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The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

mixchu69

Well-Known Member
I have been experiencing this as well the last week or so. I notice it most when the battery gets to mid level and lower, my work around is to set the temp a few degrees hotter then I want and turn down to get that satisfying vibrate.
Exactly!!!
 
mixchu69,

GR

Well-Known Member
Exactly!!!
I just saw a post about holding the button for 10 sec to reset, not sure if we are talking the on/off button or holding the up/down button but I think I will try.

Not sure if there is a chip helping with a heating alogorythem or just a temp sensor but it is definitely wonky on mine. Might have read that on the Crafty thread though since it does nothing on my Mighty.

I have not found to be a problem but might be worth an email to S&B. My Mighty is at full charge atm so it is hitting target temps easily but something I also noticed when battery is mid or lower is that temp drops much lower to rebound from after a hit compaired to full charge. My work around with this is to heat to max temp and drop to 380f after my low temp hits, I feel this gives me lots of tasty hits with big production and are cooler then hitting at max temp.
 
Last edited:
GR,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
PS : I made a kind of faq with Crafty and Mighty threads, I don't know if I am allowed to publish it in this thread, if someone want to get it, PM.

You can post it here and if it needs to be moved, we'll take care of it.
 
pakalolo,
  • Like
Reactions: NickDlow

Stinky

Well-Known Member
Crafty also workes plugged in. I also had an issue that resolved itself, in my case Crafty wouldn't auto shutoff until I drained it. S&B support advised to reset the settings to default (hold for 10s), so there is that. Other than this I love this beast!

I thought the crafty had to be at 20% charge before you could use it plugged in?
 
Stinky,

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
I thought the crafty had to be at 20% charge before you could use it plugged in?

It does. The Crafty draws 27W at full bore, and the charger only gives it 10W. With the Mighty, the charger is 36W, and the heater is 30W (I believe, without looking it up).
 
Roth,

VegNVape

Increase the Peace
Company Rep
Hey all :)

I've been enjoying getting to know this lovely little device rather well over the past couple of weeks. One point of note is indeed that my Mighty doesn't heat up at all when the battery is virtually dead - as mentioned by someone earlier on in the thread. It seems to need quite a bit of charge, perhaps 20%. It has power but no heating. The manual does say the vaporizer can be operated when the batteries are completely discharged. I'm sure they don't consider merely powering on, operation. I am wondering if it is a fault with the unit.

Anyone else had this experience?
:peace:
 
Last edited:

olysh pops

Well-Known Member
Hi

Here are few posts (or part of) giving techniques, advices or tricks for Crafty and Mighty, coming from differents users. It's not exhaustive; maybe it can helps ;)

I have absolutely not participate to one single post listed below...and don't get the Mighty yet...I did this as a reminder and only share it.

Thanks to all contributers (sorry if your pseudo is missing*).

- Auto shutoff :
Hitting it resets the clock when it reaches setpoint. So it is a minute of inactivity that turns it off.

- Bypass the battery :
So you're not actually bypassing the battery when you use the Mighty plugged in, right? I know that's true for the Crafty, but I was wondering if the Mighty ran off AC power when plugged in. Seems like that's not the case. (THX letter never sent)

- Cleaning technique :
As I recall the book recommends using Alcohol (ethyl) as a cleaning solvent, but don't soak it for more than 1 hour because plastic can discolor and turn brittle. It alternatively recommends using warm water with wash-up liquid, if not alcohol solvent. (THX Bill Densoyle)

- Cleaning cooling chamber :
I've been popping the cooling unit apart into its constituent pieces, swabbing each down with a q-tip/pipe cleaner soaked in ethanol to remove the major debris, and then dunking all of the pieces in ethanol. S&B recommends soaking for less than an hour, as Bill mentioned, but in my experience the whole thing is clean after soaking for only a couple of minutes.(THX philosopher). Then I rinse in cool water and let dry then reassemble.

