Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO

@Fame Is A Vapor - Is the Purple Power flammable? If not it might be just the ticket for my ultrasonic cleaner, I know its enzyme based . . .

Edit Nice tutorial :)
There is no FLAMMABLE warning on the bottle. The only warning is for POISON if swallowed. I imagine it's safe for your ultrasonic cleaner. I'd be interested to hear how it works for you.

I'll admit Purple Power is not what I thought it was going to be (a SOAK & RINSE miracle) but it definitely aids in softening the hard plaque, and I think a higher temp and vibration would only help towards that end. I have yet to change out any PP in my graduated cylinders, it's not dirty at all.

I think this 16oz bottle is going to last me a lifetime unless I accidentally spill something along the way.
 
Fame Is A Vapor,
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elmomuzz

That just happened...
I put ISO in my ultrasonic cleaner. Never had a problem. I even microwave a small cup of ISO until it boils to help with the cleaning.
 
elmomuzz,
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I put ISO in my ultrasonic cleaner. Never had a problem. I even microwave a small cup of ISO until it boils to help with the cleaning.

Make sure there's no metal in that microwave! :tinfoil:

I'll admit to having microwaved Ziploc bags of ISO for 5 secs at a time before, but they were always CLOSED. I'll also admit to having assumed this was incredibly stupid to do and that I was just seconds away from blowing myself up. I did it anyway because ... I needed my (insert glass piece here) CLEAN dammit! :mental: Priorities.
 

elmomuzz

That just happened...
Thats cool Elmo but I bet 1) you are using a low power ultrasonic unit and 2) the directions on yours say NOT to do that. Unsafe . . .

Perhaps. It wasn't a cheap unit so I think it's fairly powerful. I understand it's ill advised to boil ISO in the microwave but I've been doing it for a long time with no problem.
 
elmomuzz,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Perhaps. It wasn't a cheap unit so I think it's fairly powerful. I understand it's ill advised to boil ISO in the microwave but I've been doing it for a long time with no problem.
I'm not even addressing the microwave aspect which is so stupid I would never try it. What I am saying is there might be a good deal of danger involved when placing flammable liquids into THE MAIN TANK of a powerful ultrasonic cleaner without proper safety protocols, and even then, if you have other options that are more safe, pursue them first. Do what you want, but don't get others into trouble . . . :peace:
 
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newVaper420

Vapor Enthusiast
Does anyone know the science behind the VapeXNail? For instance why do we have a smile on the bottom? Is it so that if heat or something builds up it can escape without breaking glass?
 
newVaper420,

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
Does anyone know the science behind the VapeXNail? For instance why do we have a smile on the bottom? Is it so that if heat or something builds up it can escape without breaking glass?

I would have thought the hole at the top was for heat and vapor to escape and the "smile" was to allow air into the tube to draw the vaped substance up and out.

~
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
I just recently gave my father my old analog Volcano to my father. It was the first vaporizer I ever purchased about 10 years ago. After about 6 months my heater failed. After it was sent in and fixed under warranty it worked for a long time with little issue. After some time the motor started to become weaker and weaker until it could not fill a bag anymore. This time it wasn't under warranty anymore and I had to pay nearly $175 to fix it. They are reliable, but even the Volcano can have issues.

It's a YS Tech blower (centrifugal fan) in the Volcano, IIRC? You could probably have read the model number and found it on eBay. They cost like US$20. I guess there's a $150 labour charge to fix a Volcano. Then again, you'd have to undo four screws and a plug lead to replace a blower. Sounds like a whole lot of work. Maybe the price is justified? </sarcasm>

Perhaps. It wasn't a cheap unit so I think it's fairly powerful. I understand it's ill advised to boil ISO in the microwave but I've been doing it for a long time with no problem.

Yeah, if you're actively watching it and you stop as soon as you see any sign of boiling activity, there's no fire risk. It's surprisingly hard to build up iso vapour to combustion point concentrations in the air. I can't be bothered doing molar calculations but you'd basically have to boil it off for quite a while just to saturate the volume of air in a microwave enough to be potentially ignitable. It's still not generally a good idea to warm iso in the microwave, though, as iso vapour is nasty stuff when it interacts with most plastics. It'll chemically "melt" them by plasticising the shit out of things. This includes electrical components on circuit boards, the plastic jackets on microchips, etc. I imagine the damage caused by this to a microwave, where the circuits are far from the iso and the chassis is metal, would probably take a very long time to show any effect, if ever, but:

I'm not even addressing the microwave aspect which is so stupid I would never try it. What I am saying is there might be a good deal of danger involved when placing flammable liquids into THE MAIN TANK of a powerful ultrasonic cleaner without proper safety protocols, and even then, if you have other options, that are more safe, pursue them first. Do what you want, but don't get others into trouble . . . :peace:

I have ruined a cheap plastic ultrasonic cleaner with iso. Nothing arcs inside the machine, so the fire issue of a 100ml layer of iso wasn't a concern, and I figured it'd last a while if I was re-bottling the iso between cleanings, but this wasn't the case. Within a few sessions the plastic lid started to stick closed, and within about twenty or so the machine failed completely, and would no longer turn on. So, on reflection, if you are absolutely set on putting iso in an ultrasonic cleaner, use a more expensive metal-tanked one with a metal lid, and remote electronics on the side, where they'll never see the vapour that leaks from the lid. Or, just use ethanol. It's not as good a solvent for resin, but it's almost as good, has a much lower vapour production than isopropanol, and most importantly, doesn't destroy or dissolve plastics. US folks might want to try Everclear or some other grain-neutral 95% spirit.

