Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A

spoutti

Well-Known Member
These are the computer fans I will buy to speed up purge time http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_130&item_id=073380.

They have an adapter for slow speed. im not sure if, and more importantly, why I will need it. But im happy they have it.

I will have them blow vertically on my pyrex plates like @farscaper said earlier. Now the challenge will be to build a frame to hold on top of the pyrex plate. I thought maybe cutting through a plastic container, maybe adapting some kind of storing racks. Having the fan in my hands would help designing.. Your ideas are welcome as well :)

Then the fun begins. I have 10/10 grade purple kush and mid grade purple kush to run. I will give them separate but identical qwet and note return differences. And then I will go for my 1st qwiso with the rest of the mid grade pk and compare. I hope I will like my qwiso results, its cheaper :haw:
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
These are the computer fans I will buy to speed up purge time http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_130&item_id=073380.

They have an adapter for slow speed. im not sure if, and more importantly, why I will need it. But im happy they have it.

I will have them blow vertically on my pyrex plates like @farscaper said earlier. Now the challenge will be to build a frame to hold on top of the pyrex plate. I thought maybe cutting through a plastic container, maybe adapting some kind of storing racks. Having the fan in my hands would help designing.. Your ideas are welcome as well :)

Then the fun begins. I have 10/10 grade purple kush and mid grade purple kush to run. I will give them separate but identical qwet and note return differences. And then I will go for my 1st qwiso with the rest of the mid grade pk and compare. I hope I will like my qwiso results, its cheaper :haw:
bamboo skewers laid across the top will support the fan fine... and upgrade to that could be chop sticks.

cheap and acquirable anywhere.

just use some trash bag ties to attach it to the frame of sticks so it doesn't vibrate itself off and into your evaporation plate.
 

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
So I think my last two runs are telling me I need a better method of temp control. In one run, the vac chamber drifted under the faucet and filled with water. And in my latest run, I put the chamber/slick sheet in the oven but failed to hit the button that confirms the temp setting (resulting in 350° instead of 170°). The oil read 190° by the time I pulled it out and was rapidly bubbling (after a 12 hr vac purge, so I definitely lost some terps).

Also a quick tangent about the slick sheet: worked great on the latest run but it ended up with a few tears, so I can't reuse it. I'd buy more if it was more durable, but it's not really worth it personally going through a $20 roll every 3-4 runs.

Anyways here's the oil I made:

3 g from 28 g of trim.
x98WJg5.png


Even though it's partially decarbed it still has decent taste. However this stuff is super sticky. Could winterizing it w/ a ethanol solution restore it to a more stable consistency?
 

NickDlow

Log Hog
If u go on eplastics.com they sell thicker ptfe sheets and the prices aren't to bad. Look up "virgin ptfe sheets" I'm experimenting with some but haven't had to to test them all. The slick sheet thickness is about .003". They sell thicker I'd look at .005" that's about the thickness of a piece of paper. Should be a bit more durable for multiple uses.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
So I think my last two runs are telling me I need a better method of temp control. In one run, the vac chamber drifted under the faucet and filled with water. And in my latest run, I put the chamber/slick sheet in the oven but failed to hit the button that confirms the temp setting (resulting in 350° instead of 170°). The oil read 190° by the time I pulled it out and was rapidly bubbling (after a 12 hr vac purge, so I definitely lost some terps).

Also a quick tangent about the slick sheet: worked great on the latest run but it ended up with a few tears, so I can't reuse it. I'd buy more if it was more durable, but it's not really worth it personally going through a $20 roll every 3-4 runs.

Anyways here's the oil I made:

3 g from 28 g of trim.
x98WJg5.png


Even though it's partially decarbed it still has decent taste. However this stuff is super sticky. Could winterizing it w/ a ethanol solution restore it to a more stable consistency?
I've noticed decarbed oil and oil made from ABV is rarely shatter, might look like it but it ends up quite sticky and sap-like... I cannot confirm but I've read that the cannabinoid acids (pre-decarb obv) tend to form a shatter and decarbed oils are sappier and not easily manipulated.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I've noticed decarbed oil and oil made from ABV is rarely shatter, might look like it but it ends up quite sticky and sap-like... I cannot confirm but I've read that the cannabinoid acids (pre-decarb obv) tend to form a shatter and decarbed oils are sappier and not easily manipulated.
This!

