OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

Look what happens if you buy one of these:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/glass...rb-vaporizer/213068750.html#palceorder-1-null

And stick a 3/4 inch or so piece of 1/2 inch OD (3/8 ID) silicone tube in the bottom instead of the cheap oil 'skillet' that comes with it ........it fits wonderfully on our favorite new vape:
0UpeNOl.jpg


Not only is it a surprisingly effective little bubbler it's also 'spill proof'. Yep, you can put it in your pocket full to the mark and not get a wet shirt. In fact you need to remember to lay the whole thing on it's side (or hold it upside down) when you take it off or suction will pull water out.

Anyway, a bit crude (in terms of alignment of parts), but well made and effective (at least this one is). And the price is certainly attractive ($20 shipped). It's basically the same diameter and not quite as long as the Air itself (without stem).

For ten bucks more you can get it as a set with a cheap eGo battery (your choice of size) and nice zipper case as well. Anyway, after a day's testing and fiddling (two spills.....) I recommend it if you're at all inclined to such stuff. Get 'em quick before they're all gone...

OF
 

2clicker

Observer
Gentle Friends,

Look what happens if you buy one of these:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/glass...rb-vaporizer/213068750.html#palceorder-1-null

And stick a 3/4 inch or so piece of 1/2 inch OD (3/8 ID) silicone tube in the bottom instead of the cheap oil 'skillet' that comes with it ........it fits wonderfully on our favorite new vape:
0UpeNOl.jpg


Not only is it a surprisingly effective little bubbler it's also 'spill proof'. Yep, you can put it in your pocket full to the mark and not get a wet shirt. In fact you need to remember to lay the whole thing on it's side (or hold it upside down) when you take it off or suction will pull water out.

Anyway, a bit crude (in terms of alignment of parts), but well made and effective (at least this one is). And the price is certainly attractive ($20 shipped). It's basically the same diameter and not quite as long as the Air itself (without stem).

For ten bucks more you can get it as a set with a cheap eGo battery (your choice of size) and nice zipper case as well. Anyway, after a day's testing and fiddling (two spills.....) I recommend it if you're at all inclined to such stuff. Get 'em quick before they're all gone...

OF

looks like a vaporfection inline perc.
 
2clicker,
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fabronaut

Well-Known Member
I bought both water tubes. Why the heck not, right? Cheaper than the standup water pipe bubbler I got at my LHS for $50 CAN plus tax (which I'll just give to combuster friends). Estimated shipping is in 2 - 3 weeks (needs to be confirmed by seller in 24 hours, I believe).

let the waiting game begin! :D
 

OF

Well-Known Member
looks like a vaporfection inline perc.

If you say so, never had the pleasure personally.

This one fits 'just right'. Does that one (or is it a GonG)?

Edit: I just looked it up, looks similar. Four times the bucks (plus shipping?), not good for guys like our Ataxian with high glass breakage rates....... It also looks like it's tubing based?

OF
 

2clicker

Observer
If you say so, never had the pleasure personally.

This one fits 'just right'. Does that one (or is it a GonG)?

Edit: I just looked it up, looks similar. Four times the bucks (plus shipping?), not good for guys like our Ataxian with high glass breakage rates....... It also looks like it's tubing based?

OF

yes they are used for whip/tubing based vapes. connecting the tubing to the nipple end. i use a peice of tubing just like yourself and use it with my ecig/errl vapes and my solo/INH05.

the vaporfection peices are spillproof also. i paid $30 for mine a couple years ago.

did you say those others were offered at DHGATE? isnt that a china supplier? not worried that they woukd be using china glass? the vaporfection units are boro.

when i said "looks like" i meant resembles. i say so because of the spillproof design.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
well that explains it.
btw what is mainly heating the herbs in AA and the solo? is it the air when you draw, the metal chamber, or the glass bowl?
All of it, in the Solo thread we often recommend newbies let the stem soak for an additional 20-30 seconds after it reaches temperature to let everything heat up (oven + glass + material) to get better clouds faster. The more experienced can start getting clouds a bit sooner. The hot air of course plays the part of moving the heat from the heater through the goods. With the Solo if you pull hard enough you can see the airflow overwhelm the heater and it will drop 1 or 2 steps and then heat back up to temperature. The vapor starts to thin out thereabout as well. Conduction from the glass stem (if you leave a load in and don't draw on it, it still vaporizes somewhat) plus the convection of the heater getting the air warm and through the material, and maybe some IR as well? I'm not sure how much of a part it plays in this system.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I haven't ISO cleaned my Solo oven in four or five months. There's a small ring around where the rim of the stem sits that I could take off but have no reason to, seems to be working hard with or without it. If you really want to, get a drop or two on a qtip and give it a swab while holding it upside down so the oven points down to the ground. Just damp enough to coat and effectively clean inside without any dripping. Maybe to for the walls first and then a second attempt for the bottom instead of trying to rush it all at once?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
isnt that a china supplier? not worried that they woukd be using china glass? the vaporfection units are boro.

