Discontinued Vapir NO2

DopeFight said:

I have had my No2 for a little over two years and it's been a wonderful piece!! Shes been working great the whole time but in the last week or so it seems to shut off a good bit in the middle of a session if I happen to bump it, some times it will come right back on and continue heating back up. But from time to time it will just shut off and not come back on by pressing the button. This will happen with a full charge or enough battery life it shouldn't be trying to shut it's self off. I found when it does that I can give it a little squeeze kinda up at the top just above the screen to read your temperature. Doing this seems to make it stay come back on and stay on. Anyone have as much as a wild guess what may be causing my No2 to act up like this.

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The unit could have a connection issue.
When light is out... I imagine heating stops (or does it?)
I ask because it could be heating with just visual display broken.
When any tool needs a squeeze to function I imagine there is a connection issue.
You have either a short, or loose connection, that works better as it gets squeezed.

I do not generally have the courage to "go in" and see.
I stay out of electronics.

I had the same thing happen to me (or I thought). My unit would shut off. My problem was human error: I would be using the unit, loose track of time, and it would shut down (20 minutes seems like 5), or my big blazed finger would inadvertently hit the button. The nice part is you can have what sounds like a loose connection or a short repairered, but my issues can't be fixed. I would take it apart (for legal reasons my advice is to send it back to Vapir for repair or simply buy another). This site has some great resources, it just so happens I am not one of them; I simply observe and give the talented ones positive reinforcement. Tell us what you do and how it turns out...Good luck.

Please... Contact the customer service department.
They can walk you through the troubleshooting steps, to get you back on the road!

Vapir Customer Service: 800-841-1022

TeeJay1952 said:

I LUV my unit but (isn't there always a but) I have difficulty opening and closing. I feel like I am missing some basic trick. I can't believe that all the med patients twist that top on and off with no trouble.
When I was a kid my Dad would toss me the car keys and send me to fetch from trunk of car. Looking at all the keys on ring I would ask which one? Dad would yell back square key, round key and I would hold keys to light and look at the tips and they would all look similar. When I turned 30 a friend told me to move my thumb and low and behold all the keys had different shapes at the top. What I am trying to say is "You don't know what you don't know until you know it." If you think of an easy way in and out of top of NO2 please help an old dog out. If that is just the way it is I guess I will have to toughen up and do hand exercises.

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RUDE BOY said:

TeeJay1952 I will tell ya that this is the only problem I have had with the no2 myself. One thing that helps a little (but not much) is to not push down on the top when twisting on and off. I have neuropathy so this actually bothers me quite often. I have used one of those rubber gripper thingies that aid in removing jar lids it helps to grasp the top. So other then the Hand exercises, That's all I have.

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A little late to the party I know but... Take a drop (literally enough to barely coat tip of finger) of cooking oil and swipe around rubber ring washer on the top piece (where it meets the core unit). It takes very little. I used so little it didn't even leave a visible sheen on the washer. This will make the mouthpiece assembly rotate in and out of place with ease. I recoat about once every 30 uses.

TeeJay1952 said:

Here is a weird try
Put battery in upside down.
Operate in plug mode.
Unplug and turn on.
Turn off, flip battery operate in plug position.
Is it charging?
No science but word of mouth advice.

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This made me laugh when I read it as well.

But now to the reason I wanted to post (which is the original reason I'd found this thread). Tested and tried to work is an additional screen atop the herb chamber. I was having issues with herb (finely ground) clogging the screen in the lid with even light inhalation, constricting air flow to zero. Topping the herb chamber with a standard Vapir screen directly before rotating on lid (lid still with screen in it as standard) controls this air flow blockage.

Also @ sunnyblaq - Have you tried waxes or shatters in bullet builds? Is it possible? Have never medicated with anything but Vapir NO2 using only flower.

I was able to have a wax session using bullets. But i mixed with a layer of bud on the bottom of the bullet then a layer wax then another layer of herb. I've only tried it two or three times since wax is a little hard to come by but it worked fine for me. There are others who had similar success using pinnacle bullets to vaporize wax i just tried it with a no2 and it worked well. Hope this helped you out.

I rolled wax in cotton and stuffed it in the bullet.
NO2 performed absolutely like a champ!
I showed this in this very thread, and have used the technique with the NO2, but with the bullet, this works better.
Original post is aT http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapir-no2.1694/page-75#post-353558

Vitolo said:

The wax will get the NO2 pretty sticky inside, so prepare to keep it tidy.
a small dab is all you need in the cotton.. a tiny one.

