Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

Can you guys help with some noob questions. I recently was able to obtain 3Grams of some good quality black thick molasses like BHO and a Cannon dual coil vape pen. It has dual coils in it with white whicking material. I really had no clue how to use this so I put a small dab on the coils and went to town. I have an EGO variable voltage battery that goes from 3.3 to 4.8. i set it on the lowest setting and I seem to get about 1 really good hit and 2-3 smaller hits before nothing. Is this pretty much the norm? After a bunch of uses the wicks are black and sometimes I can get additional hit or two by rotating it and inverting the ecig. Starting to taste a little burnt maybe.

Is my method correct? Any advice? I have some gentleman's V2 oil atomizers on the way and I was going to give that a try as well. Should i use the same method?

I don't want to buy more parts so I need to make the best of what I have(cannon dual coil and the incoming gentman's V2).

I also have some high quality blue dream wax coming soon that I will be able to try too. Any tips for using this that differ from using BHO in a syringe?

sethhobrin said:

Can you guys help with some noob questions. I recently was able to obtain 3Grams of some good quality black thick molasses like BHO and a Cannon dual coil vape pen. It has dual coils in it with white whicking material. I really had no clue how to use this so I put a small dab on the coils and went to town. I have an EGO variable voltage battery that goes from 3.3 to 4.8. i set it on the lowest setting and I seem to get about 1 really good hit and 2-3 smaller hits before nothing. Is this pretty much the norm? After a bunch of uses the wicks are black and sometimes I can get additional hit or two by rotating it and inverting the ecig. Starting to taste a little burnt maybe.

Is my method correct? Any advice? I have some gentleman's V2 oil atomizers on the way and I was going to give that a try as well. Should i use the same method?

I don't want to buy more parts so I need to make the best of what I have(cannon dual coil and the incoming gentman's V2).

I also have some high quality blue dream wax coming soon that I will be able to try too. Any tips for using this that differ from using BHO in a syringe?

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It sounds like you are directly vaping off of the coils rather than wicking the bho first, followed by vaping it. The way you did it works, but as you mentioned will only provide one or two goods hits. If you want multiple hits trigger the button quickly so the bho can melt into the wick then try and get a hit. You should be able to get a few more hits (not as milky, but tastier) with this method.

I'm not sure what your coil/wick looks like so that could be influencing the bad taste you are
experiencing. What ohms is this running at? What type of wire is it? I'm assuming the wick is silica, which isn't the best option for bho imo...

I tried melting a couple drops on the coils and even primed it and didn't really get any hit. IIt seems to just melt and fall down somewhere the coil can't vape it or something. the only way I can seem to get a hit is putting it on the coil and then taking a couple hits that way.

Here is what I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANNON-Repl...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1e892c245f

I have an EGO C Twist 1300 for the battery. It has 3.3 - 4.8 v. I have no idea on ohms.

I have some gentlemen's hash oil atomizer's coming. are these better? http://www.gentlemansvapes.com/products/hash-oil-atomizer

Any tips with these products? I think maybe the burned taste is when I crank it up for too high for too long. I'm not sure what temp or how long to heat this thing. These finger details are lacking from youtube videos and comments.

sethhobrin said:

I tried melting a couple drops on the coils and even primed it and didn't really get any hit. IIt seems to just melt and fall down somewhere the coil can't vape it or something. the only way I can seem to get a hit is putting it on the coil and then taking a couple hits that way.

Here is what I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANNON-Repl...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1e892c245f

I have an EGO C Twist 1300 for the battery. It has 3.3 - 4.8 v. I have no idea on ohms.

I have some gentlemen's hash oil atomizer's coming. are these better? http://www.gentlemansvapes.com/products/hash-oil-atomizer

Any tips with these products? I think maybe the burned taste is when I crank it up for too high for too long. I'm not sure what temp or how long to heat this thing. These finger details are lacking from youtube videos and comments.

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that is silica wick in there. it tastes burnt because you may have held the power on for too long. this will burn the silica wick. after silica is burnt it will continue to taste that way.

you should read through this thread and consider changing to an atomizer that can be rebuilt. that way you can choose what materials go into it.

Darb said:

Has anybody found this ceramic wick in Canada?

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Not going to happen, it is subject to federal export controls. $750,000 fine per incident.

@sethhobrin this can't work well. The problem is that e-cig gear is designed for a much thinner liquid that can even wick uphill against gravity.

Wax melts to oil, same thing. H2o hash etc contain a lot more vegetable matter and don't melt clean.

There are a lot of setups sold under different brands. Most are useless. What matters is the principles.

There are two approaches favored here. One is to apply some wax/oil directly to the coil and pulse the button (to keep the temp down). The excess oil drips to the deck and is reclaimed - or wasted. People use mostly rebuildable dripping atomizers. Too high a temp and the stuff gets burned, just like e-cig juice. Once burned it gunks up and makes the wick taste bad. Silica is glass so it doesn't burn like cotton etc, but it can melt at high temp, and wax/oil residue tastes nasty - time to rebuild or replace the coil/wick.

