Arizer Solo

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Neither would I ;)
But sometimes I like to sesh in the car parked.. I was actually planning to go to a drive-in movies with the solo ^.^

That being said I don't feel that affected medicated behind the wheel of a car. I've driven plenty of times high without issue.
It's all good!

Just taking a piss!

In the USA they will throw you in a federal prison.
Down Under it might be different?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Hi, I was wondering if it is possible to use a DC-DC Stepdown Module http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-300W-...168?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a245ae178 to use my old laptop charger that is 18v 5000mah and the car charger that is also 18v 5000mah to charge and vape?

First off, good morning and welcome to the Forum.

I'm not sure if I understand the question. 15 Volts and above, as might be used for a laptop, is too high for Solo. You want 12. The 300 Watt supply you mention will do this, but so will a lot of others for much less money and in a much smaller package. You want 12 Watts or so. !2 Volts at one Amp is the target.

Am I on track or wide of the mark?

Your not scared?
Lol I'm just young and stupid xD

Naw, he's really mellow, you know. Some of his more narrow minded passengers, OTOH........

Probably be different without all those winding turns, great vistas, and precipitous drops? Vaping while driving a sight seeing bus is definitely going to have a few nay sayers, doncha think?

OF
 

DOOM

Well-Known Member
Just received a new 14mm turbo gong and boy are them clouds massive. I'm finally getting that instant head rush I missed so much in my combusting days. IMO i'll take 3-4 massive bong rips using gong over 15 draws off the dry stem, but that's just me.

ABV is not that dark either after a session.
 

aceskace

Member
QQ - Has anyone opened up the chamber in the solo (i.e the 4 screens that hold the chamber?).

The LED lights on my solo keep moving in random patterns and it burns my herb (looks like combustion as the herb looks charred), before auto shut off.

Im guessing there are traces of herb somewhere near the chamber and the sensor which is causing it to malfunction. I have changed the battery pack and hard reset it .....same problem.

Any help will be appreciated
 

OF

Well-Known Member
QQ - Has anyone opened up the chamber in the solo (i.e the 4 screens that hold the chamber?).

The LED lights on my solo keep moving in random patterns and it burns my herb (looks like combustion as the herb looks charred), before auto shut off.

Im guessing there are traces of herb somewhere near the chamber and the sensor which is causing it to malfunction. I have changed the battery pack and hard reset it .....same problem.

Any help will be appreciated

Don't do it. It's cemented together with furnace cement. You can see the edges of it if you look closely? And you can very easily break a wire just getting a better look, and without fairly good soldering skills fatally so. Please don't ask how I come by this tidbit of information? Suffice it to say it wasn't the easy way.

Leave the screws alone.

The sensor, heater, lower plate and cup are all cemented into one piece. No chance anything 'leaked in' but also no chance of repair.

Good luck with it.

OF
 

tqbf

Well-Known Member
Sorry to disagree with you, but I think you've scored big time. You got what I consider the superior version (and I own both) at half price? What's not to like about that?

Newer is not always better. And customers are not always right, they just get to trump aces with their money. The much maligned restricted airflow wasn't an accident, it's no doubt the result of some careful testing and IMO suits the vape very well when the cloud chasers are elsewhere.

And the 'inferior' battery management system (separate 'charge only') and (nearly pure) PA mode originally used is more complex (read expensive to make) and again serves a very useful intended function. What an Engineer, not a Salesman, would design. It protects the battery when in PA mode, something the 'use while charging' version does not do. The battery is 'worked' in such cases, putting miles on it. From an Engineering standpoint this will mean shorter battery life (earlier replacement) without a doubt.

If you want longest battery life the drill becomes much more complex. You have to avoid 'use while charging' as a routine thing, instead discharging down to 'one or no lights' before charging again and watch it to pull it off before it completes they cycle (while the charge LED is still flashing) and never leave it plugged in so it's 'instantly ready to go'.

Otherwise it suffers the same fate cell phones and laptops batteries show when left plugged in (and therefore completely charged). Avoid completely charged if you want maximum life, the battery will die quietly in storage at 100% charge.....which is why they ship to you 'half charged'......the Engineers know better than to keep them fully charged. I'm sure you know a cell phone or laptop that now has abysmal battery life and 'must be plugged in' to work? I predict lots of that with new version Solos a year or so down the road. Battery replacement and more care are the only fix here.

IMO you scored. Given to otherwise identical Solo's I'd advise the older version right now. I intend to stash my new one away and go back to the old style when I've finished playing with it. Might make a good loaner......



Kind of subjective, I find the restriction better on the older version I think, but that's easily a preference thing. If you really want more airflow, the PVHES addresses this just fine IMO.

I'm not sure about other differences we don't know about of course, but strongly doubt there are any significant ones in there. We've beat it up a fair bit I think. Things like the beeps are now shorter????



