tuk
Well-Known Member
21.164394433764265%
Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
21.164394433764265%
syrupy
Authorized Buyer
Yeah, that's the exact scenario I started with try to estimate a small run that made me wonder. If a 1/4 is $100 and yields only a little more than a gram... then it seems that paying for a 60 gram of shatter is the better deal for my situation? Of course there's other factors like being curious about qwiso washes just for try them out...
Zips go for about that here also, but a few times a year they do all-top-shelf-zip-$200 sales. Wish I got more Sour Bubble, but the Blueberry was just too good.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
hahaha oh man, you guys badly missed an earlier post where i answered this question lol. Let me clarify again - this was first run only!!!! I typically get closer to 20g return from 2oz. I guarantee you i get more out of each oz than your dispensary.
Again, qwiso, first wash. There are still many more yields from those same 2oz
Again, qwiso, first wash. There are still many more yields from those same 2oz
NickDlow
Log Hog
So I decided to invest and start making my own bho. I just bought some equipment.
2 Gallon Vacuum Chamber with 3CFM Two Stage Pump
14-21g extraction tube
3 50 micron n 3 75 micron screens (what's the recommended size for the screen/filter)
Pyrex dishes
Power 5x butane
Skillet
Temp gun
Concentrate pad for the vac
Big outdoor area!!!!!
I kno it prob sounds like a noob setup but that's why I'm on this thread so please If anyone has suggestions on more equipment or technique I'm all ears
Thanks FC fam
2 Gallon Vacuum Chamber with 3CFM Two Stage Pump
14-21g extraction tube
3 50 micron n 3 75 micron screens (what's the recommended size for the screen/filter)
Pyrex dishes
Power 5x butane
Skillet
Temp gun
Concentrate pad for the vac
Big outdoor area!!!!!
I kno it prob sounds like a noob setup but that's why I'm on this thread so please If anyone has suggestions on more equipment or technique I'm all ears
Thanks FC fam
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you have almost everything you need there man, I'll let someone better versed in butane than I am let you know if you need anything else though
Use 2 unbleached coffee filters or lab filter paper on the end of the tube, then the 50 micron screen.
NickDlow
Log Hog
Will do thanks
hishighness
Well-Known Member
(continuing from this post but no longer talking about QWET specifically so thought I'd move it here)
My question now is what is it that affects clarity?
For my second wash I did it much longer and then set it in the freezer to precipitate (winterize) but when I filtered that there was literally nothing filtered out so I don't think it's waxes/lipids. Not green so don't think it's chlorophyll either. Right now as I think about it, is it the trichrome heads? As in is it required to use fresh material if you want it to be clear? Another kid I asked said that kief runs always turn out darker but I don't get why that would be.
Another thing I'm wondering is what exactly is happening when you release full vacuum and the bubble muffins go down?
I assume it's ethanol evapping out when the bubbles get big but do they need to pop for it to get out? I was just doing full vac and every so often I'd release vacuum because I figured when the muffin goes down the gas can then escape but not sure.
And just a last note, I found a very efficient way to get shatter off your paper using this guy's method (start at 6:32):
You just roll the sheet over the edge of a table/whatever and the shatter comes off clean, was honestly shocked at how well it worked.
I got to do my first fully vacuum purged run with ~6-7 g kief in and got 2.5 grams out (first wash). Very happy with the consistency (completely stable and snaps) but obviously the color is meh (guessing if this was a full thick slab it'd be almost black not sure though).Took me several weeks but finally have a decent output!
Managed to get all the proper equipment (vacuum oven/slick sheets/buchner funnel) so I could actually run a decent amount of material easily (compared to what I was doing before this is actually pretty easy now) - I'm still waiting on my vacuum pump to arrive but should be here this week. You can see there's lots of bubbles in there, I've been purging at ~100*F and I think they won't pop at that temp until I get a vacuum (Skunk Pharm reported their bubbles refusing to pop until 115*). I would flip if I could but got no idea how to do that.
Right now the oil is actually pretty solid (can touch it no problem) but very flaky and comes off in bits in pieces (rather than like a slab), honestly my biggest problem so far is definitely just transferring the damn stuff! I thought the point of slick sheet was not having the scrape but just pressing and wiping worked like shit for me. I'm going to try it on a heat pad next time like this guy:
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I hit this stuff out the healthstone and idk if it was placebo or what but it didn't feel like a dab normally does (where I get very clear and alert high), it felt like I just took a fat snap of kief and I got real real stoned, like it was legitimately tough to think clearly and knocked me the fuck out. Definitely not complaining though!
My question now is what is it that affects clarity?
For my second wash I did it much longer and then set it in the freezer to precipitate (winterize) but when I filtered that there was literally nothing filtered out so I don't think it's waxes/lipids. Not green so don't think it's chlorophyll either. Right now as I think about it, is it the trichrome heads? As in is it required to use fresh material if you want it to be clear? Another kid I asked said that kief runs always turn out darker but I don't get why that would be.
Another thing I'm wondering is what exactly is happening when you release full vacuum and the bubble muffins go down?
I assume it's ethanol evapping out when the bubbles get big but do they need to pop for it to get out? I was just doing full vac and every so often I'd release vacuum because I figured when the muffin goes down the gas can then escape but not sure.