- Cleaning herb chamber :
1. Brush out with included tool
2. Use warm water and/or iso alcohol applied to a q-tip and gently wipe the surfaces of the herb chamber including the screen. *Take Caution and do NOT use an excessive amount of water or alcohol when cleaning.*
3. Dry any excess moisture with a clean soft cloth
4. Done

- Disassemble :
A pre heat and some dry puffing ( or not so dry, lol) will warm up the resin and seals to make it easier to pull apart, just make sure you let it cool a tad before grabbing the screen area to pull apart. ()
I've found that it is much easier to separate chamber part if you do the following: Slide back the lock, push down on the small button at the end of the lock - this pushes the bottom of the cooling unit off the top without all of the pulling. Much easier and feels safer to me. (THX Vape4ever)

- Efficiency :
The efficiency of the unit goes down dramatically if you don't keep it clean.

- Hasch :
I either put some hash in-between layers of weed or in-between a halved oil pad. Worked really well. Make sure to use really small pieces. I vape it at max temp because I feel like I get the most vapor this way.

- Keep it clean :
I Fill the bowl half full and use the liquid pad on top on the load. This way nothing goes through the top screen but sweet tasty vapor (THX Gonzo)

- Large clouds :
I decided to just go all out and use the methods you fine folks here shared. Cleaned out the oil and material from cooling chamber, removed the original screen from the mouthpiece and cut down a cooling pad to fit in the screens place nicely. Now I get really large clouds of vapor (no more filtering my vapor through the material clog on the high-way to the mouthpiece ;)..), and I can tell when its finally finished. Now I just hope this liquid pad "screen" will do the job and keep most of the material out of the cooling chamber and after a bit I can just pop that screen out, clean it or vaporize whats in there.

- Nice Hits :
I've been experimenting with filling the bowl halfway and using the concentrate pad to take up the rest of the space. I don't have a scale currently but I can tell you what looks like the bowl have filled to me is exactly one packed UD nylon stem. This method with the concentrate pad and the vape set at 178c is producing very nice hits with great flavor. I am getting about 5-6 really nice hits (Or IMO what are nice hit) and the bowl is spent. (THX Gonzo).

- Less Odor :

Manage the arc of odor with temperature and draw. In other words I power down the unit right when it hits the targeted temp and then I suck it dry. (That sounded weird) Usually about 2-3 very long draws and right into a zippered pouch it goes. In short it is as manageable as the Pax which I consider stealthy enough.
I would recommend not charging with herb in the chamber. That definately violates my odor code.

- Oil and concentrate :
Use them in sandwich between herbs

- Plug :
The Instructions For Use say to first plug the charger into the Mighty, then hook it up to the electrical mains or "outlet." At the end of charging, first unplug the Mighty from the charger, then unplug the charger from the outlet. (THX Bill Densoyle)

- Plastic taste :

Give it a couple run throughs with some ABV if you don't wanna waste the weed. The newness flava will dissipate. I can't recommend doing empty burn offs because that just heats up the metal/plastic/ceramic and boasts the flava.

- Reclaim :
I just used some tweezers to gently scrape the inside chamber and got a pea-sized blob, this was after maybe 10 bowls. I just sandwiched it between a layer of flower and the oil pad and had a session that lasted AGES.

- Remove/replace screen :

I pop the screen out from the inside using the orange tool that came with the Mighty. The first initial push will flex the stock screen a bit but you can adjust it back once it pops out. (THX redijedi808)

- Remove bottom screen :
someone pulled it out with a tool and replaced it .
he said it's easy to do so but leaves some scratches from the screen in the chamber....

- Small loads :

S&B recommend putting the liquid pad over small loads. (THX Bill Densoyle)
" So I decided to poke out the screen on the cooling/MP unit and put the SS liquid pad in its place. Took a little bit of stuffing but it held surprisingly well. Also prevent debris from getting past the oven because of the pad" (THX NickDlow). Don't cratch the sides of the oven the way you paced the oil pad !

- Stirring :
No stirring required

- Take care mouthpiece :
This is the plastic part, above the filling chamber on the power button side, that the cooling unit attaches to. So putting excess weight on the mouthpiece will be a no-no moving forward. Also, I wont be putting on the cooling unit backwards any more. When you do this you can turn the cooling unit farther than normal which results in more pressure being placed on those points. Also, I will not be securing the filling aid as tightly as before either.

