Crafty/Crafty+ by Storz & Bickel

lazylathe

Almost there...
My timer just changed from 1 to 2!!!
2 hours of usage in two weeks, seems pretty lame! LOL!
But then again i am finding that my preferred method is to heat the Crafty up to 205 C
Using the MiniVap Flexicone and small basket that fits directly in my 18/18 joint
Remove cooling unit and seal Crafty to silicone Flexicone and rip of the FC-187!!

Awesome flavour and huge clouds!!
Halfway through i kick it up to 210 C and finish off the basket!
ABV is straw coloured and when i tried it in my Nano i go a fair cloud but the taste was awful!!
For me that is good enough!
And the effects are very medicating!

So far zero issues with the Crafty or the app!
Connects every time!
Using a basket the chamber stays pristine!
I was not a big fan of the cooling unit and how it altered the taste for me.

So win, win for me!
I have an awesome, small portable vape as well as a home use vape that can milk my WT's!
After a bit of tweaking i am really enjoying this vape!
I get between 4 to 5 sessions from a charge which is good.
Still want to try concentrates in it!

And we are doing the Crafty rambling again...
Over and out!
:peace:
 

freshly baked

Well-Known Member
Thanks Pak!
WNIxCer.jpg
 
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freshly baked,
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DMPesso

Well-Known Member
I've only been running the fine screen for a couple days, so maybe mine will get clogged too? I think a cleaning every few weeks is acceptable...

Where did you get a finer screen then what's in the heating chamber ?
 
DMPesso,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Apparently, if I am not corrected, freshly has become the first person EVER to combust in a S&B vape, in the history of the forum at least.

The first picture definitely looks black though.

If you correct the white balance of the first picture (assuming the background is white) then it looks nearly identical to the second one. This looks to me like two pictures of the same pile of ABV shot with different lighting conditions. The second one is properly colour balanced, the first has a blue cast that plugs up the shadows. There is still a lot of char in it, but not as much as the first picture leads you to believe.

Edit: I don't see any ash.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
I believe there is one in the heater chamber and one replacement for that screen. It's that screen I use also as my top screen.
Any tips for replacing that screen? I just tried to replace the stock screen with the finer replacement screen and I ended up fucking both of them up pretty good. :doh:

:peace:
 
Stu,

Volteric

Well-Known Member
Any tips for replacing that screen? I just tried to replace the stock screen with the finer replacement screen and I ended up fucking both of them up pretty good. :doh:

:peace:

Sorry Stu. If I recall I used the pick end through the snall space in the mouthpiece to pop it out. You know I recall thinking this was the chink in the S&B armor man. Still feel like it's not clear hiw to replace that screen in an easy and clear way!
 
Volteric,

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
Check out page 24 on the manual for pics. The pick tool poked through the air path above the screen to push it out. Then you just press the new one in. I use the tamp side of the pick to help seat the new screen in.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Sorry Stu. If I recall I used the pick end through the snall space in the mouthpiece to pop it out. You know I recall thinking this was the chink in the S&B armor man. Still feel like it's not clear hiw to replace that screen in an easy and clear way!
I managed to pop it out ok by poking through the mouthpiece as you mention. My problem was re-seating the new screen. I should've tried this with a freshly cleaned CU as it's probably the buildup that is causing me to :bang: trying to seat a fresh screen. I'm going to clean it now and try it without dealing with the gunk.

:peace:
 

Rrose Selavy

log enthusiast
is anyone having problems with there second smallest o ring (the one inside the CU underneath where the hologram slides in) tearing? i have been through 2 in 2 months.

do i need it?
any suggestions for preventing this?
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
is anyone having problems with there second smallest o ring (the one inside the CU underneath where the hologram slides in) tearing? i have been through 2 in 2 months.

do i need it?
any suggestions for preventing this?