I don't know how anyone can claim to know how they will play out, all we can do is make some educated guesses based on what we know. One thing that does seem to be happening is the newer versions seem to have more problems? I get it's anecdotal and all for the most part, and may be 'bad batteries', but many have noted it. While early problems seem to be pretty common these days, I think they were pretty rare with the older style?

I suggest the chances of getting to explore the warranty replacement process first hand is much better with the newer version?

It is what it is, I suggest the OP (and all other owners for that matter) enjoy the Solo they have and not obsess over the number on the bottom or what your neighbor has. The older version has an enviable and hard earned reputation for performance and value, IMO the new one will be doing very good if it can come close to matching it in the long run. Newer is not always better. How did 'New Coke' work out for you? Ignore the number on the bottom, enjoy the vape?

Regards,

OF

Yeah, I'd rather take a reliable system than a gimmic, as far as the charging while using thing is concerned. Also, as I've noticed, it really doesn't take long to charge. Charging for 3-4 minutes typically gives me enough battery for a bowl (chamber? idk, after the mflb, i thought it was so cool to say "vape a trench"). I doubt I'll ever be that desperate for a high.

I really would have preferred lesser draw resistance, though.

How exactly does the pvhes help this? Also, considering the draw resistance, how is the experience of using the old solo with a water tool?

And considering I don't own a bong or any glass, what'll be the cheapest water setup for the arizer solo?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Any idea what the issue could be? The LED's seem to jump from 3 to 7 then drop down to 1 they back to 7 etc.

This is my second solo with the exact same issue

Sadly not. Classically it's a connection issue in the sense part of the system. Often mechanical altered by heating caused expansion. Leads to those nasty 'sometimes, when hot....' ones. But here part of it is in accessible and there's little to go wrong with the exposed part (basically 4 wires now).

As you point out, it's a pretty common complaint, which is concerning of course. To me, it's 'spooky' that it seems to go up and down so fast. I tried to make this happen on one early on (as long as I had a broken lead to work with) but recalled it crashed out booting up, not 'wondering aimlessly up and down the scale'. Normally such systems get 'pulled up' (or down, depending) in the event there's an open (broken lead or connection), true 'floating inputs' don't usually happen.

As time goes on perhaps we'll come to understand this (or it'll simply quietly go away), for now it seems to be an 'infant mortality' thing? That is once the new Solo has some hours on it the risk is passed, it's the 'nearly new' ones for the most part?

I'm counting on this last part personally. I plan a serious 'shakedown curse' or two then putting it in standby (stored away with about 60% charge on the battery). I'll go back to using my 'been through the wringer' one routinely.

Did you ever use the plug and vape feature? I am trying to figure out if using that feature makes the unit start acting up.

Good thought. I don't see how, but that I think is all the more reason to ask the question? At least to me, personally. Bad practice to dismiss ideas out of hand just because your shortsighted or ignorant of some detail. Bad science.......and an open invitation to ol' Murphy.....

I hope you get enough data to answer that question, I'm sure you won't keep it a secret. I wonder if 'what mode' and 'how new was it' are also useful.

So far, nobody's reset their way out of this one, right?

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
How exactly does the pvhes help this? Also, considering the draw resistance, how is the experience of using the old solo with a water tool?

And considering I don't own a bong or any glass, what'll be the cheapest water setup for the arizer solo?

It has 3 shallow (say half the wall thickness) grooves on the outside from above the top seal to the bottom) and six notches to let more air under the lip. It lowers the restriction letting more (cold) air in which ironically slows vapor production by 'robbing the heat' in the load. The solution is more heat (higher step) to 'thicken up' the hit and we're off to the top with the WT of choice.

Lots of good, cheap, bubblers out there. This is one of mine:
http://www.pipesdaddy.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VP-0022

I used to use it with a short silicone rubber hose and the stock stem (IIRC it fit inside the stem and over the supplied adapter). You can also remove the adapter, wrap some rubber bands around the stem end and poke it in with the Solo upside down.....hard to beat for cheap.

OF
 

sundaddy

Well-Known Member
Sadly not. Classically it's a connection issue in the sense part of the system. Often mechanical altered by heating caused expansion. Leads to those nasty 'sometimes, when hot....' ones. But here part of it is in accessible and there's little to go wrong with the exposed part (basically 4 wires now).

As you point out, it's a pretty common complaint, which is concerning of course. To me, it's 'spooky' that it seems to go up and down so fast. I tried to make this happen on one early on (as long as I had a broken lead to work with) but recalled it crashed out booting up, not 'wondering aimlessly up and down the scale'. Normally such systems get 'pulled up' (or down, depending) in the event there's an open (broken lead or connection), true 'floating inputs' don't usually happen.

As time goes on perhaps we'll come to understand this (or it'll simply quietly go away), for now it seems to be an 'infant mortality' thing? That is once the new Solo has some hours on it the risk is passed, it's the 'nearly new' ones for the most part?

