Arizer Solo

Hey on a separate note I don't think i trust my car chatrgers anymore because i can't help but feel they have something to do with this.

is anyone using a mini VVPS to charge a solo in a car? i really need something different that wont kill my batteries and solos anytmore. im thinking the disappointing lack of regulation in the car chargers themselves is to blame.

18mm fbomb ($135) and the Assassin Necktie 18mm ($99)

How effective is the water tool? I mean could you get just as high with a couple extra sessions dry or something?

crisallin said:

How effective is the water tool? I mean could you get just as high with a couple extra sessions dry or something?

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For me, the water tool cools and seems to add moisture to the hit. Water tools don't make the medicine more effective. They just make it more pleasant to inhale. Really, you can use any glass tool with most all your vaporizers with the proper adapters.

Is the function of the jtag connectors on the solo pcbs known?

I am wondering if I could pull any useful info out of it. I'm sure I probably can't but I am willing to try.

Wondering if it could be a dead heater and if that is something I could fix.

macbill said:

Water tools don't make the medicine more effective. They just make it more pleasant to inhale.

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Well put. They remove some of the harshness, allowing many to take bigger hits. So in that way they're more effective (but not more efficient if you will?).

There's a modest taste penalty sometimes, some feel part of the good stuff is trapped as well, but I don't think that opinion is really widely held? One health benefit should be mentioned, everything trapped in the moisture in your WT isn't trapped in the moisture in your lungs? Vaping still has some useless, annoying junk in it, water helps there I think.

THC is not water soluble. It's typically trapped in Methanol for instance.

OF

exit said:

Is the function of the jtag connectors on the solo pcbs known?

I am wondering if I could pull any useful info out of it. I'm sure I probably can't but I am willing to try.

Wondering if it could be a dead heater and if that is something I could fix.

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Sorry, what are "jtag connectors on the solo pcbs"?

I forget what happens in boot up if the heater or thermistor (temperature sensor) are open, but IIRC it's way out of the ordinary. You should be able to swap the heaters, they're not polarity sensitive and AFAIK electrically the same.

You can just measure the resistance at the cable connections. It should be a few ohms for the heater, a few k, give or take, for the thermistor. Not shorts or opens.

In the event it's an open ('burned out') you're no doubt SOL, the heater assembly is glued together with furnace cement. If the break isn't exposed.......

OF

OF said:

Sorry, what are "jtag connectors on the solo pcbs"?
OF

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No worries. Look at my pics of the exposed solo PCBs. Since they are facing sideways, look at the bottom right corner. You will see five small silver holes in a line. JTAG is a very common, simple, affordable way to program embedded devices. It is very common on electronics using embedded computers especially like this especially.

More likely than not it's how the solos are diagnosed for testing or maybe even loading new firmware as it's just a serial port.

If I wasn't on my phone I would post a pic, but you can google if you really want to see more

exit said:

No worries. Look at my pics of the exposed solo PCBs. Since they are facing sideways, look at the bottom right corner. You will see five small silver holes in a line. JTAG is a very common, simple, affordable way to program embedded devices. It is very common on electronics using embedded computers especially like this especially.

More likely than not it's how the solos are diagnosed for testing or maybe even loading new firmware as it's just a serial port.

If I wasn't on my phone I would post a pic, but you can google if you really want to see more

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Trying to re-program has been brought up in the past. Finding the port on the PCB would only be the start.
Even with a jtag interface adapter, you would still need the source code. No? Or some idea of what data to change.
If you can figure out the re-programming, you'd have a line up of requests. Extending the timeout to be longer would be mine.
Also, having the true PA function back would be cool too. Or having the charge cut off at 95%...etc.
Ohhh the possibilities are endless....

If you can do...go for it, we here would love it!!

All I can say is I've cracked several wireless routers in the past. If I can find anything good I'll post about it.

Does anyone know the shelf life of a new battery?Im talking unused,say I buy an extra battery just in case I need it.Will it still be good x amount of time down the road if it just sits?

OF said:

I forget what happens in boot up if the heater or thermistor (temperature sensor) are open, but IIRC it's way out of the ordinary.

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OK, so I just tried it. Open heaters have the display looking right, just no heat. Open temperature sensors give a long (double) beep then shuts off. No Idle light, only darkness. Not I think what you see?

exit said:

More likely than not it's how the solos are diagnosed for testing or maybe even loading new firmware as it's just a serial port.

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I agree, the chances of it being useful for testing and troubleshooting are slim indeed. Test points are what we want, and then we'd need to be in the know WRT what to expect. I'm sure they're not about to let out with such details.