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Outstanding. Always nice videos.

IS the chamber supposed to only read out (IR no contact thermometer) at close to 250-270F when it is set to 375-400? The temp does change based on if you raise/lower it, but it isn't what it says on the display, or even close. Maybe the thermometer or whatever is inside gets that hot, but not the bottom or sides of the chamber. It's a little annoying because it'd be nice to know if the temps are getting to hig, and causing benzene and other chems to release, so you could stop right before that, BUT at 270 max, that's not very good.

Also, I've seen it mentioned once or twice, but what is wrong with leaving the chamber open with the heat on 400F to let the wisps of vapor or smoke whatever it is, to come out? If it is plugged in, it shouldn't really make a difference.I can see it draining the battery, but if you do it without running on battery power, it should be fine no?

1)-The oven temp can not be accurately probed if the oven is open.... you are measuring in an open system that is intended to be closed.

2)-If you leave oven door off with thermostat set, you are causing your own problems, as the oven can not stop heating... trying to reach temperature.... eventually it will start heating things that would have been OK if the oven was shut and the sensors could go off. (wiring, connections etc)

3)-There is no benefit to leaving unit open with it turned on, except to ruin your unit.
Same with your stove.
One would not set oven to top temperature and leave door open.
It can ruin your vaporizer, and it can ruin your stove.

Vitolo said:

The oven temp can not be accurately probed if the oven is open.... you are measuring in an open system that is intended to be closed.

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MEauring the surface of the chamber as soon as it is opened after minutes of being left on the 400F setting. The bowl shoudl not be able to drop to 250F in 3 seconds. Not measuring the air with the ir thermometer either, so its not that fresh cool air gets in. The brass should be hitting whatever temp is on the digital readout imo for it to be an accurate gauge.

please note that IR thermometers (non-contact) need to be adjusted (emissivity) for the type of material being measured. please just ignore if you have already done that. Or get a $10 BBQ thermometer and take a contact measurement.

I’ve always wondered if my NO2 was giving me an accurate temperature reading also. My unit was running cool when I first purchased it, and as time went on the unit was running hotter. Until yesterday, it got real hot and combusted a bowl at 4000F. I thought it might be a fluke; so today, I reloaded the NO2, and it combusted at 3700F. I shot a message to Vapir. Be a day or so until I hear from them.

I really like my No.2. The old girl doesn't get out much these days, but I like her all the same. She continues to be in my lineup. Not too many portables these days with batteries you can change out either. I have never tried the bullet method, I will have to try it one of these days.

The No.2 is a very reliable underrated portable vape. Every household that vaporizes should own one.

Ronp said:

I’ve always wondered if my NO2 was giving me an accurate temperature reading also. My unit was running cool when I first purchased it, and as time went on the unit was running hotter. Until yesterday, it got real hot and combusted a bowl at 4000F. I thought it might be a fluke; so today, I reloaded the NO2, and it combusted at 3700F. I shot a message to Vapir. Be a day or so until I hear from them.

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For the last two days my NO2 has been working fine. It’s as if it never combusted two bowls. By the way take off the last “0” in the temperatures of my last post. If my NO2 ran that hot it would vaporize everything in the room (Don’t write, “Well, I’m a disabled engineer in the field of thermodynamics, and you actually need a temperature of “? degrees” to vaporize a human.”) Anyway I’ve been in a fog, it’s as if I’m taking some kind of mind altering drug…it makes no sense.

Yeah i wouldn't find it very odd not to have a bit of combustion at 4000F even as low as 3700f.

Glad it's workin' for you now at least, but i would still follow up with vapir to try getting it fixed or a replacement unit. just not normal to ever end up with with a burnt bowl or two.

How do you guys clean yours?

For reasons out of my control, mine has been pretty mistreated for the last year or two... It mostly just stayed outside in a pretty humid environment.

I went and got it today, because i would really like to be able to use this thing again, and there was kind of a smell to it on the inside, don't really know how to describe it.

I've taken both the screens out and soaked them in alcohol, dipped a q-tip in iso and used that to clean the inside of the herb container and the inside of the top piece, and i even vaped some chamomile out of in in an effort to get rid of this scent. It's MUCH better now, but i can definitely still kind of tell that it is there.

