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Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

215z

Well-Known Member
I think these TC devices better described as resistance-targetting or variable resistance PSU's. On these mods, you select a target temperature through the menu, and the microcontroller looks up the corresponding resistance from a table. The programmers populate this table with data for Nichrome 200. The mods don't require Nichrome 200 for temperature regulation to work, they just need Nichrome 200 so that the temperature you select corresponds to the actual coil temperature. Hopefully future mods will have data for other alloys, or the ability for users to modify the data. We stoners will wing it and make it work with any alloy that changes resistance predictably with temperature.

I wonder what the resistance of a 30 gauge 99.9% silver coil would be. Probably too low to be practical.

I too love that mech mods are utterly reliable.
 

bearpants

Well-Known Member
I been using ecig for a while and most drip. I decided to use the Igo that I don't like much to be the candidate for some wax. I wraped a 6 wrap .6 ohm coil around a 3mm dowell with 24guage wire. I then took SS mesh and rolled it up (kept it shore on sides leaving the coil) and stuck it through. I would put a piece of wax across the coils and then just put some juice over it all.

You can taste it and it tastes great. Will always make you cough but you are pretty pinned afterwards. I'm wondering other methods I can try. This is with my mech and a samsung 25r.


My coil info

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=0.6&awg=24&id=3

My battery info
http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp?b=Samsung_INR18650-25R&mah=2500&c=8.8
 

2clicker

Observer
I been using ecig for a while and most drip. I decided to use the Igo that I don't like much to be the candidate for some wax. I wraped a 6 wrap .6 ohm coil around a 3mm dowell with 24guage wire. I then took SS mesh and rolled it up (kept it shore on sides leaving the coil) and stuck it through. I would put a piece of wax across the coils and then just put some juice over it all.

You can taste it and it tastes great. Will always make you cough but you are pretty pinned afterwards. I'm wondering other methods I can try. This is with my mech and a samsung 25r.


My coil info

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=0.6&awg=24&id=3

My battery info
http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp?b=Samsung_INR18650-25R&mah=2500&c=8.8

i just got 4 of the samsung INR 25r cells (the baby blues) and i love them. i had heard that Milwaukee uses these same cells in their packs. and i just so happened to be given a pack that was brand new, and would charge, but would not power a tool. im sure its something simple like a soldering issue to fix it, but even tho i do have a milwaukee drill that could use that pack, i opened it up anyway. well the rumors were true. look what i found inside! i plan on freeing them all this week.

d5FXaIg.jpg
 
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bearpants

Well-Known Member
i just got 4 of the samsung INR 25r cells (the baby blues) and i love them. i had heard that Milwaukee uses these same cells in their packs. and i just so happened to be given a pack that was brand new, and would charge, but would not power a tool. im sure its something simple like a soldering issue to fix it, but even tho i do have a milwaukee drill that could use that pack, i opened it up anyway. well the rumors were true. look what i found inside! i plan on freeing them all this week.

d5FXaIg.jpg
That's amazing how much are those packs??
 
bearpants,

2clicker

Observer
That's amazing how much are those packs??

its milwaukees M18 Red Lithium XC pack. retails for $79-$99 i think. not worth it just for the cells, but this was given to me as it would not power a tool, but charges just fine.

i was originally going to repair it for my drill, but ive already got two packs. now i have a bunch of samsung cells for my mods.

going to be getting rid of some gear soon to fund a temp controlled mod. must be small and have quick battery replacement. from what i have researched so far there arent many optiin avail yet. esp to meet my list of demands. so now i am thinking of just buying a chip and building the device myself.

sorry for the rambling
 
2clicker,

2clicker

Observer
@2clicker the Vaporshark rDNA 40 sounds like what you are looking for. A bit pricey but a great little device.

yep its damn close. i really like the looks of the kanger "kbox". its like a mech mod with a box attached to it. i love the battery door. i wonder if i could swap a dna 40 into that kanger box...?

ill likely come up with an enclosure myself. its going to cost me twice as much as i wanna spend and will take twice as long as i want to make it, but ill still do it!
 
2clicker,

AnthoFranco

Well-Known Member
ohh crap, i guess i should've been taking notes. lol. (wait, what did you guys say?)

this a great thread.

i found some cool mechanical mod's w/ rda's on ebay.

i need to re-read and get a list.

i shopped 2 local stores. (1 head shop. 1 vape shop)

with all 3 sources. success should be easy.

thanks. some great advice. nice to read thru the whole progression of thread.
 