It can be cracked no doubt, but not by any reasonable effort I think.

BOBCAT said:

Does anyone know the shelf life of a new battery?Im talking unused,say I buy an extra battery just in case I need it.Will it still be good x amount of time down the road if it just sits?

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If it's stored correctly (at about 60% charge, in a cool, dry place) typical numbers are like 10 years to retain 80 or even 90% of original capacity. Even outside that range, provided it's not overly hot, it's still got many years shelf life.

OF

Okay, so what is happening with me and presumably the other faulty m107 owner is this.

When you turn it on it looks normal 50% of the time. The rest of the time the yellow lights immediately go up to 4.

If you set a temperature the light stays there and it just idles like it is about to heat up but never does.

For some reason setting it to 7 makes all 7 lights stay stuck on.

I always have the beeps turned off so I can turn them on to see what it does.

My first Solo went faulty... due to my current living situation i just recycled it having had a happy while with it and i went ahead and bought a new one.

If it's stored correctly (at about 60% charge, in a cool, dry place) typical numbers are like 10 years to retain 80 or even 90% of original capacity. Even outside that range, provided it's not overly hot, it's still got many years shelf life.

OF

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Thank You,The only thing I know about batteries is that the Wife buys lots of them?

Modnote: Edited to place quote tags

BOBCAT said:

Thank You,The only thing I know about batteries is that the Wife buys lots of them?

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Ya got one in yer car, too. Also very useful, just not here.......

You're quite welcome, best wishes.

OF

you know the water tool as the pendant is clutch really dig that

exit said:

When you turn it on it looks normal 50% of the time. The rest of the time the yellow lights immediately go up to 4.

If you set a temperature the light stays there and it just idles like it is about to heat up but never does.

For some reason setting it to 7 makes all 7 lights stay stuck on.

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Woah! Half the time it's just fine, the other half wonkers? Important detail, why? What's the missing factor?

What you're describing is almost certainly (anything is possible?) not anything to do with heater, sensor and most probably the battery (subject to what you say about the common cause of the fault conditions). An honest to God hardware fault even?

How do you 'fix it' (that is get going again)? How many times in a row does it work/fail?

One sneaky one to keep an eye out for if it really is a hardware fault. Intermittent faults in Silicone usually start life as leakage current or gain issues getting marginal. Both respond to temperature. Often putting such dogs in the freezer is a help here, most such problems are better frozen than hot. Sometimes gain ones run the the other way. Noise immunity often tracks temperature as well. You can them, also, put your soldering iron on the bodies of the parts for several seconds (you get a feel for how long), directly over the die, to ID the culprit.......for all the good that will do.

Given the premium guys put on the m107 ceramic bowl you might consider shifting it over to a newer chassis? My guess is it's still just fine.

Too bad it's not battery related (or is it?).

Ansel said:

My first Solo went faulty... due to my current living situation i just recycled it having had a happy while with it and i went ahead and bought a new one.

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Bummer. Your call, of course, I'm sure you made a sound one.

It is, in the end, only a tool. Tools wear out. Yeah, we get attached to them sometimes, but sometimes that just gets in the way of reality and common sense. You 'got your money's worth'? Time to move on.

I hope you enjoy the next one. More, if possible?

Regards,

OF

It can't be a battery thing because I swapped in a known good battery and the same thing. It also doesn't work half the time, it doesn't work at all, it just looks normal half the time despite refusing to heat or start heating.

Either way I'll mess with it some more but if I can't diagnose something simple as a bad solder joint or connection I might declare it dead and just replace it. Before me it had a long life and for a good couple months I put at least 10 cycles on it a day since I got it. If nothing else it died doing its job.

It is worth noting it was bumping around inside a bag before it started doing this so I feel I should look for a bad connection...

edit: Tried unscrewing the PCB but cant find any way to get it out. anyone know how to remove the pcb so i can touch up some oslder joints?

BOBCAT said:

Thank You,The only thing I know about batteries is that the Wife buys lots of them?

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I had to read that twice to get it ...

Sup guys. GF ordering my solo either today or tomorrow for my b-day. Also just tried to contact vapednconfused about a solo gong attachment because planet vape hasnt had stock forever. Oh, the excitement.

Disney said:

Sup guys. GF ordering my solo either today or tomorrow for my b-day. Also just tried to contact vapednconfused about a solo gong attachment because planet vape hasnt had stock forever. Oh, the excitement.

