E-Nano from Epickai
happy 6000th post.
broke my d022!
love my nano with my sov stemlin but should get something smaller to preserve more flavor.
CrimsonKing
The Destroyer Of Worlds
Hey guys LONG time lurker finally decided to join the conversation hey everyone. Anyway after much research and debate I am going to be taking the plunge and picking up an e-nano (I know Andy is waiting on heating elements and I won't get it for a while that's what I get for waiting to long 
). I was planning on using the send your own wood option cause that is awesome I have a couple of chunks of Brazilian Rosewood (yes I said a couple
) I have been saving forever to find something worthy to use them for, about the perfect size to give life to a new e-nano. However over in @Snappo exotic thread he mentioned that wood for the nano needed to be kiln dried and my heart sank, this stuff has not been in a kiln but has been air drying in the proper conditions since sometime in the early 60's and has reached equilibrium at the 8-10% moisture content long ago. So @ACE OF VAPE or anyone who knows for sure / has sent in a hunk of their own wood. Does it absolutely have to be kiln dried? if so why cracking concerns? I'll have to hunt down a pretty hunk of teak if has to be dried I guess
tl;dl for the send your own wood does it need to be kiln dried if you have a properly air dried 3-5 year + piece at equal to or less than 11% moisture content?
). I was planning on using the send your own wood option cause that is awesome I have a couple of chunks of Brazilian Rosewood (yes I said a couple) I have been saving forever to find something worthy to use them for, about the perfect size to give life to a new e-nano. However over in @Snappo exotic thread he mentioned that wood for the nano needed to be kiln dried and my heart sank, this stuff has not been in a kiln but has been air drying in the proper conditions since sometime in the early 60's and has reached equilibrium at the 8-10% moisture content long ago. So @ACE OF VAPE or anyone who knows for sure / has sent in a hunk of their own wood. Does it absolutely have to be kiln dried? if so why cracking concerns? I'll have to hunt down a pretty hunk of teak if has to be dried I guesstl;dl for the send your own wood does it need to be kiln dried if you have a properly air dried 3-5 year + piece at equal to or less than 11% moisture content?
Mr. Gweilo 420
Dude
Lol. I was honestly going to film myself smashing it into piecesWelcome to the site! Believe me, you're not the first to be frustrated with EV - just ask @Mr. Gweilo 420 about his first Nano - he wanted to HATE it because he was so pissed at EV. But the nano's performance changed his mind - it was worth the hassle!
I was also having a few battles with other companies at the time and my frustration spread to my E-nano order. However, at the time I didn't really realize that Andy was more or less a one man operation. I also honestly believe that the E-nano is the greatest vaporizer ever made (for me anyway). As soon as I got it I realized I could bear no bad feeling to the person who created the E-nano. It can be frustrating at times but trust me when I say it will be sorted out one way or another eventually. The only days when my E-nano has not seen use was when I was out of town on vacation. I also have purchased a second E-nano. Be patient, it will be worth it in the long-run 
Hey guys LONG time lurker finally decided to join the conversation hey everyone. Anyway after much research and debate I am going to be taking the plunge and picking up an e-nano (I know Andy is waiting on heating elements and I won't get it for a while that's what I get for waiting to long
tl;dl for the send your own wood does it need to be kiln dried if you have a properly air dried 3-5 year + piece at equal to or less than 11% moisture content?
Greetings!
Actually, I believe originally Andy said he preferred kiln dried wood. Several months later he stated it didn't NEED to be kiln dried as long as the moisture content was low enough. In either case - any wood you supply will not be covered against cracking in the warranty (manufacturing defects and electrical failures are covered, but cracked wood from your supply is never covered, even if it's kiln dried). My Afzelia Burl Nano has been a joy to handle - I was admiring the exotic grain pattern earlier tonight.
