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Kleen extract

darkrom

Great Scott!
You can fold the pads. I do it all the time. What I do is add light LIGHT heat until it kinda saps together instead of sticking together. Then as it cools I keep trying. Eventually it gets to the "right" temp to be super sticky but solid enough to fold off the pad.

Once its in one concentrated blob its easier to remove.


Basically, just make it stick to itself.
 

NickDlow

Log Hog
When I do the "fold-n-peel" I usually turn my hot plate down a bit and put my parchment on there and do it if someone doesn't have a vid up by my next KX wash I'll make one with my run but this is kinda off topic the concentrates for noobs q&a may be a better thread for this question
 

R.John.Blake

Active Member
Has anyone tried an initial water cure to try to increase yield by allowing for longer soak times?

If you removed most of the chlorophyll through a water cure (a week perhaps with daily water change) wouldn't you be able to leave the buds in the solvent longer thereby increasing yield?
 

2clicker

Observer
I too use Slicksheets, as per your suggestions weeks ago.

yes! i remember now. how are you liking them? i find that i can use the same pieces for quite some time. a roll lasts much longer than i originally thought.

hmmm, kinda hard to fold the pad, what would you do with this @2clicker?
IMG_5667.jpg

And even if I had the slick sheet, isn't pyrex convex so the liquid will tend to go to the edges?

yep just like darkrom said... you can still do the fold and peel because you arent actually creasing the pad. just keep folding oil on top of itself until its all collected.

regarding the edges of the pyrex. yes mine have the concaved edges/corners. what i did was take the sealing lid for the pyrex dish and cut out the center of it. like most of it. the only part left is the rim that seals to the dish. then i take sliksheet place it over the dish (flat). then i put lid edge on keeping the sliksheet tight (and still flat) over the top of the dish. then i take a finger and poke it directly in the middle of the tight sheet. i push it down until my finger hits the bottom of my dish. this creates a bowl or cone in the sheet. when you pour you wash into it, the cone keeps the oil in the center of the sheet. nothing even comes close to the edges. this helps when collecting your return. this allows most of the wash to evap in the center so that way the oil is in a smaller blob making for easier/quicker collection. yes the bowl/cone does slow down the evap due to less surface area, but for the headaches is saves when collecting its well worth it.
 

Caligula

Maximus
yes! i remember now. how are you liking them? i find that i can use the same pieces for quite some time. a roll lasts much longer than i originally thought.

They work well, but I seem to have more "residual concentrate" left over (small amounts spread so thin its hard to reclaim) on the OS SlickSheet than I do using ultra premium silicone sprayed PP. That's not to say these aren't much more durable (an aspect well worth a slight decrease in oleophobic properties)! Plus Im pretty sure they are air tight as long as you tape them shut.

Plus no possibility of getting PP fuzz in your oil.
 
Caligula,
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2clicker

Observer
They work well, but I seem to have more "residual concentrate" left over (small amounts spread so thin its hard to reclaim) on the OS SlickSheet than I do using ultra premium silicone sprayed PP. That's not to say these aren't much more durable (an aspect well worth a slight decrease in oleophobic properties)! Plus Im pretty sure they are air tight as long as you tape them shut.

Plus no possibility of getting PP fuzz in your oil.

yeah if anything is a pain to get off i usually grab my old space case kief scraper and scrape it off. hold the sheet down flat and scrape slowly and you wont harm the sheet at all. this can even be done with a blade, but obviously more care must be taken to ensure the sheet wont be cut.
 
2clicker,
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CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
I was thinking more surface area hence what you see in the pic. Using that lab hotplate, and the slick pad, drastically reduced my evap time to under an hour with very precisely controlled heat (solution was at a constant 98-100*F temp) as opposed to much longer using induction cooktop/double boiler method. However, being that I can control the heat so much better now, I think I will make it pool to the middle as you suggest @2clicker...I'll just put something heat resistant in the four corners to prop the slick pad into a bowl shape as my pyrex did not come with lids. Will report back in a few days with results.
 

