ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I have a few different thoughts/questions:

I have been catching up on the thread and reading a good bit of talk over the suggested depth of the screen and using the E-pic notch as a guide. While I think this is an excellent starting point, there is more to this discussion that I think is equally as relevant.

I find the height of the screen less important than recognizing how to put in the right amount of material to leave just a tiny noticeable gap between your material and the top of the heating element. To test the theory, I have been adjusting the screen distance while varying the amount of material to maintain the same distance between the material and the top of the heating element. Results are nearly identical in terms of the color of the extracted material (larger loads required some stirring).

So my questions to you all are, how much material are you all putting in? Would anyone care to share a picture or two? What you all find is the "minimum" amount required to get a decent pull?




I have only had my Nano since the 15th of last month, and after receiving it I made a few comments of not finding any success with the all glass screen GonG and have since been using it dry.

Well I decided to finally try it again last night but was met with utter disappointment. This time, on the very first load the GonG settled onto the Nano and would not let go. Not wanting the GonG to cool and shrink, I left it plugged in and pulled and pulled and pulled and pulled. Until finally, the Gong broke free from my Nano. Broken glass bits and ABV right into the carpet, and I only had 2.5 sessions out of it.:cry:

Not sure what I could have done different, has anyone else had this problem? My dry stem fits perfect against the stop, but the GonG never fit well from the start. I got some JoDa coming, but I hate to have lost the Epic GonG like this...
I am sorry to hear about your issues?
I load my GONG very loose.
One milkshake rip then stir and get about 3 more rips.
@Caligula made a video you may want to watch?
I
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
Meh, just a bummer.

I saw his vid a while back and it gave me some good direction.
Like you, I pack mine as loose as possible. Loose to the point it just falls out if you don't keep the tip up.
 
FlyingLow,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Meh, just a bummer.

I saw his vid a while back and it gave me some good direction.
Like you, I pack mine as loose as possible. Loose to the point it just falls out if you don't keep the tip up.
I hope it all gets worked out!
Is it plugged in to a circuit breaker àlone?
 
ataxian,

Gray Area

Well-Known Member
I find a tamp down gives me better results than leaving loose. I dunno I think I can get more in that way or something :rofl:
But seriously, wispy results with a loose load, but a slight tamp to about 2-3 mm under heater with (about) 5 mm of herb at 6.75 seems to give me the results I'm after (flavour/effect/visible vapor etc).

I'm interested to hear people saying that the notch on the long bit of the E-pik is an indicator of screen level... That would be way too high for me I think.

My screen in both the stem and gong are a fair bit deeper which still only allows a (appx) 8mm gap between screen and heater port...?
 

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
not sure what I could have done different, has anyone else had this problem? My dry stem fits perfect against the stop, but the GonG never fit well from the start. I got some JoDa coming, but I hate to have lost the Epic GonG like this...
The glass is made by hand and isn't always perfect but it is guaranteed. Go to the website and get an rma and I'll send another one out.

And on a side note: Epicswag coming soon.



http://shop.epicvape.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=69
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
I find the height of the screen less important than recognizing how to put in the right amount of material to leave just a tiny noticeable gap between your material and the top of the heating element.

This is why I like to use a screen on top of my dry stems. It always keeps that 1mm distance between the heater and the load, no matter how much I pack. Somehow I have one odd screen from Andy that is made from a thinner gauge than all the other screens, works great for this purpose and doesn't get stuck in my stem.

My latest technique with using GonGs (no top screen) is to hover the nano slowly into the GonG. This shrinks and compacts the load enough so that the next hit I can just let the nano sit on the GonG. This also helps strip some of the heat from the nano that can get too hot after sitting idle for awhile, as if I leave mine on for an hour+ on 6.5 it gets warm enough to combust the first hit.

The Nano has been kicking my ass dry though, it is wonderful!

I started with %95 dry and still prefer it for quicker sessions. Added a round Solo screen plus an inch of silicone tubing, helps cool the vapor a bit and adds another filter.
 
Tweak,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Could you post a photo of this please?
@Tweak has really good methods for sure.

One thing I started doing just today is add a .375" screen on top of my GonG before contact is made to the heater.
@Gray Area gave me this ideal!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100x-Stainl...594?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35d7d9bc1a
$_57.JPG
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
Thanks Tweek& Ataxian, it is always nice to hear other user's techniques.

Personally, I am not a fan of the 2nd screen on top and the reason is because it prevents me from easily stirring the load between pulls. Also, I find myself unintentionally packing the load down when I try this method, I prefer to keep it looser.


I did just order another pic and a pack of screens. I was able to recover mine, but I accidentally dropped the one screen I have down the sink disposal the other day and almost lost it. I don't want to be in a position where I cannot use the Nano, so spares are a must.



Heading to New Orleans this weekend, been having trouble deciding which vape to bring...
 

max

Out to lunch
FlyingLow said:
I find the height of the screen less important than recognizing how to put in the right amount of material to leave just a tiny noticeable gap between your material and the top of the heating element.
I hate to be picky but that would be the top of the 'heater cover' rather than the heating element itself.