If you've conditioned the wood for THAT long and have a few spare pieces, I'd say send in a block and make yourself a beautiful custom vaporizer! If it doesn't start to crack within the first week of use, it shouldn't crack. It would be an awesome way to make use of a small bit of that gorgeous wood
Lol. I was honestly going to film myself smashing it into pieces
Yeah, it was pretty funny to read the whole drama unfold after the fact when I started researching the Nano
As I later posted in my thread, Andy advised that the wood needn't be kiln dried, but should be dimensionally stable at or below 11% moisture ...so your wood should be just fine. Enjoy!Hey guys LONG time lurker finally decided to join the conversation hey everyone. Anyway after much research and debate I am going to be taking the plunge and picking up an e-nano (I know Andy is waiting on heating elements and I won't get it for a while that's what I get for waiting to long
tl;dl for the send your own wood does it need to be kiln dried if you have a properly air dried 3-5 year + piece at equal to or less than 11% moisture content?
@Mr. Gweilo 420 I'm glad I got to hear a recap of your story I knew existed but haven't read that far back. Love how honest your were about it, even your own personal shortcomings. I recall initially bring really irritated with this community for really no good reason other than I had a frustrating time registering so I could ask a question and then was inpatient for my own stupid reasons that day. A few people here decided to not be jerks to me and I came around.
@Ratchett I'm more of an up and down "paint the fence" kind of guy when it comes to applying hard beeswax. But if you have a beeswax "crayon", you can get it to melt in a concave shape top fit the curves of the warm wood regardless of your particular favorite muscle memory exercise.
Also, I have received my $1 beeswax from eBay. From my experience rendering beeswax as a hobbyist beekeeper, this stuff is much nicer and cleaner than what i made myself. It has a pleasant, faint beehive smell that lets me know it was not too harshly treats or scorched in the rendering process, yet is very clean and pure. Believe me, fresh beeswax is the opposite of clean at the honey harvest byproduct stage. So... Hobbyist beekeeper approved stuff.
@Ratchett I'm more of an up and down "paint the fence" kind of guy when it comes to applying hard beeswax. But if you have a beeswax "crayon", you can get it to melt in a concave shape top fit the curves of the warm wood regardless of your particular favorite muscle memory exercise.
Also, I have received my $1 beeswax from eBay. From my experience rendering beeswax as a hobbyist beekeeper, this stuff is much nicer and cleaner than what i made myself. It has a pleasant, faint beehive smell that lets me know it was not too harshly treats or scorched in the rendering process, yet is very clean and pure. Believe me, fresh beeswax is the opposite of clean at the honey harvest byproduct stage. So... Hobbyist beekeeper approved stuff.
CrimsonKing
The Destroyer Of Worlds
Greetings!
Actually, I believe originally Andy said he preferred kiln dried wood. Several months later he stated it didn't NEED to be kiln dried as long as the moisture content was low enough. In either case - any wood you supply will not be covered against cracking in the warranty (manufacturing defects and electrical failures are covered, but cracked wood from your supply is never covered, even if it's kiln dried). My Afzelia Burl Nano has been a joy to handle - I was admiring the exotic grain pattern earlier tonight.
If you've conditioned the wood for THAT long and have a few spare pieces, I'd say send in a block and make yourself a beautiful custom vaporizer! If it doesn't start to crack within the first week of use, it shouldn't crack. It would be an awesome way to make use of a small bit of that gorgeous wood
Yeah, it was pretty funny to read the whole drama unfold after the fact when I started researching the Nano
Thanks for the quick replies guys, yeah I haven't personally been conditioning it that long any real Brazilian rosewood you see is generally very old they banned its export in the 1960's and besides a limited supply that came in during the 90's and early 2000's (it was all harvested from trunks of trees that had been previously cut down) but you could not get your hands on pieces bigger than pool cue blanks so if its real BR its generally pretty damn old the few pieces I have I believe were end cuts from neck blanks for guitars that I saved from the scrap pile.
Again thanks for the quick reply I read through most of your thread but did skip around a little so I must have missed that, and although I am more a fan of the dark hard and hart woods you do find some beautiful burl specimens.
Hope to see your Brazillian rosewood nano soon @CrimsonKing . I'm sure that will be stunning 
for you @vaplen it looks and feels much nicer on the outside. i will have to work some into the rings cut out on top. i let my nano run 24.7 and have been getting very concerned about how dry and grainy it feels.... hopefully this $.99 beeswax will keep my nano healthy for a long time!
for you @vaplen it looks and feels much nicer on the outside. i will have to work some into the rings cut out on top. i let my nano run 24.7 and have been getting very concerned about how dry and grainy it feels.... hopefully this $.99 beeswax will keep my nano healthy for a long time!
