Silver Surfer Vaporizer
- Thread starter vtac
- Start date
tuk
Well-Known Member
Obviously you haven't read the whole thread?I assume that it wouldn't hurt to pull it back up?
Can you provide a scientific reason for pulling on the element & how 1-2mm will make the slightest difference to a setup that has already been adjusted by 15-20mm? If the distance between herb and element is the issue this can be proven by moving the screen even further towards the wand opening, if it doesn't resolve the issue then moving the element wont either.
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420quickscope
New Member
They would not tell you on their website that you are allowed to push the heating element down if they didn't want you moving the heating element.
idk what else I could say, other than they suggest that the heating element be pushed down "just far enough to where it is not touching any glass" aka not halfway down the HC.
Response to draft 1: If we could skip the ambiguity, and if you could reference me to the post where someone broke their unit doing this, then please do so. I would not know where in the 232 pages to find it.
*I typed this while your post was still a 1st draft. I have no way to go into the actual science for you regarding the multiple variables around this entire situation. I can only try to convey some physics and hope you can rationally apply it. The air isn't ~1000f when it reaches your mouth, and it is definitely not that hot when it reaches the herbs*
http://www.induceramic.com/industri...alumina-metallic-ceramic-heating-element-htcc
They operate at about 600-700 degrees Celsius. Your herb needs ~ 185 c (give or take). (obviously dont run the heating element at full heat)
Many variables with heater covers (height, diameter) and wands (diameter) and draw speeds (PsI of breath) will effect the heat transfer from that very hot element, to the lukewarm air, down some glass airways (give or take many millimeters) to your herb (give or take quality and available oils) ...
idk what else I could say, other than they suggest that the heating element be pushed down "just far enough to where it is not touching any glass" aka not halfway down the HC.
Response to draft 1: If we could skip the ambiguity, and if you could reference me to the post where someone broke their unit doing this, then please do so. I would not know where in the 232 pages to find it.
*I typed this while your post was still a 1st draft. I have no way to go into the actual science for you regarding the multiple variables around this entire situation. I can only try to convey some physics and hope you can rationally apply it. The air isn't ~1000f when it reaches your mouth, and it is definitely not that hot when it reaches the herbs*
http://www.induceramic.com/industri...alumina-metallic-ceramic-heating-element-htcc
They operate at about 600-700 degrees Celsius. Your herb needs ~ 185 c (give or take). (obviously dont run the heating element at full heat)
Many variables with heater covers (height, diameter) and wands (diameter) and draw speeds (PsI of breath) will effect the heat transfer from that very hot element, to the lukewarm air, down some glass airways (give or take many millimeters) to your herb (give or take quality and available oils) ...
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420quickscope
New Member
Every person's heater cover is going to be different to some degree. It's not a very large chance, but it does happen. Some people must have ran into this problem, or they would not have thought to mention it as a maintenance tip.
tuk
Well-Known Member
...then you should refrain from advising people to randomly pull on their heating element.That other stuff you posted only proves you didn't understand any of my previous posts regarding the length of heating path.
How did your element break again?
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420quickscope
New Member
I turned it off and went to bed. The next morning I turned the unit on, and only the indicator light came on. After a half hour of just staring at the thing, the heating element did not heat up what so ever.
I turned it off, and back on again. This time i waited 2 hours. Nothing. Wash, rinse, repeat.
I explained my problem to 7th floor, and now my repaired surfer will be here in the morning.
420quickscope
New Member
That other stuff you posted only proves you didn't understand any of my previous posts regarding the length of heating path.
How did your element break again?
https://www.google.com/patents/US6787741?dq=alumina metallic ceramic heating element&hl=en&sa=X&ei=NFzfU8ryKKXUiwL3_YC4Cg&ved=0CCIQ6AEwATgK
HERE IS THE PATENT. It can be much more complicated than "you pulled on it and it broke." I am not as dense of a 19 year old as I may seem to others. Many things could go wrong with pulling on the heating element, yes. But far more can happen inside the element outside of you accidentally disconnecting the electrode points from the ceramic heating body. They printed an entire circuit into the thing and then encased it in ceramic.
tuk
Well-Known Member
If they let you push it down I assume that it wouldn't hurt to pull it back up?