- Take care when cleaning :
Do not clean the filling aid with ISO, it fucks it up. Also, if you wash all of your cooling unit parts together and you lose an o-ring, check inside the mouthpiece.

- Take care Hologram :
I removed the hologram slide the first time...never again!
Not sure why they say to do it in the manual, much more of a pain then it's worth. I found it quite difficult to get on/off.



There are surely other to remember...

Please tell me if you see error as I can make adjustments.

* Sorry if your pseudo is missing I did not think to copy pseudos when I began this :doh:
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Hi

Here are few posts (or part of) giving techniques, advices or tricks for Crafty and Mighty, coming from differents users. It's not exhaustive; maybe it can helps ;)

I have absolutely not participate to one single post listed below...and don't get the Mighty yet...I did this as a reminder and only share it.

Thanks to all contributers (sorry if your pseudo is missing*).

- Auto shutoff :
Hitting it resets the clock when it reaches setpoint. So it is a minute of inactivity that turns it off.

- Bypass the battery :
So you're not actually bypassing the battery when you use the Mighty plugged in, right? I know that's true for the Crafty, but I was wondering if the Mighty ran off AC power when plugged in. Seems like that's not the case. (THX letter never sent)

- Cleaning technique :
As I recall the book recommends using Alcohol (ethyl) as a cleaning solvent, but don't soak it for more than 1 hour because plastic can discolor and turn brittle. It alternatively recommends using warm water with wash-up liquid, if not alcohol solvent. (THX Bill Densoyle)

- Cleaning cooling chamber :
I've been popping the cooling unit apart into its constituent pieces, swabbing each down with a q-tip/pipe cleaner soaked in ethanol to remove the major debris, and then dunking all of the pieces in ethanol. S&B recommends soaking for less than an hour, as Bill mentioned, but in my experience the whole thing is clean after soaking for only a couple of minutes.(THX philosopher). Then I rinse in cool water and let dry then reassemble.

- Cleaning herb chamber :
1. Brush out with included tool
2. Use warm water and/or iso alcohol applied to a q-tip and gently wipe the surfaces of the herb chamber including the screen. *Take Caution and do NOT use an excessive amount of water or alcohol when cleaning.*
3. Dry any excess moisture with a clean soft cloth
4. Done

- Disassemble :
A pre heat and some dry puffing ( or not so dry, lol) will warm up the resin and seals to make it easier to pull apart, just make sure you let it cool a tad before grabbing the screen area to pull apart. ()
I've found that it is much easier to separate chamber part if you do the following: Slide back the lock, push down on the small button at the end of the lock - this pushes the bottom of the cooling unit off the top without all of the pulling. Much easier and feels safer to me. (THX Vape4ever)

- Efficiency :
The efficiency of the unit goes down dramatically if you don't keep it clean.

- Hasch :
I either put some hash in-between layers of weed or in-between a halved oil pad. Worked really well. Make sure to use really small pieces. I vape it at max temp because I feel like I get the most vapor this way.

- Keep it clean :
I Fill the bowl half full and use the liquid pad on top on the load. This way nothing goes through the top screen but sweet tasty vapor (THX Gonzo)

- Large clouds :
I decided to just go all out and use the methods you fine folks here shared. Cleaned out the oil and material from cooling chamber, removed the original screen from the mouthpiece and cut down a cooling pad to fit in the screens place nicely. Now I get really large clouds of vapor (no more filtering my vapor through the material clog on the high-way to the mouthpiece ;)..), and I can tell when its finally finished. Now I just hope this liquid pad "screen" will do the job and keep most of the material out of the cooling chamber and after a bit I can just pop that screen out, clean it or vaporize whats in there.

- Nice Hits :
I've been experimenting with filling the bowl halfway and using the concentrate pad to take up the rest of the space. I don't have a scale currently but I can tell you what looks like the bowl have filled to me is exactly one packed UD nylon stem. This method with the concentrate pad and the vape set at 178c is producing very nice hits with great flavor. I am getting about 5-6 really nice hits (Or IMO what are nice hit) and the bowl is spent. (THX Gonzo).