Decarbed material will result in sap/oil, unless it is decarbed high quality hash, in which case you can still get shatter (it won't taste anywhere near as good though).
 

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
If u go on eplastics.com they sell thicker ptfe sheets and the prices aren't to bad. Look up "virgin ptfe sheets" I'm experimenting with some but haven't had to to test them all. The slick sheet thickness is about .003". They sell thicker I'd look at .005" that's about the thickness of a piece of paper. Should be a bit more durable for multiple uses.

Yeah definitely need something thicker than the slick sheet. I just read the box and it's labeled as "disposable teflon". I don't really see a downside to going considerably thicker, since teflon seems to conduct heat pretty well.
 
Bouldorado,

spoutti

Well-Known Member
I finally started my qwets. My 1st 2 runs are from trims. I tried a really complicated frame thing for my pc fans with bamboo skewers, untill I figured this easy way..

OA4ttuG.jpg


I decided to double line my pyrex with slick pads and slick sheet on top. The pad to evenout the heating, then the sheet. With an 8'' pyrex (lined with a slick pad to buffer the edges), you can cut your slick sheet roll in 2 to double your usage.

I think 80w of power is a bit too weak for the heating pads. The left one is slowly heating up on max power. It may be because the heating pad aint flush with the pyrex. I added the pad on the right one later in the process and had enough power.

I think I should have winterized my runs. I think its the milky whitish hues in my runs that would be cleaned. Its just I eargerly started my 1st qwet at 4am.. Im I correct to think the crappier initial product the more winterization is needed?

------------------------------------

Purging is done. Adding heat and the fan direct on the pyrex plate speeds up the purging time by quite a lot.

I tried the fold and peel method with no success again :(. There must be something I dont get about that manipulation. Maybe I spread my alcohol in a too bif pyrex plate? I really want an easy way out of scraping. I dirty my hands with shards of shatter and waste it in the process. I use the same handle of a metal spoon I did with parchment paper last time.

Sampling has begun while typing. My brain activities are getting harder :smug:
 
Last edited:

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
Another run from the same trim, gorilla glue #4:
WQXCT4w.png


Compared to how the oil smelled during the purge, I'm kind of disappointed with the taste. Seems like it should taste stronger. I wonder if my vac is boiling off some terpenes? I wish I had a more precise gauge so I could tell if this is the case. It's too bad digital gauges are $100+.

Regardless, I think I'm going to try ethanol for the next run.
 

spoutti

Well-Known Member
I know! It all happened by chance. I was trying to build a nice frame around the fans with an "X" finish at the corners of the fans, to then add legs to it. But it was a pita! I tried this simple design praying it would work someway and was surprised by its solidity. Its because the legs clamp the pyrex plate. We could lower the fan as well by putting the stoppers (rubberbands in my case) lower on the bamboo skewers. Or use a smaller pc fan with smaller pyrex plates.

The 2 clips are just needed to turn everything over and spread the legs around the pyrex plate, 4 would be better :).

All this design emerged because I followed your advice @farscaper, tx (I hesitated between chop sticks and bamboo skewers at the store, but my guardian angel must have influenced my choice :)) I wont need to store big permenant scaffolds around my fans; they are safely stored in their oem packing.
 
spoutti,

spoutti

Well-Known Member
Im evaping right now but there is a white substance appearing all around my puddle. 1st wash, it got mixed in :(, 2nd wash its still all around the puddle.

9htFbRj.jpg

I lifted the oilslick pad around the edges do have a smaller surface to scrape, or a working fold n peel tech :)

1st thing, where is it from? Maybe because I grinded (manually) too much? Its was a tight indica type (m39) so I felt it needed more to extract its goodies inside the bud.
2nd thing, is that the exact "wax etc" I filter out through winterization?
3rd thing, what if I just vape it as is?