I would have thought the hole at the top was for heat and vapor to escape and the "smile" was to allow air into the tube to draw the vaped substance up and out.

Spot on, it makes the EVO act like a crucible (conduction) vape for oil, as opposed to it's normal function as a convection vape for flowers. The crucible in this case is warmed by convection instead of a directly-attached electric heater, but the final heat transfer into the load is by conduction.

The airflow through the smile creates a low pressure zone above the base of the nail when drawing that probably aids in vapourisation, too. You can see this principle for yourself by taking something like and egg cup, then putting some little scraps of paper or confetti in the bottom. Now blow a sharp puff of air across the top of the cup, not directly at any of the paper (which you shouldn't even be able to see), and watch as a burst of paper is sucked out into the low pressure zone at the top of the cup you just created with your rush of air.
 
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t-dub

Vapor Sloth
I have ruined a cheap plastic ultrasonic cleaner with iso. Nothing arcs inside the machine, so the fire issue of a 100ml layer of iso wasn't a concern, and I figured it'd last a while if I was re-bottling the iso between cleanings, but this wasn't the case. Within a few sessions the plastic lid started to stick closed, and within about twenty or so the machine failed completely, and would no longer turn on. So, on reflection, if you are absolutely set on putting iso in an ultrasonic cleaner, use a more expensive metal-tanked one with a metal lid, and remote electronic on the side, where they'll never see the vapour that leaks from the lid. Or, just use ethanol. It's not as good a solvent for resin, but it's almost as good, has a much lower vapour production than isopropanol, and most importantly, doesn't destroy or dissolve plastics. US folks might want to try Everclear or some other grain-neutral 95% spirit.
Once again we agree but you are preaching to the choir. If I must use flammables in my ultrasonic they are floated, in vitro, in a non flammable liquid in the main tank and seriously ventilated. I did start a short thread on the subject . . .

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/ultrasonic-cleaners.13789/
 

elmomuzz

That just happened...
Call it stupid if you want. I've been doing it for years without issue. It can't be worse then double boiling butane on the stove top. (I don't do this but I know many that do)
 
elmomuzz,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Call it stupid if you want. I've been doing it for years without issue. It can't be worse then double boiling butane on the stove top. (I don't do this but I know many that do)
@elmomuzz - Yes but if you are posting here, in this forum, as a member of the Beta Test Crew, I would submit you have an obligation to the less experienced readers to issue fair warning when sharing your anecdotal wisdom . . . :peace:
 
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elmomuzz

That just happened...
That's true. I should put a disclaimer in my sig. Lol

Just so I don't sound to crazy here is how I use ISO in the ultrasonic. I fill a red solo cup with about an inch of ISO. And then I lower that into the cleaner filled with water. The sonic waves transfer into the cup. I don't close the lid. This is how I clean my elbs.
 
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t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Just so I don't sound to crazy here is how I use ISO in the ultrasonic. I fill a red solo cup with about an inch of ISO. And then I lower that into the cleaner filled with water. The sonic waves transfer into the cup. I don't close the lid. This is how I clean my elbs.

Floating parts in a small container with ISO in the main tank of other fluid is totally different than what you were saying before . . . I clean my ELB's this way also some times, it works well.
 
t-dub,
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elmomuzz

That just happened...
I've filled the main vessel with ISO but it uses to much for the job and gets my cleaner dirty. The red solo cup seems to not react with the ISO and works well.

On another note I received my hydra foot 2.0 the other day. It's extremely impressive. Pictures later. :)
 
elmomuzz,

Anonymouse

Sith I care
Call it stupid if you want. I've been doing it for years without issue. It can't be worse then double boiling butane on the stove top. (I don't do this but I know many that do)

Microwaving iso to warm it isn't stupid, but that butane thing sure is. These guys use electric stoves at least, I assume? Butane is heavier than air, meaning that with a gas stove, the butane that evapourates floats downwards to the open flame underneath the double boiler setup. Okay, you'd probably have to be evapping off more than a can's worth of 'tane to actually get an ignitable mix form down near the flame, but I wouldn't want to be the guy risking it. It's way "worse" than the iso thing. Even with electric stovetops, they're still quite likely flooding their benchtop with a thin but invisible, flammable layer, at least as long as the process is going on, which is a totally unnecessary risk.
 

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the science behind the VapeXNail? For instance why do we have a smile on the bottom? Is it so that if heat or something builds up it can escape without breaking glass?
And also notice one side of the smile goes higher than the other, I bet this adds a sweet vortex effect and helps with the efficiency :2c:
 

macbill

Oh No! Mr macbill!!
Staff member
What I do for Cleaning

For my glass, I bring Simple Green almost to a boil and add it to pre-heated glass.

For my ELBs & glass stems, I put them in ISO in a zip-lock bag in a bowl. I then pour boiling water on the bag until it heats the ISO to a boil. Works great!
 
macbill,
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