2clicker

Observer
I was thinking more surface area hence what you see in the pic. Using that lab hotplate, and the slick pad, drastically reduced my evap time to under an hour with very precisely controlled heat (solution was at a constant 98-100*F temp) as opposed to much longer using induction cooktop/double boiler method. However, being that I can control the heat so much better now, I think I will make it pool to the middle as you suggest @2clicker...I'll just put something heat resistant in the four corners to prop the slick pad into a bowl shape as my pyrex did not come with lids. Will report back in a few days with results.

cant wait to hear more. the idea was the smaller the puddle of wash... the smaller the puddle of return. which in turn means less folding and peeling.

if you are after a faster evap time i suggest you keep doing it the way you are. or if you dont mind a longer wait then give it a shot.

another goal of mine was to do a dry ice extraction first, and then run that return ala QWET. this way i could dissolve much more goodies in much less ethanol. that would mean a much smaller puddle to begin with resulting in both a faster evap and smaller puddle of return. combine that with the coned liner method and it may just be magic. i should say that i have yet to try a QWET wash on dry ice extraced keif. i can only assume that the small amount of ethanol can dissolve all of it. would maybe have to play with solvent amounts.

i wanna pour out a shot glass worth of wash and within an hour from first soak to a have a gram of shatter and be dabbing it right away. am i dreaming?
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
cant wait to hear more. the idea was the smaller the puddle of wash... the smaller the puddle of return. which in turn means less folding and peeling.

if you are after a faster evap time i suggest you keep doing it the way you are. or if you dont mind a longer wait then give it a shot.

another goal of mine was to do a dry ice extraction first, and then run that return ala QWET. this way i could dissolve much more goodies in much less ethanol. that would mean a much smaller puddle to begin with resulting in both a faster evap and smaller puddle of return. combine that with the coned liner method and it may just be magic. i should say that i have yet to try a QWET wash on dry ice extraced keif. i can only assume that the small amount of ethanol can dissolve all of it. would maybe have to play with solvent amounts.

i wanna pour out a shot glass worth of wash and within an hour from first soak to a have a gram of shatter and be dabbing it right away. am i dreaming?
I wonder if there are maybe cannabinoids or terpenes in the actual plant matter. I know the majority of the cannabinoids are in the trich heads, but not sure about the content of the actual flower.
 

CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
I had a "duh" moment about the above (removing your prize from the medium you purged with)...I showed pic of the oil on the slick pad, and we were discussing fold and peel...so I did that, and it was working and then I thought, hold on a minute, I already have this on a slick pad, I don't need to remove it...I can just scoop dabs off of it right to the tool and to the nail!!! I laughed at myself since all the above that I asked about. I don't have use it all...I just fold in half (without creasing...really only ends touch) and put it in a gallon ziploc bag...done!! I am :rofl::lmao::lol: at myself! Back to my irregularly scheduled dab & vape sesh..

Now back on topic to KX
 

2clicker

Observer
I had a "duh" moment about the above (removing your prize from the medium you purged with)...I showed pic of the oil on the slick pad, and we were discussing fold and peel...so I did that, and it was working and then I thought, hold on a minute, I already have this on a slick pad, I don't need to remove it...I can just scoop dabs off of it right to the tool and to the nail!!! I laughed at myself since all the above that I asked about. I don't have use it all...I just fold in half (without creasing...really only ends touch) and put it in a gallon ziploc bag...done!! I am :rofl::lmao::lol: at myself! Back to my irregularly scheduled dab & vape sesh..

Now back on topic to KX

haha yeah if yer just gonna scrape and dab then there is really no need to remove it.
 