Tx in advance for your tips, thoughts, and opignons
 
spoutti,

spoutti

Well-Known Member
Tx for reassuring me. My heart was sinking looking at my perfectly clear puddle to purge turning "dirty" just at the end. Wich my ignorance decided to conclude something went wrong..

It happens at the end for me too. What was whitsh on the borders has purged into a different texture than the rest. Harder to scrape. I confirm your conclusion though. I put my nose into the whitish puddle that seemed to take longer to purge. I cant smell alcohol at around 100F.

Wich brings me to my next question: I heated my collected shatter up to 130F for about a minute. I just smelled erl/herbs aromas, but no alcohol. I thought just lost some terpenes, so Iditched the "heatup to 140F for 30+min" step again.

What do you think about ditching this "2nd purge" step when we spread the ethanol wide and thin? Words of advice will be appreciated :)
 
spoutti,

Tstat

Dead Foot Designs
Accessory Maker
Hey guys, I'm always looking to improve my tech with Everclear extraction. My question is about filtering into a Pyrex dish lined with a slick pad (or using a slick dish).

My process is this:

Freeze buds in a mason jar
Freeze Everclear
Add Everclear to the jar - just enough to cover the buds
Swish the jar around periodically and let stand in the freezer for 3 minutes
After 3 minutes, strain into a stainless bowl
Strain through different micron stainless screens (down to 10) into a Pyrex dish
Cover the Pyrex dish with 2 flat kitchen strainers
Place Pyrex dish with a fan blowing over it
Once evaporated, scrape the hard material into the center of the dish
Place dish n a heating pad, scrape out the product once it's ready

Should I be evaporating onto a slick pad? Does it actually peel right out, without the scraping? If so, what's the best film or dish to use?

My product comes out as shatter each time, but it's never a nice "sheet" of thin shatter like pictured here. It usually breaks up and/or crumbles into little shatter pieces. Stuff is nice, tastes great, but I'd like a nice thin, intact sheet of shatter instead of a pile of crumbly glass like material.

Any suggestions on improving my process would be greatly appreciated!
 

StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
@Tstat our tech is almost the same. next time, don't scrape the edge of the pyrex to the middle until at least a day after it has evaporated. I know it doesn't sound like much of a difference but some kind of curing must be happening because this step has improved my final outcome.
 
StickyShisha2,
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2clicker

Observer
Im evaping right now but there is a white substance appearing all around my puddle. 1st wash, it got mixed in :(, 2nd wash its still all around the puddle.

9htFbRj.jpg

I lifted the oilslick pad around the edges do have a smaller surface to scrape, or a working fold n peel tech :)

1st thing, where is it from? Maybe because I grinded (manually) too much? Its was a tight indica type (m39) so I felt it needed more to extract its goodies inside the bud.
2nd thing, is that the exact "wax etc" I filter out through winterization?
3rd thing, what if I just vape it as is?

Tx in advance for your tips, thoughts, and opignons

smokum is right. its just water. i tripped off of it the first time i saw my run do that as well. totally normal.
 
2clicker,
  • Like
Reactions: NickDlow

farscaper

Well-Known Member
@Tstat our tech is almost the same. next time, don't scrape the edge of the pyrex to the middle until at least a day after it has evaporated. I know it doesn't sound like much of a difference but some kind of curing must be happening because this step has improved my final outcome.
this can be accelerated with a vacuum purge.

I do my eth washes as such.
 

2clicker

Observer
Hey guys, I'm always looking to improve my tech with Everclear extraction. My question is about filtering into a Pyrex dish lined with a slick pad (or using a slick dish).

My process is this:

Freeze buds in a mason jar
Freeze Everclear
Add Everclear to the jar - just enough to cover the buds
Swish the jar around periodically and let stand in the freezer for 3 minutes
After 3 minutes, strain into a stainless bowl
Strain through different micron stainless screens (down to 10) into a Pyrex dish
Cover the Pyrex dish with 2 flat kitchen strainers
Place Pyrex dish with a fan blowing over it
Once evaporated, scrape the hard material into the center of the dish
Place dish n a heating pad, scrape out the product once it's ready

Should I be evaporating onto a slick pad? Does it actually peel right out, without the scraping? If so, what's the best film or dish to use?