I've had it heating on 400 degrees for the last few hours in an effort to burn off whatever might be in there. But as far as i can see; the herb container, even under the screens, looks relatively clean.

Does anyone have an idea of how i can best, and most thoroughly clean this thing? Any advice is appreciated.

@dirtystilts How does the bowl/ chamber look? Shiny clean? Or gunky? If gunky you can use a dremmel with a stone or mini wire brush and it will look new.
I soak the whole top piece and you can poke a wire/pipe cleaner into the 4 holes in the bottom of bowl to clean it

If you feel comfortable taking it apart? 4 screws and you can get a look at the inside.
If you keep it outside you should at least cover it with a sock or something. Wouldn't want to vape mold.

FIRST....
open unit's bottom, and be sure that essence is not the odor of battery acid.
A battery could over time be damaged.
Unlikely but do that forst... do it now.

If Battery appears normal, smell it... and see if it has an odor.
Report back with results.

If all is ok there.....
I would say, take a vacuum cleaner nozzle to it... first to the outside... round all vent slits... and cover some slits as you do so, to create more suction....
Then with top off and screen removed do same to the oven.
Replace screen, and never heat the oven with top off. that is VERY bad for the unit.
vape a few loads of high grade MJ in there, and the oils will coat any surface that air passes through.

Q-Tip dipped in ISO Alcohol (91% or higher), and then squeezed to get the excess out, does a great job rubbing off the residue in the bowl. Order a pack of like 100 brass screens online for under $5 and just replace them weekly or biweekly.

A can of compressed air can blast a lot of dust out of the unit without having to ever take it apart... Also, keep the rim between the brass chamber and the rest of the vape on the top where it meets the cap, because that can easily get clogged. Once you do a thorough cleaning and get all the metal parts looking like clean shiny brass again, and new screens, get in the habit of giving it a quick cleaning after every use to increase the time you can wait before completely ISO cleaning it again.




Two extra tips..

-Take a round screen, and just lay it on top of the chamber before you screw the cap on (while leaving the two normal screens in place , making 3 screens total). This should greatly increase airflow, and help prevent the top screen from getting blocked by the plant matter (also prevents the tiny particles from gettng into the sticky mouthpiece and further restricting airflow, as well as going into your mouth and lungs.) It will however get coated in residue tho, so you should clean it frequently while it is still hot, or use ISO when it cools down.

-Use about a foot of whip tubing, and a water filtration contraption of your choice, and you will be able to draw much more easily, and also not get much throat burn at all compared to a direct draw at high temps. The decrease in draw resistance is a huge improvement to the No2, for sure. It also allow the vapor to be cleaner, by adding another layer of filtration.

I just use the screen in the bottom and one laying across the top. I've found the upper one unnecessary. Also I think the vapir2 to have the least draw resistance out of the few portables I've tried

al bundy said:

@dirtystilts
If you feel comfortable taking it apart? 4 screws and you can get a look at the inside.
If you keep it outside you should at least cover it with a sock or something. Wouldn't want to vape mold.

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This was the best advice i got, took the whole thing apart and cleaned it real thoroughly. No mold in the vapor path, which is what i was concerned about. The only thing that I did notice was some of what might be mold on the circuit board... but as long as it's not in the vapor path i don't really know why I should be concerned about that. I added pictures to show you guys.

http://imgur.com/x1dAm01,xwydAnQ

A q-tip and some iso alcohol should clear up that mold without damaging the circuit board. But make sure you let it COMPLETELY dry before connecting it to the battery or plug. The higher the % the better. Try to get at least 90% ISO so it dries faster with less water content.. It has the added benefit (iso alcohol in general) of being a sterilizing agent for a lot of microbes and other harmful organisms.

NOTE:
If you do it by labor day, you can add code LBRDAY14 for 20% off.
The way their codes are set up, that means since the trade in is not a code..... but rather a "deal"....
One could potentially trade in a non functioning unit, pay 1/2 price for the new unit, and then proceed to get 20% off that cost!
Makes me almost wish my units were on their last legs!

I have a question. How long do you draw on it before reloading?

Most of the time the NO2 times out on me, I dump the avb then I usually reload with fresh. I wonder all the time if i'm leaving something unvaped.

The NO2 is my main vape, even though I bought the EQ, the EQ rarely gets used.