- Less Odor :

Manage the arc of odor with temperature and draw. In other words I power down the unit right when it hits the targeted temp and then I suck it dry. (That sounded weird) Usually about 2-3 very long draws and right into a zippered pouch it goes. In short it is as manageable as the Pax which I consider stealthy enough.
I would recommend not charging with herb in the chamber. That definately violates my odor code.

- Oil and concentrate :
Use them in sandwich between herbs

- Plug :
The Instructions For Use say to first plug the charger into the Mighty, then hook it up to the electrical mains or "outlet." At the end of charging, first unplug the Mighty from the charger, then unplug the charger from the outlet. (THX Bill Densoyle)

- Plastic taste :

Give it a couple run throughs with some ABV if you don't wanna waste the weed. The newness flava will dissipate. I can't recommend doing empty burn offs because that just heats up the metal/plastic/ceramic and boasts the flava.

- Reclaim :
I just used some tweezers to gently scrape the inside chamber and got a pea-sized blob, this was after maybe 10 bowls. I just sandwiched it between a layer of flower and the oil pad and had a session that lasted AGES.

- Remove/replace screen :

I pop the screen out from the inside using the orange tool that came with the Mighty. The first initial push will flex the stock screen a bit but you can adjust it back once it pops out. (THX redijedi808)

- Remove bottom screen :
someone pulled it out with a tool and replaced it .
he said it's easy to do so but leaves some scratches from the screen in the chamber....

- Small loads :

S&B recommend putting the liquid pad over small loads. (THX Bill Densoyle)
" So I decided to poke out the screen on the cooling/MP unit and put the SS liquid pad in its place. Took a little bit of stuffing but it held surprisingly well. Also prevent debris from getting past the oven because of the pad" (THX NickDlow). Don't cratch the sides of the oven the way you paced the oil pad !

- Stirring :
No stirring required

- Take care mouthpiece :
This is the plastic part, above the filling chamber on the power button side, that the cooling unit attaches to. So putting excess weight on the mouthpiece will be a no-no moving forward. Also, I wont be putting on the cooling unit backwards any more. When you do this you can turn the cooling unit farther than normal which results in more pressure being placed on those points. Also, I will not be securing the filling aid as tightly as before either.

- Take care when cleaning :
Do not clean the filling aid with ISO, it fucks it up. Also, if you wash all of your cooling unit parts together and you lose an o-ring, check inside the mouthpiece.

- Take care Hologram :
I removed the hologram slide the first time...never again!
Not sure why they say to do it in the manual, much more of a pain then it's worth. I found it quite difficult to get on/off.



There are surely other to remember...

Please tell me if you see error as I can make adjustments.

* Sorry if your pseudo is missing I did not think to copy pseudos when I began this :doh:

Thanks for the summary. I know how much work this is so I almost hate to ask you to do it again. We've just started a Best Of sub-forum, and I invite you to read the thread How the "Best Of" threads work. Then, if you feel up to it, you can simply post the links as nominations for the Best Of the Mighty thread (which doesn't exist yet).
 
pakalolo,

tdriver

Well-Known Member
why not do what others do in other forum with technical info and hints. they just put everything in the first post,
or the moderators squeeze a new post before the first one with just that info.
this way anyone just need to read the first post in the "dedicated vaporizer thread".
 
tdriver,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
why not do what others do in other forum with technical info and hints. they just put everything in the first post,
or the moderators squeeze a new post before the first one with just that info.
this way anyone just need to read the first post in the "dedicated vaporizer thread".
Squeezing in a new post doesn't work with the forum's software (as I learned in a painful lesson today while testing stuff out).

The OP can be edited, but I think the "Best Of" thread is a better tool for a concise rundown of a particular vape. Perhaps we can insert an edit in the OP with a link that can direct members to the abridged "Best Of" thread, though.

:peace:
 
Stu,

majher

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone question! When i charge my mighty full and unplug i have 6 bars. I then go through a bunch of bowls and it stays at 6 bars. Once the battery is done it immediately falls to 1 bar and then none pretty quick after. I've kind of gotten used to it by counting my bowls per charge but it would be awesome if it worked by showing me the actual amount. Any suggestions?
 
majher,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Any suggestions?
I just had a fantastic experience with S&B warranty service. Follow the instructions on their website, write a nice letter, and I bet you get a whole new kit for free under warranty. Turn around was quick, one day, and since you just send in the base you get to keep all the accessories and get new ones.

screenshot_2014_12_11_at_07_37_54.jpg
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
why not do what others do in other forum with technical info and hints. they just put everything in the first post,
or the moderators squeeze a new post before the first one with just that info.
this way anyone just need to read the first post in the "dedicated vaporizer thread".

