blamejane

Well-Known Member
Well, I thought they were there to keep you from burning yourself on the hot end. So I just cut them off.
But perhaps they are supposed to help steady the stem?
Doesn't seem to be a problem so far and looks better too.

~

Well if it's a stem steady-er then mine is too far up the glass. If it's just to keep fingers from burning then I guess it would depend on the individual.
 
blamejane,

herbalist33

Well-Known Member
I personally left the silicone where it was - more towards the heating element end - because I find it is useful for using the nano one handed (I use my thumb on the underside of the silicone), so if you were looking it would almost look like I'm sucking my thumb....

That's a heck of a description, I should really try to take a photo.... Hmmm, but first, a cloud
 
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Tweak

T\/\/34|<
I ask because I've seen many pics of the dry stems with the rubber grip located at the very bottom of the glass.

Are you referring to my image?
RbAwuhUs.jpg

I put it on the end to add an additional screen and Mouthpiece.

I would leave as is, the silicone is there to protect the user from heat and help stop your stem from breaking if you would drop it.
 
Tweak,

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
I noticed that the glass stem which came with my e-nano, has a silicone or rubber grip on it. it's about 1 inch up from the bottom of the glass. Is this the correct location? I ask because I've seen many pics of the dry stems with the rubber grip located at the very bottom of the glass. It makes me wonder if I'm possibly using it incorrectly (that it should be moved).

Can anyone confirm?
It's both a heat protector (since you can't tell which part of the stem is cool to the touch, or burning hot, just by looking at it), and a shock absorber for laying it down, and keeping it in is plastic tube without shaking so much.

You can move it to wherever you like, or remove it, but it definitely does help prevent nasty finger burns from ruining up an otherwise peaceful high lmao Nothing like touching searing glass, while high, in the dark, and possibly dropping the stem/unit out of reflex.
 

NickDlow

Log Hog
Well this sucks, I'm 400 miles away from my house and my new Exotic E-Nano has just arrived.:bang: At least she is safe in her box quietly waiting for me to wake her up n put that ass to work!! I can't wait. COME ON WEDNESDAY! Once I get home I'll be sure to show off my new girl to all of you guys n gals.
 

MuushuPork

Well-Known Member
So i ordered some ss wool. 316l fine from ebay. Any tips for when i get it? Just cut a chunk with reg. scissors and stick it in my gong? Do i need to iso wash for left overs? Any help (or link to a video guide maybe) is appreciated!!!
 
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vapordab

Medical+FC=Recreational
So i ordered some ss wool. 316l fine from ebay. Any tips for when i get it? Just cut a chunk with reg. scissors and stick it in my gong? Do i need to iso wash for left overs? Any help (or link to a video guide maybe) is appreciated!!!
I always cut the size portion with titanium kitchen shears, than torch lightly red hot with a torch one time, than soak in ISO for a few hours. Take it out and let it dry and you are good to go!

I should however note, that I use cheap grocery store stainless steel wool, the torching may not be necessary with the higher grade stuff.
 

blamejane

Well-Known Member
Well this sucks, I'm 400 miles away from my house and my new Exotic E-Nano has just arrived.:bang: At least she is safe in her box quietly waiting for me to wake her up n put that ass to work!! I can't wait. COME ON WEDNESDAY! Once I get home I'll be sure to show off my new girl to all of you guys n gals.

I'm sure Wednesday can't come soon enough! Anyway, looking forward to your pics...
 
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MuushuPork

Well-Known Member
I always cut the size portion with titanium kitchen shears, than torch lightly red hot with a torch one time, than soak in ISO for a few hours. Take it out and let it dry and you are good to go!

I should however note, that I use cheap grocery store stainless steel wool, the torching may not be necessary with the higher grade stuff.

I have some ginzu shears that come with a set im guessing they will do. Ill do the ISO but dont have a torch. Is the torch thing something you read about or just extra caution?
 
MuushuPork,

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
I should however note, that I use cheap grocery store stainless steel wool, the torching may not be necessary with the higher grade stuff.

What do you use? I bought some SS Sponges (coiled scouring pads) but didn't trust that they where safe to inhale @ high temps, so I scrapped the idea.

Maybe I'll give it another go.

@MuushuPork Do you have a link to the fine 316l SS wool?
 
Tweak,

ChippyMalone

Be here now.
Accessory Maker
I have some ginzu shears that come with a set im guessing they will do. Ill do the ISO but dont have a torch. Is the torch thing something you read about or just extra caution?
A standard lighter will produce enough heat to fry any manufacturing contaminants from the metal surface. I wouldn't buy anything just for this purpose.
 

MuushuPork

Well-Known Member
What do you use? I bought some SS Sponges (coiled scouring pads) but didn't trust that they where safe to inhale @ high temps, so I scrapped the idea.

Maybe I'll give it another go.

@MuushuPork Do you have a link to the fine 316l SS wool?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/310593550988

A standard lighter will produce enough heat to fry any manufacturing contaminants from the metal surface. I wouldn't buy anything just for this purpose.