2clicker,
So I know absolutely nothing about extracts. I saw this Kleen stuff and I'm wondering where I can see examples on how to make this stuff. Is this how you make shatter wax and crumble with this stuff? If so how many other ingredients and utensils will I need and where can I find instructions on DIY
 
Cannabis Connoisseur,

TeeJay1952

Well-Known Member
I received this in a private message from @DieHard Kudos to him.
1. Place KX in freezer.
2. Break down dry flowers into small pieces. Grinding may lead to green extract.
3. Place flowers in freezer. (Best results if they are frozen at least overnight)
4. Fold the 6x6" screen into a bowl. (50 Micron screen?edit tj1952)
5. Put flowers and KX in a jar. Just enough to cover flowers.
6. Put back in freezer for 3 minutes, removing to shake gently once per minute.
7. When time is up, slowly pour into the screen bowl over the Pyrex dish. Pour slowly so as not to overflow and get contaminants in the finished extract.
8. Place dish with extract in a well ventilated area with a fan if possible to evaporate. No heat is needed if you are patient.
If it is really hard shatter, maybe a little heat to help with the scraping.
9. Lather, rinse, repeat. Do a second wash. (Some do 3 washes, my second was done with butane)
10. Sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor!
 

CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
Yup, I can confirm that is what @DieHard did as he posted that earlier in this thread...good man that McClane.
Now it has been mentioned about the 10 micron screen...so I assume, soak, pour through 50 micron into a dish then from there pour through a 10 micron screen to a dish then purge correct?
 
I'll come back when I get the Kleen because I 'm lost with the screen and rinsing. I was following to that point then I'm lost. But to be certain this how you get shatter crumble and wax right?
 
Cannabis Connoisseur,
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jepjep13

Well-Known Member
So in talking about micron filtering, especially using syringe filters, do we know at what micron we start to filter out beneficials like thc, cbd, terps, cannabinols, etc.

I believe most molds are filtered out between 3-12 and spores 3-40 microns.

Edit: while in solution, like dissolved in 190proof
 
Last edited:

TeeJay1952

Well-Known Member
I looked back at his note and it was:
Gotta get some KleenXtract.com and a 6x6" 10 micron screen from 316twholesale.com and a Pyrex dish. That's all you need. You will be amazed how easy it is to have your own shatter

Ok, very simple.
pA1Mj0ytOq3BhhkhbLDrMu94LndP14CciRH2bAppcCwKEPEtx-WJbOjLH40aYKCcDdwK3VFtR6q--pRI6rJZTdqSr3op09pWsM9HzQRYgDp8euh0R1Hza4s1QVxjedAu9w


1. Place KX in freezer.

2. Break down dry flowers into small pieces. Grinding may lead to green extract.

3. Place flowers in freezer. (Best results if they are frozen at least overnight)

4. Fold the 6x6" screen into a bowl.

5. Put flowers and KX in a jar. Just enough to cover flowers.

6. Put back in freezer for 3 minutes, removing to shake gently once per minute.

7. When time is up, slowly pour into the screen bowl over the Pyrex dish. Pour slowly so as not to overflow and get contaminants in the finished extract.

8. Place dish with extract in a well ventilated area with a fan if possible to evaporate. No heat is needed if you are patient.

If it is really hard shatter, maybe a little heat to help with the scraping.

9. Lather, rinse, repeat. Do a second wash. (Some do 3 washes, my second was done with butane)

10. Sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor!
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
So in talking about micron filtering, especially using syringe filters, do we know at what micron we start to filter out beneficials like thc, cbd, terps, cannabinols, etc.

I believe most molds are filtered out between 3-12 and spores 3-40 microns.

Edit: while in solution, like dissolved in 190proof


That is a very good question...how BIG are various cannabinoids? I wonder if that could open up new things like "shaping" the effects if they are different sizes and some can be quite literally filtered out.
 
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jepjep13

Well-Known Member
I was thinking along those lines too. But more importantly what beni's could get filtered out in an attempt to filter out molds, spores, bacteria, etc.

I was looking at .4 micron syringe filters to use after winterization but started thinking if they would filter too much.

Per wiki thc has a
Mol. mass314.469 g/mol

But that has to do with weight not size, bidk, never took much chem.
 
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xer0

Well-Known Member
Just ran out of Everclear and I'm trying to figure out if I should grab some more from WC or give KX a try.

Has anyone ordered from KX in the last few weeks? The shipping issues at the beginning of the thread have me concerned. I'm almost out of errl and I don't want to wait around for a couple weeks to get KX when I know I can get an order from WC within 3 days.
 
xer0,

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
When I ordered my KX a month ago, there were no shipping issues. I've yet to use it, but I have it in my hands.
 
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