kushcabbage
vapor nerd
won't ever torch my quality concentrate ruining all the tasty terps right before I like to vape it.. another downside to the EO cart
Discontinued Thermovape Luna
- Thread starter Rocco
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
I agree overheating it is not good, but guess I don't follow the other part? How is this "another downside"? You don't have to torch it, right? I thought that was the point.
Maybe you could refresh me on the other downsides? I can't seem to call them to mind right now. TIA
OF
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I agree, not torching to load is a good idea. As is overloading (or underloading for that matter). I guess I don't see that as a downside as much as the way to use it? That is the way it was intended to work.
Heavy cleaning is always going to be an issue at some point. Tied in with quality of the goods of course. I think, in general, EO cores can go from many dozens of grams of poor quality oil to several ounces of clean stuff between rebuilds ($15?). Perhaps a case of one man's downside being another's excellent service life? The carts will probably die eventually too.
The Ti carts are intended to address this with a 'home remedy' option, but IMO a ground up rebuild is a much better deal. You can get several of them (rebuilds) for the cost savings and torching is only going to go so far, the ash is still trapped inside and much of what was there is now burnt. And of course, the '20/20/20 burn' is an intermediate option open to all. With the same drawbacks WRT residue, only more so. Torching is an improvement I think, but not the cure the rebuild (or replacement) is.
Thanks again. For most guys I think the EO cart is a top option if you're looking for that sort of stuff? Good compromises.
OF
Yes, it definitely works better, but it seems applying flame defeats the whole purpose of vaping......
The T1 was awesome with heat up time....took less than 10 seconds to get good rips
OF
Well-Known Member
Yup, but let's remember it did it by brute force, twice the power of Cera carts. Remember how it burns through those lovely RCR123As.....one of the things we wanted 'fixed'. We got 5 times the battery life, but it now takes several seconds longer to get going. However, since it retains heat better, subsequent hits need less time at step 1 and 2. And eliminated the need to stir.
Part of the trade offs. I too like to haul the T1 out from time to time, neat machine.
OF
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
I just apply heat to it far enough so the flame does not get close to the wax. I wait till it melts a little then I take it off
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
sorry mate but video is listed private
masaki
Well-Known Member
masaki
Well-Known Member
c76man
In search of the best terps and smoothest vapor
Just got a Luna today thanks to a fellow FC member. So far, loaded easily, works flawlessly. I am super happy. Performance very similar to my Cera EO, but with a smaller form factor and much more ergonomic. I think my Cera heats up 3-4 seconds faster, but that's pretty inconsequential. Just thought I share my positive experience.
Severmore
Well-Known Member
Yes...from my experience, it sounds like your cart is slightly too short. I've recently had my carts serviced again and they both work great. It appears TET lengthened them both and that has solved my misfiring issues for the time being.
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
Anyone know all the alen wrench sizes to tighten the cartridge
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
glad you are enjoying it, she's a fine machine when she is well oiled and mastered. Already miss her.
@OF will know, 0.05 or something similar, very small one indeed. I have mine somewhere.. but I think it has said before tampering with the EO core could void a warranty.
OF
Well-Known Member
Yup, and .050 ain't it. And no, you shouldn't mess with the screws. If you're not trained you can wreck the cartridge.
http://static.squarespace.com/static/50a81e35e4b05bdedbd6e621/t/5398d731e4b0719132a65eb5/1402525489657/Luna User Manualcomp.pdf
Notice they said it twice? Once near the middle, once at the end. They think it's important, have said so many times, and so do I.
The carts are supposed to be loose, they have to be able to change size with heat, leave the little screws alone.
OF
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
That's the size that fits, but once again, don't try to tighten the screws. They won't make it any tighter (there's no head on the screw and the hole in the cover is oversize on purpose). Tighten them too much and you destroy the thread (it's only a bit less than one complete turn) and short the top part of the heater out......fatally to the cart.
Your call, of course, you own it, but IMO not good advice. I agree with the maker. As an owner you have no use for that tool. Save your money......and a lot of grief.
OF
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
Do you know if adjusting the hex screw that contacts the switch plate is okay to do?
I get the black char mark on both the switch plate and the screw head, wouldn't this indicate it is too short and there isn't enough contact?...and that loosening the screw slightly would lengthen the piece enough for better contact...
OF
Well-Known Member
The one in the center? Absolutely don't mess with that at all after the heater has been fired the first time. There are two ceramic washers on the screw (you can see the outside one) that keep the screw centered and isolated by sitting in wells in the base piece. Then there's a tiny nut you can't reach from the outside that would otherwise spin (lucky for us as the 'washer stack' has to stay stacked tight). Then, and here's the really bad part for this idea, the heater lead threads onto the screw for 3 turns which jams the nut but it also fuses to the SS screw threads when heated and the metal structure changes making the heater wire stronger but more brittle. Once fired up, you have to rip the heater out to get to the screw stub and nut (meaning a new heater element of course.
And, of course, the heater has been fired a dozen times or more by the time you get it between building the core and assembling/testing the total unit.
This is what that 'custom fitting' is about. Different thickness shims (actually different thickness outer ceramic washers I think in the end?) move the screw tip in and out but must be correct before the heater is fired (or even fitted for practical purposes). Adjustments here call for new heaters (having ripped the original out by the root, literally).
IMO this is (attaching the heater to the screw) is the hardest part of LL cores, second to fitting the heater in the cores in EO (which I'm not to be trusted on, mine don't stay well centered in use). Feeling the threading of the heater lead onto that tiny screw down in the cavity in the screw base those 3 full turns is the key skill. The spiral of the lead is slightly undersize of course but opens up as you thread so it will go on if well centered and not forced......however, backing off causes the spiral to tighten and grip the threads like grim death. Even without heating you usually can't back it off past the first turn or so, yanking it out and trying again is the only recourse. If you're not very careful with the end (start of threads) you're SOL big time.
Definitely leave that screw in the center alone. If you turn it, it won't unthread (the nut will spin with the screw) but the heater will stick to the screw at the bottom and you will pull it out of line if it doesn't break all together. It won't change that length but will make a big old mess.
Sorry for the long answer, but hey, you asked.....now you know as much as me?
OF
Thanks OF, that was about as thorough of an answer as I could have asked for.....
By the way, are there any pictures of these cores anywhere that show the internals? The CAD drawing in the user manual kind of shows it........ it would be beneficial for users to have a visual of whats going on in there.....
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