I'm not feeling the continuity in your argument.
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@exit if you want to take advice from a kid who hasn't read the thread, was pulling on his element then it mysteriously broke or a bunch of other people who can provide no rational/scientific reason for pulling on the element ..then go right ahead and fill your boots. Last word from me.
420quickscope
New Member
Whatever you say man
You can pull out any tidbits of my posts and assume what you want. I've left many useful pieces of advice that I could offer, but all you want to do is be right about 'pulling on heaters can break them.' Of course that possibility is there. However, on numerous occasions it has happened to work great for people. Also to say that my unit mysteriously broke is a joke. I made the adjustment the very first day I had my unit.
You assume that my heating element broke because of this just because one person posted about it in the thread. You inherently assume that we all will run into this problem and that we are all incapable of taking full care of our unit and adjusting it to fit our vaporization needs. Other people have clearly contacted 7th floor about adjusting their element. They would not have written about it on their FAQ page. Frequently Asked Questions. Why would it be frequent? Perhaps they were frequently asked about a heater cover touching the heating element, and that if adjusting the element to accommodate would break the unit? Because each heater cover is different? Each heating element might sit differently out of the factory?
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/ssv-ceramic-heater-touching-glass-cover.3382/
No damage done there. In fact, his looked bad out of factory. Wouldn't you say so?
We aren't pulling our heating elements back and forth like a Fisher Price toy... we're adults with functioning brains. Thing happen, but we know how to be careful with our things. People are capable of carefully adjusting their units. Just look at the schematics for the part. I left the patent link. They are durable little buggers. If you succeed in breaking the wires you had to try hard.
People are also capable of learning proper draw techniques. I would say that all of your posts regarding a proper draw are excellent. We've also both pointed to the same solutions. We just do not agree on the heating element thing. my last words to ya.
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tuk
Well-Known Member
What? ..a thread from 3.5 years ago talking about what to do if the element is touching the roof of the HC?
Nothing whatsoever to do with the issue we're discussing which is a lack of heat reaching the herb?
The position of the element in the provided pic shows there is nothing wrong with the position of the element.
Did you not learn anything from randomly pulling on and breaking your element?
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420quickscope
New Member
It has everything to do with it because the heating element is adjustable. If it can move down, do they not expect you to move it back up if you have a heater cover that does not squash the heater?
Let's just say... If heater cover A touches but heater cover B hovers above it, and you adjust the unit's heater for use with HC A, then what about HC B? Do you "learn to take better draws" as you suggest? Or would you go with the 7th floor recommendation.
1. they say it can be adjusted
2. it's not on the list of things you cannot do which would void the warranty. removing the bottom and tampering with the wires would be considered negligent use and thus void a warranty.
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tuk
Well-Known Member
For the millionth time ...adjusting the element 1-2mm wont noticeable alter the amount of heat reaching the herb.
& no the element is not "adjustable" nor is designed to be adjusted ...it has a tiny bit of play, 1-2mm is all.
Which was suitably demonstrated when it broke after you pulled on it.
& no the element is not "adjustable" nor is designed to be adjusted ...it has a tiny bit of play, 1-2mm is all.
Which was suitably demonstrated when it broke after you pulled on it.
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420quickscope
New Member
I don't know what to tell you man. It worked for me, and I did not break my heating element on the very first day,as much as you want to tell yourself that I did. My vape would not have worked for so long after.. It was still valid under warranty and not rejected by the company for negligent use. The vape was repaired. 
One small adjustment would not have thrown my SSV on the fence of breaking or not breaking every time I turned my unit on... for 6 months. Quite frankly... without opening up the SSV (which would have voided the warranty) I cannot possibly tell you what inside of my 'Schrodinger's SSV' broke.