Im sayin do you even need a flame at all if you ISO it??
 

wax

Active Member
I tried concentrates with the ss mesh I cut a bit of my herbie concentrate pad and stuck it in the enano gong. Didn't get any clouds with a.good sized amount, what am I doing wrong and how can I fix it
 

canj00digit?

All my days in a daze...

Yeah, that's the exact SS wool I use. Still have most of the same pack left 6mo later.


I tried concentrates with the ss mesh I cut a bit of my herbie concentrate pad and stuck it in the enano gong. Didn't get any clouds with a.good sized amount, what am I doing wrong and how can I fix it

From my experience the SS has to be rather tight in the gong. I always make it as tight as I can before it starts restricting airflow too much. And I always use 9 or 10 on the temp dial.

Once you get your set-up right it's an oil vapor beast.

Repost of an old vid I did earlier this year:

 

Cereal_MF

Green goes to brown, n that's what I stand for.
So say im preheated at a 9 for about an hour.. IF i turn down to a 6.5 how long do i really need to wait before the temp lowers itself? Not sure how this works, is it more or less instantly?
 

max

Out to lunch
So say im preheated at a 9 for about an hour..
How about 5 minutes instead? The other 55 won't really get you much. A unit sitting at vaping temp for an hour is going to be a little hotter than one that just reached the same temp, but it's really not a big deal.
IF i turn down to a 6.5 how long do i really need to wait before the temp lowers itself?
Another 5 min. would be more than enough. If you turn it up as high as 9 and you're impatient, just back off on the distance between heat and bowl while the temp is dropping.
 

vapordab

Medical+FC=Recreational
What do you use? I bought some SS Sponges (coiled scouring pads) but didn't trust that they where safe to inhale @ high temps, so I scrapped the idea.
This isnt what I use.Its actually more of a wire like mesh. I was paranoid at first, but they held up well enough to a torch test. I'm soon going to experiment with extremely fine SS screens, with many layers.
 
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MuushuPork

Well-Known Member
This isnt what I use.Its actually more of a wire like mesh. I was paranoid at first, but they held up well enough to a torch test. I'm soon going to experiment with extremely fine SS screens, with many layers.
Link to what you use or are considering using?
 
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ChippyMalone

Be here now.
Accessory Maker
If your trying to keep your nano in pristine condition, but aren't trying to break the bank: you should pick up a 1 oz bar of pure beeswax for .99$ free shipping! This will be enough to keep your nano shiny and conditioned for a long time!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORGANIC-Bee...-/281091634510?pt=Candles&hash=item41725df54e

Sq7lDCv.jpg

I'm a beekeeper and am using raw beeswax on my walnut model. Great stuff! As a PSA, I'd encourage anyone to seek out local beeswax from your friendly local beekeeper if you plan to use it for anything consumable (lotions, cosmetics, soaps, etc.) Commercially availabled wax for candlemaking or other workshop/Industrial use mostly comes from China and is known to be contaminated with a wide range of drugs/pesticides used by unethical beekeepers there. Google "honey laundering" and you'll probably never buy commercial grade grocery store honey again. I like to say" If you don't know the beekeeper, how do you know it's really honey?"

I also want to mention another beekeeping related wood treatment I'm considering for my E-Nano. Some beekeepers dip their hive boxes in liquid paraffin wax to prevent some diseases in the hive as well as long term weather protection . One thing about a beehive is that it is Hot inside. Even in the winter, the ball of bees can still be 95' inside. A high melting point paraffin or similar food safe wax might very well be an excellent high temperature preservative for our unusual devices which put wood through some serious heat cycling.

Edit: Perhaps a beswax/high temp paraffin blend. This would result in a hard block that would have to be applied to a heated E-Nano and allowed to soak in before wiping away excess. Most beeswax wood formulations have to use a solvent to soften the hard beeswax so it can be used at room temp. The fact that our wood is hot opens up interesting polish/preservative options that would not be possible at room temp with these waxes.
 
Last edited:

vapordab

Medical+FC=Recreational
I'm a beekeeper and am using raw beeswax on my walnut model. Great stuff! As a PSA, I'd encourage anyone to seek out local beeswax from your friendly local beekeeper if you plan to use it for anything consumable (lotions, cosmetics, soaps, etc.) Commercially availabled wax for candlemaking or other workshop/Industrial use mostly comes from China and is known to be contaminated with a wide range of drugs/pesticides used by unethical beekeepers there. Google "honey laundering" and you'll probably never buy commercial grade grocery store honey again. I like to say" If you don't know the beekeeper, how do you know it's really honey?"

I also want to mention another beekeeping related wood treatment I'm working on for my E-Nano. Some beekeepers dip their hive boxes in liquid paraffin wax to prevent some diseases in the hive as well as long term weather protection . One thing about a beehive is that it is Hot inside. Even in the winter, the ball of bees can still be 95' inside. A high melting point paraffin might very well be an excellent high temperature preservative for our unusual devices which put wood through some serious heat cycling,
Very cool. Good to know. In the description for this stuff however, it claims to be "organic" and "harvested in Pennsylvania" So I recon its safe to use stuff.

Edit: safe for our uses
 
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