When you assemble it, try to push the o-ring as low as it goes so it's out of the way of the two small slots where the hologram piece slides in and locks. There is where the tearing happens for me. :tup:
 

Rrose Selavy

log enthusiast
gotcha:nod: it seems to be working fine without it for the time being. will probably pick up an extra o ring set in the future though

noticed one of my top fins is cracked. nbd though just a little annoying. i dont think i would have noticed if it wasnt just mentioned a few pages back :bang:
 

freshly baked

Well-Known Member
If you correct the white balance of the first picture (assuming the background is white) then it looks nearly identical to the second one. This looks to me like two pictures of the same pile of ABV shot with different lighting conditions. The second one is properly colour balanced, the first has a blue cast that plugs up the shadows. There is still a lot of char in it, but not as much as the first picture leads you to believe.

Edit: I don't see any ash.
I took 2 pictures, the first was too dark so I pulled the white piece of paper into the sunshine for the second picture. There was no ash but if I hadn't turned it off when I did I believe it would've. I'm more than happy with s&b. They'll get it right and make me happy. I'm not putting this out there to hate on them , just sharing what happened.
 

adam_baumm

Well-Known Member
When you assemble it, try to push the o-ring as low as it goes so it's out of the way of the two small slots where the hologram piece slides in and locks. There is where the tearing happens for me. :tup:
Hi all, all of my o rings from inside the cooling unit are torn now, I had one fail and some honey started coming thru under the Logo. Thanks for the tip farma :)
 
adam_baumm,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
I've never seen a S&B device that is capable of combustion. If yours truly is producing fire then I'd send it in for service.


I've torn a o ring also by not having it fully seated. I use the orange pick to get it into place now and no more problems.
 

Mike M

Well-Known Member
Sorry Stu. If I recall I used the pick end through the snall space in the mouthpiece to pop it out. You know I recall thinking this was the chink in the S&B armor man. Still feel like it's not clear hiw to replace that screen in an easy and clear way!
Had similar issue, best to pinch it into dome, which decreases the circumference, then fit one side, then flatten the dome down so the other sides fit it.

I've never seen a S&B device that is capable of combustion. If yours truly is producing fire then I'd send it in for service.


I've torn a o ring also by not having it fully seated. I use the orange pick to get it into place now and no more problems.
Yes, the o ring has to be rolled down under the notch, so it doesn't tear, had similar issue.


Sorry for back to back thread on this
 
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DMPesso

Well-Known Member
Yes, the o ring has to be rolled down under the notch, so it doesn't tear, had similar issue.


Sorry for back to back thread on this

Under what notch ? I tried rolling it down it only went into that groove and it went in it very easily. Mine is ripped in only one week of use. What is this O ring even for ? What would happen if I take it out? Smoke passes through it anyway right? I'm curious what this O ring is even for? It ripped from the hologram clip?
 
DMPesso,

freshly baked

Well-Known Member
I'm shipping it out today. the nice lady on the phone said it would most likely be a replacement.
 
freshly baked,

h3rbalist

I used to do drugs. I still do, but I used to, too
So now my Crafty is taking around 6 hours to charge fully.

:|

Looks like its going to be winging its way back to S&B with a nice letter for Nicole.
 

Mike M

Well-Known Member
Under what notch ? I tried rolling it down it only went into that groove and it went in it very easily. Mine is ripped in only one week of use. What is this O ring even for ? What would happen if I take it out? Smoke passes through it anyway right? I'm curious what this O ring is even for? It ripped from the hologram clip?
Perhaps someone on the site can post a video, I can't. It can be a bitch, I just try to make sure I can "roll" the o ring down as low as I can go, so when pushed up into the top piece, it doesn't get torn or damaged.

I would recommend that everyone with a Mighty/Crafty purchase the "Wear and Tear" set and the extra O rings set, you are going to need them. Even if you have not torn them, they wear out, and I have already spent too many minutes crawling on the floor searching for an O ring that popped out of my hand when cleaning.:)

Still even with the extra maintenance, I love the Mighty
 
Mike M,
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tdriver

Well-Known Member
I managed to pop it out ok by poking through the mouthpiece as you mention. My problem was re-seating the new screen. I should've tried this with a freshly cleaned CU as it's probably the buildup that is causing me to :bang: trying to seat a fresh screen. I'm going to clean it now and try it without dealing with the gunk.

:peace:



here is a video on how to clean the cooling chamber and screen replacement.



 
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