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Welcome to the Forum, congrats on picking a GF with good taste (aside from liking you, of course.....). You might point out the sooner she orders it the sooner you'll have it and start feeling guilty about not doing something nice for her.......

Don't buy into that 'PV never has them' line. They definitely do (we got ours from somewhere.....) they just don't last in stock very long. For reasons I think are plain to all? Sometimes only a matter of hours, sometimes for several days, but they get snapped up very quickly......go figure. There have even been threads created to collectively watch for it to happen.

So, while you enjoy your new Solo, keep an eye on PV and be ready to jump on it fast when the opportunity comes.

Regards,

OF

Yeah. VapednConfused is making custom solo gongs so hopefully he gets back to me soon as well. For the past couple of years I've only consumed concentrates but with the new ordinance that might be passed that bans concentrates, I've decided to go back to the sweet sweet flower.

OF said:

The glass stems I have here (several stock and PVHES offerings all seem to be in the .570 to .574 range, and slightly out of round.

OF

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Great stuff, been looking for these numbers as I'm about to get a UK glass blower to make me a GonG or two. I'm quite surprised how small the size range is - guess best to aim for 14.5mm OD. I wonder if they're blown into a 15mm hole then with cooling you might loose half a mm..?
I'm going to give him my broken gong and never-used bent stem anyway to do a bowl swap over for my broken gong bowl, and he can take a look at the built in screen set up to see if it (or similar) can be replicated easily, otherwise I guess they'll end up like the Turbo/Ed's stems with the open bore all the way up and a ss screen. I'd rather have the glass screens included if possible...
Another option I was originally planning to do was to just to pick up a few stock straight stems and get him to shorten them and stick a 14mm male joint on the end and a few blobs to grab hold of, that would get the glass screen, correct size, and for the sake of 2-3 gongs it's probably not worth worrying about the extra expense.

CarlosSpiceyWeiner said:

Just received my Pipes solo stand from puffitup.

I love it! Way smaller than i expected.

@Pipes. Is it safe to leave the charger and stand plugged in? Until I'm ready to charge the solo?

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Don't tease, I have to wait until mine makes it all the way over here before getting to enjoy it... Good question though, @OF @Pipes currently I use my solo with a PA almost exlusively - I have old style "no heat and charge" version - and unplug the jack from the bottom after each session. Any adverse effects if i start to leave it on idle while it's in it's stand instead of unplugging the jack..? Positives would be less wear and tear to the jack port I guess...

Thanks

Gray Area said:

I wonder if they're blown into a 15mm hole then with cooling you might loose half a mm..?
I'm going to give him my broken gong and never-used bent stem anyway to do a bowl swap over for my broken gong bowl, and he can take a look at the built in screen set up to see if it (or similar) can be replicated easily, otherwise I guess they'll end up like the Turbo/Ed's stems with the open bore all the way up and a ss screen. I'd rather have the glass screens included if possible...

Any adverse effects if i start to leave it on idle while it's in it's stand instead of unplugging the jack..? Positives would be less wear and tear to the jack port I guess...

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My understanding of the usual process is to blow the tube out into a blind hole in graphite. It has to not fuse with the glass, take the heat and not sink heat away too fast and cause stress in the glass. Similar to the process used in other products, but more demanding due to the small diameter. Such tools last a while and are easy to make.

You might consider giving him that silly aroma therapy 'dish' thing, at least one member got his local glass guy to weld on a GonG and punch a hole in the partition for him. A glass screen is nice, of course, but I bet most guys use screens anyway? Most anything (tab, ring, lip, etc.) would stop the screen, doming it a bit keeps it from falling out.

The battery on your Solo will slowly discharge at idle in PA mode. It will use power at the same rate it does when heating since it's control power. The processor is on, running the display, monitoring the battery, reading and displaying the temperature, scanning the keyboard for commands and so on same as it would if you added 'run the heater if you need to'. From it's POV all you've done is select zero heating. It will still cycle every 12 minutes. As long as you keep track of the battery charge (and top up as needed) there's no immediate issue aside from that I see.

Best wishes in your endeavors.

OF

Yeah, good call. I'd forgotten about that aromatherapy bowl thingy they give you.

On a side note I spoke too soon about having to wait for my @Pipes stand. It arrived today. Six days to the UK pretty fast in my book.
Great bit if kit, so nice to be able to stand to solo up while using the PA with my PNWT and takes all the stress off the cable when it's inverted in a bubbler...

All the extras that get thrown in too lol the parcel was like a magicians top hat, I just kept pulling stuff out of there. Nice one.

Highly recommended if you use your solo plugged in for any amount if time