Because it doesn't work if you have a thread like this one, let alone one the size of the Solo thread or the MFLB thread. I've only selected posts from the first 150 pages of the MFLB thread (it's currently 994 pages long) and there are already 90 "Best Of" posts. The software limits posts to 10,000 characters anyway. We'll probably use @Stu's suggestion to insert a link to the Best Of thread in the first post.
 
pakalolo,
  • Like
Reactions: scottg402

adam_baumm

Well-Known Member
Hi all. Question? Anyone notice they have stratches on the inside of their oven, I have a couple, think mine are from the brush as they are at the bottom. Any remarks? Will it become a problem? ........ They may be resin as they are dark, but I scrubbed with Iso and still there.
 
adam_baumm,

olysh pops

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the summary. I know how much work this is so I almost hate to ask you to do it again. We've just started a Best Of sub-forum, and I invite you to read the thread How the "Best Of" threads work. Then, if you feel up to it, you can simply post the links as nominations for the Best Of the Mighty thread (which doesn't exist yet).

You are welcome. Best Of sub-forum is a great idea.
But sorry, english is not my native tong, I am still using a dictionary to read these forum :freak:
I know the way to follow for next thread :tup:
 
Last edited:

redijedi808

Well-Known Member
Hi all. Question? Anyone notice they have stratches on the inside of their oven, I have a couple, think mine are from the brush as they are at the bottom. Any remarks? Will it become a problem? ........ They may be resin as they are dark, but I scrubbed with Iso and still there.
Yup, I have a minor case of OCD and love cleaning. I cleaned the screen for the bowl and once I got it out, scratches in the bowl. Got a lot more when putting it back in.

Before, I tried using 91% ISO to clean the bowl but the residue remained. After I saw the scratches on the bowl after reinserting the screen, I figure its impossible to keep the bowl scratch free unless you never take out the screen for the bowl.

Well, I used the same cleaning method for the Pax in which I now use 000 steel wool to clean the bowl. It does leave fine scratches but the screen is far more abrasive than the steel wool. The steel wool gets the bowl spotless. I just make sure I don't rub the plastic or oven area.

Time will tell if this messes anything up but I truly doubt it...
 

Stinky

Well-Known Member
I got a reply from my retailer, Australianvaporizers.com.au, who confirmed that there are known issues with the LCD screen and heating ability with the Mighty. They told me that Storz and Bickel are currently investigating the issue and that the retailer is waiting to hear back from them.

I was offered a refund but I would have to post the unit back to a state where you go to jail for using cannabis so this is not an option.
 

canj00digit?

All my days in a daze...
I was offered a refund but I would have to post the unit back to a state where you go to jail for using cannabis so this is not an option.

I have posted a dead vape back to AustralianVaporizers, no problems whatsoever.
I wouldn't even blink doing the same again.
Just my experience and opinion. :)
 

Stinky

Well-Known Member
I have posted a dead vape back to AustralianVaporizers, no problems whatsoever.
I wouldn't even blink doing the same again.
Just my experience and opinion. :)

Unfortunately for me in my line of work this would not be possible. Plus once you mention cannabis they stop replying to you.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Unfortunately for me in my line of work this would not be possible. Plus once you mention cannabis they stop replying to you.
Yeah it happens with them, they totally know what it's for but want to distance themselves from it for legality purposes. Not to bug about your work but cant ya have someone you trust do it for you?
 

Stinky

Well-Known Member
Yeah it happens with them, they totally know what it's for but want to distance themselves from it for legality purposes. Not to bug about your work but cant ya have someone you trust do it for you?


I appreciate your attempt to help but I'd rather not ask my friends or colleagues to deal with illegal substances.

Totally not related to the above comment but in other news Dr Alex Wodak advised vapouriser use for cannabis users at an Australian conference on the weekend.

We now have the big guns on our side :)
 
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