There are some tricks to keeping the melted oil in contact with the coil, like using specific atomizers. But wicking is never very good, the melting wax dribbles off, so it's usually one or two hits before servicing the assembly, kind of like a nail. Most people on this thread are into this approach.

The other way is to add a little of a glycol blend to make the oil less viscous, a bit more like e-cig juice. Ej-Mix does this well at about 20-30%. A big 30 ml bottle costs $30 and lasts a long time. Then you can use the better short wick bottom feeder clearomizers, but again don't push it, always give time for the oil to thin from the heat and feed the wick and coil. It takes practice.

Many variables. BUD type clearos work fair, as do Kanger Mini protanks. Leaks are common in hot weather. Take some time to experiment using small amounts and get a feel for what works best for you.

Instead of thinning supermelts, some people use Pure Gold, which works as-is, no glycols needed, but is expensive and has a little different effect.

do these look of any decent quality? especially the first?

http://www.ineedhemp.com/CompleteVaporizerKits.html#.U7woBnMo7qA

farscaper said:

do these look of any decent quality? especially the first?

http://www.ineedhemp.com/CompleteVaporizerKits.html#.U7woBnMo7qA

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More discussion here:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/divine-tribe-attys.14455/

Ordered the donut kit today...

very tempted myself here too... 33 smackers for the whole kit is not bad at all

do you all think a thread dedicated to coil builds would be ideal?

or do you think this thread is the place for that stuff?

i ask because not all coils are for that "one hit". some are built to sip on. thoughts?

2clicker said:

do you all think a thread dedicated to coil builds would be ideal?

or do you think this thread is the place for that stuff?

i ask because not all coils are for that "one hit". some are built to sip on. thoughts?

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I think a separate RDA/RBA thread and e juice device thread (like kanger tanks) makes sense but if it's just a higher ohm build why not keep em together?

How have your ReadyXWick stove tops been coming along?

Edit: tried a few myself with both diameters and can't get the wick not to fray. I did put a frayed coil/wick in an RDA and watched the wick glow red then back to white. Also dropped a few dabs worth on it for the hell of it and watched it vape off. Seems like it would be perfect if the wick wouldn't fray.

MileHighLife said:

I think a separate RDA/RBA thread and e juice device thread (like kanger tanks) makes sense but if it's just a higher ohm build why not keep em together?

How have your ReadyXWick stove tops been coming along?

Edit: tried a few myself with both diameters and can't get the wick not to fray. I did put a frayed coil/wick in an RDA and watched the wick glow red then back to white. Also dropped a few dabs worth on it for the hell of it and watched it vape off. Seems like it would be perfect if the wick wouldn't fray.

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the ceramic stovetops, of which i am now calling a "diamondback coil" (looks like a coiled snake), is amazing! it is easily my favorite coil to date.

you need to cut the wick longer and have the ends (the part that frays) extend beyond the bend in the wire. basically bend the wire before you get to the end of the wick. this will stop it from fraying. i will post pics tonight but i think i am going to start a new coil thread. i just feel like this thread isnt about coils only. and that a coil only thread makes sense.

diamond back coils are so hawt right now

2clicker said:

the ceramic stovetops, of which i am now calling a "diamondback coil" (looks like a coiled snake), is amazing! it is easily my favorite coil to date.

you need to cut the wick longer and have the ends (the part that frays) extend beyond the bend in the wire. basically bend the wire before you get to the end of the wick. this will stop it from fraying. i will post pics tonight but i think i am going to start a new coil thread. i just feel like this thread isnt about coils only. and that a coil only thread makes sense.

diamond back coils are so hawt right now

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Nice I'll have to try that out.

The ReadyXWick makes me kind of paranoid though with his disclaimers on both fraying and the wick itself being sent out of the country. Here we are free to pretty much do what we want but in countries with socialized medicine they have much higher restrictions on stuff like that because the government would be paying for the silicosis treatment. I held a piece of freshly cut ReadyXWick (cut very cleanly with super sharp scissors) up to the light and lightly ran my finger across the end that was cut and watched little fibers of the wick fall off and that was an unfrayed wick Again, maybe I'm just paranoid but usually I am quite the opposite.

Interested to see what type of coils we'll see pop up in your new thread

Edit for spelling like a retard

MileHighLife said:

Nice I'll have to try that out.

The ReadyXWick makes me kind of paranoid though with his disclaimers on both fraying, and the wick itself being sent out of the country. Here we are free to pretty much do what we want but in countries with socialized medicine they have much higher restrictions on stuff like that because the government would be paying for the silicosis treatment. I held a piece of freshly cut ReadyXWick (cut very cleanly with super sharp scissors) up to the light and lightly ran my finger across the end that was cut and watched little fibers of the wick fall off and that was an unfrayed wick Again, maybe I'm just paranoyed but usually I am quite the opposite.