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I had a few vaporizers however the NANO is tiny and perfect.Lol. I was honestly going to film myself smashing it into pieces
This little wooden can is so simple, beautiful, efficient, and powerful, that anything larger or more complicated has some serious explaining to do.
I can blow lightly onto the heater and measure the air temperature with my upper lip to determine if it is too cold, the right temp for flowers or concentrates, or hot enough that it might scorch the top layer if I inhale too slowly.
No microprocessor controlled digital display or colored blinking array of LED's or even a wireless Bluetooth Internet connected smartphone app can give me that sort of real and instantaneous direct experiential feedback I get with this device and a little puff of air across my lip.
hafalump
Well-Known Member
Beam me up Scotty nano in the house warming up
Ok, I am starting at 7 and getting good pulls, but cant get every thing out of there.
ABV is blonde, finished at 10, not as dark as it gets in the FF.
Will need to play around a bit more. Any tips?
Ok, I am starting at 7 and getting good pulls, but cant get every thing out of there.
ABV is blonde, finished at 10, not as dark as it gets in the FF.
Will need to play around a bit more. Any tips?
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Stir
olysh pops
Well-Known Member
Hi
I received my new 18 mm water pipe adaptater from EpicVape this morning. Happy to use My nano again
When I put wpa on water pipe I can feel, see and hear that adaptater is moving a bit from one side to the other. Trying with another water pipe give the same play at the same place.
Here is a video.
I can not estimate the loss of draught because I do not have another model of wpa. It's not huge, sure.
Unfortunately I do not have concentrate (BHO) to test, it could be problematic to vaporize it without Nano's full power.
In my order there was 14mm water pipe adaptater too, which does not have same issue.
Did you ever meet this kind of issue with 18mm water pipe adaptater ? If yes what did you do ? If no your suggestion are welcome
I received my new 18 mm water pipe adaptater from EpicVape this morning. Happy to use My nano again
When I put wpa on water pipe I can feel, see and hear that adaptater is moving a bit from one side to the other. Trying with another water pipe give the same play at the same place.
Here is a video.
I can not estimate the loss of draught because I do not have another model of wpa. It's not huge, sure.
Unfortunately I do not have concentrate (BHO) to test, it could be problematic to vaporize it without Nano's full power.
In my order there was 14mm water pipe adaptater too, which does not have same issue.
Did you ever meet this kind of issue with 18mm water pipe adaptater ? If yes what did you do ? If no your suggestion are welcome
How far is your screen and are you using a gong or a stem? I can turn a bowl super dark brown with one big pull on 7 so I would think you need to change something in your setup or your nano is somehow underpowered.
I hope you are stirring too
And just so you know it should warm for ~15 minutes before you start using it. just in case youre plugging it in and expecting instant hits. once its warmed up level 7 should be kicking your ass and turning the town dark brown
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When you say "fully warm" what do you mean - is the wood on the exterior of the Nano warm to the touch? It should feel like a nice handwarmer - around 120F according to my no-contact thermometer.
Use the metal E-Pik to measure the depth of your basket screen - The notched part of the pik should rest on the glass stem, and the bottom of the pick should touch the flat part of the basket screen. At this depth, you should be getting nice clouds from 0.1g of herb.
Also, for bigger clouds - let the glass stem "heat soak" before you start hitting it - Install the glass, let it sit for 20-30 seconds, then start hitting it.
Don't worry, you're not the first to be "underwhelmed" by the Nano at first.
From all the talk on this forum, I was rather unimpressed the first day of use. But later that night when I adjusted the screen depth and let the log heat up longer..... 
hafalump
Well-Known Member
Does Anyone have a gun to measure the temp I should be getting on 10? I can borrow one soon
I think it is an inrared heat detector. I have a warm FF, do people know of cool nanos?
Or perhaps it's the dial? I guess I will keep it, with the hassle of exchange and all, but forget
about concentrates.
I think it is an inrared heat detector. I have a warm FF, do people know of cool nanos?
Or perhaps it's the dial? I guess I will keep it, with the hassle of exchange and all, but forget
about concentrates.
CrimsonKing
The Destroyer Of Worlds
When the dial is turned all the way down / off is it at 0-1? It is possible that the knob on the dimmer was incorrectly installed when it was made maybe.