And just a last note, I found a very efficient way to get shatter off your paper using this guy's method (start at 6:32):
Silver420Surfer
Downward spiral
I can say for a fact you may be able to hold an SCS Omni after 1 or 2 dabs, but it WILL get too hot at some point. I am a serial chain-dabber sometimes, so it may be just that. Whenever I use my Omni, I still use it with an adapter so my GonG joints don't take a beating.
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
Looks good, very expensive though, and rather tall. I've got a new-vape nail on the way. I tried a clone of the HE Infiniti, which is pretty nice, great heat retention, but takes a while to heat up. I'm hoping this new smaller nail will have enough retention for my mini dabs, but heat up quicker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-Na...-2-Gr2-Domeless-Female-nail-USA-/151263519132
Just curious, why would you want to heat a nail whilst holding it?
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
I have noted a lot of folks recommending using adapters to protect their rigs, and you mention GonG joints taking a beating. This is all new to me, as it was never an issue when combusting. What kind of damage/wear might one expect with everyday use?
I ask, because I use a rig with no adapter. And I really like the glass (SB Travel Bubbler) and don't want to cause any damage. I use a Benzomatic torch roughly the size of a Vector Minitro, nothing too big.
Are there any signs that might indicate damage? What should I be looking for? Pics would be great.
I ask, because I use a rig with no adapter. And I really like the glass (SB Travel Bubbler) and don't want to cause any damage. I use a Benzomatic torch roughly the size of a Vector Minitro, nothing too big.
Are there any signs that might indicate damage? What should I be looking for? Pics would be great.
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
A male nail, especially Titanium, due to it's higher degree of expansion, could crack a joint. An adapter creates a thermal break of sorts that slows down heat transfer to the piece, and also introduces a disposable part that is easily replaced. I prefer not to use adapters when possible, mostly for aesthetics. Also, with a tiny rig, they can put the nail too high.
Female nails tend to get stuck, expanding and then moving slightly down the joint, so that when they cool, they are difficult to remove. I was never comfortable using a male nail without an adapter, but I haven't had a problem with the female ones. The founder of HE advises giving them a slight "lift" with a dabber occasionally.
Direct inject nails solve this problem nicely, inexpensive, low heat transfer, no risk of sticking or cracking, and the domeless ones channel the claim down the center so there's no mess on the joint or the outside of the nail. They also keep the nail as low as possible. I've found I like titanium though, so unless I go with a dome, I have to use a fitted nail.
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TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
I wish I could send you guys jars and get back vials!
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
Yeah, it's tempting to see this stuff, and what can be bought at a shop in Cali or Co. We just have to wait......sigh. It's coming though.
MileHighLife
Blower of glass, grower of grass
(continuing from this post but no longer talking about QWET specifically so thought I'd move it here)
I got to do my first fully vacuum purged run with ~6-7 g kief in and got 2.5 grams out (first wash). Very happy with the consistency (completely stable and snaps) but obviously the color is meh (guessing if this was a full thick slab it'd be almost black not sure though).
My question now is what is it that affects clarity?
For my second wash I did it much longer and then set it in the freezer to precipitate (winterize) but when I filtered that there was literally nothing filtered out so I don't think it's waxes/lipids. Not green so don't think it's chlorophyll either. Right now as I think about it, is it the trichrome heads? As in is it required to use fresh material if you want it to be clear? Another kid I asked said that kief runs always turn out darker but I don't get why that would be.
Another thing I'm wondering is what exactly is happening when you release full vacuum and the bubble muffins go down?
I assume it's ethanol evapping out when the bubbles get big but do they need to pop for it to get out? I was just doing full vac and every so often I'd release vacuum because I figured when the muffin goes down the gas can then escape but not sure.
And just a last note, I found a very efficient way to get shatter off your paper using this guy's method (start at 6:32):
You just roll the sheet over the edge of a table/whatever and the shatter comes off clean, was honestly shocked at how well it worked.
Darker coloring usually means that you have a lot of chlorophyll in your oil. I don't do qwet or qwiso runs but I'm pretty sure the suggested soak time is 20 seconds to avoid getting too much chlorophyll in your end product. Again I've never done a qwiso or qwet run but I think I've also read to put your alcohol in the freezer before the run because at lower temps less chlorophyll is extracted.
As for the bubbles going down when you release vacuum ... the only reason the solvent is evaporating out of your run at the temps you're at is because it is under vacuum. As soon as you release the vacuum the atmospheric pressure rushes back into the chamber making that large bubble into a small bubble which is most likely still in your oil.
Edit for spelling like the drunk bastard I am.
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NickDlow
Log Hog
Ok so I'm doing my first bho run tomorrow. I'll be using 12g's of top shelf nug broken down a bit. After I let it sit out and purge I will be scraping it up nd putting it into a 2 gallon vacuum chamber with a 3cfm pump. What should my yield be around? Also what variables should I be in the lookout for? Any help is appreciated thanks
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
If it is top shelf, then you should be getting roughly 2.0-3.0g from that amount after all of the washes.
However, remember that 'top shelf' probably varies a lot from place to place!
However, remember that 'top shelf' probably varies a lot from place to place!