Interested to see what type of coils we'll see pop up in your new thread

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yes it frays, but apparently the micron size of each fiber is not small enough to cause any problems... or so RBAsupplies claims. i emailed them about the fraying and they hit me back very quick with a lengthy explanation of why its a non issue.

you could always put a screen or something in your drip tip if you are really concerned with it.

also, on a similar but side note... i am looking into using a TV dart loader top with my RDAs. this will help cool vapor and it also provides a screen of sorts. im going to try to use a drip tip insulator with it if the dart tip is too long.

I agree that coils and wicks need to be set up differently for e-nail and wicked-oil approaches.

well i suppose i will just put there here for now. the sleeved stovetop... or snake coil, or serp coil, or whatever. im using set screws that allow my coil to sit lower. of which allows for a wider coil. very easy to load and clean. really enjoying it.

brand new at 1.32ohms

after about a 1/2g through it

self cleaning

all shiny again!

@2clicker that looks great.

I have a few questions.

1. Will this fit in a normal igo-w or will I need set screws
2. Where can I get the set screws.
3. When making the coil. You just put 28g Kanthal inside the ceramic wick and then spin it so it looks like that?

arrr said:

@2clicker that looks great.

I have a few questions.

1. Will this fit in a normal igo-w or will I need set screws
2. Where can I get the set screws.
3. When making the coil. You just put 28g Kanthal inside the ceramic wick and then spin it so it looks like that?

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1. depends on your cap. i dont have a stock igo-w cap so i cannot say. its likely you can fit one in there w/ the phillips screws, but you may be limited to the OD of the coil.

2. i will post a link to the set screws in a bit.

3. exactly. just thread the wire through the wick (2mm works best) and then wrap it in a stove top style coil. note in order to keep the ends of the wick from fraying you must cut the wick longer than the coil will be. this way you can bend the wire before it comes out of the wick (the wick bends also). that way the end of the wick (where it frays) is not at or on the bend. it should be after the bend... keeping cut end straight. make sense...?

Really like this thread! Been vaping eliquid for over 3 years now. Been getting high for over 15 years.
The dont really sell concentrates in Holland but im gonna get them no matter what. Guess i just have to make them myself.
Regarding to using concentrates i came up with this idea. I have a small atomizer called the IGO-s and its only 14mm wide so its flush on a ego twist. Myself i use 14500 mods with this atty.
With this particular atty the air hole is very low, so just above the juice well. And if u put the wick on the sides and in the back of the coil u have a nice little hole on the floor where u can put the concentrate. Its so low i cant even put a toothpick under it so the concentrate is almost touching the coil and cant go running trough the juice well because of the wick 'wall'. And with lets say a 1.3 ohm micro coil im sure it gets hot enough. Its just and idea i cant test it yet.

arrr said:

Where can I get the set screws.

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i have a set included with your orings!

unfortunately i havent made it to the post office with these yet, but will drop them in the mail tonight.

2clicker said:

i have a set included with your orings!

unfortunately i havent made it to the post office with these yet, but will drop them in the mail tonight.

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Thanks @2clicker

Very cool build 2clicker. I have been experimenting in my Helios to find a build that gets good air flow to the coil.. this looks like it might work. Thanks. If you have any other build ideas, I would love to see them.

bigemmit said:

Very cool build 2clicker. I have been experimenting in my Helios to find a build that gets good air flow to the coil.. this looks like it might work. Thanks. If you have any other build ideas, I would love to see them.

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thanks for the kind words. nothing new to show as of now except maybe my new mech mod. its a logoless King II clone from FT with what they call a matte finish. this mod is machined very well. the seams just seem to disappear. here it is in 18350 mode.

Just created an account to post here after coming across this thread searching for this exact topic. I didn't even realize this was a thing when I first stumbled across it and still seems very new to most everyone. Anyway enough of that, here's my current setup:

• Magneto Mechanical Mod
• Sony 18650 3.7 volt 2100 mah battery
• Helios clone with 26 Ga twisted coil running at .18 ohms - organic cotton wick
• Igo w4 with 26 Ga 6/7 wrap .24 ohms - organic cotton wick

I've been saturating the wick with 0 nic juice and putting the wax directly on the coils obviously. I always have trouble with choosing the right amount and a lot gets absorbed into the cotton or down to the drip plate. It's even worse now that I am trying to use co2 oil. I would also like something that I can use at a concert and hold enough where i don't have to re apply.

I went and bought Cloutank m3 that is sold as a dry herb atomizer but it also comes with a concentrate prebuild coil setup. It seems to do an ok job but the drawbacks are:

• Not compatbile with my mod unless I get an adapter (I bought a kanger EVOD battery to use with this.
• Doesn't hit as hard
• Still doesn't hold that much in co2 oil form.

I have a source orb attachment on the way and am eager to give it a try but I need to try and figure out the best possible setup I can get for this concert tomorrow lol. What do you guys think? I'll post some pics of my setup and what-not later. Thanks all.

@gcarp got any other wick material besides cotton? As far as wicks go it doesn't handle oil that well compared to ekowool, ceramic, or ss mesh.