Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

can someone w. both rods for the SR74 please chime in..

please tell me the 3.7 and 7.4 rods for the sr74 look exactly alike and aren't actually black or white ??

if not then my order was also messed up & I was shipped a white rod when my receipt clearly says I ordered the black 3.7 rod...

k3nd4l said:

can someone w. both rods for the SR74 please chime in..

please tell me the 3.7 and 7.4 rods for the sr74 look exactly alike and aren't actually black or white ??

if not then my order was also messed up & I was shipped a white rod when my receipt clearly says I ordered the black 3.7 rod...

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They almost look exactly the same. The little band at the bottom is where you will see the black or white. If you post a pic I will tell you what you have-

k3nd4l said:

can someone w. both rods for the SR74 please chime in..

please tell me the 3.7 and 7.4 rods for the sr74 look exactly alike and aren't actually black or white ??

if not then my order was also messed up & I was shipped a white rod when my receipt clearly says I ordered the black 3.7 rod...

Click to expand...

The difference is between the contact bands. The white is white between the contacts. The 3.7v "black" rod refers to a black stripe between the contact bands.

DaNi_DuB said:

The spool is the ti wire, the pre cut wires are non res. Wrap the ti 3 times around the wick (for 3.7 not sure about 7.4), leave enough on the ends to poke through the holes in the ceramic cup, & use the crimps to connect the non res wires. Follow the rest of the steps on @DieHard 's tutorial & you're good to go. Unfortunately (mostly due to my nonsensical refusal to ask for help) this was close to a $30 learning lesson for me.

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What page is his rebuild tutorial?

In my sig

chronickiller7 said:

Just got my kiss cart repair kit. Which wire is used to wrap around the coil, the one on the spool? Or the other stuff? Am I supposed to use both some how?

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I'm pretty unsatisfied with the complete lack of directions or help with the rebuild kits. I have pretty much wasted all of the material and haven't made a good cart yet. Trial and error sucks. I can tell you theoretically how it is supposed to work. The wire on the spool is the part you wrap around the wick, the straight wires are non conductive so they do not heat up. You use the tiny gold couplers to connect the two wires right under the cup, and then the non conductive wires connect to the bottom of the KISS cart. I would be very interested in buying pre-made replacement coils, that have already been wrapped around the coil, with non conductive wire lasered onto the ends. Then I could just remove the old coil, insert the new one and be on my way. I'm pretty handy and I feel like I need 4 tiny hands to have any chance of making a cart. I would not recommend the repair kit unless you've already done this sort of thing (which I have) and even then I am not going to waste my money again.

@DieHard @Andy this is the "3.7 sr74 black rod" I received

ED421 said:

I'm pretty unsatisfied with the complete lack of directions or help with the rebuild kits. I have pretty much wasted all of the material and haven't made a good cart yet. Trial and error sucks. I can tell you theoretically how it is supposed to work. The wire on the spool is the part you wrap around the wick, the straight wires are non conductive so they do not heat up. You use the tiny gold couplers to connect the two wires right under the cup, and then the non conductive wires connect to the bottom of the KISS cart. I would be very interested in buying pre-made replacement coils, that have already been wrapped around the coil, with non conductive wire lasered onto the ends. Then I could just remove the old coil, insert the new one and be on my way. I'm pretty handy and I feel like I need 4 tiny hands to have any chance of making a cart. I would not recommend the repair kit unless you've already done this sort of thing (which I have) and even then I am not going to waste my money again.

Click to expand...

Done a lot of small circuit/soldering projects... get one of those clip trees with the magnifying glass. Its way easier with everything suspended without your effort. I havent tried rebuilding my cart yet but am looking forward to it...

ED421 said:

I'm pretty unsatisfied with the complete lack of directions or help with the rebuild kits. I have pretty much wasted all of the material and haven't made a good cart yet. Trial and error sucks. I can tell you theoretically how it is supposed to work. The wire on the spool is the part you wrap around the wick, the straight wires are non conductive so they do not heat up. You use the tiny gold couplers to connect the two wires right under the cup, and then the non conductive wires connect to the bottom of the KISS cart. I would be very interested in buying pre-made replacement coils, that have already been wrapped around the coil, with non conductive wire lasered onto the ends. Then I could just remove the old coil, insert the new one and be on my way. I'm pretty handy and I feel like I need 4 tiny hands to have any chance of making a cart. I would not recommend the repair kit unless you've already done this sort of thing (which I have) and even then I am not going to waste my money again.