Worried? Actually I'm confident it's "China glass" (that is Chinese made). Do you have a problem with that????

I just tried to test AA metal heating chamber with a temperature gun and it gave me something life 220F lol. wtf?
I believe optical temp sensors don't work on some surfaces, especially those that are reflective.

Exactly so. The missing factor is "emissivity", it's a critical (missing) factor (obviously).
http://www.optotherm.com/emiss-effects.htm

The default number is typically .95. Shiny metals, like you're most likely 'shooting' are much lower:
http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/IREducation/EmissivityTableMetals.htm

If you want to make sense of this good stuff you really need to shift to Thermocouple sensors in the load. Like I did here, 'sniffing at different points:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-729#post-450224

Similar efforts with Pinnacle found some interesting temperature distribution within the oven:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-pinnacle-by-vaporblunt.8431/page-106#post-508425

Of perhaps the most interest is the Ascent testing:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/ascent-vaporizer-by-davinci.9885/page-111#post-459922

Lots of good insights to be had that way I think.

well that explains it.
btw what is mainly heating the herbs in AA and the solo? is it the air when you draw, the metal chamber, or the glass bowl?

Conduction, overwhelmingly I think. Although heat in Solo (and therefore I assume Air) is spread through the load by convection it seems, it gets into the load by conduction. It can't be using IR to any useful extent since the temperatures are basically the same (high IR transfer rates depend on large temperature differences). It can be seen that for the most part temperature drops as cold air is drawing in, like in Ascent.

Unlike say Cera or VG there is not a big difference to work with, nor (like say HA) a small difference but a very large surface area in the exchanger to heat the air. Air and Solo are more like Vapman.

One more question.
Is it okay to wipe the metal chamber with 90% ISO after each use? it won't damage or rust right?

Should be fine, lots of guys do. Just be careful to use a minimum, you don't want it getting into the heater area under the cup (where it could 'flash off' and break the cement bond).

OF
 

g1zm0

Member
Worried? Actually I'm confident it's "China glass" (that is Chinese made). Do you have a problem with that????




Exactly so. The missing factor is "emissivity", it's a critical (missing) factor (obviously).
http://www.optotherm.com/emiss-effects.htm

The default number is typically .95. Shiny metals, like you're most likely 'shooting' are much lower:
http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/IREducation/EmissivityTableMetals.htm

If you want to make sense of this good stuff you really need to shift to Thermocouple sensors in the load. Like I did here, 'sniffing at different points:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-729#post-450224

Similar efforts with Pinnacle found some interesting temperature distribution within the oven:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-pinnacle-by-vaporblunt.8431/page-106#post-508425

Of perhaps the most interest is the Ascent testing:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/ascent-vaporizer-by-davinci.9885/page-111#post-459922

Lots of good insights to be had that way I think.



Conduction, overwhelmingly I think. Although heat in Solo (and therefore I assume Air) is spread through the load by convection it seems, it gets into the load by conduction. It can't be using IR to any useful extent since the temperatures are basically the same (high IR transfer rates depend on large temperature differences). It can be seen that for the most part temperature drops as cold air is drawing in, like in Ascent.

Unlike say Cera or VG there is not a big difference to work with, nor (like say HA) a small difference but a very large surface area in the exchanger to heat the air. Air and Solo are more like Vapman.



Should be fine, lots of guys do. Just be careful to use a minimum, you don't want it getting into the heater area under the cup (where it could 'flash off' and break the cement bond).

OF
Thanks for explaining! very interesting. It seems like you know A LOT about all this. I read your post in the solo thread where you were testing the temps of the solo. I didn't really understand it. Did you test it 3 times each at different temps(steps) ?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for explaining! very interesting. It seems like you know A LOT about all this.