All I use are the stems/gongs with the built-in glass screens. I add a stainless steel screen on top (otherwise the holes are too big for me). The pic of the Honeycomb Glass Enano Stem on the website is somewhat misleading since the glass screen isn't really visible, and it has a ss screen added, but I like knowing the screen is always gonna be in the same spot.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I hate to be picky but that would be the top of the 'heater cover' rather than the heating element itself.

All I use are the stems/gongs with the built-in glass screens. I add a stainless steel screen on top (otherwise the holes are too big for me). The pic of the Honeycomb Glass Enano Stem on the website is somewhat misleading since the glass screen isn't really visible, and it has a ss screen added, but I like knowing the screen is always gonna be in the same spot.
I have a life time supply of screens.
Works well regardless!
I use a pair of squeezers to stir.
6maYvk5.jpg

XvKk5dv.jpg
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
Could you post a photo of this please?

Sure

1tYJy7Cl.jpg

The ingredients. MP, 1" of Silicone tube, Solo screen, and a Nano stem.

aZcK9acl.jpg

Add screen on top, you can see it is filthy already. Like a K&N filter, the dirtier it gets the better it collects plant material.

d7MT27fl.jpg

Add Silicone tube, make sure to wet the stem so it slides on easy

RbAwuhUl.jpg

Then slide a MP.

pVOkjA8l.jpg

Here you can see the collection of oil already

9nGRH8Kl.jpg

And a look down the MP. Very thin opening which might help absorb some heat and feels like a cigar. Easier to direct where the vapor hits your mouth, rather it be your tongue or throat.

Personally, I am not a fan of the 2nd screen on top and the reason is because it prevents me from easily stirring the load between pulls.

How often do you stir?

Your not the first to state this but I really don't see it as an issue. It literally takes 2 seconds to remove, even easier with it packed. You spend more time trying to keep your load from spilling into the Heater port w/o a screen.

You don't even need to remove it. Just smack it on your hand to move the screen to the end, then shake the contents. This keeps you from needing to stir, which can crush your load and cause more dust/debris that can make it through the SS screen. I find it pulls harder the more I stir, so I've been stirring less.
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
Sure

1tYJy7Cl.jpg

The ingredients. MP, 1" of Silicone tube, Solo screen, and a Nano stem.

aZcK9acl.jpg

Add screen on top, you can see it is filthy already. Like a K&N filter, the dirtier it gets the better it collects plant material.

d7MT27fl.jpg

Add Silicone tube, make sure to wet the stem so it slides on easy

RbAwuhUl.jpg

Then slide a MP.

pVOkjA8l.jpg

Here you can see the collection of oil already

9nGRH8Kl.jpg

And a look down the MP. Very thin opening which might help absorb some heat and feels like a cigar. Easier to direct where the vapor hits your mouth, rather it be your tongue or throat.



How often do you stir?

Your not the first to state this but I really don't see it as an issue. It literally takes 2 seconds to remove, even easier with it packed. You spend more time trying to keep your load from spilling into the Heater port w/o a screen.

You don't even need to remove it. Just smack it on your hand to move the screen to the end, then shake the contents. This keeps you from needing to stir, which can crush your load and cause more dust/debris that can make it through the SS screen. I find it pulls harder the more I stir, so I've been stirring less.


Whatta great fucking post!

I stir after each draw, and am only getting 2-3 draws per pack.
LOL~ You are absolutely right about trying to keep loads from spilling into the heater port, I am totally focused on keeping my tip up! I guess it might be more relaxing to just throw a screen on, I am going to have to try for myself... for scientific research of course!

You are right about stirring pushes small debris through the screen, but I find it worth it for a harder hit.

When you say it pulls "harder" the more you stir, what do you mean?
Are you inferring it is harder resistance when you pull, or do you mean it is a harsher, more of a lung-buster kind of hit? (I lOVE lung-busters!!)
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
Whatta great fucking post!

Thanks. So worried you might take offense, just trying to help. :tup: Tone is hard to read through text.

When you say it pulls "harder" the more you stir, what do you mean?
Are you inferring it is harder resistance when you pull

Yup, that's it. As I stir the load it breaks it into smaller pieces, allowing less airflow. And I like to pack my stems as much as I can, which bites me in the ass towards the end of a session when resistance gets too much, but I can't help myself.

I agree with stirring for harder hits. I think it's a combination of more surface area along with more resistance for longer heat retention.
 
@Tweak Thanks for explaining with such clear photos. There's a lack of step-by-steps like this for beginners, and this is really helpful.

For anyone interested, the Hawaiian Koa is still in stock on the website, as is the walnut and fiddleback walnut. Looks like all other options are out of stock.

kpmpxb.jpg


I can't believe the Koa is still there! I can't justify buying another one myself (yet) but am pining over the photos (geddit?).
 
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