces heat 'in steps' as it were.
I'd 'keep an ear on it', if it seems to get worse, send it in at a time convenient to you rather than let it leave you at the side of the road at the worst possible time?
This might be a good time to be sure your backup vape is standing by ready?
Good luck with it, as you know it's a great piece of gear to have available......
Now the only question is why I did I buy the volcano instead of this...
Don't sweat it, man. You were younger then........
OF
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
@OF is right again. Always make sure you have a back up vaporizer, you never know when "oh shit" happens. It's always at the worst possible time too.
The Solo is a sturdy well made device but it even breaks down sometimes and needs repaired. Some folks put more miles on the odometer than others.
I know some FCers really like a vaporizer that puts out the milky clouds. You can get that with the Solo using a variety of different stems. Vaporizing the high temps for sleep and pain, you can do that with the Vortex stem and it's not too harsh. Really looking forward to a bent stem Vortex and a GonG.
The Solo is a sturdy well made device but it even breaks down sometimes and needs repaired. Some folks put more miles on the odometer than others.
I know some FCers really like a vaporizer that puts out the milky clouds. You can get that with the Solo using a variety of different stems. Vaporizing the high temps for sleep and pain, you can do that with the Vortex stem and it's not too harsh. Really looking forward to a bent stem Vortex and a GonG.
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Aside from draw restriction it functions just like a evo IMO. Isn't that right @biohacker
I find that the Solo can have fuller thicker richer vapour than the EVO, but ya the draw restriction isn't even close - EVO is WIDE open and the Solo is borderline acceptable by my standards, but that's where all the airflow tweaks and pvhes come into play. I'm using and aftermarket turbo with adjustabowl and can make the bowl any size which works great for efficiency, and I rock/press on the gong as I hit it to increase airflow. Since I use it inverted, I can also lift it slightly off the gong since the fit just allow for that due to the Solo's solid weight. Another advantage is not having to grind or use screens!
mixchu69
Well-Known Member
I actually just purchased the fbomb and gong combo on PlanetVape. Please remember the prices are in Canadian dollars. My purchase price, including one adapter and 8 travel tubes was $160 Canadian, $120-130 in us. So the solo gong and fbomb should be about $100 total.
Regarding the pnwt and fbomb, I read that it is preference. Some like the pnwt more, some like the fbomb. So don't think the pnwt is worse than the fbomb, some like it better. I bought it from planetvape because of the currency conversion making everything about 20% cheaper.
Ifeejulah Vapor
Well-Known Member
Good to see this thread so active...the solo really might be the best vape out there (bold statement i know) haha
Whenevr i get a new vape i let my solos go unised for a little while and they always amaze me when i go back to them. So efficient and hard hitting. Heat lvl 4 when im alone 5 when with friends
Whenevr i get a new vape i let my solos go unised for a little while and they always amaze me when i go back to them. So efficient and hard hitting. Heat lvl 4 when im alone 5 when with friends
Detonator
Well-Known Member
My Solo had stopped working and I got it going again but it is still is not working correct? I took it all apart changed the battery.
Took the heating chamber out ( no pics of this ) and cleaned under there. Cleaned the heater disk under the oven with 90% alcohol.
Now it works again but at setting 2 it is very hot... Too Hot... Like it seems like 7
Any ideas? I see that little white lump holding the 2 small wire to the side of the chamber and I heard that might be a temp gauge, but not sure.. Maybe some dia-lectic grease so it makes better contact?
Any Help is Appreciated..
Took the heating chamber out ( no pics of this ) and cleaned under there. Cleaned the heater disk under the oven with 90% alcohol.
Now it works again but at setting 2 it is very hot... Too Hot... Like it seems like 7
Any ideas? I see that little white lump holding the 2 small wire to the side of the chamber and I heard that might be a temp gauge, but not sure.. Maybe some dia-lectic grease so it makes better contact?
Any Help is Appreciated..
I think you are correct about the temperature sensor. Not advisable to take the heater oven apart. However, those pics would have been great..
The sensor placement is critical and sounds like it got moved out of place. Not sure what conductor glue would be safe for this application. Was the sensor previously glued? If not, it should be able to put back in where it goes and close as possible to the bowl would be my guess. I do bet the wires can get damaged easily while moving around. Careful.
@OF can probably help better as he has had completely apart in the past.
Good luck.
EDIT: I remember that the wires are sealed with furnace cement. That grey crumbly stuff that has been questioned in the past and shown in your last pic. Not really a glue but more of a concrete. Did that stuff fall out or crumble off? It may have assisted in holding the T sensor in place...?
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OF
Well-Known Member
Is it actually cycling at 2? That is does the heat LED ever stop flashing?
Yes, that's a true rumor, the two smaller wires lead to the sensor, the two larger ones the heater. If the bonding (cement or spot weld depending) is broken but the heater still cycles you might have some success attaching it again, but I doubt it.
Sad to say I think it's probably fatal. IMO that is not an area to tamper with..
You've got the older version (that has connectors on the oven), the later ones are soldered in. You might want to contact Arizer, perhaps they'll sell you a replacement oven?
Good luck with it, I hope you have a solid backup to fall back on?
OF
jrcmang
Well-Known Member
The Solo continues to amaze me. Been running fresher product through it and I've found that I prefer higher temps now. I start at 4 and go to 5 after the first 5-6 minutes. After one session I'm feeling very groovy. Like I said before, I had a volcano years back and the solo rivals it in every area. Anyways I'm about to go rock another solo bowl....so happy with this purchase.
Detonator
Well-Known Member
It does cycle to what ever it is set at.. but 2 is hot enough to vape. The red heat light will go off when it gets to 2.
Now the two wires that go into that white lump. The white lump is together and it seeems to me the white lump is insulation and it is just was some kind of a paste that hardened up in that slot. I can remove it from the slot now and take the oven out.. I cleaned under the oven and put it all back together works the same..
Are you saying that on some models there is no white lump? And those two wires are somehow attached ( like soldered) to the side of the oven?
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
Was your Solo not under warranty? Once you tear it apart it voids the warranty. Good luck getting things working the right way. No good for herb if it gets too hot.
OF
Well-Known Member
No, that was furnace cement. It was what was holding everything in the proper place, and should not have been disturbed for reasons I guess you see now.
The fact it's cycling says the sensor itself is intact still, but no longer properly linked to the cup. No, it's not soldered, solder melts in this range. Leads are typically welded and the sensor either spot welded as well or otherwise linked thermally. The difference in models is the small PCB under the oven with the two connectors, that doesn't exist on the current production, the wires are longer and end on the main PCB.
Another option might be to contact PIU and see if Randy can set you up with a return that's dead for other reasons you can take the oven out of?
OF
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Detonator
Well-Known Member
The whole reason I took it apart was I thought the battery was dead. But after replacing the battery it still didn't work after i took it all apart it started working like I said then stopped. I'd take it apart put it back together then it would work for an hour then stop ....
Now I see why one of the two little wire going to the white lump was broken and it was making intermittent contact. The white lump could slide up and down and when i was examining it both wire broke off the lump ,,, now it wont work at all ..
If I could somehow buy that stuff that made the white lump , and make a new one I might get it to run again... I dunno what that stuff is?
I'm so bummed
Now I see why one of the two little wire going to the white lump was broken and it was making intermittent contact. The white lump could slide up and down and when i was examining it both wire broke off the lump ,,, now it wont work at all ..
If I could somehow buy that stuff that made the white lump , and make a new one I might get it to run again... I dunno what that stuff is?
I'm so bummed
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