My product comes out as shatter each time, but it's never a nice "sheet" of thin shatter like pictured here. It usually breaks up and/or crumbles into little shatter pieces. Stuff is nice, tastes great, but I'd like a nice thin, intact sheet of shatter instead of a pile of crumbly glass like material.

Any suggestions on improving my process would be greatly appreciated!

why are you heating it at all? to make it easier to get out of the pyrex? when doing the scrape method i always scraped it out of the dish and place that in a seperate container. yeah at this point its in pieces and some of it is powedery. if i wanted it all in one chunk i would heat it just enough for it to melt it into one glob.

i can help you get that perfect thin sheet you are after! get yourself the two small slick pad duo. then place your return onto one of them and heat it (as low as possible) and the take the other small pad and place it on top of the oil/bottom pad. then just press down on it until its as thin as you want. this will creat a very uniform looking pile. after its where you want it then take it off the heat and let it cool. in the freezer to speed that up. then just peel them apart.

when i do this a gram comes out about the size and thickness of a silver dollar.
 

Tstat

Dead Foot Designs
Accessory Maker
Ok, so yea... After I scrape up the pile of flakes and powdery shatter, heating them with a heating pad creates a piece that is all stuck together. Once it cools, I have to again scrape it to get it off the Pyrex. It never peels off, it just breaks up into chunks, which is fine. We do the same thing, except you move your scraped up stuff to a slick pad, I guess.

Can you elaborate on that slick pad process? What do you use for a heat source, etc? What are the exact slick pads that you use?

Man, I'd love to get nice clear, thin shatter. I think it's probably all the same, but it looks cooler!

Oh, and I am definitely going to let it sit for 24 hours before scraping, thanks Sticky!
 

DieHard

Accessory supplier
Accessory Maker
@Tstat
You can also place your stuff of parchment paper after your initial scrape. I use this method. If I want it thinner, I will fold it into a large piece of parchment, then gently warm until pliable then use a full can of soda like a rolling pin. Roll t out to the desired thickness.
 

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
Ok, so yea... After I scrape up the pile of flakes and powdery shatter, heating them with a heating pad creates a piece that is all stuck together. Once it cools, I have to again scrape it to get it off the Pyrex. It never peels off, it just breaks up into chunks, which is fine. We do the same thing, except you move your scraped up stuff to a slick pad, I guess.

Can you elaborate on that slick pad process? What do you use for a heat source, etc? What are the exact slick pads that you use?

Man, I'd love to get nice clear, thin shatter. I think it's probably all the same, but it looks cooler!

Oh, and I am definitely going to let it sit for 24 hours before scraping, thanks Sticky!

Once you scrape the pyrex the oil should never back on there unless you like scraping again. To do what 2clicker was talking about, put the scraped oil on a slick sheet or parchment paper, fold the sheet, apply gentle heat, and then press/roll it to form a single piece.

CLZVcLe.png


What I did with the top oil is place the parchment on the warming plate of a coffee maker for ~2 seconds, and then roll it with the side of a smooth glass (beer bottle works well).
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Woo, finally got my hands on more buds (not had enough flowers to do runs lately, my last 10 runs have probably been with bubble hash lol) and plenty of ISO for a flower run.

My plan is to winterize a gram of the first run so that I have access to a stronger heady absolute shatter as well as the standard first run shatter I usually end up with, which is slightly less potent and has a little more give in the consistency; so wont send shards flying everywhere when it snaps.

There has been a real proliferation in people starting to make extracts and posting in this thread! Great to see plenty of experimenting going on around here too :D

I wanna find out a way to make more cbd heavy concentrates without having cbd heavy strains to work with. Is there a way to be more selective about the cannabinoids that we extract?
 
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