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AnthoFranco

Well-Known Member
So where do I get the porous ceramic stuff to use as a wick? A nice cylindrical chunk would fit nicely here:
14ed28c8fd2d9709dde2df70d647a3df.jpg

(Pic of a Utopia Planitia KISS cart with a "vapin donut" ceramic heating element)
i know this is an older post. how has this worked out for you? do you still use it?
 
AnthoFranco,

2clicker

Observer
@2clicker the Vaporshark rDNA 40 sounds like what you are looking for. A bit pricey but a great little device.

check this out. http://www.protovapor.com/product/xpv-dna-40d-with-temperature-protection/#reviews

it appears to be the smallest mod available with an authentic DNA 40 chip. unfortunately its $200. i think i am going to wait on a temp controlled device until they come in a size that i like. honestly im not sure anyone can really say how dangerous coil oxidation is, at the levels we are producing it. it could be a non-issue or it could be bad news. until we know for sure i am going to continue with my mech mods and just be aware of my coil temp manually. oh and i will be switching to Ti wire.
 
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Skored

Well-Known Member
Hey @2clicker, did any of your research find anything about dangers of ceramic donuts? I'm finding these to be awesome , but am now also cautious about running them hot. I never really do as I stay pulsed at 3.6 volts or around 18 watts (the ceramic is hardly at a glow). But I do dry burns, and am now wondering if that should stop.
 
Skored,

2clicker

Observer
Hey @2clicker, did any of your research find anything about dangers of ceramic donuts? I'm finding these to be awesome , but am now also cautious about running them hot. I never really do as I stay pulsed at 3.6 volts or around 18 watts (the ceramic is hardly at a glow). But I do dry burns, and am now wondering if that should stop.

nope. ceramics, at least the types used for this application (non-oxidizing), are plenty safe up to much higher temps than we need. i really like the vaping donuts also, but they are not porous and will not wick. plus they have that big hole in the center. a porous donut w/out a hole would be ideal IMO. you would still want to make sure the leads to the donut arent getting too hot, but that should be easy.

oh and i just want to add that all my posts are just a normal guy sharing his thoughts and ideas on this stuff. i am no scientist or doctor.
 

Skored

Well-Known Member
That's good to hear! I too like the idea of a solid porous circle. What falls through the center of the donut never gets properly vaporixed. It's the only thing that prevents me from loading a lot at once...

No disclaimer necessary. I take everything here as opinion, and go from there. But you have been immensely helpful, so thank you.
 
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walrus

Well-Known Member
check this out. http://www.protovapor.com/product/xpv-dna-40d-with-temperature-protection/#reviews

it appears to be the smallest mod available with an authentic DNA 40 chip. unfortunately its $200. i think i am going to wait on a temp controlled device until they come in a size that i like. honestly im not sure anyone can really say how dangerous coil oxidation is, at the levels we are producing it. it could be a non-issue or it could be bad news. until we know for sure i am going to continue with my mech mods and just be aware of my coil temp manually. oh and i will be switching to Ti wire.

I would consider the Vaporshark to be a bit smaller. The VS looks to be about an inch shorter, near identical thickness, and about 3/4 inch wider than the xpv. I guess it comes down to if you prefer the box mod form factor or the stick type. I'd say the VS would be more easily pocketable and is what I would lean toward. That said, the DNA 40 and temp control are still very new and things evolve quickly in the vaping world. If the temp control feature continues to catch on, there will be many more options available in no time.

I am intrigued by the temp control and will probably be trying it out in the near future. Reducing coil oxidation, improving the life of wicking material, and dialing in hits to the exact temperature that you prefer all sound like steps in the right direction.
 
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arrr

Well-Known Member
@2clicker some time ago you said that were going to make a small coil and put it on the inside of the RDX wick. I was wondering if you ever did this. If so how did it work?
 
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AnthoFranco

Well-Known Member
that proto DNA40 is cool. reminds me of my old proto pipe. (wish i still had that)

trying to grasp why coil temp is important.
 
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2clicker

Observer
that proto DNA40 is cool. reminds me of my old proto pipe. (wish i still had that)

trying to grasp why coil temp is important.

coil temp is important to eliminate wires oxidizing as well as formaldehyde production as well as other nasties from vaping. some are saying that formaldehyde production in ecig vaping is 40 times that of combusting cigs. unless that is strictly something to do with the ejuice and the heat i am not sure. nor am i sure how accurate that is and to how dangerous it is in general. but i can tell you that if i can eliminate it and know that is its not possible then i am ALL over that. until i find the right device or some proof comes out about this stuff i will stick to my mechs.