I'm counting on this last part personally. I plan a serious 'shakedown curse' or two then putting it in standby (stored away with about 60% charge on the battery). I'll go back to using my 'been through the wringer' one routinely.



Good thought. I don't see how, but that I think is all the more reason to ask the question? At least to me, personally. Bad practice to dismiss ideas out of hand just because your shortsighted or ignorant of some detail. Bad science.......and an open invitation to ol' Murphy.....

I hope you get enough data to answer that question, I'm sure you won't keep it a secret. I wonder if 'what mode' and 'how new was it' are also useful.

So far, nobody's reset their way out of this one, right?

OF
I will be a "control". I have a 3 month old unit and have never used it while charging, I've also never let any material touch the stainless bowl.
 

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
Hey Solo enthusiasts !
I have a question ....

Do the Solo Car Chargers (12v) actually have a 12v converter in them, or, are they just a straight connection to the car's lighter plug ?
I ask this because... I have a 12v charger with correct polarity and size, but is has no wiring, in other words, its a direct connection to the lighter plug.
The problem with this would be, I think, that the lighter plug on a car is usually ABOVE 12 volts, more like 13.5 with key off, and up to 14.8v with car running !
I do NOT want to burn out the battery or worse cause a fire/explosion !!
So please , if you have a car charger for Solo, tell me if there's circuitry inside or not.... and a pic would help too.
Thanks.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I will be a "control". I have a 3 month old unit and have never used it while charging, I've also never let any material touch the stainless bowl.

Perhaps you should include never changing your socks? Works in baseball.......keep your friends from copping hits on your Solo, or at least cutting way back, I bet?

Hey Solo enthusiasts !
I have a question ....

Do the Solo Car Chargers (12v) actually have a 12v converter in them, or, are they just a straight connection to the car's lighter plug ?
I ask this because... I have a 12v charger with correct polarity and size, but is has no wiring, in other words, its a direct connection to the lighter plug.
The problem with this would be, I think, that the lighter plug on a car is usually ABOVE 12 volts, more like 13.5 with key off, and up to 14.8v with car running !
I do NOT want to burn out the battery or worse cause a fire/explosion !!
So please , if you have a car charger for Solo, tell me if there's circuitry inside or not.... and a pic would help too.
Thanks.

Just a fuse inside. The old version of Solo charges from 10.1 to 15 Volts. The new one to even lower voltages it seems. But my initial testing says you want just under 9 Volts (or more) if you want a full charge. 8.75 won't cut it.

Answer your question?

OF
 

Yoduh

Well-Known Member
I actually just emailed Randy at PIU about this deal and he honored the price I told him I found the Solo for ($135 on Ebay) without requiring me to email him the advertisement. He included the free grinder and shipping every Solo comes with, and threw in some screens too. Very cool, super fast email replies. So my Solo is on the way, I'm looking forward to getting my little hands on this bad boy and vaping it up.

I just emailed today. I found two low prices. Im keeping my fingers crossed so I can order today :) . Will the stock stems fit into my female for my bubbler? I am getting the wood stem with it but I love the all glass... and the pvhe gong is a literal "pipe dream" for me atm.... lol. Thanks guys.
 

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
The old version of Solo charges from 10.1 to 15 Volts. The new one to even lower voltages it seems. But my initial testing says you want just under 9 Volts (or more) if you want a full charge. 8.75 won't cut it.



OF
Since we are sort of on the subject:
I have been using my 8.7Volt 5.65 Amp PA(old stock PS2 power supply) with newer model Solo..
If the Solo is charged to 7 just before the green light stoops flashing with the original power supply, it then has been possible to run in PA mode with the PS2 power supply with few problems. I set the heat as soon as it initializes.
If the 12volt Solo charger is used, it immediately goes into charge mode.
The 8.7 Volt PA, however will allow you to set the heat cycle without the green charge light starting. This does not work unless the Solo is charged up almost to max.
As long as that heat cycle is "kept at the top of the stack-software speaking", it will usually stay in charge mode. To make sure. I keep hitting it often to keep it in charge mode.I had the green charge light start for the charge and heat mode only a couple of times with many hours of use. Lower levels of charge resulted in the charge light coming on more often. If this happened, I would turn it off, unplug-plug it in and reset the heat level.
Seems like the Solo is somewhat selective about applying the charge cycle.
When starting on charge level 7, it seemed to stay there if the PA was used.
I don't know if this has to do more with the particular configuration on the power supply or perhaps there have been several different batch changes on the newer models.

This is confusing because I have an email direct from Arizer that says this is not possible.

I also found that the 8.7 Volt PA was erratic on the cut-off point for charging.
It would stop at level 5 or 6, but did reach 7 one time. This seems to confirm OF's observation as well.
 
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Vicki

Herbal Alchemist
My Solo with my PWT and WonG from @Ed's TnT

2naivfd.jpg


Wow, I'm getting bigger clouds using my new WonG with my PWT! The taste from the stem is incredible too! :nod:
 
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