Click to expand...

IMO, the taste isn't worth the hassle of rebuilding a Ti cart (unless those laser welded wires come to fruition). NiChrome carts are easy, still taste better than most other carts, & it's much cheaper to buy the supplies to rebuild them. Although if I had some instructions, it might not have been that much of a hassle.

Just finished the learning curve for the kiss gr2 carts. With the dark ceramic, 5 second button pulses vs 3 second for the light ceramic. I am planning to use my Persei and essential oil carts for the first time. I have seen many videos, using the funnel and heating the upper half of the EO cartridge. For the 2.4 EO cart, should I use my omicron lite or Persei (for the moment, I only have the 2 18350s)? I assume using the 7.4 from Persei might burn my concentrates or will I be getting nice thick hits?

After putting in all the material in the EO cart, I saw Gary suck on the bottom. Does that help?

k3nd4l said:

@DieHard @Andy this is the "3.7 sr74 black rod" I received

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That appears to be a white 7.4v rod. Shown here is a white between 2 blacks.

DieHard said:

That appears to be a white 7.4v rod. Shown here is a white between 2 blacks.

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GREAT. so not only was i shipped an unfinished ss tube i was also shipped the wrong heating rod. what a shitty order experience...

@THC SCIENTIFIC another problem with my order now..

Is there a new Okeanos coming out?

Does the one on sale for $79.99 have splash guard?

I'm assuming water filtration won't hurt with the Persei

How do I avoid getting oil on the other side of the top chamber piece? This happened both with the airflow ring and without. It is also clogged (can't pull air through), unless I warm it up.

chronickiller7 said:

How do I avoid getting oil on the other side of the top chamber piece? This happened both with the airflow ring and without. It is also clogged (can't pull air through), unless I warm it up.

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That's the most important learning curve to overcome imo. It's all about taking 15 second cool down hits. If it clogs you need to do longer cool downs. I know it can be frustrating at first but so worth it if you just hang in there.

chronickiller7 said:

How do I avoid getting oil on the other side of the top chamber piece? This happened both with the airflow ring and without. It is also clogged (can't pull air through), unless I warm it up.

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The best way to avoid this IMO is with cool-down hits without the button pressed to cool your oil. If the oil is runny at room temp this will be difficult. I find that chain-hitting the Herc almost always results in oil in The reclaim chamber. Also heat from carrying in a pocket of left in a hot car can do it too.

I was hitting it multiple times in a row, without much cooling. Also noticed how hot this thing can get! I'm going to vape whats in here and then iso clean the whole thing. Should I put the airflow ring back on? My oil is an oily-wax, but becomes an amber/red oil when melted in the cart. Maybe these pics will help.

*Also, how do I remove the coil?

DieHard said:

The best way to avoid this IMO is with cool-down hits without the button pressed to cool your oil. If the oil is runny at room temp this will be difficult. I find that chain-hitting the Herc almost always results in oil in The reclaim chamber. Also heat from carrying in a pocket of left in a hot car can do it too.

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i agree wholeheartedly with this....once you start chainvaping away on a nice long session even with cooldown hits i tend to get at least some errl in my reclaim chamber. these days if i intend to have a massive session to the dome i put much less oil in the herc. at higher dab sized hits less feels like more, both for flavor and for ease of cleaning later as well as the ease of the draw while i'm sipping.

I find that shatter with 1 coil works really well, especially when it is shatter that turns back to solid form at room temp. Much less leaks and easier to load.
If you really can't find something to remove the coils by pulling on the middle, try removing the rod and then the coils.
Pulsing the button instead of holding it down while hitting it helps and of course the vital cool-down hits. Waiting ~20 seconds between each hit is probably ideal for that wax consistency to achieve the least leaks.

I find that any "waiting" is what leads to leaking. Do cool down pulls. Don't give the oil a chance to leak into the chamber. Most people I have seen that cause the oil to leak, don't let off the button early enough.