Did you test it 3 times each at different temps(steps) ?

You're welcome. I agree, interesting and insightful. It led to the 'discovery' of the advantage of glass flowers (more mass of hot glass), something hopefully being repeated with PV's new 'vortex stem' for Solo (and of course Air).

Yeah, I've done this a lot over the years, got paid to you know...... I've also taught temperature sensing (and a lot of other related good stuff) a few time to various audiences, some rapt (the ones being paid....), some fighting boredom (some more successfully than others).

Sorry to be confusing with the chart, it follows an earlier post. The key to the three different numbers is just before the chart:

"Summarized below are the factory number, my cotton pack (no draw) number and finally the highest I could toke to without passing out:

Step 2: 365, 310, 340
Step 4: 383, 360, 390
Step 6: 401, 400, 430"


IMO it shows two important factors. First off, convection from the draw spreads the heat (difference between second and thrid column). Secondly it shows that the real load temperature isn't always what the display says it should be (first and third columns).

I ran the test many times under different conditions, I just posted a few examples.

OF
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
I ran the test many times under different conditions, I just posted a few examples.

I just remembered that I ran this same test last summer and recorded it, but never published it. The temperature reading is off by about 25 - 30°C as I realized after that I was detecting the difference between the two sensors that came with the digital thermometer so the actual temp of the bowl is really about 25 - 30°C above what the digital readout says.

Basically I can confirm OF's findings of an increase in temperature during the draw. My findings show a wider margin that OF's, by a few degrees, but are not that far off from his results.

Skip to 2:20 if you don't want to watch a Solo heat up while listening to golf commentary in the background.


Special thanks go out to my lab assistant @Buildozer.

:peace:
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
So i've had the Air for a couple of weeks now, and have given it enough time I think to form my opinion on it. It's an incredible device for portability, and basically like a mini-solo with swapable batteries. I've had zero issues with stems getting loose whatsoever, including Solo stems, always nice and snug. The device doesn't suit me as well as my Solo though, simply because I need water filtration when vaping, and the Air has too much airflow when using (turbo) gong's anyway. The Air can milk, but just not like my 2014 Solo, especially at max temps. The included short stems are really great. The smaller one with the plastic mouthpiece can get hot on higher temps as to be expected, but it's tolerable and completely dependent on how often and hard you hit it during your sesh.

The longer mouthpiece that was included with my Air was like a regular Solo straight piece cut in half. I really prefer that over the plastic mouthpieces, just due to my love of glass. I did not have a 3rd (solo) straight stem included like some of you, and purchased from vaporizers.ca. Since I can't really handle dry vapour even at low temps, and my Solo provides me greater satisfaction through water, i really have no need for the Air, but am happy I tried it out and am sure it will go to a good home.

I highly recommend the Air to anyone looking for a nice high quality discrete portable. I found the battery life pretty decent actually, pretty close to about an hour of running time. The Airflow is great, and totally dependent on how the stem sits in the Air IMO, I just think it has too much airflow when mated with glass, you and literally hear the rush of air compared to the Solo. I saw the mods posted to restrict the airflow a bit, just not interested in it. Much depends on stem hole size as well, as they all are different.

Nice job Arizer!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Basically I can confirm OF's findings of an increase in temperature during the draw. My findings show a wider margin that OF's, by a few degrees, but are not that far off from his results.

That's the system, I lie and you swear to it.......

I've got a friend who got really interested in this so he bought a Thermocouple meter and repeated it too. He found the same shifts basically. I figure some of the differences might have to do with exact placement of the sensor. Or phase of the moon.

FWIW this same fellow has an Air of his very own. He confirms what I saw in terms of 'slightly higher than normal' charge terminations (he gets about 4.25 Volts as well), he also identified the abnormally deep discharge Air allows (as reported by Centigen).

Fun stuff if you like that sort of stuff, otherwise all it really does is explain to others why you enjoy your vape so much.....

OF
 

Vapormatic

Well-Known Member
Fun stuff if you like that sort of stuff, otherwise all it really does is explain to others why you enjoy your vape so much.....

OF
It even gets more interesting if we look at air/vapor temps downstream of oven, when compared to vapor density.

The theory goes that the higher the vapor concentration, the more heat required to heat an equal amount of thick vapor vs thin/no vapor(specific heat of air vs. steam). So the downstream air temp rises with increasing airflow, until the oven/load's vapor production thins, then downstream temps spike toward oven temp, burning lips.