@2clicker some time ago you said that were going to make a small coil and put it on the inside of the RDX wick. I was wondering if you ever did this. If so how did it work?

funny you ask that. i had given it a shot a while back with mixed results and sorta scrapped the idea. but i tried something new just the other day and i gotta say its my new go to. basically you do a clapton style wrap onto a small drill bit, but you only do this for as much RXW you are going to use. i say clapton because its basically coreless clapton coil. or a microcoil that is pressed together tight so all the coils are touching each other. anyway, i have been building smaller DBCs lately and getting better results. so in my case i use 1.25" of 1/8" RXW. so i want my coil to be about that long, but leave the leads long. so then you feed coil through the RXW. if it doesnt want to go in just start twisting it until it sorta threads itself in. after you have your piece of RXW completely covering the coil, begin to make a DBC from there. if your coil isnt tight and there is too much space between wraps then its likely going to poke through the RXW. the goal here is to keep them as close as possible. what i achieved the other day was a 1.5ohm coil that vaped quickly, but took about 7 or 8 secs to even started getting red hot. knowing that time i can pulse the switch and eliminate glowing red wire. ill try to get pics of the next one i build which should be soon.

@2clicker So want -
10948846_390250051155329_1335956485_n.jpg

Praxis mod with derringer

Here is my DIY hanna clone with VTC4s for reference. Fits my hand really well and goes great in pockets.
2q0506h.jpg

haha yep. im selling a few things and will likely be getting a darringer soon. looks great on that praxis, but that is in 18350 mode no...? would love to see it on there in 18650 mode.

btw, for anyone interested in mech mod porn (feel like a nerd even saying that) look below!

this is my HCigar version of the Tarsius Prime in SS. i really wanted to add some copper to it so i ordered a copper version as well and swapped some parts between the two. these are both in 18650 mode. penny is for scale. arent they purdy?

tCli7Ec.jpg
PPkgoMS.jpg

V5K2KGL.jpg
vkJrAj0.jpg

SDDAD9B.jpg
CrNFeZ3.jpg
 

hopelessvtec

New Member
After reading few pages decided I'd try out my 1st RDA build (purchasing on fastech).. After coming from this...

YPKYRyu.jpg


Still plan to use my current battery, hopefully I can.. Going based that I can and will use it.. Is their any recommendations as to what RDA will work with this? Nothing crazy just want a good decent build that give good taste and decent clouds if that.. Sorry for the nooby-ness (still researching)

Battery specs:
  • Battery Capacity: 2000mAh
  • Operating Wattage: 6.0W-18.0W
  • Minimum Resistance: 1.0 ohm
  • 510/Ego Threaded
  • Passthrough functionality
 

negan

Well-Known Member
You can't sub ohm with 18350. Also battery life is like maybe a few decent pulls in an unregulated mod like that before it starts dropping off. Since you don't really want to go below 1.5 ohms (for safety) and with how small the derringer is, you would be limited in wire gauge. Might be able to get two coils in there with 24 ga, but single gives you more options.

I really like the low pro setup with 18350 mods but they are pretty impractical. I might get one just for when I'm hiking or biking. Or an emergency piece.

Those Praxis mods look slick. Crazy low voltage drop.
 
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arrr

Well-Known Member
@2clicker thanks. Post a pic of that coil when you get a chance. I use a cloupor m2 instead of my igo w as I find it doesn't waste as much. No runoff on the bottom. Trying to find a good set up in that tiny cup. I wish they made the cloupor or similar with a larger cup.
 
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negan

Well-Known Member
Liking the design of this rda.. Feel it'll work good for wax.. Anyone run this RDA?

https://m.fasttech.com/p/1816700

I have a Marquis, which is a similar setup. I don't really recommend either for wax hits. The problem is both are really setup for vertical coils (in the two juice wells). You really need horizontal coils so you can lay your dabs on top of the coil. I guess you could lay the mod on the side, load with a dab and then do a quick trigger fire to melt into coil, then you should be ok. The veritas is setup a little better (than the marquis) for a long horizontal coil out front. The veritas is supposedly hard to build on, mainly because of that top nut setup. It would work well with ejuice from concentrate

I've done ok with the marquis. It is much easier to build on. You can also use a chimney setup (I posted it on here) where you can throw small dabs inside the coil (wick is wrapped on the outside of coil). It works decently, but I really don't use it as much as my other RDAs with traditional coil builds.
 
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