One small adjustment would not have thrown my SSV on the fence of breaking or not breaking every time I turned my unit on... for 6 months. Quite frankly... without opening up the SSV (which would have voided the warranty) I cannot possibly tell you what inside of my 'Schrodinger's SSV' broke.
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That other stuff you posted only proves you didn't understand any of my previous posts regarding the length of heating path.
How did your element break again?
Let's settle this and stop the trash talking in this thread?
I emailed 7th floor for their take on the matter.
So there you have it. Pull on your heating element to your hearts content, everybody happy now?
Anyway I have difficulty using a SSV with a water tool, does anyone else find they only get wispy hits unless hitting it dry? I am willing to believe I am still bad at my SSV technique
Not quite, but far too many. We don't need to see it again.
Tell him nothing. This squabble has had more than enough back-and-forths. Please, both of you move on before I'm forced to hand out warning points.
Edit: You should also stop because in my head I can't help substituting something else for "element" in in all these posts.
Vitolo
Vaporist
I have been been told directly by 7th Floor that if a unit is not running hot enough.... Be sure that the element is pulled up all the way. The more red hot element exposed in the visible glass HC, the better.
Yes... you lower the element for the Nail Kit... but that is ONLY for clearance between nail and glass.
The red hot portion of ceramic element is what is heating the air within the HC, and the exposed red hot element is what the air must passover from the lower hole, on it's travel out the HC tip.
moving screen does not do the same thing. The screen movement is responsible for a slight variation of 5º range, while the element accounts for 10º but up to 40º.
(words from developer of the SSV)
I left him, so that the gradual elimination of my face would not be too bad a shock for friends.
On you "p.s." ... you are welcome.
Once I found a path to comfort and contentment, I wanted to help others.
If I ever helped you ... my job is done for a lifetime.... and anything beyond that is a blessing.
I live in a state of joy.
Yes, I have been told I look like Bogey, since I aged.
Before that I was told different celebs... most of my same National Background/Ethnicity.
My wife is a doll. Besides the greatest person in the world, she is the best looking gal I know.
Yes... you lower the element for the Nail Kit... but that is ONLY for clearance between nail and glass.
The red hot portion of ceramic element is what is heating the air within the HC, and the exposed red hot element is what the air must passover from the lower hole, on it's travel out the HC tip.
They would do so because it is advised by 7th Floor.
moving screen does not do the same thing. The screen movement is responsible for a slight variation of 5º range, while the element accounts for 10º but up to 40º.
(words from developer of the SSV)
True.
Thanks... I did not mean to add to the melee'.
Now I think I am feeling a bit ill.
My old avatar is buried in the center of my new avatar.
I left him, so that the gradual elimination of my face would not be too bad a shock for friends.
On you "p.s." ... you are welcome.
Once I found a path to comfort and contentment, I wanted to help others.
If I ever helped you ... my job is done for a lifetime.... and anything beyond that is a blessing.
I live in a state of joy.
Yes, I have been told I look like Bogey, since I aged.
Before that I was told different celebs... most of my same National Background/Ethnicity.
My wife is a doll. Besides the greatest person in the world, she is the best looking gal I know.
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tuk
Well-Known Member
What is the temperature of Exit's unit Vitolo?
What temperature should it be?
Does 7th floor use a modified screen...No.
Completely & utterly wrong.
Both you and 7th do not use the modified screen but here you are presenting yourself/them as some kind of authority....kinda laughable really.
If this was a default setup you might have a point, but it's not so you don't.
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420quickscope
New Member
http://americas.kyocera.com/kicc/pdf/Kyocera Ceramic Heaters.pdf
^^^^
This link shows the thermal distribution of the part.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...a-Metallic-Ceramic-Heating_636399608.html?s=p
http://www.induceramic.com/industri...alumina-metallic-ceramic-heating-element-htcc
^^^ More info.