Or, the best temp, best stem pack technique and ideal airflow gives the highest vapor concentration which gives the greatest difference in temp between oven and air temp at mouthpiece(over airflow).

There's a goldilocks zone, just don't know where, it depends…
 

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
so I just saw puffitup has the air in stock, has anyone already successfully got the price dowb with pricematching?

I'm in europe, so I'm hesitating to order it now from puffitup, or wait till an european retailer has it in stock. if I can get it from within europe that saves me paying any custom duties(and probably lower shipping costs), but if I can get the price down enough with pricematching it could actually be cheaper if I order it from the US(especially since the conversion rate from dollars to euro already makes it cheaper to order from the US than the price of european retailers)
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The theory goes that the higher the vapor concentration, the more heat required to heat an equal amount of thick vapor vs thin/no vapor(specific heat of air vs. steam). So the downstream air temp rises with increasing airflow, until the oven/load's vapor production thins, then downstream temps spike toward oven temp, burning lips.

Interesting. Where did this theory come from, I don't think I'm following?

Downstream temperature has nothing to do with air/vapor ration per se. That is a Volcano bag is at room temperature no matter what the ratio. One can't be an 'iron clad' reflection of the other. Temperature and density are, I believe, "independent variables", not linked by physics.

In true convection (not what's going on here) air temperature generally rises in the load area until evaporation starts to happen. At that point it is (or can be if not over driven) pretty constant even though the source might be well over 1000F like it is in say Cera. Say 400F. It obviously cools before it gets to you (breathing 400F air is not good). In fact there is no longer any vapor in what you and I breathe in, it's an aerosol and therefore can be any temperature (bringing us back to the cold vapor in the Volcano bag).

So where does this theory come from? Where can I read more about it? TIA

OF
 

tdriver

Well-Known Member
so I just saw puffitup has the air in stock, has anyone already successfully got the price dowb with pricematching?

I'm in europe, so I'm hesitating to order it now from puffitup, or wait till an european retailer has it in stock. if I can get it from within europe that saves me paying any custom duties(and probably lower shipping costs), but if I can get the price down enough with pricematching it could actually be cheaper if I order it from the US(especially since the conversion rate from dollars to euro already makes it cheaper to order from the US than the price of european retailers)


don't forget import tax...... that can bite you in the rear real bad.....!
even if the item is cheap. happened to me many times.
 

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
yes but I won't expect import duties to go over 20-30 euro, there is a 10 euro flat tax, then 5 euro handling fees and last a certain percentage of the value(incl shipping costs I think), but the %-part is usually the smallest partunless you buy something worth in the 1000s), so I think I could pay the same or less as the price of european retailers even with importtax+shipping costs added if I can get a good price on the air itself.

I never actually had to pay custom duties though, the few times I ordered something from outside the EU it was either cheap enough to fall below the limit(so no duties at all), or I was able te arrange with the seller to declare a lower value, below the limit. (not going to try that for the air though, I only do that with more inexpensive stuff)
my mom did have to pay it once or twice when she ordered some flutes from korea, bu other times she ordered flutes internationally she didn't have to pay anything despite it being above the taxfree-limit, so it's a bit of a gamble, you can be lucky enough they don't see it apparently(from my limited second-hand experience I would guess the chance of actually having to pay the duties around 50%)

edit:
Namastevapes are Europe based. I'm in NZ but got my Solo through them and they were great. Pretty sure they are Germany based.
saw your message after I posted mine, thanks, seems like they have the air in stock and cheaper as other eu retailers I've seen too.
seems like they have different websites for different countries, they even have one specifically for the netherlands.

edit2: unfortunatly, namastevapes don't seem to carry any accesoires for the air... so I think I'll keep looking, because I really want some spare batteries(was thinking of getting 4 or 5, so it can last all night, already have a nightcore i4 charger on it's way from china)
 
Last edited:
djonkoman,
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Vapormatic

Well-Known Member
Interesting. Where did this theory come from, I don't think I'm following?
OF
It's original thought based on specific heat of air vs. steam. Hot air is converted to vapor as it passes over load with no energy gained or lost(+\- conduction). The more Vapor produced, the higher the specific heat of the new mix, the more the same heat energy gets 'diluted', the lower the outlet temp.
 
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