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Oil rig discussion thread

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
I just this thread and had lots to say but forgot to multi quote so excuse my rambling
If anyone is worried about heat transfer to the joint, just get an infiniti nail, I can take a dab while holding the base. Also when the cup gets too oxidized is much cheaper than replacing the entire domeless nail. Also with the direct injection of the threads the joint doesn't get sticky. This was probably my best dab investment.

Drop downs catch lots of claim because it collects little drips of claim that come out/off of your nail. This is especially true for enails which is where I see them the most because they are always hot. It also protects your glass.

Last but not least here are all my babies. Starting in the far back going clockwise: Bates x Worm diffusion pump, $lumgold chop top, Geoff Platt recycler, Toro mac 8, Sandalz pendant recycler & Johnny Landini mini tube

tmDzKcD.jpg

That Geoff Platt recycler looks like it's ready for use with the seasoned nail and carb cap at the ready.

I had to go back and look at your posts about the Johnny Landini on the New Acquisitions thread. That is one crazy crazy bottom!
 

Herr_Dampf

Well-Known Member
@syrupy I can agree with you on the fact that a large female joint can look oversized on some of these new little rigs. I borrowed this picture from @Herr_Dampf of his awesome new incycler and as much as I love it that joint does look like a bit much. Perhaps 14mm female would be better for a rig. I just feel like with the way that things have evolved we could have just skipped the step of making rigs with male joints. Also I am not familiar with people heating nails and then placing them on the rig. That seems dangerous
FlXy3vW.jpg

The joint is, indeed, too much. The thing is the piece was never planned to turn out like this. It's not an oil rig, but meant for use with vapes like the Nano and as such, should have been able to support its weight. As it is, it's just able to support the joint (just don't bump into it*g*). In retrospect, I wish I hadn't asked for a 18mm, allthough I doubt a 14 would have made much difference.

My oil rig is even smaller than that (14mm joint):
2gy7d5l.jpg
 

clouded vision

Well-Known Member
If the gold fuming comes off from regular cleaning (or at all for that matter) I would stop using it and contact the blower for a refund. That absolutely should not happen and shows he did not know what he was doing when fuming glass. Gold is not easy to fume but if you aren't sure what you're doing with it you should practice on pieces that aren't for customer orders then sell them as clearly labeled seconds and warn the fuming could potentially come off as they were practice pieces.
 

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
If the gold fuming comes off from regular cleaning (or at all for that matter) I would stop using it and contact the blower for a refund. That absolutely should not happen and shows he did not know what he was doing when fuming glass. Gold is not easy to fume but if you aren't sure what you're doing with it you should practice on pieces that aren't for customer orders then sell them as clearly labeled seconds and warn the fuming could potentially come off as they were practice pieces.

I've been thinking about this a lot lately, trying to learn more about gold and silver fume. If one already has a fumed rig, can it be 'stress-tested' with PBW, or is it better to let sleeping dogs lie? The piece in question has only seen water, no cleaners of any kind.

Edit: @clouded vision you should check out the pics of @Herr_Dampf 's piece post-fume. It's strange because it looks like it came off very evenly, not in strips like I'd expect?

Edit 2: I've gotten to take the little nano Bird sidecar around the block a few times. I REALLY like the 10mm size more than I expected. The long sidecar mouthpiece keeps the water where it belongs. I thought a 10mm nail would be too small to use, but it's perfect for a single dab, plus it heats up quickly. If anyone knows a good source for worked 10mm domes, please let me know. :)
 
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clouded vision

Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about this a lot lately, trying to learn more about gold and silver fume. If one already has a fumed rig, can it be 'stress-tested' with PBW, or is it better to let sleeping dogs lie? The piece in question has only seen water, no cleaners of any kind.

I don't see why not. When a piece is properly fumed, the color will be set into the glass not just adhered to the outside of it. No cleaner is going to change the structure of the glass and strip fuming out if it was done properly. I know I would be pissed if the fuming on my $500 toro came off or even faded for any reason, let alone just cleaning with a relatively non-aggressive cleaning agent.
 

Soflo

Only birdshit and fools
Clouded, if the glass isn't heated well before you spray the gold on it, it will come off. This appears to be fumed on the inside with both gold and silver. usually fuming won't come off with just water, sometime's you can scrape it off, but being on the inside it doesn't get abused often, the fuming is also not encased. I would be suspect of the pbw. Because he said the pink and yellow came off. Silver (yellow) is a bitch to remove or burn off so I suspect something else is going on here. incorrect temp before fuming could be a culprit, but you usually just don't see silver coming off under any normal conditions.
 

clouded vision

Well-Known Member
@Soflo if done slowly and properly shouldn't the fuming be baked into the glass itself? PBW shouldn't be able to strip a properly fumed piece, seems to me like the glass probably wasn't hot enough before he started fuming so it only adhered to the very outer (inner because it is inside out) part of the glass? I don't have any personal experience with glass blowing but I have seen some pretty big names working and done a fair bit of researching techniques because I've always been interested in how they are able to make different designs and patterns.
 

Caligula

Maximus
I'll have more to say on rigs later today after I pass out and wake up again. For now though...

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-47571.html

" A note of caution however; internally fumed pipes, typically referred to as inside out or double blown are susceptible to fume “wash out” when cleaned with a strong cleaner that includes solvents. Surface fume is melted into the glass and will not wash out, while internal fume cannot be adequately melted in due the inability to really get the flame inside the piece at a 90 degree angle for optimum melt. If the fume is washed out, the pipe will no longer color change. Check the label. Any alcohol based cleaner (more than 50% alcohol content), or cleaners that include petro-chemical based ingredients (gasoline, diesel fuel, lighter fluid to name a few) will probably wash out the internal fume."
 

Soflo

Only birdshit and fools
@clouded vision, yes it can be done if heated properly before applying the fuming. But it also can and will wash off some of the fuming that didn't get heated into the glass all the way. Gold is a particular little bitch to make work. If you heat it up too much it makes the pink an opaque color, not enough heat and you get the beautiful clear pink, but it can wash off sometimes. Or at least parts of it. silver on the other hand should not wash off under any normal circumstances, especially if it's been heated. I personally wouldn't use chemicals pbw/whatever on an inside out fumed piece that the fuming isn't encased. Otherwise you will be risking losing some of the fuming.
 

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
I'll have more to say on rigs later today after I pass out and wake up again. For now though...

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-47571.html

" A note of caution however; internally fumed pipes, typically referred to as inside out or double blown are susceptible to fume “wash out” when cleaned with a strong cleaner that includes solvents. Surface fume is melted into the glass and will not wash out, while internal fume cannot be adequately melted in due the inability to really get the flame inside the piece at a 90 degree angle for optimum melt. If the fume is washed out, the pipe will no longer color change. Check the label. Any alcohol based cleaner (more than 50% alcohol content), or cleaners that include petro-chemical based ingredients (gasoline, diesel fuel, lighter fluid to name a few) will probably wash out the internal fume."

Good stuff. Needs to be cross-posted to the PBW thread I think. So he's just recommending salt and dishwashing soap, not even ISO?! What research I've done into this reads a lot like the comments below the thread posted above-- lots of disagreements, even between blowers. Makes me want to just give up cleaning fumed pieces altogether.

What wasn't touched upon in the discussion was potential health issues with fuming washing out. I know the fume is basically gold and silver vapor, which has to be toxic if inhaled. When fuming strips, could there be a problem there? Seems like there would have been more mention of this if it's a concern?
 
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