If you want a 10 second hit hold the button for 5 seconds. (OK with a -71 you might not be "Holding" the button LOL.) Continue drawing for at least say... 15 seconds AFTER you let off the button. Let the vapor get wispy and draw air into your lungs through the herc for a little bit after it's not putting out vapor. It's airflow through the Herc that cools it down. So if you take your hit with only 5 seconds "off the button" , and then hold it in that hit, well the Herc is hot, the oil inside is hot; you let the Herc just chill there w/no airflow, it's going to leak into the lower chamber.

After you take your hit. Do you want another one? Take it- the airflow through the herc keeps the oil "up." But when you are done, you need to draw air through the Herc, corresponding to how hot you got the thing during operation. It's easy to understand that the oil leaks through the 3 air inlet holes in the bottom of the coil chamber when the Herc is hot so draw air through it to cool it down! It's easy to know when it's cool enough if you just pull off the PTFE shield and touch the metal. After a bit of use, you won't need to pull the shield off.

A "Clogged" Hercules is a sure-fire sign that you aren't doing proper cool down draws. You're letting the warm oil leak through the air inlet holes and solidify there.

Once I fully understood how much cool down draws kept the oil up top, I do not need to crack open my herc for MONTHS. Just keep tossin in half grams.

*Edit the easiest way to remove the coil is to get the Herc fully warmed up by using it. Run it out of oil but while it's warm disassemble it and push the Ceramic rod through. Then take a small pokey tool or dabber from the bottom and gently push the inside of the donut up. I've messed up 2 Ti coils by trying to pick them out from the top / trying to force them up when the Herc was too cold. A heat gun can help warm everything up and will make moving the coil MUCH easier.

SamuraiSam said:

I find that any "waiting" is what leads to leaking. Do cool down pulls. Don't give the oil a chance to leak into the chamber. Most people I have seen that cause the oil to leak, don't let off the button early enough.

If you want a 10 second hit hold the button for 5 seconds. Continue drawing for at least 20 seconds AFTER you let off the button. It's airflow through the Herc that cools it down. So if you take your hit with only 5 seconds "off the button" , and then hold it in that hit, well the Herc is hot, the oil inside is hot; you let the Herc just chill there w/no airflow, it's going to leak into the lower chamber.

After you take your hit. Do you want another one? Take it- the airflow through the herc keeps the oil "up." But when you are done, you need to draw air through the Herc, corresponding to how hot you got the thing during operation. It's easy to understand that the oil leaks through the 3 air inlet holes in the bottom of the coil chamber when the Herc is hot so draw air through it to cool it down! It's easy to know when it's cool enough if you just pull off the PTFE shield and touch the metal. After a bit of use, you won't need to pull the shield off.

A "Clogged" Hercules is a sure-fire sign that you aren't doing proper cool down draws. You're letting the warm oil leak through the air inlet holes and solidify there.

Once I fully understood how much cool down draws kept the oil up top, I do not need to crack open my herc for MONTHS. Just keep tossin in half grams.

Click to expand...

Now just copy and paste that into the instructions please.

mixchu69 said:

Just finished the learning curve for the kiss gr2 carts. With the dark ceramic, 5 second button pulses vs 3 second for the light ceramic. I am planning to use my Persei and essential oil carts for the first time. I have seen many videos, using the funnel and heating the upper half of the EO cartridge. For the 2.4 EO cart, should I use my omicron lite or Persei (for the moment, I only have the 2 18350s)? I assume using the 7.4 from Persei might burn my concentrates or will I be getting nice thick hits?

After putting in all the material in the EO cart, I saw Gary suck on the bottom. Does that help?

Click to expand...

Afaik, the 2.4 ohm EO carts are really only for 3.7v

I had a friend burn out a persei top by trying to run 3.7 v kiss carts and 2.4ohm EO carts at 7.4v.

Burning out the cartridge I can see. I'm not sure why that would kill a top, though.

You'd need a 5 ohm cart for 7.4V. I prefer the 2.4ohm EO cart at 3.7v.

SamuraiSam said:

Burning out the cartridge I can see. I'm not sure why that would kill a top, though.

You'd need a 5 ohm cart for 7.4V. I prefer the 2.4ohm EO cart at 3.7v.

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I wasn't there, but he tried a few 3.7v carts (they too got fried), and his top melted...

Maybe it was just a coincidence?
Or like frying one of the carts made a short which then fried the top?

Hey @SamuraiSam. You say you toss in half grams into the herc. Is that all at once? Do you find the flavor to reduce towards the end of the load?